SRI LANKA TOUR REPORT 2024

1 - 12 December 2024

by Dave Farrow

In the 26 years since my first visit to Sri Lanka (and six since my most recent), little seems to have changed in Sri Lanka. The rich forests full of endemic fauna, and the wetlands with their casual abundance of birdlife are all still thriving. Of course there have been dramatic events for the people here, but the country still retains its charm, tranquillity, and dignity, with polite and kind locals who have a distinct and tasty cuisine, plus the country is just so tidy! This was the first post-pandemic Birdquest tour to Sri Lanka, an interval that has added yet another endemic bird to the list to make thirty-five endemic species. Fortunately, I can report that we saw them all! Highlights among them would be the daytime Serendib Scops Owl found for us by local trackers at Kitulgala, along with pairs of Chestnut-backed Owlet and Green-billed Coucals, the sneaky Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush, Red-faced Malkoha in mixed flocks with Ashy-headed Laughingthrush and Orange-billed Babblers, White-faced Starlings and Sri Lanka Hill Myna. Sri Lanka Spurfowl performed at a jungle blind, Sri Lanka Blue Magpie and Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill pleased us on multiple occasions, while in the highlands we enjoyed great looks at Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush. A splendid list of secondary targets was headlined by a daytime Sri Lanka Bay Owl, for the first time on this tour (and probably the leader’s favourite) plus stunning Pied Thrushes, Kashmir Flycatcher, Malabar Pied Hornbills and Blue-faced Malkohas, Malabar Trogons, Indian and Jerdon’s Nightjars, Jungle Owlet, two Brown Fish Owls, a Brown Wood Owl and three Sri Lanka Frogmouths.

Our tour began in the humid lowlands, and together with our guide Saman we set off to our first destination: Kitulgala on the Kelani River, the location for the 1957 film ‘The Bridge on the River Kwai’. A couple of roadside stops on our leisurely journey produced our first Sri Lanka Swallow, Changeable Hawk-Eagle and Crested Serpent Eagles, plus two Crested Honey Buzzard and Ashy Woodswallow. On arriving at the Kitulgala Resthouse, riverside birding produced our first Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Yellow-fronted Barbet, Square-tailed and Yellow-browed Bulbuls, Brown-breasted and Asian Brown Flycatchers. In the afternoon we walked through tea plantations and secondary woods seeing White-rumped Munia, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Tawny-bellied Babbler, Lesser Yellownape, Southern Hill Myna, Layard’s Parakeet, Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters and some very confiding Sri Lanka Swallows perched above our heads.

At dawn, the next morning we crossed the river on a small pontoon and explored the gardens and plantations on the other side of the river. Our quest for Green-billed Coucal was successful when a pair came to investigate us and showed well in the tops of nearby trees. We also found Orange-billed Babblers, Yellow-fronted Barbet, Brown Shrike, and Sri Lanka Green Pigeon. Some tasty local pancakes (‘hoppers’) supplemented our hotel breakfast, we then recrossed the river. It was a hot and humid walk up into the Makandaw Reserve Forest, and recent rains had raised the water levels requiring us to wade a river to reach our intended destination. Up here local guides had been out searching on our behalf, and our guide Saman received a call to say that they had found a Serendib Scops Owl! I really did not expect that, given that there is only one known territory in this forest! We were led to a dense thicket on a muddy slope, and sure enough there sat a Serendib Scops Owl, looking lovely and rusty orange. We took turns to peer through a gap in the foliage to where he sat roosting quite close to the ground. You lucky people! Also, the local trackers had a bonus for us, two separate Sri Lanka Frogmouth at roost, allowing great close views. We spent the afternoon in the riverine forest near to our hotel, hopeful for a Chestnut-backed Owlet, but it did not oblige. An Indian Pitta showed nicely, posing in the gloom of the forest floor.

The next morning, we crossed the river once again in search of the Chestnut-backed Owlet. On our way we heard two Black-backed Dwarf Kingfishers were calling, and one appeared briefly, oddly in the canopy of a tall tree! We eventually found the Owlet calling from a hidden perch, however when we got closer it shot off, never to reappear. At this moment Saman received a call to say that two Owlets were now showing, back where we had been searching yesterday! We headed back to the river and rushed over there. The birds had been lost, but after a short time we relocated them, and had stunning views of the pair sat together at eye level. Hurrah! Back to our lodgings for breakfast, then we headed for our next destination. In the mid afternoon we reached the Blue Magpie Lodge at Sinharaja, and for the rest of the afternoon we walked the nearby lanes finding Black-faced Munia, Sri Lanka Hanging Parrots, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Crimson-fronted Barbet, Golden-fronted Leafbird and a Banded Bay Cuckoo.

