ULTIMATE MADAGASCAR BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY
Madagascar: Day 1 Our Classic Madagascar birding tour begins in the evening at our hotel near Antananarivo airport, where we will stay overnight. (An airport transfer will be provided.)
Madagascar: Day 2 Antananarivo is a strange mixture of traditional Malagasy, French Colonial and modern architecture. Traditional Malagasy architecture clearly has many Asian roots and the buildings look much closer to those one would see in Nepal than anything found on the African mainland, reflecting the Asiatic origins of most of the Malagasy themselves.
From the capital, we will head southwards to Ranomafana for a three nights stay.
As we travel across the interior plateau, the heartland of Madagascar, we will have a close-up of the Malagasy way of life. The countryside is a mosaic of tiny terraced rice paddies in the valley bottoms, grassy slopes, small villages of ochre-brown, thatched-roofed houses and isolated mountains of worn grey granite. Lean-limbed Malagasy farmers guide their zebu-drawn ploughs through the paddies whilst groups of smiling women carry produce to market. Life is hard in the countryside in Madagascar but the ever-friendly Malagasy have an astonishing capacity for happiness in spite of their difficulties.
The extensive rice paddies of the interior are frequented by Western Cattle and Great Egrets, Squacco Heron and Red-billed Teal, whilst Yellow-billed Kite, Madagascar Buzzard, Malagasy Kestrel, Malagasy Black Swift, Madagascar Lark, Mascarene Martin, Madagascar Stonechat, Madagascar Cisticola, Red Fody, Pied Crow and the introduced Common Myna are all typical roadside birds. We may also encounter Hamerkop along the rivers and perhaps a flock of Alpine Swifts wheeling around the rugged hillsides. As we approach the eastern highlands we will stop at some areas of marshland where Madagascar Snipe can sometimes be found. The road eventually winds through forested hills, past some scenic cascades and waterfalls, before we see the little spa town of Ranomafana appear below us.
Madagascar: Days 3-4 Ranomafana is situated on the edge of the eastern escarpment and came to the attention of the world when a new species, the Golden Bamboo Lemur, was discovered here in 1985. Now a national park, this superb area is rich in lemurs. Several species have been studied here for many years, resulting in the animals becoming oblivious to the presence of humans and giving us the privileged opportunity of watching them, unafraid, at close range. We have a good chance of encountering Golden Bamboo Lemur (still only known from two localities), Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemur, Red-fronted Lemur, Red-bellied Lemur, Milne-Edwards’s Sifaka and perhaps a roosting Eastern Woolly Lemur (or Eastern Avahi). One evening, as dusk falls, we shall wait for diminutive Red Mouse-lemurs to appear, attracted to a bait of bananas. The experience of watching these tiny primates at close range, manipulating items with their perfect miniature hands, is certainly very special. Other mammals we may encounter at Ranomafana include Eastern Red Forest Rat and perhaps Ring-tailed Mongoose and Fanaloka (or Striped Civet).
Not surprisingly, Ranomafana also offers rich pickings for the birdwatcher and, indeed, the area is now acknowledged to be one of the best accessible sites for seeing Madagascar’s rainforest endemics. As the wreaths of early morning mist gradually dissipate the forest comes alive: jeries and sunbirds sing from the canopy, tetrakas and newtonias chatter from the undergrowth and resonant hoots announce the presence of a ground roller. At the roadside, Rand’s Warblers and Common, Green and Stripe-throated Jeries give their confusingly similar songs from prominent exposed perches, as does the less numerous Cryptic Warbler, and we will scan similar locations for Madagascar Starling and the striking Madagascar Blue Pigeon. Overhead, Cuckoo-Rollers call wildly as they give their dramatic aerial displays and the monotonous call of the Madagascar Cuckoo forms an almost constant backdrop to our birding.
Once on the trails, however, forest birdwatching requires time and patience, but the rewards can be rich. We will be making a particular effort to find a selection of species that we can only reasonably hope to see at Ranomafana. One of these is Brown Mesite, a secretive species of the forest floor, and another is the fearsome Henst’s Goshawk, a highly vocal raptor that we will hope to see sitting in the canopy, glowering at us from under its heavy brows. Madagascar Yellowbrow (or Yellow-browed Oxylabes) favours the thickest undergrowth but, like many of Madagascar’s ‘skulkers’, can sometimes be watched at unbelievably close range. The chunky Pollen’s Vanga and Grey-crowned Tetraka (formerly Grey-crowned Greenbul) are two other specialities, and at higher altitudes, we will search for Brown Emutail, an ace skulker that we may see creeping, mouse-like, at our feet.
