SOLOMON ISLANDS BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY
Solomon Islands: First Day Our tour begins today at Honiara, the capital of the Solomon Islands, situated on the island of Guadalcanal.
Owing to endless flight schedule changes in the Solomons, we can never predict the order in which the islands will be visited, other than the fact we start and end the tour at Honiara on Guadalcanal, where the sole international airport is situated. The islands we will be visiting are described below and the amount of time we spend on each will be sufficient, or more than sufficient as we must always build in a considerable ‘safety margin’ on Solomons Islands tours to avoid the risk of being forced to miss out an island, or have far too little time on one, owing to unexpected flight schedule changes.
GUADALCANAL
The name Guadalcanal is still synonymous with huge air and naval battles and bloody jungle warfare, for some of the fiercest fighting in the Pacific between Japanese and Allied forces took place on and around this island. Relics of that great struggle can be found littered throughout the island and its offshore waters, a stark reminder of darker days, when for a brief period in history Guadalcanal was thrust to the forefront of the world’s stage. Now largely ignored and forgotten by the rest of the world, Guadalcanal, like the rest of the Solomons, is a sleepy backwater which receives few visitors from the outside world.
Pacific Swallows, Willie Wagtails, Olive-backed Sunbirds, Singing Starlings and introduced Common Mynas are conspicuous around Honiara and Brahminy Kites are often to be seen at the edge of town.
We will spend much of our time at Mount Austen and on a logging road that penetrates into the mountains. As we walk along trails through the forest we should encounter such Solomons endemics as Pied Goshawk, Solomons (or Ducorps’s) Cockatoo, the attractive Ultramarine Kingfisher, Guadalcanal Dwarf Kingfisher, Chestnut-bellied Monarch, Steel-blue Flycatcher, Midget Flowerpecker and Brown-winged Starling, and we should also find the uncommon Black-headed Myzomela, which is restricted to Guadalcanal. We also have a fair chance of finding the rather elusive endemic Guadalcanal Owl (now treated as an Athene species restricted to Guadalcanal rather than as a more widespread boobook). There is also a slim but real possibility of finding the rare White-eyed Starling amongst the many Metallic Starlings and Long-tailed Mynas.
More widespread species include Buff-banded Rail, Pale-vented (or Rufous-tailed) Bush-hen, Claret-breasted, Superb and perhaps Yellow-bibbed Fruit Doves, Glossy and Uniform Swiftlets, and Grey Fantail.
We will also visit the Betikama wetlands, a haunt of the flightless and threatened endemic Woodford’s Rail as well as Little Pied Cormorant, White-browed Crake and Australian Reed Warbler, while Red-backed Buttonquail may be found in the surrounding grassland. The still remarkably abundant Solomons Cockatoo sometimes poses well for photographs here and we will keep an eye out for vagrants to the islands, as this is a prime location for such wanderers.
MALAITA
From Honiara on Guadalcanal, we travel by ferry to the town of Auki on the adjacent island of Malaita.
We will explore the forested hills of the island’s interior. Malaita is the only island in the Solomons with heavy forest clearance but some good forest sections remain accessible.
The endemic Malaita White-eye and White-gorgeted Fantail are fairly common, but the endemic Red-vested (or Red-bellied) Myzomela will take some time staking out flowering trees. The distinctive malaitae form of the Brown-winged Starling on Malaita may be split in future. We also have a good chance of an encounter with the as-yet-undescribed subspecies of Woodford’s Rail that occurs on this island. The recently-split Malaita Owl is very poorly known but we could get lucky.
TETEPARE (AND MUNDA)
This little-visited island in the New Georgia group, which we will reach by boat from Munda Island, holds some interesting birds, including such New Georgia endemics as Crimson-rumped Myzomela, the handsome White-capped Monarch and Dark-eyed White-eye.
The cryptic endemic Solomons Nightjar was once found throughout the Solomons, but this nightjar roosts on beaches, often among seaweed just above the tideline. As a result, it has declined severely owing to greatly increased human disturbance and has only been reliably recorded in recent times from Tetepare. We will be trying our hardest to get to grips with this poorly-known species that has only been seen by a few birders.
Melanesian Megapode (or Melanesian Scrubfowl) are frequently to be heard and Tetepare is a particularly good place to see this retiring species. Other possibilities include Little Kingfisher and even the rare and declining Dugong.
KOLOMBANGARA
From Tetepare we will travel by boat across to the volcanic island of Kolombangara where we will spend the first night in a basic guesthouse.
Our main target in the Kolombangara lowlands is the endemic Roviana Rail, a species which was only described in 1991 but which emerges onto short grassland at dawn and dusk together with Australasian Swamphens. A goose-like honking is likely to reveal a pair of Sanford’s (or Solomons) Sea Eagles sparring high overhead. Kolombangara, with its rich reefs and forests, is a stronghold for this threatened endemic predator.
Walking slowly through the primary forest, we will be hearing forest birds all the way. Lowland forest species include five rather uncommon endemics; New Georgia Dwarf Kingfisher, White-winged (or Cockerell’s) Fantail, Kolombangara Monarch, Oriole Whistler and Solomons Cuckooshrike. The albina form of the White-winged Fantail found here may represent a distinct species. We are also likely to encounter Metallic (or White-throated) Pigeon, Brush Cuckoo and Blyth’s Hornbill.
Another highlight is the huge Buff-headed Coucal, and we will search through large numbers of Red-knobbed Imperial Pigeons for Pale Mountain Pigeon, and through the many Rainbow Lorikeets for the beautiful endemic Duchess Lorikeet. The endemic Solomons White-eye is a common bird here, while the endemic Grey-capped Cicadabird is straightforward to find. The range-restricted North Melanesian Cuckooshrike is usually to be found in the coastal forest and White-rumped Swiftlets should be seen hawking overhead.
Other more widespread species on Kolombangara include Pacific Reef Heron, Striated Heron, Pacific Black Duck, Osprey, Pacific Baza, the dashing Oriental Hobby, Stephan’s Emerald Dove, Cardinal Lory, Eclectus Parrot, Sacred Kingfisher and White-bellied Cuckooshrike. Much rarer, but occasionally seen, is Meyer’s Goshawk.
The tough trek up to the summit of Kolombangara is most definitely only for the very fit and determined, so some group members will likely opt to spend an extra night in the lowlands.
In the stunted moss forest near the summit, we will camp overnight amongst montane species such as Red-breasted Pygmy Parrot, Island Leaf Warbler, Pacific Robin and large flocks of endemic Kolombangara White-eyes. From the camp viewpoint, we should spot some tiny Solomons-endemic Meek’s Lorikeets.
The following morning we will awake to a dawn movement of pigeons and parrots. Walking to the top of the mountain, our objective is to find the endemic Kolombangara Leaf Warbler, an unobtrusive mouse-coloured bird which has an extremely tiny range around the rim of the volcanic caldera atop Kolombangara. It is quite an effort to reach the home of this special little creature, but it is definitely worth it and it is usually smiles all around when we succeed!
Once we have succeeded we will descend to the lowlands and travel by boat across to Gizo Island for some well-deserved creature comforts.
GIZO
While on Gizo we will walk along a road through a mixture of scrub, gardens and plantations looking for the attractive but endangered endemic Gizo (or Splendid) White-eye, which is often found in mixed flocks with Crimson-rumped Myzomela, Rufous Fantail and White-capped Monarch.
RANONGGA
During the crossing from Gizo to Ranongga, and during the other crossings between the New Georgia Islands, we will be keeping a lookout for the rare and poorly-known Heinroth’s Shearwater and we have a good chance of an encounter. More common seabirds during the crossings include Brown Booby, Lesser and Great Frigatebirds, Black and Brown Noddies, and Greater Crested, Roseate, Black-naped, Common and Bridled Terns.
The journey should also turn up Beach Stone-curlew, Beach Kingfisher and the impressive Sanford’s Sea Eagle.
Once we reach Ranongga we will find the smart endemic Ranongga White-eye and the endemic subspecies of several other forest passerines. In particular, the lavellae form of the White-winged Fantail on Rannonga and Vella Lavella may represent a distinct species. Island Imperial Pigeons are usually conspicuous and the large Beach Kingfisher frequents the coastline.
VELLA LAVELLA
Across another 8-kilometre (5-mile) strait from Ranongga, we reach Vella Lavella, another island with its own endemic, the Vella Lavella (or Banded) White-eye. We will also search for the attractive endemic form of the Oriole Whistler and may also see Melanesian Megapode, Stephan’s Emerald Dove and the huge endemic Buff-headed Coucal. As the sun sets, we will return to our hotel on Gizo.
FERA AND SANTA ISABEL
The airstrip for Santa Isabel is on the small offshore island of Fera, where we should see Island Monarch and may encounter a wintering Pacific Long-tailed Cuckoo.
After crossing the channel to the main island, a steep walk up into the hills takes us to Tirotogna (or Tirotonga) village, home of some of the most sought-after Solomons endemics.
The village has built a simple ‘ecotourism facility’ (a guesthouse) for visiting birders and here in this remote but happy place we will enjoy some wonderful hospitality.
Our prime target on Santa Isabel will be the beautiful endemic Black-faced Pitta, which has been seen by very few birders. Although very shy, it is highly vocal and we should all hear and with persistence eventually see what may be the least-known pitta in the world!
White-billed Crow, an endemic species with an outlandish huge bill and remarkable calls, is common here, as is the endemic Yellow-throated White-eye. Less common endemics are North Solomons Dwarf Kingfisher, Solomons Cuckooshrike, White-winged (or Cockerell’s) Fantail, Solomons Monarch, Red-capped Myzomela and Woodford’s Rail. The very poorly-known endemic Imitator Sparrowhawk is a secretive forest raptor that requires an unusual amount of luck to find, but by spending some time at viewpoints overlooking the hills we may strike gold.
We will also want to find the endemic Solomons Frogmouth (now placed in its own genus), the interesting West Solomons Owl (now classified as an Athene rather than as a boobook) and the imposing endemic Fearful Owl. All are difficult to see at night, especially Fearful Owl, although we will try hard if necessary. Hopefully, our keen local guides will have found us roost sites for these rare and little-known species so that we can observe them in detail in daylight.
MAKIRA (SAN CRISTOBAL)
Another flight from Honiara will take us to Kirakira on the island of Makira (or San Cristobal), from where we will drive along the few kilometres of road and then hike inland to the village of Na’ara in the Hauta conservation area. Hauta is a classic example of integrating conservation with traditional values.
The hike takes several hours and is steep and usually involves one or more river crossings (the crossings may be aided by canoes, depending on the state of the water levels). However, we will take our time over the hike, passing through plenty of good forest and enjoying the forest bird species along the way. We will see our first Makira endemics such as the attractive White-headed Fruit Dove, Makira Cicadabird, Sooty Myzomela, Makira Honeyeater (or San Cristobal Melidectes), White-collared Monarch, Makira Flycatcher, Makira Fantail, Makira Starling and Mottled Flowerpecker, as well as the regionally-endemic Yellow-bibbed Fruit-Dove and Yellow-bibbed Lory.
Makira is the easternmost limit for several bird species and groups, such as Common Kingfisher, whilst this isolation has led to divergent evolution of others, such as the distinctive and isolated Solomons-endemic form of the Spangled Drongo (which is found only on Makira and Guadalcanal).
Staying at about 1600ft (500m) in the Hauta conservation area, we will enjoy the traditional village hospitality while we explore a network of trails in pristine hill and mountain rainforest with the aid of our skilled local guides.
This is the best site for the threatened and virtually endemic Yellow-legged Pigeon and endemic Chestnut-bellied Imperial Pigeon, which are both uncommon but join other pigeon species in the fruiting trees or perch on exposed branches. We will trek to the higher ridges in the area to search for Shade Bush Warbler in the dark forest understorey, whilst the Makira (or White-bellied) Thrush is very shy and requires luck and patience to see well. Endemics in the mixed-species flocks here include Makira Leaf Warbler and Grey-throated White-eye, together with the more widespread Long-tailed Triller.
Whilst looking for thrushes and other birds we may also encounter Bronze Ground Dove and we have a very good chance of finding the endemic Makira Dwarf Kingfisher. Throughout our time in the area, we will be listening carefully for the distinctive call of the endemic Crested Cuckoo-Dove. With time and persistence, we should be able to lure one into view, allowing us all to admire this most bizarre pigeon. The Makira Owl is now treated as a single-island endemic rather than as part of a widespread ‘Solomons Boobook’ and we have a good chance of seeing this interesting bird during our visit.
After a final morning at Hauta, we will return to the lowlands and stay overnight in a guesthouse close to the airstrip. Here we will have another chance to catch up on lowland forest species before we fly back to Honiara.
RENNELL
The remote island of Rennell is a World Heritage Site. Landing on the rough grass airstrip, we will disturb numbers of Australian White Ibis which are remarkably tame and widespread across the island, behaving almost like farmyard chickens. The endemic race pygmaeus (restricted to Rennell and nearby Bellona), is not only smaller than the nominate race birds found 1,500 kms away in Australia but has pink legs and looks and sounds quite different. It is surely a potential split as Rennell or Pygmy White Ibis.
On Rennell birds are abundant along the trails through the forest which grows on this large raised coral reef, situated far out in the Coral Sea and very unlike most of the other Solomon Islands, which are mountainous. Despite heavy and ongoing logging, most of the Rennell endemics, including Rennell Fantail, the beautiful Rennell Shrikebill, Rennell Starling, Rennell White-eye and the weird Bare-eyed White-eye, are generally common and confiding, but the Rennell Whistler is uncommon and restricted to undisturbed forest.
The other passerines on Rennell include three Melanesian endemics, Cardinal Myzomela, Fan-tailed Gerygone and Melanesian Flycatcher, as well as Yellow-eyed Cuckooshrike and Island Thrush (the latter a Eurasian Black-bird-like race, found here at sea level). As elsewhere in the country, there is very little hunting in the extensive forests and we will see large numbers of the endemic Silver-capped Fruit Dove, as well as Pacific Imperial Pigeon, Mackinlay’s Cuckoo-Dove and Song Parrot. Another highlight is the abundance of diminutive Finsch’s Pygmy Parrots, which can be watched nibbling away at the trunks and branches of the roadside trees. Other species likely to be seen are Shining Bronze Cuckoo, the elegant Moustached Treeswift and Pacific Kingfisher, whilst this is the only island in the Solomons with resident Brown Goshawks.
If we have time, we will try to make an excursion to a more distant part of the island where a large freshwater lake holds Australasian Grebe and an island in the lake provides a nesting area for Red-footed Boobies and Great and Little Pied Cormorants.
Solomon Islands: Final Day Our tour ends today at Honiara.
SANTA CRUZ ISLANDS EXTENSION
Please see the details of the extension on the tour Overview page.