BARROW (UTQIAĞVIK), ALASKA: ROSS’S GULL MIGRATION AND POLAR BEAR SPECIAL

BARROW (UTQIAĞVIK), ALASKA: ROSS’S GULL MIGRATION & POLAR BEAR SPECIAL: OVERVIEW

Birdquest’s Barrow, Alaska: Ross’s Gull Migration & Polar Bear Special birding tours provide an opportunity to witness something truly special, the annual migration  of the rare, beautiful and much sought-after Ross’s Gull from northeastern Siberia into the Beaufort Sea to the north of Alaska.

Some 50,000 of these supremely beautiful, elegant little gulls nest in the high Arctic, mostly in Northeastern Siberia (with just a few nesting in western Siberia and Arctic Canada). The Northeast Siberian birds nest in tundra bogs not far from the Arctic Ocean, and after the breeding season is over, they head north into the ocean, reaching as far north as the ice front. Later in the year, from late September to mid-October, they migrate westwards through the Chukchi Sea to the Beaufort Sea to the north of Alaska and the northwest Canadian Arctic. From around mid-October to mid-November, they return westwards and pass into the Bering Sea and the Sea of Okhotsk to winter around the pack ice.

During this annual migration, large numbers of Ross’s Gulls pass by Point Barrow, the northernmost point in Alaska and indeed the United States of America. Visiting the remote town of Barrow (now renamed Utqiağvik, which is spoken with an almost silent g, by its Inuit inhabitants) is the only practical way to observe this amazing spectacle of flocks of pink gulls passing by, often very close to the shore. What an extraordinary sight that is, as the birds often stop to feed in the surf, diving down to snatch small fish or marine invertebrates. One of the planet’s most amazing migrations!

However, the migration spectacle is often weather-related, seemingly closely correlated with northerly and easterly winds that likely push the migrating birds close to the coast. So a short stay at Barrow is, based on careful study of many years of records, a risky prospect. It is quite possible to have a 3-day period with very few gulls, or even none! For that reason, our Birdquest tour is longer than some other bird tours to Barrow. We don’t want to miss out on this amazing spectacle that requires travelling so far to see!

Another hugely appealing aspect of Point Barrow is the presence virtually every day at this time of year of Polar Bears! We will be visiting the point in specially adapted trucks (pickups) and we have a good chance of getting close encounters with these wonderful creatures that are now threatened by climate change. In October, the bears often feast on Bowhead Whale carcasses at the point, allowing a close approach by vehicle.

During late September and the first third of October, the Ivory Gull is only a rare visitor to the Barrow area, but by mid-October, it becomes fairly regular. In consequence, with our tour dates, we have a good chance of seeing one or more, although it is certainly not guaranteed. (By the last days of October and in November, Ivory Gulls are present most of the time at Barrow, but the days are very short and conditions are decidedly cold.)

There is only a limited selection of species still present in Barrow by mid-October. Common Eiders and King Eiders are still regular, and there is a good chance of seeing the sought-after Spectacled Eider (although most likely females rather than males). Long-tailed Ducks are also still around, and we could also encounter White-winged Scoter and perhaps one or two other waterfowl.

Glaucous Gulls are ubiquitous, and there are usually a few Iceland Gulls of the form thayeri (formerly split as Thayer’s Gull). Black-legged Kittiwakes migrate along the coast, and there may be a rarity or two around, such as American Herring Gull or Slaty-backed Gull.

Loon (diver) migration will largely be over, but we could well see Yellow-billed Loon and perhaps Pacific Loon. Shorebirds will be absent, other than a chance for some lingering Red (or Grey) Phalaropes.

It is a surprise to many to learn that huge numbers of Short-tailed Shearwaters (a species that breeds in Australia) spend the northern summer in the Bering, Chukchi and Beaufort Seas, and we may see some that have not yet returned south.

Passerine birds, other than a few Northern Ravens, are likely to have retreated south, but vagrants do occasionally turn up. There could be a lingering Snowy Owl or two around, but it depends on the year.

As well as the iconic Polar Bear, the cheeky little Arctic Fox, in its winter white, is a regular sight around Barrow, and we should also come across Spotted (or Largha) Seal and perhaps Bearded Seal. Even an occasional Walrus swims past the point!

Barrow/Utqiağvik is one of those Arctic tundra towns that you have to experience to understand what living at ‘The Top of the World’ is all about. Rough and ready, with unpaved, bumpy roads, a largely Inuit population, snow-covered tundra, frozen lakes, cold (but not yet Arctic winter) winds and all the rest. As with everything in the Arctic, hotels, food, vehicles and fuel are all wildly expensive.

All in all, an October visit to Barrow is one of those ‘weird and wonderful’ adventures that strongly appeal to a certain kind of birder! Are you one of them?

Accommodation & Transport

The hotel in Barrow (now renamed Utqiağvik) is comfortable and of fairly good quality (it is the best in town!), although room servicing levels can be under par. Roads are limited and unpaved. Transport is by minibus/passenger van.

Walking

The walking during our Barrow, Alaska: Ross’s Gull Migration & Polar Bear Special birding tours is minimal and easy.

Climate

Rather cold, but not Arctic winter conditions. Temperatures average around 0° to -6°C (32° to 23°F), although it can feel decidedly colder on windy days. There is usually little snowfall or rainfall, and conditions are mostly cloudy, although some sunshine is likely.

Bird Photography

Opportunities during our Barrow, Alaska: Ross’s Gull Migration & Polar Bear Special birding tours are fairly good, but feature a very limited suite of species. As well as Ross’s Gull and other birds, we could well have great Polar Bear and Arctic Fox encounters.