We used to see the iridescent Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity regularly at Ranomafana but the original location has been destroyed and no new regular site has been located.
Perhaps the most mysterious of all Madagascar’s birds are the ground rollers. The iridescent Pitta-like Ground Roller is, in fact, quite common here and we also have a good chance of finding a furtive Rufous-headed Ground Roller, perhaps watching its head bobbing and throat feathers bristling as it calls from a low perch deep in the shade of the forest undergrowth.
Other species that we may well find include Frances’s Sparrowhawk, Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Flufftail (which can sometimes be enticed to within a few feet), Madagascar Turtle Dove, Lesser Vasa Parrot, Red-fronted Coua, the stunning, turaco-like Blue Coua, Malagasy Coucal, African Palm Swift, Malagasy Kingfisher, the curious Velvet Asity and Common Sunbird-Asity (members of a family now thought to be related to the broadbills), Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar (or Ashy) Cuckooshrike, Spectacled Tetraka (formerly Spectacled Greenbul), the aptly-named Long-billed Bernieria (formerly Long-billed Greenbul), Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Forest Rock Thrush (with its beautiful yodelling song), Malagasy Brush Warbler, Dark and Common Newtonias, Wedge-tailed Jery, Ward’s Flycatcher (now thought to be a vanga), Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher, White-throated Oxylabes, Red-tailed, Chabert, Tylas and Hook-billed Vangas, the unbelievably blue-hued Blue Vanga, Crossley’s Vanga (formerly Crossley’s Babbler), Malagasy White-eye, Malagasy Green (or Long-billed Green) and Souimanga Sunbirds, Nelicourvi Weaver, Forest Fody and Crested Drongo. Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk is an uncommon possibility.
In a nearby area of damp heathland, we will search in particular for the skulking Grey Emutail, as well as Brown-throated Martin, Madagascar Swamp Warbler, and Madagascar Mannikin. We will also have the chance to find Madagascar Snipe and, if we are lucky, we will come across Meller’s Duck, now probably one of Madagascar’s rarest endemics.
Madagascar: Day 5 After some final birding in the Ranomafana region we will make the scenic journey southwestwards to Isalo in the Ranohira region for an overnight stay.
Leaving the forests of the escarpment behind, the densely-populated, well-watered plateau country gradually gives way to dry grasslands punctuated by stark, steep-sided mountains. Large herds of zebu, the characteristic Malagasy cattle, are driven to water by herders whose faces betray their African origins, for now we are entering Madagascar’s deep and once lawless south.
Time permitting, we will make a stop along the way at the small Anja reserve, where we can admire some tame Ring-tailed Lemurs.
Eventually, we will cross the lonely Horombe Plateau This remote area is favoured by the uncommon Madagascar Partridge. We used to encounter the rare and attractive Malagasy Harrier quartering the arid upland grasslands, or even a Marsh Owl, but both seem to have vanished owing to the drainage of wet grasslands.
Once at the dramatically beautiful Isalo Massif, an area of tangled, contorted limestone pinnacles surrounded by grasslands. we will look for the local form of the Forest Rock Thrush which, although a bird of the rocky slopes, has taken to singing from the roof of our hotel. This form is sometimes split as Benson’s Rock Thrush.
Madagascar: Day 6 From Isalo we travel southwestwards to Tulear (or Toliara) for an overnight stay.
Leaving early this morning, we will stop en route at Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, which protects a relict of a once much more extensive forest, where we should find the extremely localized Appert’s Tetraka (formerly known as Appert’s Greenbul). (As with the other ‘greenbuls’ of Madagascar, this species is now placed in the recently recognized Malagasy warbler family.) Other species that we may well find in the dry deciduous forests at Zombitse-Vohibasia include the superb Giant Coua, Coquerel’s Coua, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Hoopoe (with its peculiar purring call), Helmeted Guineafowl and Rufous Vanga (with its repertoire of strange vocalizations). Often the local guide knows where to find a roosting Torotoroka Scops and White-browed Owls. This is another place where we have a chance to encounter the uncommon Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk.
