The Ultimate In Birding Tours

Asia

TIGERS & BIRDS OF NORTHERN INDIA – From the plains to the Himalayas

Saturday 6th March – Monday 22nd March 2021

Leaders: Hannu Jännes and local bird guides

17 Days Group Size Limit 7
Sunday 6th March – Tuesday 22nd March 2022

Leader: Birdquest leader to be announced and local bird guides

17 Days Group Size Limit 7

TIGERS & BIRDS OF NORTHERN INDIA: OVERVIEW

Birdquest’s Tigers & Birds of Northern India birding tours are classic Indian birding and wildlife tours that features a large bird list, including such special birds as Cheer Pheasant, Pallas’s Fish Eagle, Indian Skimmer, Painted Spurfowl, Painted Sandgrouse, Mottled Wood Owl, some splendid mammals, including the wonderful Tigers of Ranthambhore, great scenery and the incomparable Taj Mahal. Our Northern India tour samples all the major habitats of northwestern India, from the Himalayas at Naini Tal south through the foothills and the piedmont at Jim Corbett National Park to the Chambal River and famous Bharatpur in the Gangetic plains and the dry thorn-forest of Ranthambhore in Rajasthan. It is the perfect trip for any birder who yearns to see the magnificent Tiger in the wild, visiting at the prime time of year for sightings, in addition to many of India’s most charismatic birds.

Northern India offers some of the finest birding (and mammal-watching) in the world amidst some superb scenery. Not only is the local avifauna extremely rich, but the birding here is unsurpassed in Asia terms of the sheer number of rather tame and approachable birds that one encounters. The interest for birdwatchers is enhanced still further during the winter months by the large number of avian visitors that arrive in this part of India from northern Asia.

This classic journey, which is distilled from decades of personal experience in India, will take you through a cross-section of the environments of Northern India from the fertile plains of the Ganges, that most Indian of all the country’s regions, to the arid landscapes of Rajasthan and finally to the Himalayas, the ornithological treasure house of the subcontinent. The hills and plains of Northern Indian and the adjacent Himalayas are generally considered to offer some of the best birding in the Oriental region, offering both a remarkable number of species and much easier and more diverse birding than more forest-orientated tours in tropical Asia. As well as providing some wonderful birding and the opportunity to see some exciting mammals, our travels will show us something of the ‘real’ India that, in some places, is still coming to terms with the modern world, while in others it has embraced it with enthusiasm.

There is something indefinable about India which makes many westerners who have been there long to return. Perhaps it is the vastness of the country and its timeless quality, perhaps it is the strange mixture of peoples and vibrant, colourful, larger-than-life cultures which strikes a hidden chord in us, for whom India seems so alien and yet so fascinating, or perhaps it is the way that man and nature are so closely linked, co-existing in a way that seems intrinsically impossible. Here one sees tiny ponds on the edge of a crowded village thronged with herons and other waterbirds, all unmolested and unconcerned by the stream of people coming to wash clothes or water their animals. In any event, India has always been a favourite country of ours – constantly appearing in reminiscences about birds and travel.

It is not often that a Birdquest tour gives equal billing to a mammal, but one has to make an exception for the magnificent Tiger, surely one of the most evocative creatures that still shares our crowded planet with us (but for how much longer?).

To see Tigers well and repeatedly it is necessary to spend plenty of time and also to visit the very best places at the very best season for Tiger sightings. By far the best time of year is from late February to late May, when the variety of water sources has diminished and the Tigers are concentrated close to the remaining water. This results in an average number of sightings per visitor, over any given period, up to two to three times as high as during the Indian winter period.

There is no finer and more reliable Tiger reserve than Ranthambhore National Park in Rajasthan. This huge park, situated in the rocky Aravalli and Vindhya ranges of north-central India, protects a vast tract of largely deciduous forest which still holds many Tigers. For many years Ranthambhore has been recognized by wildlife enthusiasts and photographers as one of the very best places to go if one wants close and regular encounters with Tigers. Here you can expect, not just hope, to get close to these extraordinary and beautiful predators! Staring into the huge, cold eyes of a Tiger just a short distance away is an awesome experience, and Ranthambhore is where it can happen.

We start our Northern India birding tour at Delhi, where we will explore nearby Sultanpur Jheel, home to Indian Courser, Sind Sparrow and Brooks’s Leaf Warbler, as well as many waterbirds including the impressive Black-necked Stork.

