15 / 19 February - 2 March 2024

by Craig Robson

2024 saw another highly successful tour of these two South-East Asian neighbours. A tough pre-tour extension to Mount Aural in Cambodia reaped rewards with superb close views of Chestnut-headed Partridge and Cambodian Laughingthrush. The cream of the crop during the main tour in Cambodia were a fantastic Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo (at a new site for us), Pale-capped Pigeon, the imperious Giant and White-shouldered Ibises, Milky Stork, Greater Adjutant, Bengal Florican, a stunning male Bar-bellied Pitta, Blue Pitta, White-rumped Falcon, Siamese Pied Myna, Cambodian Tailorbird, Chinese Grassbird, Manchurian Reed Warbler, Asian Golden Weaver, Mekong Wagtail, and Cambodian Flowerpecker. Irrawaddy Dolphin headed-up the mammal list as usual. Our brief visit to Laos brought us our best ever views of the endemic Bare-faced Bulbul, and near-endemic Sooty Babbler, as well as Jerdon’s Bush Chat. The second tier of goodies included Siamese Fireback, Green-legged (or Scaly-breasted) Partridge, Sarus Crane, Common Buttonquail, Jerdon’s Baza, Rufous-winged Buzzard, Spotted and Brown Wood Owls, Moustached Barbet, 12 species of woodpecker, Ochraceous and Puff-throated Bulbuls, Indochinese and Singing (or Australasian) Bush Larks, Sulphur-breasted and Davison’s Leaf Warblers, Brown Prinia, Hume’s White-eye, Vinous-breasted Starling, and Burmese Nuthatch.

Those of us that were taking part in the Mount Aural Pre-tour extension met up at a hotel close to Phnom Penh Airport shortly after lunch, from which we drove the relatively short distance to our hotel in Oudong. We had the remainder of the afternoon to explore a few areas near the town, including the hilltop Wat and river-plain ricefields, scrub and ponds, The relatively recently described Cambodian Tailorbird was the highlight, with a pair performing at close range, thanks to our local birding guide Sophal Chean (Naran), and we were also pleased to find nest-building and displaying Asian Golden Weavers in good numbers, as well as Indochinese Bush Lark.

Early the following morning, we continued by road to Srei Ken Bei, where we transferred to a small open pick-up truck for the bumpy ride through scrappy dry forest fragments to the foot of the mountains. The remainder of the morning was spent hiking up to the lower camp area on Mount Aural, where we had lunch and a welcome break. There were a few birds of interest during our afternoon explorations, including Great and Wreathed Hornbills. Before breaking camp early the following morning, a dozing Pileated Gibbon was spotted, and we had some great looks at this Endangered primate as it woke up and began to move about. From the lower camp, we had to get through the toughest part of the hike, before reaching better quality forest, as the trail gradually levelled-off. It was very sad to see that storms and strong winds had blown down hundreds of trees since our previous visit in 2019, making the trek something of an obstacle course. The trail improved dramatically as we neared our destination, and we all, quite literally, breathed a sigh of relief.

The upper camp, at just under 1200m, was well situated in broadleaved evergreen forest near several small streams, and with two nights under the stars, we had enough time to cover the area well. Our main targets of course, were the endemic Chestnut-headed Partridge and Cambodian Laughingthrush. Fortunately, they both showed incredibly well, the partridge in particular, being unusually confiding. The laughingthrushes were surprisingly quiet. The first group came to drink and bath at a stream at dusk, whilst the second were typically garrulous and responsive. Indochinese Green Magpie were also in the area, but typically sneaky and elusive, whilst a single Blue Pitta showed most of itself. Other highlights during our stay on the mountain included Black, Mountain Hawk- and Rufous-bellied Eagles (the former a surprising tour write-in), Collared Owlet, Orange-breasted and Red-headed Trogons, a fine male Banded Kingfisher, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Moustached Barbet, Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbills, Grey-chinned Minivet, local forms of Mountain Bulbul and Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Ochraceous Bulbul, Sulphur-breasted and Davison’s Warblers, White-browed Scimitar Babbler, local forms of Streaked Wren- and Scaly-crowned Babblers, Lesser Necklaced and White-crested Laughingthrushes, Orange-headed Thrush, Mugimaki Flycatcher, the recently split Cambodian Flowerpecker (formerly lumped in Fire-breasted), and Crimson Sunbird. The endemic lewisi subspecies of Silver Pheasant just evaded us, with only Craig seeing the bird, and he was also lucky enough to find a Dark-sided Thrush one evening when going for a wash by the camp stream.

The trek down was quicker and easier and, once back at Srei Ken Bei, we transferred to a minibus for the drive back to the hotel in Oudong. There, we met up with the rest of the tour participants, and our three four-wheel drive vehicles and drivers, for the start of the main tour.

Early the next morning, we returned to the areas we had recently birded not far from Oudong, as well as exploring some new spots. A nice range of species included Indian Spot-billed Duck, Watercock, Malaysian Pied Fantail, Indochinese Bush Lark, Cambodian Tailorbird, Oriental Reed and Dusky Warblers, Black-collared Starling, the scarce Siamese Pied Myna, and Plain-backed Sparrow.

We continued on to Pursat and checked-in to our hotel there. In the afternoon, we weaved our way along a series of farm tracks towards the edge of the main Tonle Sap floodplain, and the extensive Pursat Grasslands. Once it cooled-off, in a nice area of tall floodplain grassland, we eventually had some great views of the rare Chinese Grassbird, a species that is only known from a handful of sites in the World and was discovered here relatively recently during surveys for Bengal Florican. Also of great interest were a number of rare wintering Manchurian Reed Warblers, two of which gave excellent last-minute views, as the sun started to drop below the horizon. A few other good birds were noted, including Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Watercock, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers, great views of Spotted Owlet, Singing (or Australasian) Bush Lark, Straited Grassbird and Red-throated Pipit.

The following morning, we set off for a direct drive to Siem Reap. A brief pause at a nice wetland produced a good range of waterbirds, including Asian Openbill, Painted Stork, Spot-billed Pelican, Glossy and Black-headed Ibises, and Pied Kingfisher. We arrived at Siem Reap in good time and, after getting our permits for the Angkor Wat site visits, we ate a nice lunch in a cool restaurant nearby. The afternoon was taken-up with a whistle-stop tour of archaeological sites, in the company of an experienced local guide, taking-in Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, and The Bayon with its amazingly well-preserved galleries. The most noteworthy birds on display were the Alexandrine and Red-breasted Parakeets that favour the tall Lagerstroemia trees for their natural nesting cavities, but we also saw a few Black Bazas. Some interesting bat roosts were also found (see the mammal list).

The Great Lake (Tonle Sap) was our destination the following day. Water levels were very low this year, so we had to drive a bit further than usual, before boarding two relatively small boats for the journey across to Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary. Once there, we transferred to two smaller boats in order to negotiate the shallower channels. As we navigated the various creeks, we passed concentrations of egrets, cormorants and Oriental Darters, Black-crowned Night Herons, and the odd Grey-headed Fish Eagle. Soon enough we arrived at a recently built watchtower, where we spent much of the morning scanning for our main targets, Milky and Great Adjutant Storks.  Several of the latter were picked-out soaring, and easily distinguished from the much commoner Lesser Adjutants. Milky Stork required more patience and effort but, thanks to some sharp eyes in the group, one or two were eventually seen well in flight by everyone, amongst the huge numbers of nesting Painted Storks, Asian Openbills, and Spot-billed Pelicans, which filled the skies as the day heated up. Other noteworthy species this morning included Lesser Whistling Duck, good numbers of Cotton Pygmy Goose, a flock of Knob-billed Ducks, Grey-headed Swamphen, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Black and Yellow Bitterns, and numerous Blue-tailed Bee-eaters.

Our second day’s birding based at Siem Reap, was a significant departure from the originally planned itinerary, as we left the hotel very early and drove a couple of hours north to Changkran Roy Community Forest. Several bird-hides have been set up at watering and feeding stations in this recovering but relatively diverse forest. At the first hide, we sat in great anticipation for almost two hours before a superb Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo suddenly emerged from the forest, posed, and then dashed-in to snatch a tasty treat. Needless to say, it was a very happy and satisfied group that moved on to the second hide, where we added a Green-legged (or Scaly-breasted) Partridge and a superb male Bar-bellied Pitta. Lunch and a long shady break followed, before a second spell at a hide, where we succeeded in completing a brilliant haul with some lovely Siamese Firebacks! The best of the rest consisted of showy Red Junglefowl and Common Emerald Doves, Banded Broadbill, Puff-throated Bulbul, unusually good views of Pale-legged Leaf Warbler, Puff-throated Babbler, White-crested Laughingthrush, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Siberian Blue Robin, and Van Hasselt’s Sunbird.

Another early start was required, in order to reach the seasonally inundated Pralay Grasslands, in the Tonle Sap floodplain near Kompong Thom, soon after dawn. Upon arrival, a  team of guides led us directly to a good area for the much-wanted Bengal Florican and, in no time at all, we were getting great flight and perched views of at least four different males. After flushing and getting good flight views of several Common Buttonquails, another grassland specialist, we moved on to another area, where a family of three Sarus Cranes graced our binoculars. Other noteworthy species in the grasslands were Knob-billed Duck, Oriental Pratincole, Oriental Skylark, Striated Grassbird, Bluethroat, Red Avadavat and Red-throated Pipit.

We drove north-westwards to the ibis haven of Tmatboey in remote Preah Vihear province, where we had two full days and an afternoon to find all of our targets. In the afternoon we were taken to a roosting location for the Critically Endangered White-shouldered Ibis and enjoyed scope views of three birds. The next morning, we were on a forest trail well before sunrise, with our local guides escorting us to a makeshift blind. Remaining concealed as the day broke, we were able to observe a pair of amazing, and also Critically Endangered Giant Ibises attend their simple nest with two well-grown young. Our two primary targets under-the-belt, we focused the remainder of our time in this wonderful location on finding as many other good birds as possible. A few of us were lucky enough to get onto a rare Pale-capped Pigeon at one secluded spot, while in another area we were shown a female White-rumped Falcon on a nest, with two different males in attendance. Brown Fish, and Spotted and Brown Wood Owls were both seen very well in daytime, the latter with two large fledged young, and we also enjoyed Chinese Francolin, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon at a nest, Savanna Nightjar, another five White-shouldered Ibises, with some of our closest ever views, nesting Rufous-winged Buzzard, Yellow-crowned, Rufous-bellied, Great Slaty, White-bellied and Black-headed Woodpeckers (the latter all too briefly), Blossom-headed Parakeet, Common Woodshrike and White-browed Fantail at nests with young, Burmese Shrike, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Indochinese Bush Lark, Brown Prinia, Velvet-fronted and Burmese Nuthatches, and Purple Sunbird.

From Tmatboey, we drove eastwards to our final Cambodian destination of Kratie, on the Mekong River. By mid-afternoon, we were at Kampi, to the north of town, where we boarded boats in order to explore the Mekong River channel and islands. Our target bird here was the regionally endemic Mekong Wagtail, and it wasn’t too long before we spotted our first. Manoeuvring the boats carefully – difficult with the firm current – we were able to get nice views, and at least seven were counted in total. Moving back towards shore then enabled us to experience the other main attraction in this area, an inland population of rare Irrawaddy Dolphins, one of the last along the Mekong. Nice looks at about ten individuals were had, including one or two small youngsters. A few other highlights along the river here, and in Kratie, included a few Small Pratincoles, Osprey, Grey-throated Martin, and Golden-bellied Gerygone.

From Kratie we had a pretty long drive to Phnom Penh airport, where we said goodbye to Naran and our Cambodian drivers, before boarding a plane for the short flight to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, where we settled-in at a nice hotel for the night.

Another predawn start took us west along the Mekong River to Ban Nasang, where we hoped to find the very localized Jerdon’s Bush Chat. Fortunately, the river channel was looking in fairly good shape this year, and it wasn’t long before our first male Jerdon’s popped up, and then another, as well as a female, and we were all able to get lengthy, though somewhat distant scope views of at least seven birds. From the same position, we were also able to see Indian Spot-billed Duck (including a female with three small young), River Lapwing, Small Pratincole, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, the lovely Wire-tailed Swallow (though rather briefly), Grey-throated Martin, large numbers of Great Mynas, and a superb male Siberian Rubythroat.

From Ban Nasang, we headed straight for the limestone country of Ban Nahin, in north-central Laos, stopping for both breakfast and lunch along the way. We had the best part of a couple of days to bird the forested limestone, pinnacles and broadleaved evergreen forests of this interesting region, with our two main limestone-loving targets being the recently described Bare-faced Bulbul, and furtive Sooty Babbler. We had made very good time during the drive from Ban Nasang, so even before reaching our accommodation, we had time to go birding at a viewpoint overlooking prime limestone habitat. Amazingly, since our last visit, a superb modern boardwalk had been constructed, which allowed us to descend into the otherwise inaccessible limestone pinnacle habitat. Here, we enjoyed by far our best ever views of both the bulbul and babbler, at point-blank range. Himalayan Swiftlets of the local rogersi form, a singing Green-backed Tit, and nice views of several Laos Langurs capped things off nicely and we headed for the guest house, where we were treated to some excellent cooking throughout our stay.

We started the next day exploring remaining lowland forest close to Konglor Cave. The caves are a major tourist attraction, but it was sad to see the lowland forest disappearing before our eyes. The best birds that we could muster were Cook’s Swift, White-browed Piculet, Great Iora, Radde’s Warbler, Buff-breasted Babbler, Plain Flowerpecker, Purple-naped Spiderhunter, and Crimson Sunbird. The remainder of our stay at Ban Nahin was spent exploring the trail to Namsanam Waterfall, where we added Jerdon’s Baza, Silver-backed Needletail, and Sultan Tit.

It was a rather slow end to the tour, but this certainly did not detract our thoughts from the wonderfully successful time we had already had, as  we made our way back to Vientiane Airport and bid farewell to South-East Asia.


Top five birds of the main tour

1st    Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo

2nd   Giant Ibis

3rd    Bare-faced Bulbul

4th    White-shouldered Ibis

5th    Bar-bellied Pitta


Top five birds of the pre-tour extension

1st    Chestnut-headed Partridge

2nd   Cambodian Laughingthrush

3rd    ‘Cambodian’ Streaked Wren-Babbler

4th    Wreathed Hornbill

5th    Pileated Gibbon



Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g., it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

The species names and taxonomy used in the bird list follows Gill, F., Donsker, D., & Rasmussen, P.(Eds). 2024. IOC World Bird List (v14.1).

Where the subspecies seen is/are known, these are often given in parentheses at the end of the species comment.



Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica

Knob-billed Duck (Comb D) Sarkidiornis melanotos A total of 63 logged.

Cotton Pygmy Goose Nettapus coromandelianus Around 50 at Prek Toal.

Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha Widespread. Female with 3+ chicks at Ban Nasang.

Chestnut-headed Partridge ◊ Arborophila cambodiana Endemic. 2 seen Phnom Aural; others heard. Good views.

Silver Pheasant Lophura nycthemera  A leader-only male at Aural. Near-endemic lewisi.

Siamese FirebackLophura diardi  A male and four females at Changkran Roy Community Forest. Amazing views.

Green-legged Partridge Tropicoperdix chloropus Two seen at Changkran Roy, and another heard.

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus

Chinese FrancolinFrancolinus pintadeanus Just one seen at Tmatboey.

Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis Heard-only. On the way up to Aural.

Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis One seen well at Tmatboey.

Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata

Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris Good numbers of rogersi at Ban Nahin.

Germain’s Swiftlet Aerodramus germani Widespread in Cambodia; since the introduction of swiftlet nest factories.

Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis 10+ along the trail to Namsanam Waterfall, Laos.

Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis

Cook’s Swift ◊ Apus cooki Four at Konglor Cave, Laos.

House Swift Apus nipalensis

Bengal Florican Houbaropsis bengalensis Four superb males at Pralay Grasslands.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis

Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis

Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo ◊ Carpococcyx renauldi Awesome views of one at Changkran Roy.

Green-billed Malkoha Rhopodytes tristis

Chestnut-winged Cuckoo ◊ Clamator coromandus Heard-only. Changkran Roy.

Asian Koel (Common K) Eudynamys scolopaceus

Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus

Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii

Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus

Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus Heard-only.

Rock Dove (introduced) (R Pigeon) Columba livia

Pale-capped Pigeon ◊ Columba punicea One was well seen by some of us at Tmatboey.

Red Turtle Dove (R Collared-d) Streptopelia tranquebarica

Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis

Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall Heard-only. Phnom Aural.

Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica

Zebra Dove Geopelia striata

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicinctus

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus One flushed from a nest with 1+ eggs at Tmatboey.

Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicauda Two seen at Aural.

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea

Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia

Grey-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus

Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca Heard-only.

Watercock Gallicrex cinerea

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

Sarus Crane Antigone antigone A family of three at Pralay Grasslands.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Common Buttonquail (Small B) Turnix sylvaticus At least four were flushed at Pralay Grasslands.

Buttonquail Turnix sp. One flushed at Tmatboey.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Six at Ban Nasang, on the Mekong River.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus

Black-tailed Godwit (Eastern B-t G) Limosa [limosa] melanuroides

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum

Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Eight at Kratie & Kampi, Cambodia, and ten at Ban Nasang, Laos.

Brown-headed Gull Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus Non-leader.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida

Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Abundant in Cambodia. c.120 en route in Laos.

Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus Scattered sightings totalling 24 birds.

Greater AdjutantLeptoptilos dubius Just three soaring at Prek Toal.

Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Seen breeding at Prek Toal; many nests with well grown young.

Milky StorkMycteria leucocephala At least two were picked out soaring at Prek Toal.

Asian Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Five at Tmatboey.

Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster

Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger

Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus

White-shouldered IbisPseudibis davisoni Eight of these Critically Endangered ibises at Tmatboey.

Giant IbisPseudibis gigantea A pair at a nest with two well-grown young at Tmatboey. Also critically endangered.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis

Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus

Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis Three flushed at Prek Toal.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Striated Heron Butorides striata

Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus A common winter visitor throughout Cambodia.

Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa Non-leader. One in breeding plumage at Prek Toal.

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Great Egret (Eastern G E) Ardea [alba] modesta

Medium Egret Egretta intermedia

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Spot-billed PelicanPelecanus philippensis A total of at least 250 in Cambodia.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus One at Kampi, Cambodia.

Black-winged Kite  Elanus caeruleus

Crested Honey Buzzard (Oriental H-b) Pernis ptilorhynchus

Jerdon’s Baza Aviceda jerdoni Singles at Aural, Prek Toal and Ban Nahin.

Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes Several at Angkor Wat.

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela

Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis Several at Phnom Aural.

Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii One at Aural.

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis Several sightings at Phnom Aural.

Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus

Shikra Accipiter badius

Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus

Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus

Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus Two at Prek Toal.

Rufous-winged BuzzardButastur liventer Frequently encountered in the Tmatboey area.

Collared Owlet Taenioptynx brodiei One seen and many heard at Phnom Aural.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama Four at Pursat Grasslands.

Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Heard-only.

Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus Heard-only.

Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis Nice scope views of one at Tmatboey.

Spotted Wood Owl  Strix seloputo A single roosting individual scoped at Tmatboey.

Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica A family of 4 at Tmatboey, with 2 fledged young. Heard at Aural.

Orange-breasted Trogon  Harpactes oreskios One seen at Aural, and others heard.

Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus Ditto.

Eurasian Hoopoe (Common H) Upupa epops

Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis Just five logged at Aural.

Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris

Wreathed Hornbill Rhyticeros undulatus 16 seen at Aural.

Indochinese Roller Coracias affinis

Banded Kingfisher  Lacedo pulchella Great views of a male at Phnom Aural.

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni

Asian Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti

Lineated Barbet Psilopogon lineata

Green-eared Barbet  Psilopogon faiostricta Heard-only. Changkran Roy.

Moustached Barbet  Psilopogon incognita Several seen at Aural; heard at Ban Nahin.

Blue-eared Barbet Psilopogon duvaucelii

Coppersmith Barbet Psilopogon haemacephala

White-browed Piculet ◊ Sasia ochracea One seen well at Konglor Cave.

Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Yungipicus canicapillus

Yellow-crowned WoodpeckerLeiopicus mahrattensis One seen nicely at Tmatboey; quite a scarce woodpecker.

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus A smart male at Tmatboey (localized resident annamensis).

White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis A corker at Tmatboey.

Greater Yellownape Chrysophlegma flavinucha

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus

Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus

Black-headed WoodpeckerP. erythropygius Just one, rather fleetingly, at Tmatboey.

Common Flameback Dinopium javanense

Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus

Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus

Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus One at Tmatboey.

White-rumped Falcon Neohierax insignis At Tmatboey, an occupied nest attended by a female and two males.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Non-leader.

Blossom-headed ParakeetPsittacula roseata Only 11 logged at Tmatboey.

Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria Two at Ta Prohm, and several at Tmatboey.

Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis

Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae Two at Phnom Aural. Always a pleasure.

Silver-breasted Broadbill Serilophus lunatus Rather elusive at Phnom Aural, with several noted.

Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus Seen and heard at Changkran Roy.

Blue PittaHydrornis cyaneus Reasonable views of one at Aural, and many heard.

Bar-bellied Pitta  Hydrornis elliotii A stunning male at Changkran Roy Community Forest.

Golden-bellied Gerygone Gerygone sulphurea Five in the Kratie to Kampi Pool area.

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus

Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatus

Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus A pair had a nest with 3+ well-grown young at Tmatboey.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia

Great Iora Aegithina lafresnayei Scattered throughout. Races xanthotis in Cambodia, and innotata in Laos.

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris Common at Phnom Aural (nassovicus).

Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus

Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus Three at Phnom Aural and one at Namsanam Waterfall Trail.

Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei

Black-winged Cuckooshrike Lalage melaschistos Heard-only. At base of Phnom Aural.

Indochinese CuckooshrikeLalage polioptera A couple seen, and others heard at Tmatboey.

White-browed Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus Not uncommon at Aural (nominate race).

White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca

Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus

Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis

Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus An occupied nest at Phnom Aural Upper Camp.

Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer Small numbers at Aural (endemic lefoli).

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus

Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus

Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus

Ashy Drongo (Sooty D) Dicrurus [leucophaeus] leucophaeus Common (bondi in Cambodia, mouhotiin Laos).

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola Small numbers at Tmatboey, including one at a nest with a single chick.

Malaysian Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea

Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone affinis

Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides Five at Tmatboey (nominate race).

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus

Eurasian Jay (White-faced J) Garrulus [glandarius] leucotis One in the lowland dry forest near Phnom Aural.

Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha

Indochinese Green MagpieCissa hypoleuca Heard-only. Incredibly illusive at Aural (hypoleuca).

Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia

Eastern Jungle Crow Corvus levaillantii

Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis

Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea A neat pair at Ban Nahin.

Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus A singing male at Ban Nahin. Part of an isolated lowland population.

Singing Bush Lark (Australasian B L) Mirafra javanica

Indochinese Bush Lark ◊ Mirafra erythrocephala

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula

Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus Frequent at Phnom Aural (cambodianus).

Puff-throated BulbulAlophoixus pallidus Best seen at Changkran Roy (khmerensis; heard in Laos (henrici).

Grey-eyed BulbulIole propinqua Scattered in forests throughout (simulator in Cambodia and nominate in Laos).

Mountain Bulbul (Southern M B) Ixos [mcclellandii] tickelli Common Aural (Cardamom canescens, with odd calls).

Black-headed Bulbul Brachypodius melanocephalos

Black-crested Bulbul Rubigula flaviventris

Bare-faced BulbulNok hualon Endemic. Best ever views (six) at Ban Nahin. Only formally described in 2009.

Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi A common regional endemic.

Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni

Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier

Sooty-headed Bulbul (Southern S-h B) Pycnonotus aurigaster Common and widespread Cambodia (germani).

Sand Martin (Common S M) Riparia riparia

Grey-throated Martin  Riparia chinensis Quite a few along the Mekong in both Cambodia and Laos.

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Two at Ban Nasang.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica

Striated Swallow Cecropis striolata

Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus

Radde’s Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi

Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus

Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus

Pale-legged Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tenellipes Best seen at Changkran Roy, coming to drink and bath.

Sulphur-breasted Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus ricketti Small numbers were vocal at Aural Upper Camp.

Davison’s Leaf Warbler (White-tailed L-w) P. intensior Several at Phnom Aural (range-restricted nominate).

Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis

Manchurian Reed WarblerAcrocephalus tangorum Two seen well, and others heard at Pursat Grasslands.

Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler (Rusty-rumped W) Helopsaltes certhiola A couple showed quite well near Oudong.

Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata Heard-only.

Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris

Zitting Cisticola (Double Z C) Cisticola [juncidis] tinnabulans Frequent in Cambodia (nominate).

Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-h C) Cisticola exilis

Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa A few seen at Tmatboey.

Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens Heard-only.

Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii

Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis

Cambodian TailorbirdOrthotomus chaktomuk Three seen well near Oudong.

Indochinese Yuhina ◊ (Chestnut-collared Y) Staphida torqueola Heard-only. Konglor Cave.

Swinhoe’s White-eye Zosterops simplex A dozen at Ban Nahin.

Hume’s White-eye ◊ Zosterops simplex Small numbers at Phnom Aural Upper Camp.

Pin-striped Tit-Babbler Mixornis gularis

White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps Several at Aural (klossi).

Large Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos Heard-only. A couple at Aural.

Sooty BabblerStachyris herberti Near-endemic. Easily seen this year, with around 16 at Ban Nahin Limestone.

Chinese Grassbird Graminicola striatus Brilliant views of three at Pursat Grasslands; eventually very confiding.

Scaly-crowned Babbler (Indochinese B) Malacopteron [cinereum] indochinense Three seen well at Aural.

Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps Best seen from hides at Changkran Roy.

Buff-breasted Babbler Pellorneum tickelli

Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti Heard-only. Changkran Roy.

Streaked Wren-Babbler (Cambodian S W-B) Napothera [brevicaudata] griseigularis Small numbers at Aural.

Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger Multiple sightings at Phnom Aural (Indochinese mouhoti).

White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus

Cambodian Laughingthrush  G. ferrarius Two groups of 4 located at Phnom Aural, and eventually seen very well.

Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis

Burmese Nuthatch (Neglected N) Sitta neglecta One seen very well at Tmatboey.

Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa

Great Myna (White-vented M) Acridotheres grandis

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

Vinous-breasted Starling (V-b Myna)Acridotheres [burmannicus] leucocephalus Just three briefly at Tmatboey.

Black-collared Starling Gracupica nigricollis

Siamese Pied Myna  Gracupica floweri A total of ten logged, including a pair collecting nest material near Oudong.

Green Cochoa  Cochoa viridis Heard-only. At Phnom Aural.

Dark-sided Thrush  Zoothera marginata One seen and another heard, by Craig, near Aural Upper Camp.

Orange-headed Thrush Geokichla citrina Two near the Upper Camp at Phnom Aural.

Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis

White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus

Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica

Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus

Hainan Blue FlycatcherCyornis hainanus Sightings throughout.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica

Siberian Rubythroat Calliope calliope Brilliant views of a male at Ban Nasang.

Blue Whistling Thrush (Yellow-billed W T) Myophonus [caeruleus] flavirostris

Siberian Blue Robin Larvivora cyane

Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula mugimaki One or two at Aural Upper Camp.

Taiga Flycatcher (Red-throated F) Ficedula albicilla

Blue Rock Thrush (Eastern B R T) Monticola [solitarius] philippensis Non-leader.

Jerdon’s Bush Chat ◊ Saxicola jerdoni No fewer than seven noted at Ban Nasang, Laos, where it breeds.

Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata

Amur Stonechat Saxicola stejnegeri

Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis

Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons

Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum One during the decent from Phnom Aural.

Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum minullum

Cambodian FlowerpeckerDicaeum cambodianum Near-endemic. A few seen well at Aural. Recently split.

Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum

Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis

Van Hasselt’s Sunbird Leptocoma brasiliana A lovely male at Changkran Roy.

Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus

Ornate Sunbird Cinnyris ornatus Recently split from Olive-backed.

Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata A pair at Konglor Cave, Laos (petersi).

Crimson Sunbird (Greater C S) Aethopyga [siparaja] seheriae Several beauties; Aural & near Ban Nahin (mangini).

Purple-naped Spiderhunter Kurochkinegramma hypogrammicum

Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra

Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

Plain-backed SparrowPasser flaveolus

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Asian Golden WeaverPloceus hypoxanthus Many excellent active colonies found near Oudong.

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata

White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata

Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla

Red Avadavat Amandava amandava

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Eastern Yellow Wagtail (Manchurian W) Motacilla [tschutschensis] macronyx

White Wagtail (Amur W) Motacilla [alba] leucopsis

Mekong WagtailMotacilla samveasnae Near-endemic. At least seven at Kampi, near Kratie.

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni

Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus



Yellow-throated MartenMartes flavigula One for Naran and the group at Tmatboey.

Irrawaddy Dolphin Orcaella brevirostris About ten at Kampi, near Kratie, including some youngsters.

Exotic Roundleaf Bat Hipposideros gentilis The most likely ID for the small dimorphic bats at Angkor. 200+.

Black-bearded Tomb Bat Taphozous melanopogon 60 or so at Angkor.

Northern Treeshrew Tupaia belangeri Seen well at Changkran Roy.

Long-tailed Macaque (Crab-eating M) Macaca fascicularis

Germain’s Langur (Indochinese Leaf Monkey) Trachypithecus germaini Seven at Prek Toal.

Laos Langur Trachypithecus laotum Around seven at the Ban Nahin Limestone.

Pileated Gibbon Nomascus pileatus Great views of a young male at Phnom Aural, where many others heard.

Finlayson’s Squirrel (Variable S) Callosciurus finlaysonii 5 anellatus in Cambodia, 1 reddish menamicusin Laos.

Red-cheeked Flying Squirrel Hylopetes spadiceus One at Phnom Aural.

Indian Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista philippensis One at Phnom Aural.

Indochinese Ground Squirrel  Menetes berdmorei Seen well at Changkran Roy.

Maritime Striped Squirrel (Eastern S S) Tamiops maritimus Three seen in the Ban Nahin area.

Cambodian Striped Squirrel Tamiops rodolphei

Brown Rat (introduced) Rattus norvegicus



Common Mime Swallowtail Papilio clytia Changkran Roy.

Tailed Jay Graphium agamemnon Aural.

Lesser Zebra Graphium macareus Ban Nahin.

Spot Swordtail Graphium nomius Ban Nahin.

Psyche Leptosia nina Widespread.

Lemon Migrant Catopsilia pomona Ban Nahin.

Orange Migrant Catopsilia scylla Ban Nahin.

Painted Jezebel Delias hyparete Prek Toal.

Yellow Orange Tip Ixias pyrene Ban Nahin.

Indian Cabbage White Pieris canidia Ban Nahin.

Common Ciliate Blue Anthene emolus Tmatboey.

Dull Oakblue Arhopala centaurus Tmatboey.

Tailless Disc Oakblue Arhopala epimuta Konglor Cave.

Straight Pierrot Caleta roxus Aural.

Common Pierrot Castalius rosimon Aural.

Gram Blue Euchrysops cnejus Tmatboey.

Common Brownie Miletus chinensis Aural.

Common Tit Hypolycaena erylus Aural.

Pea Blue Lampides boeticus

White Imperial Neomyrina hiemalis Tmatboey.

Tailless Lineblue Prosotas dubiosa Aural, Tmatboey.

Common Lineblue Prosotas nora Aural.

Little Tiger Blue Tarucus balkanica Ban Nahin.

Many-tailed Oakblue Thaduka multicaudata Ban Nahin.

Branded Yamfly Yasoda tripunctata Aural.

Fluffy Tit Zeltus amasa Changkran Roy.

Tiny Grass Blue Zizula hylax

Green Dragontail Lamproptera meges Aural.

Common Plum Judy Abisara echerius Aural.

Tailed Judy Abisara neophron Aural.

Rustic Cupha erymanthis Aural.

Common Mapwing Cyrestis thyodamas Ban Nahin.

Redspot Duke Dophla evelina Tmatboey.

Magpie Crow Euploea radamanthus Ban Nahin.

Knight Lebadea martha Aural.

Blue-spotted Archduke Lexias albopunctata Ban Nahin.

Commander Moduza procris Aural.

White-bar Bushbrown Mycalesis anaxias Aural.

Smooth-eyed Bushbrown Orsotriaena medus Ban Nahin.

Cruiser Vindula erota

Peacock Pansy Junonia almana

Grey Pansy Junonia atlites

Chocolate Pansy Junonia iphita

Lemon Pansy Junonia lemonias

Blue Pansy Junonia orithya

Common Earl Tanaecia julii Aural.

Chocolate Demon Ancistroides nigrita Aural.

Forest Hopper Astictopterus jama Tmatboey.

Chestnut Bob Iambrix salsala Tmatboey, Konglor Cave.

Chestnut-banded Angle Odontoptilum angulata Changkran Roy.

Dusky Partwing Psolos fuligo Aural.



Darkie Euphaea masoni Aural.

Green Metalwing Neurobasis chinensis Konglor Cave.

Plain Flashwing Vestalis gracilis Changkran Roy.

Magentabacked Jewel Heliocypha biforata Changkran Roy.

Golden Gem Libellago lineata Changkran Roy.

Blue Bush Dart Copera vittata Aural.

Forest Damsel Coeliccia poungyi Ban Nahin.

Black Threadtail Prodasineura autumnalis Changkran Roy.

Look-alike Sprite Pseudagrion australasiae Changkran Roy.

Orange-faced Sprite Pseudagrion rubriceps Changkran Roy.

Black-kneed Featherleg Pseudocopera ciliata Changkran Roy.

Common Flangetail Ictinogomphus decoratus Changkran Roy, Tmatboey.

Oriental Blue Dasher Brachydiplax chalybea

Ditch Jewel Brachythemis contaminata

Scarlet Skimmer Crocothemis servilia

Chalky Percher Diplacodes trivialis

Sapphire Flutterer Rhyothemis triangularis Changkran Roy.

Common Parasol Neurothemis fluctuans

Russet Percher Neurothemis fulvia

Paddyfield Parasol Neurothemis intermedia

Pied Paddy Skimmer Neurothemis tullia

Brown-backed Red Marsh Hawk Orthetrum chrysis

Blue Marsh Hawk Orthetrum glaucum

Slender Skimmer Orthetrum sabina

Swampwatcher Potamarcha congener Tmatboey.

Banded Skimmer Pseudothemis jorina Tmatboey.

Yellow-striped Flutterer Rhyothemis phyllis Changkran Roy.

Crimson Marsh Glider Trithemis aurora Changkran Roy.

Dancing Dropwing Trithemis pallidinervis

Scarlet Basker Urothemis signata Changkran Roy.



Golden Tree Snake Chrysopelea ornata Oudong Temple.

Bronze Mabuya Eutropis macularia Tmatboey.

Line-spotted Forest Skink Sphenomorphus lineopunctulatus Changkran Roy.

Spotted Forest Skink Sphenomorphus maculatus Aural.

Tockay Gecko Gekko gecko Widespread locations.

Asian House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus

Garden Fence Lizard Calotes versicolor Several locations (adults and a juvenile).



Brown Tree Frog Polypedates megacephalus Siem Reap.



Dendrobium chrysotoxum Konglor Cave, Laos.

Vanda lilacina Tmatboey.