The forest also holds several species of lemurs, and we should have our first encounters here with the charismatic Verreaux’s Sifaka and may even find a Zombitse Sportive Lemur at its daytime roost.
Next, we will stop in an arid area to look for Madagascar Sandgrouse, which our local guides will hopefully have ‘staked out’ for us.
Continuing southwards, the first baobabs appear in a landscape otherwise denuded of trees, and at length the open country gives way to dense arid scrub as we near the coast. This scrubland lies on a ridge of ancient coral, raised from the sea bed by the Earth’s inexorable movements. Although uninviting at first glance, this coral-rag habitat holds two highly restricted specialities. Here we will search for the beautiful Red-shouldered Vanga, described as recently as 1997, Verreaux’s Coua (perhaps seeing this elegant coua sitting on a bush top, giving its not-so-elegant croaking call) and Lafresnaye’s Vanga (which, with its massive and swollen bill, is very much the local counterpart of Pollen’s and Van Dam’s Vangas).
Other species in this area include Madagascar Buttonquail, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Green Pigeon, Red-capped Coua (the local form is sometimes split as Green-capped Coua), Grey-headed Lovebird and Olive (or Madagascar) Bee-eater.
Madagascar: Day 7 A highlight of our stay at Tulear will be an excursion by boat to the small island of Nosy Ve. This lies just a short distance offshore and holds good numbers of breeding Red-tailed Tropicbirds. We should have superb views of this elegant seabird, both in flight and as they sit on their nests under the low shrubs, where they are remarkably tame and can be quite closely approached without causing disturbance. We will also be on the lookout for the strange burrow-nesting Crab-plover, a species that regularly occurs on this island and one that represents a monotypic bird family.
After leaving Nosy Ve, we will cross to the small fishing village of Anakao on the mainland, where the localized Littoral Rock Thrush is common (and can even be seen whilst sipping cold drinks at a beach-side bar!), before returning to Tulear.
We will also explore the mudflats, beaches and the saline lagoons that lie amidst the flat sandy land near the coast. Among the numerous Kittlitz’s Plovers, we should find a few Madagascar Plovers. These pools also attract a variety of other waders, and together with the adjacent mudflats and sandy beaches should produce Black-winged Stilt, Common Ringed, White-fronted, Greater Sand and Grey (or Black-bellied) Plovers, Eurasian Whimbrel, Common Greenshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Terek, Common and Curlew Sandpipers, and Sanderling. The coastal flats sometimes hold large numbers of Common Terns, as well as Lesser and Greater Crested Terns, Little Terns and a few Caspian Terns. Other birds we should encounter along the coast are the statuesque endemic Humblot’s Heron, Dimorphic Egret (here they are mostly of the dark morph, in contrast to inland areas), Striated Heron and Blue-billed (or Hottentot) Teal. The concentration of birds in this region is attractive to raptors, and we may come across a Peregrine Falcon of the small, dark local form.
During the afternoon we will reach Ifaty, situated on the coast to the north of Tulear, where we will stay for two nights. In the late afternoon, we will begin our exploration of the Ifaty area.
Madagascar: Day 8 Our hotel is situated on the beach and is backed by stands of coastal scrub which hold some interesting birds; notably the large, pale, Subdesert Brush Warbler, with its mechanical, clock-winding call, the yellow-headed Sakalava Weaver and Madagascar Nightjar, which can be watched floating over the bushes, ghost-like, at dusk (and they also often call loudly outside the rooms at night).
Whilst at Ifaty, however, we will be concentrating on the strange and wonderful spiny Didierea forest, the habitat that holds most of the region’s specialities and which lies just a short distance from the coast. Walking along the sandy trails through the spiny forest is a fantastic experience. Tall, many-branched Didiereas with a potent armour of spines give the impression of being witches’ broomsticks planted in the ground. Amongst the many different kinds of Didiereas are strange euphorbias and many squat, bloated baobabs. The whole feel of this bizarre forest, especially as dusk approaches, is of something dreamed up by Tolkien.