From Delhi, we will travel across the densely populated Gangetic Plain to the base of the Himalayas and the forests and grasslands of Jim Corbett National Park, the richest place for birds and mammals in northern India. The park is a haunt of such special birds as Pallas’s and Lesser Fish Eagles, Slaty-headed Parakeet, Tawny Fish Owl, Hodgson’s Bushchat, the restricted-range Nepal Cupwing and Black-chinned Babbler amongst others, not to mention a wide selection of mammals including Asian Elephant and even the magnificent Tiger.

Then, after checking for Ibisbills along one of the rivers, we will wind our way up into the beautiful mid-Himalayas to explore the surroundings of the hill station of Naini Tal, home to such Western Himalayan specialities as Cheer Pheasant, Scaly-bellied, Himalayan and Brown-fronted Woodpeckers, Blue-capped Redstart, Streaked Laughingthrush, Spot-winged and Himalayan Black-lored Tits, Black-headed Jay, Pink-browed Rosefinch and many other interesting birds, including Rufous-bellied Woodpecker and White-tailed Rubythroat.

From the Himalayas, we will travel southwards to the Agra region of Uttar Pradesh to explore the wonderful National Chambal Sanctuary, a little-known reserve on the Chambal River that is the haunt of Gangetic River Dolphins, two species of crocodile (including the long-snouted Gharial), Indian Skimmers, Red-naped Ibises, Great Thick-knees and Black-bellied Terns. We will also have the opportunity to see the ethereal Taj Mahal, that pinnacle of human achievement.

Eventually, we head westwards to the remarkable wetland reserve at Bharatpur, one of the ornithological wonders of the world. Here we will be looking for everything from Painted Stork, Indian Spotted Eagle and the huge Sarus Crane to Indian Thick-knee, Dusky Eagle-Owl and the localized Marshall’s Iora.

For our exciting finale, we will penetrate further into the dry landscapes of Rajasthan and explore the rugged, jungle-clad hills of the famous Ranthambhore National Park, overlooked by a brooding Rajput fortress, definitely now one of the very best places to see the endangered Tiger as well as a superb selection of other mammals and some exciting birds, including such specialities as Painted Spurfowl, Jungle Bush Quail, Mottled Wood Owl and White-naped Woodpecker, while the surrounding arid country holds Painted Sandgrouse, Rock Bush Quail and Indian Courser.

All in all, this combination of superb localities and sufficient time at each makes for the ultimate Northern India birding and tiger-watching experience.

Birdquest has operated Northern India birding tours since 1982.

What makes the Birdquest Northern India birding tour special? Several things, including an extraordinary depth of experience and knowledge about India. Furthermore, the Birdquest group size limit is much lower than for most other Northern India birding tours, making for a much superior experience. In addition, March is a way better month for seeing Tigers at Ranthambhore as compared with November-February, as the Tigers are concentrated around the remaining water. Finally, we don’t keep costs down by making you suffer nights in second class (open, not compartment) sleeping car carriages on Indian railways, which are no fun, to put it mildly, never mind the lack of security!

Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of a good standard throughout. Road transport is by small coach. We use open-sided safari vehicles at Ranthambhore. Roads are variable in quality.

Walking: The walking effort during our Northern India birding tours is mostly easy, but there are a few moderate walks.

Climate: Typically it will be pleasantly warm or fairly hot, dry and sunny in the lowlands and base of the Himalayas, but early mornings are typically cool. In the Himalayas at Naini Tal, it is generally cool or even quite cold. Although overcast weather is not infrequent, rain is uncommon at this season.

Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities during our Northern India birding tours are very good.