The next day we climbed aboard ancient jeeps in darkness, and drove slowly up a bumpy track to reach the higher levels and the Sinharaja Rainforest reserve. As the light came up, we paused beside a half-built house, and huddled behind a sheet of plastic that functioned as a rude hide. Looking out onto some level ground on a forest slope, soon several Sri Lanka Junglefowl appeared, attracted by the spilled rice, joined by several Asian Emerald Doves and Spotted Dove, and after a while a pair of Sri Lanka Spurfowl crept in, the male all striped and spotted white, the female a more demure tawny brown. They gave us a good show for several minutes, at times harassed by the Junglefowls, before heading back into the gloom. So good to see these shy birds like this, they used to be a nightmare to try and tape-lure! Scanning from the terrace outside as the morning bird activity picked up, we added White-faced Starlings, Sri Lanka Hill Myna, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Sri Lanka Drongo, and White-browed Bulbul. We headed on up to the park, finding some stunning Crimson-backed Flamebacks en route, and almost as soon as we entered through the gates of the reserve, we hit a large feeding flock. Initially attracted by the chuntering of Orange-billed Babblers, some confiding Ashy-headed Laughingthrushes came close to us, and two Red-faced Malkoha appeared in the treetops. Add to this confiding Spot-winged Thrushes, Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler and Malabar Trogons, plus another roosting Sri Lanka Frogmouth, we were in danger of cleaning up already! Further searching in the forest produced another feeding flock with similar species, and we took time to look at a splendid Lyre Head Lizard, and Sri Lanka Tree Nymphs in nuptial display. We headed back for lunch at the famous ‘Martin’s’ lodge, a lovely spread of local food paired with a busy bird table dominated by Square-tailed and Yellow-browed Bulbuls, with Yellow-fronted Barbet and  Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill also visiting, and cute little Layard’s Palm Squirrels. We headed back down into the valley, and finished the afternoon with a quartet of Sri Lanka Blue Magpie and a tree full of Sri Lanka Hanging Parrots.

Another bumpy ride up the track to the Sinharaja Rainforest, for a morning of creeping along the track, peering into the dense forest in search of Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush. Unfortunately, no joy with that one, in fact activity was much quieter overall than the previous day. A feeding flock produced Red-faced Malkohas, alongside Orange-billed Babblers and Sri Lanka Drongos, Indian Paradise Flycatchers and Black-naped Monarch. A Legge’s Flowerpecker and Sri Lanka White-eyes were seen briefly, and then we retreated to our lunch place where we were treated to four Sri Lanka Blue Magpies coming to the feeder just as the heavens opened. Further searches for that pesky Thrush a blank, so try again tomorrow!

On our third try, we did not have to walk far into the Sinharaja Rainforest before the high-pitched call of Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush could be heard by Saman. Lengthy scanning finally located the bird buried deep among the tangle of branches on the other side of the stream, but it took a long time to get views. Eventually it became more active, showing several times down in a muddy stream bed before it came up the bank and flew off into the forest, followed by its mate a short time later. Phew! What an effort for a bird that looks just like the mud it loves to feed in! We could relax a bit now, and we pottered about the upper reaches until lunchtime, having some splendid views of Legge’s Flowerpeckers, Orange Minivets, Common Iora, and some confiding Sri Lanka Blue Magpies. After lunch we headed downhill, finding Black-headed Cuckooshrike en route, and then we paused at our well-appointed hotel while our guides went off in search of roosting Sri Lanka Bay Owl, alas to no avail. Around our lodge were numerous Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, a Rufous-bellied Eagle, Sri Lanka Green Pigeon, Sri Lanka Hanging Parrots, Brown Shrike, and a Banded Bay Cuckoo kept up his dreamy song from a hidden perch. Later on, a foray into nearby woodland found a roosting Brown Shrike and a Brown-breasted Flycatcher, but no Owls were calling tonight.