The most sought-after birds of the spiny forest are undoubtedly the strange Subdesert Mesite and the attractive Long-tailed Ground Roller. We may encounter a small party of mesites creeping furtively through the undergrowth and perhaps find a pair of ground rollers attending their nesting burrow at the base of a tall Didierea.
Other specialities of this habitat are Thamnornis, with its loud rattling song, and the unassuming Archbold’s Newtonia. We should also see small groups of Sickle-billed Vangas, one of the most striking members of the family, flying unerringly through the maze of spines to perch in the Didiereas as they give their loud, raucous calls. Couas are also a feature of the spiny forest and we should see Crested Couas moving clumsily through the trees whilst Running Couas walk sedately amongst the tangled undergrowth, only to leap into a low tree or bush to give their loud, whistling advertising calls. (The local form of the Crested is sometimes split as Rufous-vented Coua.) We are also likely to come across Greater Vasa Parrot and Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, and we will keep a special lookout for the increasingly rare Banded Kestrel.
Madagascar: Day 9 After some final birding in the Tulear (or Toliara) region we will take a flight from Tulear to Antananarivo. If we are here in November, we might spot a hunting Sooty Falcon or two at the airport.
From Antananarivo, we will drive eastwards to Andasibe (Perinet) for a five nights stay. This afternoon we will begin our exploration of the area.
Madagascar: Days 10-13 The Andasibe-Mantadia National Park at Andasibe (formerly known as Perinet) protects some of the richest rainforest in Madagascar. The park shares many species with Ranomafana, but also hold several that are difficult or impossible to find there, and we will be concentrating on these.
Four species of ground roller occur in the area, and we will try in particular to find the superb Scaly Ground Roller, arguably the best-looking ground roller of all, and the sedate and strictly arboreal Short-legged Ground Roller. Wandering flocks of vangas regularly hold the curious Nuthatch Vanga, a localized species once considered a true nuthatch but in reality a remarkable example of convergent evolution.
At dusk, we will listen for the piping whistle of Rainforest Scops Owl, and we may find one roosting in the dark recesses of a pandanus palm. With a bit of luck, we will also see Madagascar (Long-eared) Owl after either hearing the bark of the adult in flight or the grating hiss of a fledged but still dependent youngster. A very special nightbird that we hope to find is Collared Nightjar, surely one of the most strikingly beautiful of all nightjars. Its voice is still poorly known, but we may encounter one at dusk, sallying out from the treetops for food or, even better, we may find a roosting bird and admire its fantastic camouflage at close range.
Other notable species we should see at Andasibe-Mantadia are Madagascar Grebe, the impressive Madagascar (Crested) Ibis (ambling rather incongruously along the broad trails through the forest or sitting on a large and untidy nest), White-throated Rail and Red-fronted Coua, and if we are in luck we will come across the uncommon Madagascar Sparrowhawk and the handsome Red-breasted Coua.
The widespread Broad-billed Roller is quite common while areas of marshland hold Madagascar Rail and Madagascar Snipe.
Andasibe-Mantadia provides a secure refuge for a wealth of wildlife and is famous as the haunt of the superb Indri, the largest of all the surviving lemurs. The ear-splitting, wailing cries of the Indri echo through the green galleries of the forest, and as one approaches the trees in which these great black and white creatures are sitting the volume of noise becomes almost deafening. In addition to the famous Indri, we may also see the beautiful Diademed Sifaka, Common Brown Lemur and, at night, Greater and perhaps Crossley’s Dwarf Lemurs. We may be fortunate enough to come across Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur, one of the most handsome of all the lemurs.
Providing there is an active nest at the time of our visit, we will also visit the Antavolobe Reserve. The star avian attraction here is, without doubt, the improbable and spectacular Helmet Vanga with its stunning combination of black and tan topped off with a huge, almost fluorescent, turquoise-blue bill. There needs to be a known nest for us to have a fairly good chance of seeing this striking bird that often associates with mixed flocks of vangas. We also have a slim chance of coming across Bernier’s Vanga, a species confined to the rainforests of northeastern Madagascar, perhaps coming across a jet-black male hacking away at an epiphyte or a tiger-striped female stripping bark from a high bough. (Note: These are two birds that are much easier on our Madagascar with a Difference itinerary in the Masoala Peninsula.)