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS

  • The classic Indian tour - bird and mammal watching in the Himalayan foothills, at Corbett and Rhanthambore Tiger reserves, Bharatpur, and the Chambal River
  • A great opportunity to see some of South Asias megafauna, from Indian and Red-headed Vultures, Black-necked and Painted Storks, Great White and Dalmation Pelicans to Tiger, Leopard, Sloth Bear and Asia Elephant
  • Unparalleled opportunities to see and photograph Tigers
  • The amazing Taj Mahal at Agra - a mausoleum of ethereal beauty built by the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife
  • In search of Indian Courser, Sind Sparrow and Brooks’s Leaf Warbler at Sultanpur National Park
  • Exploring Jim Corbett country, with safaris through the extensive forests and grasslands of the national park that bears his name - the epitome of the India so vividly described in The Maneaters of Kumaon
  • Specialities of the Terai - Tawny Fish Owl, wintering Nepal Cupwings, and Black-chinned Babbler, not to mention a wide selection of mammals including Asian Elephant and, of course, Tiger
  • Iconic birds of the boulder-strewn foothill rivers - the unique Ibisbill and wonderful Wallcreeper
  • Breathing in the fresh mountain air and getting a taste of the awesome Himalayas around the old hill station of Naini Tal
  • Speciality birds of the Western Himalayas, with such classics as Himalayan and Brown-fronted Woodpeckers, Streaked Laughingthrush, Himalayan Black-lored Tit, Black-headed Jay, and Pink-browed Rosefinch
  • Taking the scenic back roads towards Vinayak, where rare Cheer Pheasants can still be found on the precipitous grassy slopes
  • Secluded Sat Tal lake with its Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush, Long-billed Thrush, Himalayan Rubythroat and some great bird-hide close-ups
  • Gliding along the Chambal River - a last refuge for endangered species like Indian Skimmer, Black-bellied Tern, Ganges River Dolphin, and amazing long-nosed Gharials
  • Wandering the trails of Bharatpur - a unique wetland and sanctuary for the likes of breeding storks, Indian Spotted Eagle, huge Sarus Cranes, Dusky Eagle-Owl, Indian Golden Oriole, and the localized Marshall’s Iora
  • Exploring the semi-desert habitats of Rajasthan, on the lookout for Painted Sandgrouse, Rock Bush Quail, White-naped Woodpecker and White-capped Bunting
  • The excitement and anticipation of jeep rides in wonderful Rhanthambore Tiger reserve, with its 10th century fort - Painted Spurfowl, Jungle Bush Quail and perhaps even Mottled Wood Owl
  • Soaking up wonderful encounters with Tigers at one of their most reliable locations in India, not to mention chances to see Leopard and Sloth Bear

OUTLINE ITINERARY

  • Day 1: Morning tour start at Delhi. Visit Sultanpur Jheel, then drive to Jim Corbett National Park.
  • Days 2-3: Jim Corbett National Park.
  • Day 4: Drive to Naini Tal in the Himalayas.
  • Days 5-7: Exploring the Naini Tal region.
  • Day 8: Drive to Kathgodam, then express train to Delhi.
  • Day 9: Drive to Agra and visit the Taj Mahal. Continue to Chambal River.
  • Day 10: Chambal River, then drive to Bharatpur.
  • Days 11-12: Keoladeo Ghana Sanctuary, Bharatpur.
  • Day 13: Bharatpur, then train to Sawai Madhopur.
  • Days 14-16: Ranthambhore National Park and surrounds. Overnights at Sawai Madhopur.
  • Day 17: Ranthambhore area, then train to Delhi for evening tour end.

To see a larger map, click on the square-like ‘enlarge’ icon in the upper right of the map box.

To see (or hide) the ‘map legend’, click on the icon with an arrow in the upper left of the map box.

To change to a satellite view, which is great for seeing the physical terrain (and for seeing really fine details by repetitive use of the + button), click on the square ‘map view’ icon in the lower left corner of the ‘map legend’.

PRICE INFORMATION

Birdquest Inclusions: Our tour prices include surface transportation, accommodations, meals and entrance fees.

We also include all tipping for local guides, drivers and accommodation/restaurant staff.

Deposit: 10% of the total tour price. Our office will let you know what deposit amount is due, in order to confirm your booking, following receipt of your online booking form.

TO BOOK THIS TOUR: Click here (you will need the tour dates)


2021: £4590, $5890, €5150, AUD8420. Delhi/Delhi.
2022: provisional £4670, $5990, €5240, AUD8560. Delhi/Delhi.

Single Supplement: 2021: £680, $880, €770, AUD1250.
Single Supplement: 2022: £690, $890, €770, AUD1270.

The single supplement will not apply if you indicate on booking that you prefer to share a room and there is a room-mate of the same sex available.

This tour is priced in US Dollars. Amounts shown in other currencies are indicative.

