MEXICO’S YUCATAN PENINSULA – endemics and great birding in the Land of the Mayas

PRICE INFORMATION

Birdquest Inclusions: Our tour prices include surface transportation, accommodations, meals and entrance fees.

We also include all tipping for local guides, drivers and accommodation/restaurant staff.

Deposit: 20% of the total tour price. Our office will let you know what deposit amount is due, in order to confirm your booking, following receipt of your online booking form.

TO BOOK THIS TOUR: Click here (you will need the tour dates)

The single supplement will not apply if you indicate on booking that you prefer to share a room and there is a room-mate of the same sex available.

This tour is priced in US Dollars. Amounts shown in other currencies are indicative.

Air Travel To & From The Tour: Our in-house IATA ticket agency will be pleased to arrange your air travel on request, or you may arrange this yourself if you prefer.

MEXICO’S YUCATAN PENINSULA BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY

Yucatan: Day 1  Our tour begins this evening on the island of Cozumel, situated just off the northeast coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, where we will spend two nights.

(You can fly in today from Mexico City. Airport transfers will be provided as long as you arrive between late morning and afternoon.)

Yucatan: Day 2  Although well known to the Mayas, who called it ‘Island of Swallows’, little remains of their influence on Cozumel now. A low-lying island surrounded by emerald seas and covered in dense scrub and woodland, this was Hernando Cortés’s choice of a base from which to launch his conquest of this region of Mexico. Nowadays, Cozumel is very much a tourist resort, although fortunately, it lacks the tackiness of the much larger Cancun across the water and remains a pleasant backwater favoured by scuba divers (for its reefs are some of the finest in the Caribbean) and more discerning sun-seekers.

For birders, Cozumel is a very easy and productive spot, with a mixture of habitats ranging from coastal beaches, lagoons and mangroves to low woodland and large, overgrown pastures. No fewer than four endemic species inhabit the island, and from about September to April many winter visitors from North America are present.

During the autumn months, Cozumel has occasionally been struck by hurricanes, as have so many coastal areas in the region. Severe hurricanes in the 1980s and early 21st century appear to have wiped out the endemic Cozumel Thrasher, which was formerly a common species on the island. The other endemic birds on the island fared better: Cozumel Emerald, Cozumel Wren and Cozumel Vireo are not uncommon in the shrubby woodlands that cover much of the island.

We will also explore the woodland and weedy pastures for such Yucatan endemics or regional endemics as Yucatan Amazon, Yucatan Nightjar, Yucatan Flycatcher, Black Catbird, Yucatan Vireo and Rose-throated Tanager, and species largely restricted to Caribbean islands such as White-crowned Pigeon, Caribbean Dove, Smooth-billed Ani (uncommon), Caribbean Elaenia and the Cozumel form of the Western Spindalis, a potential split.

In a marshy area, we will make a special effort to get good views of the endearing Ruddy Crake (another regional endemic), as well as Grey-crowned Yellowthroat.

We should also encounter Magnificent Frigatebird, Royal Tern, Mangrove Cuckoo, Pauraque, Green-breasted Mango, Bright-rumped Attila, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Tropical Mockingbird, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher, Northern Parula, Yellow, Magnolia, Yellow-throated and Palm Warblers, Ovenbird, Northern Waterthrush, Common Yellowthroat, Bananaquit, Blue Grosbeak, Indigo Bunting and Yellow-faced Grassquit.

Yucatan: Day 3  After some final birding on Cozumel, we will cross to the mainland of Mexico and then drive to the small town of Río Lagartos on the north coast of the Yucatan Peninsula for a two-night stay.

As we head northwards the vegetation becomes drier and more stunted, which is characteristic of the very arid and often windswept northern coast of this huge peninsula.

Yucatan: Day 4  The extensive, mangrove-lined estuary and lagoons at Río Lagartos are known as the Ría Lagartos, and this area, combined with the extensive saltpans at nearby Las Coloradas, forms a paradise for waterbirds. Now well-protected, this is one of the most impressive wetland areas in all of Mexico and has become famous for its large flocks of flamingos in particular. The small town of Río Lagartos fronts onto the estuary, and some of the local fishermen have turned to guiding visiting birders. At dusk, there is a spectacular roost of cormorants, herons, egrets, ibises and spoonbills in the mangroves right opposite the town.

Before we enjoy the waterbird spectacle, we will track down two endemic species, which are restricted to the low scrub and woodland along the north coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, the attractive Mexican Sheartail and the noisy Yucatan Wren. Both are fairly easy to find in this area, as are the more widespread endemic Yucatan Bobwhite and Yucatan Woodpecker.

As we explore the farmland with its expanses of native scrub or wander through some relict forest patches amongst the mangroves, we should also come across Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Crane Hawk, Common Black Hawk, Northern Crested Caracara, Killdeer, Common Ground Dove, Olive-throated Parakeet, the wonderful Lesser Roadrunner, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Least and Vermilion Flycatchers, Tree Swallow, Mangrove Vireo, Scrub Euphonia, Northern Cardinal, Blue-black Grassquit, Red-winged and Melodious Blackbirds and Altamira Oriole.