Madagascar: Day 14 After some final birding and lemur-watching in the Andasibe area we will return to Antananarivo for an overnight stay.
Providing time permits, we will visit Lac Alarobia on the outskirts of the city. Large numbers of waterbirds gather here and a large heronry includes Malagasy Pond, Squacco and Black Herons and Western Cattle and Dimorphic Egrets, all displaying their breeding finery. Some Meller’s Ducks are usually present and the White-throated Rails and Malagasy (or Madagascar Malachite) Kingfishers here are remarkably tame.
Madagascar: Day 15 Today we will drive to Beamilaka, situated close to Ankarafantsika National Park, for a three nights stay.
Driving to Beamilaka, although a long day, has become ever more important on our Madagascar tours as Malagasy Harrier and Madagascar Pratincole have become hard or even impossible to see in the areas we used to see them! The drive also provides a second chance for the tricky Madagascar Partridge.
Madagascar: Day 16 Ankarafantsika National Park protects an extensive area of plateau country. Most of the park is cloaked in well-developed dry tropical woodland, but along the watercourses, there are stands of slightly moister and richer forest.
We will, of course, be concentrating on the area’s specialities during our visit. In the plateau forest, we will search for the highly localized Van Dam’s Vanga, found at only two sites in the northwest of the island, and for White-breasted Mesite, similarly confined to just a handful of localities. We have a very good chance of finding the vangas, our attention attracted by their whistled calls from the tree-tops, and of coming across a group of mesites walking sedately through the sparse undergrowth and stopping occasionally to give their shrill duetted calls.
In the subtly moister woodlands, we should come across the beautiful Schlegel’s Asity, here at the edge of its range. Another speciality is the majestic but critically endangered Madagascar Fish Eagle, one of the world’s rarest raptors with a total population estimated at just 100 pairs, which we should find at Lac Ravelobe near the forest station. In addition to its specialities, Ampijoroa holds a wide variety of other birds, notably including Red-capped and Coquerel’s Couas, Torotoroka Scops Owl and Rufous Vanga. We also have another slim chance for Banded Kestrel.
This is also an excellent site for lemurs: the handsome Coquerel’s Sifaka is common here and we may also find Common Brown Lemur and the very localized Mongoose Lemur, whilst a night walk could produce Lesser Dwarf Lemur, Grey Mouse Lemur and perhaps Western Woolly Lemur, Milne-Edwards’s Sportive Lemur or the recently discovered Golden-brown Mouse-lemur.
By late morning we must be on our way further north to Antsohihy for an overnight stay.
Madagascar: Days 17-20 From Antsohihy we will drive into the remote Bemanevika area, the place where the Madagascar Pochard was rediscovered, for a three nights stay at the edge of a nice area of forest and with nearby wetlands. It is quite an adventure to reach the site as the roads in the latter part of the journey are pretty rough.
We will make a few stops at wetlands on the way where we are likely to find a few new species such as Blue-billed (or Hottentot) Teal, the declining Malagasy Harrier and, with luck, Baillon’s Crake.
The amazing rediscovery of the thought-to-be-extinct Madagascar Pochard in the Bemanevika area has to be one of the most exciting ornithological moments of recent times. A quirk of nature left the pochard’s remote lake with no apparent commercial value (there are no fish and it is too steep for rice growing). However, since Birdquest helped to establish the local conservation body, the lake now has value as an ecotourism resource and hopefully will be kept pristine. We should have little difficulty seeing this critically endangered species, and at this time of year, they may well have broods of small young. The population at Bemanevika has now increased to 50 or more and they have even started to recolonise old haunts.
Whilst looking for the pochard, we should also find the increasingly rare Meller’s Duck and Madagascar Grebe, as well as Red-billed Teal and Red-knobbed Coot.
The surrounding forest also holds some very special endemic species, foremost of which is the amazing Red Owl, which can often be seen at its daytime roost. (If not, we will go out at night to find one.) The rather elusive Madagascar Owl occurs in the same area and there is even a real chance for the rare Madagascar Serpent Eagle!