Air Travel To & From The Tour: Our in-house IATA ticket agency will be pleased to arrange your air travel on request, or you may arrange this yourself if you prefer.

 

TIGERS & BIRDS OF NORTHERN INDIA BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY

Northern India: Day 1  Our Tigers & Birds of Northern India birding tour begins this morning at our hotel near Delhi airport. We will be departing at around 0600.

(Most international flights into Delhi arrive in the early hours of the morning. It is perfectly possible to fly in early this morning and be transferred to the hotel to meet up with the group. Alternatively, if you would like to be rested before the tour start, you can arrange to arrive in Delhi the previous day and we can book you a hotel room and an airport transfer on request.)

First, we will visit Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary, situated just over the border in the adjoining state of Haryana, and its surroundings. Here we will concentrate our efforts on the dry woodland and semidesert habitats, where we have an excellent chance of seeing the beautiful Indian Courser, Indian Bushlark, Sind Sparrow (a recent colonist of the Delhi region) and wintering Brooks’s Leaf Warblers from the Northwest Himalayas, all four of which are Indian subcontinent endemics.

The restored lagoon in the sanctuary, which is topped up by a pipeline from a nearby irrigation canal, hosts thousands of resident and wintering waterbirds, including the magnificent Painted and Black-necked Storks. Other species we are likely to encounter at Sultanpur include Little Grebe, Little and Great Egrets, Eastern Cattle Egret, Grey and Purple Herons, Indian Pond Heron, Greylag Goose, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Eurasian Teal, Black-winged (or Black-shouldered) Kite, Black Kite, Common Moorhen, Common Coot, Red-wattled Lapwing, Rock Dove (here of a genuine wild population), Eurasian Collared and Laughing Doves, Rose-ringed (or Ring-necked) Parakeet, Little Swift, Indian Roller, Green Bee-eater, White-throated Kingfisher, Grey-throated Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-vented Bulbul, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Indian Robin, Black Redstart, Jungle and Large Grey Babblers, Ashy Prinia, Hume’s Leaf Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Purple Sunbird, Common and Bank Mynas, Asian Pied Starling, Black Drongo and House Crow.

Afterwards, we will drive to Jim Corbett National Park, where we will spend the next three nights.

Northern India: Days 2-3  Jim Corbett National Park protects a large tract of forest and grassland at the base of the Himalayas and this exceedingly beautiful stretch of country epitomizes the India so vividly described in The Maneaters of Kumaon and other books by Jim Corbett, who lived for many years in the area and in whose honour the park was named. During the winter months, large numbers of birds from the higher levels of the Himalayas descend to the foothills, combining with those already present to give the park one of the richest avifaunas in northern India at this season. We will be exploring a number of excellent birding areas both inside and outside the park.

The small settlement of Dhikala, in the heart of the park, overlooks an attractive lake formed by the damming of the Ramganga River and here we may well see both Pallas’s and Lesser Fish Eagles. Other specialities of the park that we are likely to encounter include Tawny and Brown Fish Owls, and the restricted-range Nepal Cupwing (formerly Nepal Wren-Babbler).

Along the crystal-clear rivers and streams we will search for Crested Kingfisher, Pale Martin, White-browed and Himalayan Wagtails, Brown Dipper, Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts, Little, Slaty-backed and Spotted Forktails, and Blue Whistling Thrush, whilst if we are lucky we will come across a wintering Wallcreeper. Extensive tracts of elephant grass provide a home for such species as Black Francolin, Aberrant and Grey-sided Bush Warblers, Bright-capped Cisticola, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, Yellow-eyed Babbler, Red Avadavat, Chestnut-eared and Crested Buntings, and sometimes the uncommon and localized Hodgson’s (or White-throated) Bushchat (which breeds largely in Mongolia and winters in the northern plains of the Indian subcontinent), White-tailed Stonechat and Chestnut-capped Babbler. Swirling masses of hirundines and swifts are frequently overhead and we shall be particularly looking out for Himalayan Swiftlet, White-rumped Spinetail and Crested Treeswift.