The huge saltpans at Las Coloradas offer great birding. Several thousand American Flamingoes can be found here, and if we come across a big gathering the shimmering pink mass and regular lines of new arrivals flighting in will create quite an impression. Along the sandy shoreline, we will come across many Brown Pelicans, joining the gulls to see if there are titbits to pick up as the local fishermen bring their catches ashore. Laughing Gulls are numerous, and there are often one or two Kelp Gulls, American Herring Gulls and Lesser Black-backed Gulls present in the area, while Cabot’s Terns patrol just off the beach. Rather surprisingly, Zenaida Doves seem to love the beach area. This Caribbean island speciality only reaches the mainland in this part of Mexico. As we wander around the saltpans flocks of Double-crested and Neotropic Cormorants will fly past and we will come across a splendid variety of shorebirds, including Snowy and Semipalmated Plovers, American Oystercatcher, Black-necked Stilt, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Willet, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Spotted, Semipalmated, Western, Least and Stilt Sandpipers, and Short-billed Dowitcher. Ospreys, Caspian Terns and Forster’s Terns fish in the lagoons, Gull-billed Terns hunt for large insects and from time to time a wintering Peregrine Falcon puts the shorebird flocks to flight.

The Río Lagartos itself attracts American White Pelicans that fish in the wider reaches of the estuary, bizarre Black Skimmers resting on sandbars and Mangrove Swallows hawking insects over the waters. The main attractions of the mangrove-lined waterways are the large but secretive Bare-throated Tiger Heron and the strange, prehistoric-looking Boat-billed Heron (often considered a monotypic family). The former is impressive enough but the latter, as it stares at us with those enormous black eyes positioned over that incredible bill, is one of those birds that one remembers forever! Here too we can expect to see Great Blue, Little Blue, Tricolored and Green Herons, Great, Snowy and Reddish Egrets, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, White Ibis and the lovely Roseate Spoonbill. The localized Rufous-necked Wood Rail and Clapper Rail occur in these mangroves and with a bit of luck, we will see both.

Yucatan: Day 5  After some final birding at Río Lagartos,  we will travel westwards to the Dzilam de Bravo area, which is a good area for the perky endemic Yucatan Gnatcatcher.

Afterwards, we head for the town of Valladolid, where we will spend the night.

Yucatan: Day 6  Today, we will set off early so that we can visit the famous archaeological site of Chichén Itzá before it gets hot and crowded. Chichén Itzá is the most famous, best preserved and most visited Mayan site in Central America, and for good reason: this is one of those world-class archaeological sites that even the most focussed birders are impressed by! Chichén Itzá reached the zenith of its power and wealth between 800-1000 AD before being abandoned in the 14th century. Dominating the huge plaza is the impressive Pyramid of Kukulcán (also known as El Castillo), which is built with 91 steps on each side, and a single step at the main entrance to the temple on its summit platform, making a total of 365, exactly the same as the number of days in a year.

We will have time to see some of the other buildings as well, notably the strange ‘Ball-Court’. The rules of the game and its purpose remain obscure, but at some period in the city’s history, they seemed to involve the human sacrifice of either the losing or the winning team, or at least their captain!

The site is also a good place to find Turquoise-browed Motmot and the albinucha form of the Carolina Wren, sometimes split as White-browed Wren.

After our visit to this wonderful place, we will travel southwards to Calakmul for a three-night stay.

Yucatan: Days 7-8  The famous Mayan site of Calakmul was discovered by biologist Cyrus Lundell in 1931 and is situated in the 2800 square mile (7200 square km) Calakmul Biosphere Reserve in the Mexican state of Campeche, deep in the jungles of the greater Petén Basin region, about 18 miles (30km) from the Guatemalan border. Calakmul, the ‘City of the Two Adjacent Pyramids’, was a major Maya superpower within the northern Petén region. An amazing 6,750 ancient structures have been identified, the largest of which is the Great Pyramid. It is estimated to have had a population of 50,000 people in its halcyon days.

The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, the largest tropical forest reserve in Mexico, is a treasure trove of Mayan history in the heart of the Maya Forest, and our visit will be one of the highlights of the tour. The remarkable Ocellated Turkey is commonly encountered, and single birds or even parties often almost block the entrance road! This close relative of the better-known North American Wild Turkey only occurs in the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico and adjacent Guatemala and Belize. In most of its range, this species has become very wary due to hunting, but here these spectacular birds have become completely fearless.

Another major target is the delightful Great Curassow, widely hunted elsewhere but still fairly tame here. The males display their unique curly hairdo, and two different morphs of the females could be encountered.

As dawn breaks and the forest awakens, one of the first birds to become active is the impressive Ivory-billed Woodcreeper whose calls permeate the gloom of first light. Lesson’s Motmots follow close behind, and flocks of Yucatan Amazons vocalize from the huge trees surrounding the plaza. Bat Falcons hunt from exposed perches, and sometimes, the elusive Collared Forest Falcon splits the air with its early morning calls.

Fruiting trees around the ruins often attract huge Crested Guans, colourful Emerald Toucanets, Collared Aracaris, Keel-billed Toucans, Masked Tityras, Ochre-bellied Flycatchers, and gorgeous Black-cowled and Baltimore Orioles. The large red flowers of exotic African Tulip Trees host a variety of hummingbirds including Rufous-tailed and Ruby-throated Hummingbirds, Canivet’s Emerald and the regionally endemic White-bellied Emerald.

The entrance road to the ruins passes through untouched primary forest providing some very productive early morning birding. Overhead, the huge forest trees are inhabited by Gartered and Collared Trogons, Smoky-brown, Golden-olive and Chestnut-colored Woodpeckers, as well as the huge Pale-billed Woodpecker (whose ‘double knock’ drum will soon become a familiar sound). Unobtrusive Red-billed Pigeons feed on ripening Cecropia fruit. Above the canopy, Vaux’s Swifts wheel around. The Yucatan peninsula form may represent a distinct species. As the sun warms the air, raptors make an appearance, sometimes including Bicolored and Zone-tailed Hawks. Tiny regionally endemic White-bellied Wrens and White-breasted Wood Wrens skulk around the roots of fallen trees, uttering their beautiful song, while other forest inhabitants include Squirrel Cuckoo, the uncommon Blue-black Grosbeak and the secretive Green-backed Sparrow. Shy Mayan Antthrushes (a regional endemic) creep around on the forest floor while regional-endemic Yellow-winged Tanagers usually keep to the treetops. The mixed-species flocks often contain Olivaceous Woodcreepers, Long-billed Gnatwrens and Tawny-crowned Greenlets.

If we are fortunate, we will find an army ant swarm with its attendant followers. The birds are often so engrossed in taking insects flushed by the marauding ants that they are oblivious to observers and allow a close approach. The most usual species found at these events include Ivory-billed, Tawny-winged, Ruddy and Northern Barred Woodcreepers, striking Grey-headed Tanagers and both Red-crowned and Red-throated Ant Tanagers, and Yellow-billed Cacique.

The forest also holds a wide array of tyrant flycatchers, which include Northern Bentbill, Yellow-olive and Eye-ringed Flatbills, Greenish Elaenia, Tropical Royal Flycatcher and Tropical Pewee.

At this season, there are also good numbers of winter visitors to southern Mexico from further north, including Great Crested Flycatcher, Wood Thrush, Yellow-throated and Red-eyed Vireos, Blue-winged, Worm-eating, Kentucky and Hooded Warblers, and possibly Louisiana Waterthrush.

After dark, we will go looking for Northern Potoo, Middle American Screech Owl and Mottled Owl.

Groups of Yucatan Black Howler and agile Geoffroy’s Spider Monkeys are regular visitors to the fruiting trees near the plaza, while along the entrance road, we could encounter Central American Agouti. White-nosed Coati, Collared Peccary, White-tailed Deer or even Mexican Red Brocket Deer.

We will also visit the famous Volcan de los Murcielagos (the Volcano of the Bats), a sinkhole from which, at dusk, emerge hundreds of thousands of bats. Swirling clouds of Broad-eared (or Broad-tailed) Bats fly high away to distant feeding areas while smaller species of the genus Pteronotus remain low within the woodland. Short-tailed and White-tailed Hawks, Bat Falcons and Barn Owls often hang around to try and pick off their dinners as the stream of bats literally darkens the sky.

Yucatan: Day 9  After some early morning birding at Calakmul, we will return northwards to Felipe Carillo Puerto for an overnight stay. We will spend the afternoon birding the surrounding area.

Felipe Carrillo Puerto is situated not far from the huge Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, and we shall bird along the excellent access road to the reserve, which passes through a large tract of primary and secondary forest with varying levels of human disturbance.

Here, we should come across Plain Chachalacas calling from high in the trees while White-fronted Amazons and big Black-headed Saltators create a cacophony. As we wander along the road, enjoying the easy birding conditions it provides, we will be looking out in particular for the endemic Yucatan Jay and Orange Oriole and regional endemics such as Wedge-tailed Sabrewing and the stunning little Grey-throated Chat.

Other birds likely to be seen in this rewarding area include Roadside Hawk, Buff-bellied Hummingbird, Black-headed Trogon, Lineated Woodpecker, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Northern Tropical Pewee, Great Kiskadee, Couch’s Kingbird, Rose-throated Becard, Brown Jay, Spot-breasted Wren, Grey Catbird, White-eyed Vireo, Lesser Greenlet, the handsome Blue Bunting, Morelet’s Seedeater, Orchard and Hooded Orioles, and the striking Yellow-backed Oriole.

After dark, we will look for the rather elusive endemic Yucatan Poorwill and have another chance for the cute Middle American Screech Owl.

Yucatan: Day 10  After some final birding in the Felipe Carillo Puerto area, we will drive to Cancún airport where our tour ends late this afternoon.