Other birds of particular note present in the forest and adjacent open areas include Malagasy Harrier, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, the splendid Red-fronted Coua, the arboreal Blue Coua, the hyper-active Common Sunbird-Asity, the trunk-loving Grey-crowned Tetraka, Tylas Vanga (which may actually be an oriole!), Rand’s Warbler and Stripe-throated Jery (the two often singing from adjacent song-posts!), Green Jery, Forest Rock Thrush, Madagascar Starling and the declining Forest Fody.
Other species found in the area include Frances’s Sparrowhawk, Madagascar Cuckoo, Rainforest Scops Owl, Alpine and Malagasy Black Swifts, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Pitta-like Ground Roller, Cuckoo-roller, Broad-billed Roller, Mascarene and Brown-throated Martins, Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Spectacled Tetraka, Red-tailed, Hook-billed, White-headed, Blue and Crossley’s Vangas, Madagascar Stonechat, White-throated Oxylabes, Grey Emutail, Malagasy Brush Warbler, Dark Newtonia, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar White-eye and Nelicourvi Weaver.
Whilst travelling to and from the lake we may well see Madagascar Buttonquail and perhaps even the scarce Madagascar Partridge, whilst a foray into one of the marshes at Bemanevika could well yield views of the furtive Madagascar Flufftail and Madagascar Rail, as well as Madagascar Snipe. With persistence and a bit of luck, we will come across the rare Slender-billed Flufftail.
After final birding on Day 20 we will return to Antsohihy for an overnight stay.
Madagascar: Day 21 After returning to Beamilaka, where we will spend the night, we will have another session at and around Ankarafantsika National Park.
Madagascar: Day 22 Not far from Ankarafantsika is Lake Amboromalandy, a large impounded reservoir, and some other small wetlands and flooded fields. Black Herons can often be seen performing their famed ‘umbrella’ fishing dance and there are also smaller numbers of Malagasy (or Madagascar) Pond Herons. Here we will be searching for Madagascar Jacana (a species that is surprisingly localized) and, with luck, African Pygmy Goose, White-backed Duck and Allen’s Gallinule.
Other waterbirds that we may come across at these wetlands include Little Grebe, Reed (or Long-tailed) Cormorant, African Darter, Grey and Purple Herons, Black-crowned Night Heron, Glossy Ibis, White-faced Whistling Duck, Knob-billed Duck, Common Moorhen, Three-banded Plover (the local form is a potential split), Whiskered Tern and, occasionally, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stork and Greater Painted-snipe.
Eventually, we will reach the city of Majunga (or Mahajanga) where we will spend the night.
From here we travel by boat into the broad estuary of the Betsiboka River, where we will search for two of Madagascar’s most endangered species, the endemic Bernier’s (or Madagascar) Teal and Malagasy Sacred (or Madagascar White) Ibis. We may well find scattered pairs and small flocks of Bernier’s Teals feeding on exposed mud banks, a habitat shared with the ibises. We will also have another chance for Humblot’s Heron, as well as a variety of shorebirds and terns.
Madagascar: Day 23 Today we will return by air from Majunga to Antananarivo, where our Ultimate Madagascar birding tour ends.
We can arrange hotel accommodation and airport transfers on request.
SOUTHEAST MADAGASCAR EXTENSION
Madagascar (Southeast): Day 1 The extension begins in the evening at our hotel near Antananarivo airport, where we will stay overnight. (An airport transfer will be provided.)
Madagascar (Southeast): Day 2 This morning we will take a flight to Fort Dauphin (or Tolanaro), situated at the southeastern corner of Madagascar, for an overnight stay. Here we can look for Madagascar Gull (sometimes split from Cape, which in turn is sometimes split from Kelp) and also Humpback Whales. At this time of year, there are both adults and calves present and we have a reasonable chance of seeing these magnificent animals breaching spectacularly off the coast.
Madagascar (Southeast): Day 3 We will make an early start in order to reach Andohahela National Park in good time. Lying at the extreme southern tip of the eastern escarpment, the humid forests of the mountain slopes form a startling contrast with the arid spiny forest of the coastal plains. Here we will search for the enigmatic Red-tailed Newtonia, a species known for many years from just one specimen (and whose very existence had even been doubted) until it was rediscovered here. We will also be looking out for the attractive but scarce Collared Brown Lemur. Afterwards, we will drive to Berenty for a two nights stay.