Along the forest tracks, we shall look for Plum-headed and Slaty-headed Parakeets, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Streak-throated Woodpecker, Himalayan Flameback, Golden-fronted and Orange-bellied Leafbirds, Common Iora, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Large Woodshrike, the diminutive Chestnut-headed Tesia, Grey-breasted Prinia, Grey-hooded Warbler, Whistler’s Warbler, Slaty-blue and Little Pied Flycatchers, Small and Rufous-bellied Niltavas, Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, White-crested Laughingthrush, Black-chinned Babbler, Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Black-hooded Oriole, Rufous Treepie and many other avian denizens of this wonderful place.

We also have a good chance of seeing Black Stork, Cinereous (or Eurasian Black) and Red-headed Vultures, Hen Harrier, Changeable and Mountain Hawk-Eagles, Collared Falconet, Common Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon, Kalij Pheasant, Red Junglefowl, Indian Peafowl, Green Sandpiper, Spotted Dove, Asian Barred and Jungle Owlets, Common Kingfisher, Lineated and Blue-throated Barbets, Grey-headed, Fulvous-breasted and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers, Red-rumped Swallow, Grey Wagtail, Large Cuckooshrike, Black-crested, Red-whiskered, Himalayan and Ashy Bulbuls, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Siberian Stonechat, Common Tailorbird, Taiga (or Red-throated) Flycatcher, Scaly-breasted Cupwing, Jungle Babbler, Zitting Cisticola, Siberian Chiffchaff, Cinereous Tit, Oriental White-eye, Indian Jungle Crow, Hair-crested Drongo, Jungle Myna and Common Rosefinch.

If we are fortunate we will encounter Rufous-bellied Eagle, the huge Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl or Great Hornbill.

Corbett has a good many mammals and we are likely to encounter such species as Rhesus Macaque, Tarai Grey Langur, Golden Jackal, Asian Elephant, Wild Boar, the elegant Spotted Deer, Sambar, Indian Muntjac and Hog-Deer, as well as that strange fish-eating crocodile, the Gharial. Unlike the situation in many Indian reserves, Tiger sightings have actually increased in Corbett in recent years, and we have our first real chance of seeing a Tiger during our stay.

Northern India: Day 4  Leaving Corbett behind, we will ascend the foothills and continue up to the picturesque hill station of Naini Tal for a four nights stay, enjoying the fine scenery en route.

We will make several stops along the way, hoping for the strange Ibisbill, which winters here along the rivers although they sometimes seem to be absent. We will also encounter wintering Common Mergansers (or Goosanders) and nesting White-rumped Vultures.

Northern India: Days 5-7  Naini Tal, an attractive but rather shabby reminder of the days of the British Raj, is situated at nearly 2000m and lies in a hollow in the mountains by the shore of the lake that gives the town its name. Surrounding peaks rise to over 2600m and the whole area is a mixture of open country, extensive areas of mixed forest and small lakes. From the crests of some of the wooded ridges it is possible to obtain spectacular views on clear days of the snowy Himalayan giants stretching out along the horizon.

The avifauna here is dramatically different from that of the lower foothills. Such contrasts are one of the pleasures of Himalayan birding – new species are constantly appearing whenever one ascends or descends. During our stay, we will explore the area around the town and also drop down to lower levels where the birdlife is rather different from the conifer-clad higher ridges.

Western Himalayan specialities that we will particularly want to find during our visit include the secretive Cheer Pheasant (we have a good chance at the sites we know!), Scaly-bellied, Himalayan and Brown-fronted Woodpeckers, Streaked Laughingthrush, Spot-winged and Himalayan Black-lored Tits, and Black-headed Jay. Blue-capped Redstart and Pink-browed Rosefinch are two more Western Himalayan specialities that occur here only in winter.

The number and variety of the area’s other winter visitors (some from northern Asia, others altitudinal migrants from the high Himalayas) fluctuates according to the severity of the weather, but species present often include Himalayan Buzzard, Black-throated and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Siberian and White-tailed Rubythroats, Himalayan Bluetail, Golden Bush Robin, Blue-fronted Redstart, Dark-throated and Plain-backed Thrushes, Red-fronted Serin, Dark-breasted Rosefinch and White-capped Bunting. Altai Accentor is of less predictable occurrence.