The next morning, we were poised to move on, but were also waiting on news from our guides who were out looking for Sri Lanka Bay Owl. We enjoyed some leisurely birding around our lodgings, and then came the word – they had found it! We hurriedly packed up the bus and checked out, and drove down the road to where we were led into the forest and down a slope. From a precarious position on the riverbank, we could see a tidy bundle of feathers hidden in a dense patch of  forest; a Sri Lanka Bay Owl trying to sleep. Wow! So happy to see this, a new bird for the tour, and the first time in Sri Lanka for the leader.

Waving goodbye to this wonderful location, we headed onwards along narrow roads to Udawalawe, and our well-appointed hotel. It was a short walk to the habitat where we spent the afternoon birding, on the edge of the great Udawalawe reservoir, where the scrubby margins and marshy shallows was absolutely heaving with birds. We found the endemic Sri Lanka Woodshrike, Thick-billed and Pale-billed Flowerpeckers, Purple and Purple-rumped Sunbirds, Marshall’s and Common Ioras side by side, Jerdon’s Bushlark, Paddyfield Pipit, Yellow-eyed Babblers and Grey-breasted Prinia. There were also plentiful Asian Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Barred Buttonquail, Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Indian and Great Stone-Curlew, Eurasian Spoonbills, Painted Storks, Oriental Honey Buzzard, White-bellied Sea Eagle, and hundreds of Orange-breasted Green Pigeons and Green Imperial Pigeons heading to roost. At dusk we had great views of both Indian and Jerdon’s Nightjars. It was all quite overwhelming after the slow drip-drip of birds in the rainforest!

We headed out into Udawalawe National Park in safari jeeps, a large area dominated by thorny bushes with a few scattered trees. Noted for its Elephants, many other tourists were also here, but it was quite easy for us to escape to quieter corners. A wide selection of species occur, and we found Crested Honey Buzzard, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Asian Woolly-necked Stork, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, some superb Malabar Pied Hornbills, Indian Roller, Blue-faced Malkoha, Grey-bellied and Jacobin Cuckoos, Alpine Swifts, and so many Indian Peafowl everywhere. Passerines also featured with Forest Wagtail, Jerdon’s Bushlark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks, Blyth’s Pipit, Rosy Starlings, and Jungle Prinia. We saw some fine Asian Elephant, and a few Black-naped Hare.

En route to our next destination we paused by a roadside reservoir where we saw Pheasant-tailed Jacanas in breeding dress, Grey-headed Swamphens and three Knob-billed Ducks, a write-in for this tour. We arrived at Bundala National Park in the mid-afternoon, and were pitched into a rich seam of avian abundance. Among the many waterside birds were Lesser Adjutant, Black-headed and Glossy Ibis, Painted Stork, Eurasian Spoonbill, Asian Openbill, Pintail Snipe, Yellow Bittern, Striated Heron, Gull-billed ,Caspian, Lesser Crested, Whiskered, Little and White-winged Terns, a group of six Red-necked Phalaropes, Marsh and Curlew Sandpipers, Ruddy Turnstone, Tibetan Sand Plover, Common Ringed, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Great Stone-Curlews and plenty more. Tufted Grey Langurs sat atop the bushes, we saw Indian Grey Mongoose, a huge Marsh Mugger crocodile, and an endearing very young Asian Elephant baby suckling on its mother, ringed by a group of protective females. We spent the night in a very pleasant boutique hotel in Tissamaharama, (or Tissa’ for short.)

A pre-breakfast outing close to our hotel began with the sight (and sound) of hundreds of Indian Flying Foxes hanging in the lakeside Rain trees, plus Black Bittern and Cotton Pygmy Geese on the adjacent ‘tanks’. We did a circuit of ‘home gardens’ where we found a gorgeous pair of White-naped Woodpeckers climbing on coconut palms, a regular spot for this scarce bird. Local scouts had been primed to search out the local Owl roosts, and they led us to a roosting Brown Boobook, two Indian Scops Owls, a Jungle Owlet, and a Brown Fish Owl! Then it was time to set off for the mountains, picking up a Banded Bay Cuckoo en route, then it was time for yet another Owl. The Surrey Estate is a traditional roost site for Brown Wood Owl, and we had a great view of a roosting bird to make it a five owl day!  We saw our first Dull-blue Flycatcher here, plus a trio of Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler. At a short stop before reaching our destination of  Nuwara Eliya, we saw a very confiding pair of Sri Lanka White-eye as the rain and mist descended, and we headed for our hotel.

We set off to Horton Plains National Park in minibuses, an early start was required to reach the highest elevations at 2300m. At first light we saw Indian Blackbirds and Pied Bush Chat, and in the stunted forest we found smart Yellow-eared Bulbuls,  Sri Lanka White-eyes, Dull-blue Flycatcher and two flyby Sri Lanka Woodpigeons. We were struggling to find the elusive Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush at a traditional site, so we headed further into the park to where the hiking trails led to World’s End and the higher peaks. In a quieter part of the forest we soon found Sri Lanka Bush Warbler that showed well in the open, and a confiding Sri Lanka Woodpigeon flapping about in the trees as it took nest material to a hidden lump that turned out to be its mate sat on a nest. Some boisterous Purple-faced Langurs entertained us, some Indian Blue Robins circled us, and eventually we heard the call of a Whistling Thrush. A male appeared, treating us to great views as perched up at the side of  the track. Hurrah! We were well on the way to seeing all the endemics, with just one more to go. On our way back we saw Hill Swallows and Tricoloured Munias in more open areas, and returned to Nuwara Eliya. In the afternoon we visited Victoria Park in the heart of the town, the best site in the world for the scarce Pied Thrush, and it was not long before we were watching two male and one female feeding along the mucky stream. A handsome male Kashmir Flycatcher eventually showed himself, and to finish off we found an Indian Pitta lurking in the shadows.

A stroll in some scrappy habitat close to the town provided more views of Sri Lanka White-eye, Indian Blue Robins (again female-plumaged first year males), Cinereous Tits, Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, an Indian Blackbird, and several Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrikes. We continued our journey, all downhill now, finding several Crested Honey Buzzards, Crested Serpent Eagles and Black Eagle as we went. A pause at a tea factory was a diversion from our usual activities, with Hill Swallows and Loten’s Sunbird in the car park. We headed for our final night stop in Kandy, with time for some afternoon birding at the Udawattakele forest, a jewel of a woodland set right on the edge of town. We found our target of Sri Lanka Shama here fairly swiftly – the most recent endemic species to be split, and the final piece in the puzzle – 35 of 35 endemics seen! Overhead we saw a swarm of Brown-backed Needletails, a lovely Crimson-fronted Barbet, Spot-winged Thrushes, and Southern Hill Mynas whistled from the canopy. We followed this with a visit to the renowned Temple of the Tooth, before a final dinner in our hotel.

Our final birding of the tour saw us back at the Udawattakele forest. A Black-backed Dwarf Kingfisher was glimpsed in the gloom but could not be relocated, but we had some great views of a Brown Fish Owl in one of the great trees. An Eastern Red-rumped Swallow flew by, we saw a trio of Brown-capped Babblers and some vocal Tickell’s Blue Flycatchers. It was then time to leave all this behind, and head towards the coast and the airport. Our staggered departures allowing time for a little birding in the garden of an airport hotel, where a quartet of Loten’s Sunbirds joined Purple-rumpeds, plus noisy Yellow-billed Babblers, Black-hooded Orioles and Red-backed Woodpeckers.

Our happy band of birders headed off in their separate directions, having enjoyed a great tour in this lovely country with a clean sweep of the endemic birds, plus a splendid selection of daytime Owls. As I always say, it would be a great place to overwinter! A special thanks to our guide, Saman Kumara, who did such an excellent job.

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g., it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

The species names and taxonomy used in the bird list follows Gill, F., Donsker, D., & Rasmussen, P.(Eds). 2024. IOC World Bird List (v14.2).

Where the subspecies seen is/are known, these are often given in parentheses at the end of the species comment.

BIRDS
Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica A few seen around the lowland wetlands.
Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos A trio at Thanamalwila Tank, a write-in.
Cotton Pygmy Goose (C Teal) Nettapus coromandelianus Two on tanks at Tissa.
Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus
Sri Lanka Spurfowl ◊ Galloperdix bicalcarata Endemic. Great views of a pair at Sinharaja.
Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayettii Endemic. Widespread, with confiding birds at Kitulgala and Sinharaja.
Jerdon’s Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus atripennis A stunning overhead encounter, plus several perched views.
Indian Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus asiaticus Vocal at Udawalawe with several views, with the above species.
Sri Lanka Frogmouth ◊ Batrachostomus moniliger Three seen, all in daytime.
Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata
Indian Swiftlet Aerodramus unicolor
Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus A swarm of these seen over Kandy.
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Several seen whizzing around at Udawalawe.
Little Swift Apus affinis
Green-billed Coucal ◊ Centropus chlororhynchos Endemic. A good look at a pair at Kitulgala.
Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
Red-faced Malkoha ◊ Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus Endemic. One of the best endemics, big and bright among the feeding flocks at Sinharaja.
Blue-faced Malkoha ◊ Phaenicophaeus viridirostris Quite a few seen at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Singles at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus
Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii Heard often and seen by some at the Blue Magpie Hotel, another seen at a lunch stop in Ella.
Grey-bellied Cuckoo ◊ Cacomantis passerinus Nice views of a trio at Udawalawe.
Fork-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo ◊ Surniculus dicruroides A glimpse of one at Sinharaja.
Common Hawk-Cuckoo ◊ Hierococcyx varius H Heard at Nuwara Eliya and Sinharaja.
Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus A single along the road between Sinharaja and Udawalawe.
Rock Dove Columba [livia] var_domestica
Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon ◊ Columba torringtoniae Endemic. Progressively better views at Horton Plains NP, culminating in a confiding nest-building bird with its mate sat on the twiggy structure.
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Actually a write-in, with some seen at Bundala.
Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis
Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicinctus Plenty at Udawalawe, some gorgeous males there.
Sri Lanka Green Pigeon ◊ Treron pompadora Endemic. Seen quite widely, with many at Kitulgala.
Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Quite common in Sri Lanka.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Grey-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus A few seen on the wetlands in the Tissa area.
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator A good look at one at Udawalawe, with several birds seen.
Great Stone-curlew ◊ Esacus recurvirostris A good number seen at Bundala and some at Udawalawe.
Indian Stone-curlew ◊ Burhinus indicus Several seen near our Udawalawe hotel.
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva A single seen at Bundala, along with most of the other shorebirds listed here.
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Yellow-wattled Lapwing ◊ Vanellus malabaricus A few seen at Udawalawe.
Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
Tibetan Sand Plover Anarhynchus atrifrons Quite a few at Bundala.
Kentish Plover Anarhynchus alexandrinus
Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus Some lovely breeding plumage adults seen.
Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Pin-tailed Snipe Gallinago stenura Numerous in marshy areas at Bundala.
Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus A flock of six on the saltpans were a nice find at Bundala.
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus A single seen in Victoria Park.
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Two seen at Bundala, with two of the following species.
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Little Tern Sternula albifrons
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Quite common around the wetlands.
Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Quite a few on the Bundala saltpans.
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus A few seen with the more numerous above species at Bundala.
Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis A few on the Bundala saltpans.
Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans A few seen at Bundala.
Lesser Adjutant ◊ Leptoptilos javanicus A few of these giants seen at Bundala.
Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala
Asian Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Two soaring birds at Udawalawe.
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster
Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger
Indian Cormorant ◊ Phalacrocorax fuscicollis
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus A flock of 85 flew over at Udawalawe.
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Black Bittern Botaurus flavicollis A nice view of one at Tissa.
Yellow Bittern Botaurus sinensis Several seen around the Bundala and Tissa wetlands.
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Striated Heron Butorides striata Some seen on the Bundala saltpans.
Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
Great Egret (Eastern G E) Ardea [alba] modesta
Medium Egret Ardea intermedia
Eastern Cattle Egret Ardea coromanda
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea A few noted on various wetlands, with many at Bundala.
Spot-billed Pelican ◊ Pelecanus philippensis Not uncommon, seen at Bundala, Tissa and in the middle of Kandy.
Osprey Pandion haliaetus One at Bundala was the only one seen.
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Two seen at Udawalawe.
Crested Honey Buzzard (Oriental H B) Pernis ptilorhynchus Multiple sightings, both perched and airborne.
Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Seen regularly along our route.
Changeable Hawk-Eagle ◊ (Crested H E) Nisaetus cirrhatus Several good examples at Udawalawe.
Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii A single bird seen at Sinharaja.
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis Several seen at Kitulgala, odd birds elsewhere.
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus A brief perched bird at Tissa.
Shikra Tachyspiza badia A roadside single.
Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus
White-bellied Sea Eagle Icthyophaga leucogaster
Grey-headed Fish Eagle Icthyophaga ichthyaetus Singles seen at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Sri Lanka Bay Owl ◊ Phodilus assimilis Fantastic! The local trackers managed to locate this on our final morning at Sinharaja, hidden in a dense thicket along a riverbank. A first for the tour.
Brown Boobook (B Hawk-Owl) Ninox scutulata A single at roost at Tissa.
Jungle Owlet ◊ Glaucidium radiatum A single bird seen at Tissa.
Chestnut-backed Owlet ◊ Glaucidium castanotum Endemic. Great views of a pair watched at eye-level after a lengthy search at Kitulgala. Another seen at Sinharaja. Stuart’s 7000th bird!
Serendib Scops Owl ◊ Otus thilohoffmanni Endemic. A bird that requires a local specialist to find it in its dense thicket roosting place. Great views of this russet endemic, only discovered in 2001.
Indian Scops Owl ◊ Otus bakkamoena A pair at roost at Tissa.
Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis One seen at Tissa and another at Udawattakele, Kandy.
Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica A lovely bird roosting seen at the Surrey Estate.
Malabar Trogon ◊ Harpactes fasciatus Several fine examples seen at Sinharaja, also at Kitulgala.
Malabar Pied Hornbill ◊ Anthracoceros coronatus A splendid looking bird, we saw a few at Udawalawe.
Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill ◊ Ocyceros gingalensis Endemic. Often seen, with great views on the bird feeder at ‘Martin’s’ at Sinharaja.
Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis A pair at Udawalawe.
Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis Frequent at Kitulgala and often vocal there, a few others seen along our route.
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Black-backed Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx erithaca Some brief looks at one at Kitulgala that was sat in the canopy! Also one at Udawattakele that got away from us.
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis A single at Bundala.
Asian Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis
Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus This winter visitor was rather common in places.
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti A nice collection of these at Kitulgala.
Brown-headed Barbet ◊ Psilopogon zeylanicus
Yellow-fronted Barbet ◊ Psilopogon flavifrons Endemic. Quite common by voice in the wet zone, great views at Sinharaja.
Crimson-fronted Barbet ◊ Psilopogon rubricapillus Endemic. Singles seen at Sinharaja and Kandy.
Coppersmith Barbet Psilopogon haemacephalus One seen near our hotel at Udawalawe.
Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker ◊ Yungipicus nanus A couple of singles seen at Sinharaja.
Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Leiopicus mahrattensis Good views of one at Udawalawe.
Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus
Red-backed Flameback ◊ Dinopium psarodes Endemic. Encountered widely.
Crimson-backed Flameback ◊ (Sri Lanka F) Chrysocolaptes stricklandi Endemic. A stunning creature, we saw several at Sinharaja.
White-naped Woodpecker ◊ Chrysocolaptes festivus Scarce in Sri Lanka, we watched a smart pair in a garden at Tissa, exploring holes in a coconut palm trunk.
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus A single seen from the Blue Magpie Lodge at Sinharaja.
Layard’s Parakeet ◊ Psittacula calthrapae Endemic. Frequently seen around Kitulgala, a few others elsewhere.
Alexandrine Parakeet ◊ Psittacula eupatria
Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri
Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot ◊ Loriculus beryllinus Endemic. Quite common in the wet zone, with a big concentration in a flowering tree behind our accommodation at Sinharaja.
Indian Pitta ◊ Pitta brachyura Skulking birds seen at Sinharaja and Victoria Park.
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus A handsome group in a feeding flock at Nuwara Eliya.
Sri Lanka Woodshrike ◊ Tephrodornis affinis Endemic. Close views of a trio near our Udawalawe hotel, plus a single inside the National Park.
Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Seen at our first stop en route to Kitulgala.
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
Marshall’s Iora ◊ (White-tailed I) Aegithina nigrolutea A couple of birds seen at Udawalawe were mixed up with the above species, a fairly recent development to find these here.
Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus
Orange Minivet ◊ Pericrocotus flammeus A few seen in the forests such as at Sinharaja.
Black-headed Cuckooshrike ◊ Lalage melanoptera Dapper males seen at Sinharaja, vocal around the valley.
Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus
Sri Lanka Drongo ◊ Dicrurus lophorinus Endemic. A few seen at Sinharaja, typically perched prominently or joining forest feeding flocks.
White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens
White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea
Indian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi A few seen at Kitulgala and Sinharaja.
Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus
Sri Lanka Blue Magpie ◊ Urocissa ornata Endemic. Not uncommon around Sinharaja, with some confiding birds seen around ‘Martin’s’.
House Crow Corvus splendens
Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus
Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Not uncommon in the higher elevation woodland.
Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus Also appearing at higher elevations.
Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark ◊ Eremopterix griseus Flocks seen in drier habitats at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Jerdon’s Bush Lark ◊ Plocealauda affinis Quite common at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Yellow-browed Bulbul ◊ Acritillas indica Common in the wet zone forests, best views on the feeder at ‘Martin’s’ at Sinharaja.
Square-tailed Bulbul ◊ Hypsipetes ganeesa Like the above, showy at Sinharaja.
Black-capped Bulbul ◊ Rubigula melanictera Endemic. A few birds seen well at Kitulgala and Sinharaja.
White-browed Bulbul ◊ Pycnonotus luteolus A few seen in lowland habitats.
Yellow-eared Bulbul ◊ Pycnonotus penicillatus Endemic. Arguably the best-looking Bulbul, some fine examples at Horton Plains.
Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola Not uncommon at higher elevations, with good views around the tea plantations below Nuwara Eliya.
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Eastern Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica A single seen at Kandy on our last morning.
Sri Lanka Swallow ◊ Cecropis hyperythra Endemic. A handsome bird indeed, we had multiple encounters.
Green Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus nitidus Ever present by voice, with good views of some.
Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris Seen at Sinharaja, but often heard in several localities.
Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum
Sri Lanka Bush Warbler ◊ Elaphrornis palliseri Endemic. An excellent show by a confiding bird at the side of the path in Horton Plains National Park.
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii A single at Udawalawe.
Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica Not uncommon at Udawalawe, also at Bundala.
Ashy Prinia ◊ Prinia socialis A well-watched bird at our Nuwara Eliya hotel.
Plain Prinia Prinia inornata
Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Several vocal birds seen at Udawalawe.
Sri Lanka White-eye ◊ Zosterops ceylonensis Endemic. A few seen in Sinharaja, then more commonly at higher elevations around Nuwara Eliya.
Indian White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus
Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra Small parties seen at Kitulgala and Udawalawe.
Dark-fronted Babbler ◊ Dumetia atriceps Seen at both Kitulgala and Sinharaja, and more commonly at Horton Plains.
Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler ◊ Pomatorhinus melanurus Endemic. Good views of this charismatic bird at Sinharaja, Surrey Estate and Horton Plains.
Brown-capped Babbler ◊ Pellorneum fuscocapillus Endemic. A single showed very well at Kitulgala, plus we saw three at Kandy.
Ashy-headed Laughingthrush ◊ Argya cinereifrons Endemic. Great views of some of these coming low down in feeding flocks at Sinharaja.
Orange-billed Babbler ◊ Argya rufescens Endemic. Noisy and numerous at Sinharaja where they are the first indication of an approaching bird-flock. Also seen at Kitulgala.
Yellow-billed Babbler ◊ Argya affinis
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis
Sri Lanka Hill Myna ◊ Gracula ptilogenys Endemic. Some nice examples seen at Sinharaja.
Southern Hill Myna ◊ Gracula indica Only encountered at Kitulgala and Kandy.
Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
Brahminy Starling Sturnia pagodarum A brief single at Bundala.
White-faced Starling ◊ Sturnornis albofrontatus Endemic. Several seen on our first morning in Sinharaja.
Rosy Starling Pastor roseus Quite numerous at Udawalawe National Park.
Sri Lanka Thrush ◊ Zoothera imbricata Endemic. A devil that lives in the darkest corners, we spent many hours searching before getting some good looks at one of a pair at Sinharaja, when it left the shadows for a brief moment. Probably another was seen briefly at Nuwara Eliya, and heard calling by Saman.
Pied Thrush ◊ Geokichla wardii One of the best-looking birds in Asia, and also very scarce. We saw two males and a female in Victoria Park without much difficulty.
Spot-winged Thrush ◊ Geokichla spiloptera Endemic. This was in good number at Sinharaja, also seen at Kandy.
Indian Blackbird ◊ (Nilgiri B) Turdus simillimus A couple seen at Horton Plains, another at Nuwara Eliya.
Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis
Indian Robin ◊ Copsychus fulicatus
Sri Lanka Shama ◊ Copsychus leggei Endemic. The most recent of the Sri Lanka splits, and the last endemic we added to the list to make it a clean sweep of 35/35. Close views of a singing male at Udawattakele.
Brown-breasted Flycatcher ◊ Muscicapa muttui Frequent sightings in dim woodland, his big eye very obvious at times.
Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica
Dull-blue Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias sordidus Endemic. A single at Surrey Estate and a couple on Horton Plains were the only sightings.
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae
Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush ◊ Myophonus blighi Endemic. Typically skulking, it took a while but we had a close prolonged view of a male on the Horton Plains.
Indian Blue Robin Larvivora brunnea Common by voice in the highlands, only female-plumaged first-year males seen.
Kashmir Flycatcher ◊ Ficedula subrubra A smart male showed well in Victoria Park, one of three present.
Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata
Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons
Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile Two showed well by our Udawalawe hotel, another inside the National Park.
Legge’s Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum vincens Endemic. Some confiding birds seen at Sinharaja.
Pale-billed Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum erythrorhynchos
Purple-rumped Sunbird ◊ Leptocoma zeylonica Not uncommon, the males are quite lovely.
Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus A small number seen around Udawalawe.
Loten’s Sunbird ◊ Cinnyris lotenius A few seen in lowland sites, best views at the Tamarind Tree Hotel.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
Black-throated Munia ◊ Lonchura kelaarti Seen on two days from the Blue Magpie hotel at Sinharaja.
White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata
Tricolored Munia ◊ (Black-headed M) Lonchura malacca A small flock in the grass on Horton Plains.
Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus Two at Udawalawe, singles at Victoria Park and Udawattakele.
Western Yellow Wagtail (form unidentified) Motacilla flava Hundreds seen going to roost at Udawalawe.
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus
Blyth’s Pipit Anthus godlewskii At least one but probably more, at Udawalawe.

MAMMALS
Asian Elephant (Indian E) Elephas maximus Some lovely beasts at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Indian Grey Mongoose Urva edwardsii Two at Bundala.
Ruddy Mongoose Urva smithii Seen in the half light of dawn at Sinharaja. Another seen at the hotel there.
Eurasian Wild Pig Sus scrofa Two seen on the drive to Horton Plains.
Chital (Spotted Deer) Axis axis Quite a few at Udawalawe.
Malabar Red Muntjac Muntiacus malabaricus Confiding ones at Udawattakele.
Sambar Rusa unicolor Big deer at Horton Plains.
Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus Part of a massive roost seen at Tissa.
Toque Macaque Macaca sinica Endemic. A toque is a kind of hat. Who knew?
Tufted Gray Langur Semnopithecus priam Quite common in the lowlands.
Purple-faced Langur Semnopithecus vetulus Endemic. Great views at Horton Plains, also at Sinharaja, with epic calls.
Indian Hare (Black-naped H) Lepus nigricollis A few seen at Udawalawe and Bundala.
Layard’s Palm Squirrel Funambulus layardi Best seen on the feeders at ‘Martin’s’!
Indian Palm Squirrel (Three-striped P S) Funambulus palmarum
Nilgiri Palm Squirrel (D Striped S) Funambulus sublineatus A small number seen around Nuwara Eliya.
Sri Lankan Giant Squirrel Ratufa macroura Singles at Kitulgala and Kandy.

REPTILES
Indian Star Tortoise Geochelone elegans
Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris
Asian Water Monitor Varanus salvator
Bengal Monitor Varanus bengalensis
Hump Snout Lizard Lyriocephalus scutatus
Sri Lanka Kangaroo Lizard Otocryptis wiegmanni
Rhino-horned Lizard Ceratophora stoddartii
Common Green Forest Lizard Calotes calotes
Sri Lankan Green Vine Snake Ahaetulla nasuta
Sri Lanka Keelback Rhabdophis ceylonensis
Sri Lanka Green Pit Viper Craspidocephalus trigonocephalus

LEPIDOPTERA
Blue Mormon Papilio polymnestor
Common Rose Pachliopta aristolochiae
Sri Lanka Tree Nymph Idea jasonia
Grey Pansy Junonia atlites
Indian Moon Moth Actias selene