Madagascar (Southeast): Day 4 The Berenty reserve, set aside by the de Heaulme family who own the surrounding sisal estate, protects a small but rich area of gallery forest on the banks of the wide Mandare River, an oasis amidst the semi-desert. Huge kily (tamarind) trees form a green canopy against the burning sun, leaving the trails below cool and shady. Here we shall see lemurs at really close quarters – unmolested for more than half a century, they have lost their fear of man. Gleaming white Verreaux’s Sifakas hurl themselves from one tree to another above our heads, peer curiously at us from the vegetation or waltz bipedally away across the trails. Ring-tailed Lemurs, like strange cats, stroll right up to us, their long, banded tails raised aloft like flags. Red-fronted Lemurs are also common and tame (but are introduced here) and we should also see White-footed Sportive Lemur which, although nocturnal, can often be found at its daytime roosts. A night-time excursion is usually essential, however, to see the tiny Reddish-grey (or Grey-brown) and Grey Mouse Lemurs.
Seeing lemurs like this is unforgettable and, at first, it will be hard to drag ourselves away to look for birds. Nevertheless, we ought to give them some attention too, for there are some notable specialities. Giant Couas have, like the lemurs, become completely unafraid of man at Berenty, and we should enjoy some superb looks at these stately birds walking around on the forest floor. Both White-browed Owl and Torotoroka Scops Owl are common and very vocal at night. We should be able to find both species roosting during the day, giving us the chance to really admire the intricacies of their beautifully cryptic plumage. This is also the best place on the tour for the elusive Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk, a species that has alarmingly big ‘bug’ eyes, well-suited to its near-crepuscular lifestyle, although even at Berenty it is not guaranteed.
We also have further opportunities at Berenty to come across Madagascar Sparrowhawk, a seldom-seen species that is hard to separate from the much commoner Frances’s Sparrowhawk and the rare Banded Kestrel. Along the river, we will have another chance to find Madagascar Sandgrouse coming to drink. The sanctuary provided by Berenty also attracts large numbers of nesting Western Cattle Egrets and there is a substantial roost of Madagascar Flying Foxes in the reserve. At dusk, these huge bats decamp in large parties in search of fruit.
Madagascar (Southeast): Day 5 Today we will return to Fort Dauphin (or Tolanaro) and take a flight to Antananarivo, where we meet up with those arriving for the main tour.
SAKALAVA RAIL EXTENSION
Sakalava Rail: Day 1 We will overnight at Majunga.
Sakalava Rail: Day 2 This morning we will take the ferry across the broad mouth of the Betsiboka River to Katsepy. Once at Katsepy, we will board our four-wheel-drive vehicles and make our way to Lac Kinkony. This is a truly remote area that can only be reached with four-wheel-drive vehicles and then a boat trip. It is also one of the most intact wetlands in western Madagascar and holds a number of rare and threatened species. We will spend two nights at a comfortable camp.
En route to Kinkony, we will make a small detour to Katsepy lighthouse to see the delightful, range-restricted Crowned Sifaka.
Widespread species may well encounter include African Openbill.
Sakalava Rail: Day 3 In 2002 the poorly known Sakalava Rail was discovered in the remote wetlands around Lac Kinkony, south of Majunga, confirming that the species was still extant. This poorly-known species was only reliably recorded five times in the 20th century, and until very recently, had barely been seen by a western ornithologist. Today, we will explore the tall Phragmites-choked wetlands by pirogues (dug-out canoes), and as we pick our way through the numerous small channels, surrounded by tall reeds, we should soon find the furtive Sakalava Rail.
We are also likely to encounter such interesting birds as the Madagascar subspecies of the Little Bittern, the rare Malagasy Sacred Ibis and African Swamphen. We will also have more chances for Humblot’s Heron and Allen’s Gallinule.
Lemurs found in the area include the attractive Decken’s Sifaka, Grey Mouse Lemur and Mongoose Lemur.
Sakalava Rail: Day 4 Today we will make our way back to Majunga and catch an evening flight to Antananarivo where the extension ends.
We can arrange hotel accommodation and airport transfers on request.