Himalayan Vultures are often seen soaring overhead, with Bearded Vulture (or Lammergeier) appearing less frequently, whilst other resident birds we are likely to encounter include Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Oriental Turtle Dove, Great Barbet, Speckled Piculet, Nepal House Martin, Long-tailed Minivet, Ashy and Mountain Bulbuls, Grey Bushchat, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Striated Prinia, Buff-barred, Lemon-rumped and Ashy-throated Warblers, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, White-throated, Striated and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Rufous Sibia, Green-backed, Yellow-browed Tit, Black-throated Bushtit, White-tailed Nuthatch, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Eurasian Jay, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Grey Treepie, Russet Sparrow, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch and Rock Bunting.

We are also likely to encounter some of the scarcer residents of the area, which include Hill Partridge, Koklass Pheasant, Upland Pipit, Long-billed and Chestnut Thrushes, Grey-winged and White-collared Blackbirds, Verditer Flycatcher, Black-faced Warbler, Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush, and Himalayan and Green Shrike-Babblers.

Northern India: Day 8  After some final birding in the Himalayas we will descend to Kathgodam and catch a fast express train to Delhi, where we stay overnight.

Northern India: Day 9  This morning we will travel southwestwards by a fast, modern expressway (so different from road journeys in much of India) to the historic city of Agra, where we shall make our way to the incomparable Taj Mahal, a mausoleum of ethereal beauty built by the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, that really does live up to its reputation and more. This immense building seems to float on its white marble plinth whilst inside the light filters gently down to softly illuminate the jewel-encrusted tombs of the emperor and his beloved.

The Taj Mahal is positioned immediately above the Yamuna River and numerous waterbirds can be seen feeding along the shallow channels while Black Kites and Little Swifts soar overhead, Brown Rock Chats sit on the surrounding buildings and cheeky Northern Palm Squirrels scamper about the immaculate grounds.

Afterwards, we head southeast towards the Chambal River region for an overnight stay, arriving in time for some birding in the area around our lodge this afternoon. The grounds frequently hold both Indian Scops Owl and Brown Hawk-Owl, and there is a good chance of seeing Asian (or Common) Palm Civet.

The journey from Agra takes us across the edge of the Gangetic Plain, the heartland of Hindu India and the most populous part of the country, providing a fascinating glimpse of rural Indian life. The mix of traffic on the roads, consisting of buses, trucks, cars, motorized and cycle rickshaws, bullock carts and pedestrians carrying every imaginable item, has to be seen to be believed. Rural scenes of houses and huts, mango groves and mustard fields are interspersed with transits through small towns where cows munch the garbage next to lines of cycle rickshaws and lurid billboards shout at one from the walls of prematurely-aged concrete buildings.

Northern India: Day 10  This morning we will visit the National Chambal Sanctuary on the border between Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh states. Here the Chambal River, the last unpolluted major river in northern India, flows between low erosion cliffs as it approaches its junction with the Ganges.

The sanctuary, which also includes part of the state of Rajasthan further upstream, was set up to protect the healthy population of crocodiles that survives here, and also a population of the highly endangered Gangetic River Dolphin.

When we first arrive it may still be misty, so while we wait for the sun to warm the air we will concentrate on the area around the boat dock. Once it is warm enough we will take a boat trip on the river. We should be able to closely approach the crocodiles as they sun themselves on the sandbars, both the long-snouted Gharial and the more conventionally-shaped Mugger. We also have an excellent chance of seeing the blind Gangetic River Dolphin and we may even be lucky enough to watch them jumping exuberantly, although sometimes they show little more than their backs.

The most notable bird species of the Chambal is the localized Indian Skimmer and we should be able to watch these bizarre creatures living up to their name as they flap across the river, intermittently dipping their ‘broken’ bills into the water, or gather on small islets. Other major attractions include the declining Red-naped (or Indian Black) Ibis, the hulking Great Thick-knee, the increasingly uncommon Black-bellied Tern, and also Sand Lark.

Many other waterbirds will be present, most likely including the impressive Painted Stork, Striated (or Little) Heron, Eurasian Spoonbill, Little and Great Cormorants, Ruddy Shelduck, Lesser Whistling Duck, the elegant Bar-headed Goose, Eurasian Wigeon, Indian Spot-billed Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, River Lapwing, Eurasian Curlew, Black-tailed Godwit, Common and Spotted Redshanks, Common Greenshank, Common and Marsh Sandpipers, Ruff, Little and Temminck’s Stints, Pallas’s (or Great Black-headed) and Brown-headed Gulls, and River Tern.

Other species usually present in the area include Osprey, Oriental (or Crested) Honey Buzzard, Bonelli’s Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, Grey Francolin, the smart Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Red Collared Dove, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Asian Koel, Greater Coucal, Spotted Owlet, Pied Kingfisher, Green Bee-eater, Indian Grey Hornbill, Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Black-rumped Flameback, Crested Lark, Oriental Skylark, Wire-tailed Swallow, White, Masked, Citrine, Sykes’s and Grey-headed Wagtails, Tawny and Paddyfield Pipits, Brahminy Starling, Common Woodshrike, Small Minivet, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Rufous-fronted and Plain Prinias, Pied Bushchat, Common Babbler, Baya Weaver, Yellow-throated (or Chestnut-shouldered) Sparrow and Indian Silverbill. There are also possibilities for Laggar Falcon and Graceful Prinia.

After a late lunch, we will head westwards for Bharatpur for a three nights stay.

Northern India: Days 11-12  Keoladeo Ghana National Park, usually known simply as ‘Bharatpur’, needs little introduction, for it is undoubtedly one of the finest reserves in the world. The sanctuary is an island amidst a sea of cultivation on the edge of the Gangetic plain and attracts great numbers of birds at all seasons, but especially from summer into early winter. Thankfully the water supply for this marvellous sanctuary has now been secured by the construction of a pipeline from the Chambal River, so this jewel of Asian birding is no longer in danger of being lost to the world.

The parts of the reserve favoured by waterbirds are the open, flooded areas which are dotted with clumps of trees growing on small islets and surrounded by tree-lined dykes. At the margins of this zone are areas of savanna, acacia-dominated scrub-jungle and groves of tall trees. Indian and Little Cormorants, Oriental Darters, four species of egrets (including Intermediate Egret), Black-crowned Night Herons, Painted Storks, Asian Openbills, Black-headed Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbills all nest in late summer and autumn, once the monsoon rains have flooded the reserve, but many continue to use the trees as secure roosting sites throughout the winter. Numerous Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, White-breasted Waterhens and Grey-headed Swamphens stalk across the carpets of floating vegetation, whilst Woolly-necked and Black-necked Storks, and stately Sarus Cranes wade in the shallows. Parties of Common Cranes also winter in the area. (Formerly the rare and endangered Siberian Crane wintered regularly here, but tragically the western Siberian population is probably now extinct.)

Bharatpur was once famous as a shooting venue for wildfowlers and one can still see the memorial listing the staggering totals of birds slaughtered in a single day in a less conservation-minded era. Nowadays the geese and ducks are unmolested. Amongst the more interesting species are Ferruginous Duck, Cotton Pygmy-goose and Knob-billed Duck. Waders include the lovely White-tailed Lapwing and Wood Sandpiper. Other waterbirds include Great Crested Grebe, Glossy Ibis and Garganey. Passerines of the wetlands include Streak-throated Swallow and Clamorous Reed Warbler.

Turning our attention to the drier grasslands and the wooded areas, we can expect to find Barred Buttonquail, Indian Scops Owl, Dusky Eagle-Owl (a Bharatpur speciality, which has a deep hooting call that is suggestive of the pattern of a bouncing ping-pong ball), Brown-capped (or Indian) Pygmy Woodpecker, the restricted-range Marshall’s Iora, Indian Golden Oriole and sometimes Black-breasted Weaver. We may well come across Large-tailed Nightjar and Jungle Nightjar at their daytime roosts.

The reserve harbours many wintering passerines from northern and central Asia or the Himalayas including Blyth’s Reed, Sykes’s and Greenish Warblers (and sometimes Dusky and Smoky Warblers), Bluethroat, Tickell’s and Orange-headed Thrushes, and Olive-backed Pipit.

Bharatpur’s birds of prey remain a feature of this wonderful reserve, although numbers of many species have declined markedly over recent decades. Eagles are frequently encountered and the most usual species include Eastern Imperial, Steppe and Greater Spotted, and if we are in luck we will also see Indian Spotted, Short-toed and Booted. Other raptors include Western Marsh Harrier and Shikra.

Mammals include Indian Grey Mongoose and the huge Nilgai (or Blue Bull).

Northern India: Day 13  After some final birding at Bharatpur we will take the train southwestwards to the town of Sawai Madhopur, situated at the edge of famous Ranthambhore National Park, for a four nights stay.

Northern India: Days 14-16  Ranthambhore National Park protects some 400 square kilometres of rocky hill and plateau country covered in dry deciduous jungle on the fringes of the Vindhya range in eastern Rajasthan. The park, which has a magnificent setting, is famous as one of India’s foremost Tiger sanctuaries, but its birdlife is equally exciting. The terrain is quite varied, for in addition to the rocky hills with their deciduous jungle there are small lakes and, just outside the reserve, some dry open country and a large reservoir.

The area around the reserve headquarters is dominated by an impressive 11th-century fortress situated on the highest land in the area. During our stay at Ranthambhore, we will explore the interior of the reserve, the surrounding arid country and a large brackish lake. We will make our excursions inside the sanctuary by an open safari truck (the latter provides a great observation platform) in search of mammals and birds.

We have a very good chance of multiple Tiger sightings during our stay, simply because our tour deliberately allows sufficient time at Ranthambhore and visits at the prime season (between March and May). Tiger movements are of course unpredictable, so it is quite possible to go for some time without seeing one, and then perhaps have a series of fantastic close-range encounters! It is all a matter of chance. If you only have two or three nights here, there simply is not enough time to go birding outside the park for important birds like Painted Sandgrouse and still have enough time inside for a high chance of several good Tiger sightings. It costs significantly more to stay longer, and to make more of the expensive excursions into the national park (compared with birding outside the park), but you have travelled so far to look for the magnificent Tiger that we want you to have the best possible experience, especially as for many people it will be their only chance to see this extraordinary creature in the wild! Imagine how disappointing it would be to see just a distant animal, and briefly, or even no Tigers at all!

Although Tigers dominate the scene at Ranthambhore, they would not be there were it not for a healthy population of prey animals. The beautiful Chital (also known as Spotted or Axis Deer) is much the commonest large mammal in the park and we will soon get used to their yelping calls, which rise in pitch when they sight a Tiger. The other really conspicuous species are the larger Sambar deer and the Northern Plains Grey Langur – they are everywhere in the park, sitting in playful, rowdy groups by the roadside or climbing high in the trees. Other mammals commonly observed in and around the park include Rhesus Macaque, Golden Jackal, Indian Grey Mongoose, Ruddy Mongoose, Wild Boar, Nilgai (or Blue Bull), Indian Flying Fox, Northern Palm Squirrel and Indian Hare. If we are lucky we will even come across a Sloth Bear, a Leopard or a Jungle Cat.

Amongst the more interesting birds we may well find during our visit, either in the reserve or in the dry, partly cultivated habitats outside, are Indian Vulture, the superb Painted Spurfowl, Jungle Bush and Rock Bush Quails, Painted Sandgrouse, Sirkeer Malkoha, the impressive Mottled Wood Owl, the handsome White-naped Woodpecker, Bimaculated and Rufous-tailed Larks, Sulphur-bellied Warbler, Variable Wheatear, Isabelline Shrike, Rosy Starling and sometimes Chestnut-eared and Red-headed Buntings. Both Demoiselle Crane and Indian Courser are also possible.

Other species we should encounter include Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Alexandrine Parakeet, Savanna Nightjar, Eurasian Wryneck, Greater Short-toed Lark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark, Eurasian and Dusky Crag Martins, White-bellied Drongo, Isabelline Wheatear, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, White-browed Fantail and Southern Grey Shrike.

Shallow lakes are thronged with waterbirds at this season and we may well find Dalmatian Pelican, Greater Flamingo, Greater Painted-Snipe, Pied Avocet, Lesser Black-backed Gull, and Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns.

Northern India: Day 17  After a final morning in the Ranthambhore area we will return by train to Delhi, where our Tigers & Birds of Northern India birding tour ends this evening.

(A transfer to the airport will be provided, or a transfer to your hotel if you are staying overnight.)

BIRDS & TIGERS OF NORTHERN INDIA TOUR REPORT 2019

by Hannu Jännes

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BIRDS & TIGERS OF NORTHERN INDIA TOUR REPORT 2018

by Hannu Jännes

View Report

BIRDS & TIGERS OF NORTHERN INDIA TOUR REPORT 2016

by Dave Farrow

View Report

Other India and region birding tours by Birdquest include: