SULAWESI, MOROTAI & HALMAHERA TOUR REPORT 2025

10 September - 6 October 2025

Dave Farrow

This year, with a tour that varies from year to year due to weather, we were able to find most of our targets, seeing a total of 318 taxa including at least 130 endemics. In fact the only hardship we encountered was dealing with an avifauna where the taxonomy is up in the air and everything has several names! In the south of the country we saw Lompobattang Flycatcher and Leaf Warbler, Black-ringed White-eye, Piping Crow, Black-headed Kingfisher, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, and Javan Plover. In the montane forests of Lore Lindu we saw Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Cinnabar Boobook, Red-eared Fruit Dove, Yellow-cheeked Lorikeets, ‘Lore Lindu’ Scaly Kingfisher, Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk, Barred Honey Buzzard, Hylocitrea, Maroon-backed Whistler, Great Shortwing, Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Sulawesi Thrush and Malia. In the north of Sulawesi we saw Great-billed, Lilac, Sulawesi Dwarf, Green-backed and Scaly Kingfisher, Oberholser’s Fruit Dove, the incredible Maleo, Ochre-bellied Boobook, Great and Pygmy Hanging Parrots, Knobbed Hornbill, Isabelline Bush-hen, Blue-faced Rail, Purple-winged Roller, Sulawesi Pitta, Pied Cuckooshrike and Red-backed Thrush. On Morotai we saw the eponymous White-eye and Friarbird, plus the local ‘Morotai’ Spangled Drongo, while on Halmahera we did well with Moluccan Scrubfowl, Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar, Moluccan Brush Cuckoo, Sombre Kingfisher, Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove, Great Cuckoo-Dove, Moluccan Goshawk, Moluccan King Parrot, Ivory-breasted Pitta, White-naped Monarch, Drab Whistler, Halmahera Paradise Crow, and watched Wallace’s Standardwing at its lek in the forest. On our extension we saw ‘Bacan’ Cream-throated White-eye and ‘Bacan’ Spangled Drongos, and on Obi we had a superb encounter with the Obi (or Moluccan) Woodcock, plus Cinnamon-breasted Whistlers, Obi Paradise Crows, ‘Obi’ Northern Fantail, Obi Spangled Drongos, Obi Golden Bulbuls, North Moluccan Pitta, and both Obi and Red-tinged Myzomela. Mammals seen on the tour included Sulawesi Bear Cuscus, Gursky’s Spectral Tarsier, Celebes Crested Macaque and Sperm Whale. A special thanks to Adam and Jonas is due, for making it all run so smoothly.

We began our tour in Makassar, where we came together in the mausoleum-like new airport building. We set off for the Malino Highlands, a three-hour drive eastwards, and as we climbed into the forested hills we hit heavy rain and it became clear we would not be doing any birding today! Some hopeful peering off the hotel balcony did actually produce a flyby Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, while Glossy Swiftlets dodged between the raindrops.

The next morning the rain had stopped, and we set off into the surrounding hills. We followed a small trail that curved around the partly-forested hillsides, where we found a furtive Superb Fruit Dove, Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk and a perched Sulawesi Hawk Eagle. In a wet gully we found Lompobattang Leaf Warbler, and then a Lompobattang Flycatcher popped out of the gloom to give us a good view. Also here a trio of Sulawesi Serpent Eagles soared overhead, we found the endemic Black-ringed White-eye, plus Citrine Canary Flycatcher, a juvenile Sulawesi Brush Cuckoo, Golden-bellied Gerygone and Warbling White-eye. In an area of fields we saw Chestnut and Pale-headed Munias and Golden-headed Cisticola, before heading for Makassar Fishponds. In the late afternoon, we found Pied Stilts, Greater and Siberian Sand Plovers, Little Ringed and a small party of Javan Plovers, Nankeen Night Herons and Little Black Cormorants flying by, plus Eurasian Whimbrel, Pacific Golden Plovers, Red-necked and Long-toed Stints, Grey-tailed Tattler, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers. A fine day to start the tour.

In the limestone hills of Karaenta forest, at first light we stood inside the gloomy forest. A Black-headed Kingfisher showed briefly. Avoiding the noisy traffic we walked into the forest to find some peace and quiet, another Black-headed Kingfisher was found and showed very well, and we found Sulawesi Cicadabird, White-eyed Spangled Drongo, a surprise Red-backed Thrush, plus two Piping Crow. At the foot of the mountain we found ‘Hispid’ Kingfishers and our first Black Sunbirds, and two Asian Wooly-necked Storks soared overhead. It was time to head for Makassar airport, we flew to Palu then drove south to Lore Lindu under stormy skies. We arrived at Wuasa in time for dinner, our home for the next three nights.

Our first morning in Lore Lindu began in tall forest at 1800m by Lake Tambing, the birding quickly got busy with Fiery-browed Mynas, Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo, Sultan’s Cuckoo Dove, Superb Fruit Dove, a pair of Purple bearded Bee-eater, Red-eared Fruit Dove, Black-crowned White-eye, Sulawesi Myzomela, Turquoise Flycatcher, Malia, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Yellow-cheeked Lorikeet, a Dark-eared Myza, Jerdon’s Baza, Pygmy Cuckooshrike, and a furtive Sulawesi Bush Warbler. Later we tried birding at a lower elevation along the Sedoa river valley, finding Knobbed Hornbill, Purple Needletails, Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, and a Barred Honey Buzzard. At dusk in the rice fields we saw Wood Sandpipers, Lesser Coucal, and an Eastern Grass Owl showed well as it hunted the fields.

Pre-dawn owling was successful, with a Cinnabar Boobook showing well at the roadside. A Speckled Boobook called distantly but wouldn’t engage, then as the dawn came up we set off up the Anaso track. We trekked up to 2300m, a quiet forest for birds but we managed to find several Hylocitrea, much wanted by the family collectors among us. We also saw Sulawesi Heleiea, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, had glimpses of Indonesian Serin and White-eared Myza, and had a brief look at ‘Lore Lindu’ Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. The rain arrived as we started our downhill walk, brightening up for us to see Cerulean Cuckooshrike and Sulawesi Thrush down on the roadside, before heading back for a well-earned dinner.

A last morning up in the cool mountain forests, we found a Great Shortwing singing in the gloom, kindly hopping into view for some decent looks. Other birds here included an obliging pair of Sulawesi Thrush, we had some cracking views of Maroon-backed Whistler, plus ‘Sulawesi’ Black-naped Oriole, Red-eared Fruit Dove, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, and a stunning selection of moths attracted to the lights around the toilet block. Time to leave, we drove back to Palu in the rain, en-route finding Black-faced, Pale-headed and Chestnut Munias in paddyfields, and in riverside scrub we had a great look at a roosting Savanna Nightjar, a flight view of a Red-backed Buttonquail, a Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo and White-shouldered Trillers.

As so often happens with LionAir, our onward flight time was changed, which meant a very early start to fly to Makassar. Waiting for our onward flight to Manado we passed the hours in a comfortable lounge, then on arriving in Manado we met our local guide Adam. A long drive in the rain followed, to Kotamobagu, our home for the next three nights.

Around the edges of Bogani Wartabone National Park we spent a productive morning, with Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon, Black-naped Fruit Dove, Bay Coucal, White-necked Myna, Ashy Woodpecker, Grosbeak Starlings, Sulawesi Crested Myna, and Oberholser’s Fruit Dove. Later we headed to the remnant forest at Toraut, crossing the river on a bamboo raft and walking the forest trails finding Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher, Azure-rumped Parrot, Pale-blue Monarch, and Spotted Harriers among the Black Kites. Our next task was to try and see Maleo in their nesting ground at Tambun. In near darkness we assembled in a hide, to watch for the birds coming to lay their eggs in the thermally heated soil. A gutteral howl as if from Jurassic Park heralded the arrival of a pair at the back of the clearing, and they proceeded to strut around in front of us, looking for a place to lay their egg. We were treated to superb views of these fantastic birds, before they melted away back into the forest, having probably selected a spot here, but decided not to lay this morning. Our host Max showed us an example of the huge egg that takes 60-80 days to hatch, can be buried at depths of 1.5m yet somehow the chick knows to emerge at night! A couple of flight-ready day-old chicks from the hatchery were brought out and we were able to release them, allowing them to fly off into forest in what was to be a magical moment. Later we crept around the forest trails, a Blue-faced Rail was spotted in the rattan thickets by Adam, and together with Max he managed to herd it into view for us. Wow! A rarely seen bird, and only the second time for me. We also saw Sulawesi Brush Cuckoo, Great Hanging Parrot and had glimpses of a shy Green-backed Kingfisher. The heavens opened and we took shelter, and as the rain abated it provided optimal conditions for viewing both Barred Rails and Isabelline Bush-hens that emerged onto the roadsides. In the afternoon we explored paddy fields, finding Greater Painted Snipe, Buff-banded Rail and many Wood Sandpipers, and at a small depleted marsh we saw some Dusky Moorhens and many White-browed Crakes, before heading back to Kotamobagu for dusk. Standing outside a church on a busy road, we watched a Sulawesi Masked Owl leave its roost in the church tower and sit in a nearby coconut palm. Another excellent day!

Our final morning in this area, and it was time to climb Gunung Ambang. The access is further than ever as the forest continues to recede, the slopes being gradually converted to onion fields. Trekking up into the forest, we got close to a vocal Sombre Pigeon that remained invisible as it hid in tall trees. Birds were few but we had a great view of Sulawesi Bush Warbler, Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher and Sulawesi Fantails, but no sign of the Matinan Flycatcher. Heavy rain arrived, and we had a very wet walk back to our vehicles! It was time to head eastwards to Tomohon, with a stop just before dusk produced 70 Sunda Teal, Dusky Moorhen and Black-backed Swamphen at a steaming volcanic lake. Before dinner we looked for Speckled Boobook on the edge of town and were rewarded with views of one sat in a roadside tree.

We made our way the short distance to the forested slopes of Gunung Mahawu, to a hide that had been set up by Adam. It wasn’t long before the vivid apparition of a Sulawesi Pitta appeared next to the hide and entertained us for a solid 25 minutes before melting away into the forest. Birding along the road we had a brief look at Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker plus Sulawesi Myzomela. Adam disappeared into the thick jungle, and before long he was calling us in having found a lovely Scaly Kingfisher, a confiding bird that allowed us a good long look. After a rare hotel breakfast we headed the fairly short distance to Tangkoko, en route stopping at a viewpoint overlooking the forest where we saw Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Grosbeak Starlings and Knobbed Hornbills. In the afternoon we walked into the Tangkoko forests, finding Purple-winged Rollers, Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon, paulina race Green Imperial Pigeons, confiding Green-backed Kingfishers, Philippine Megapode and White-faced Cuckoo Dove. We saw our first Gursky’s Spectral Tarsiers, tucked away in a hollow tree, and a sloth-like Bear Cuscus high in the canopy. At dusk we saw Great Eared Nightjar and had ventral views of a Sulawesi Nightjar perched on the top of a mango tree.

The next morning we revisited the overlook terrace on Tambuan Hill where we saw Sulawesi Crested Myna, Pied Cuckooshrike, numerous Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons, and a few Knobbed Hornbills. We headed to the lowland forest to follow a small trail, where a jewel of a Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher was perched. In the main forest we had better looks at Philippine Megapode, White-faced Cuckoo Dove, a young Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, and some more very cute Gursky’s Spectral Tarsier. We retreated to our hotel during the midday heat, then back up to the hill to where we saw ‘Sulawesi’ Black-naped Orioles, Black-naped Fruit Doves, White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, and a young Rufous-bellied Eagle.  Adam spotted three Pygmy Hanging Parrots feeding in a tree top, and we were able to enjoy lengthy views of these tiny chaps. Back at our lodge as darkness fell, we successfully lured in a Sulawesi Scops Owl, followed soon after by a fine Ochre-bellied Boobook.

A final morning in this special place, before it was even light enough to see one of our young guides had spotted a Ruddy Kingfisher sitting quietly by the stream at our lodge. Amazing skills! We then headed for the beach, boarded outrigger canoes and slowly chugged along the coast. We saw Blue Rock Thrushes, Pacific Reef Heron, White-bellied Sea Eagle, and soon found our target of Great billed Kingfisher perched over the rocky shoreline. Another two were nearby, and along the beaches and mangroves we saw Kentish Plovers, Greater Sand Plover, Whiskered Tern, White-rumped Cuckooshrike, Pink-necked Green Pigeon and Asian Glossy Starling. We made a beach landing in the core forest area and recommenced our searches. We found Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher, Pale-blue Monarch, an obliging Spot-tailed Goshawk, and when we had all but given up a splendid Red-backed Thrush was found. Then it was time to say goodbye to our excellent hosts Samuel and Patti, and head for the Grand Luley Resort for our last night in Sulawesi. In the hotel grounds, the mangroves hosted Pied Imperial Pigeons, White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, Grey-tailed Tattlers roosting in bushes, and on the jetty were roosting Siberian Sandplovers and a surprise Broad-billed Sandpiper.

A long travel day followed, with a pre-dawn run to Manado airport, a flight to Ternate, a speedboat to Sofifi, a long drive across Halmahera to Tobelo and a rather challenging speedboat ride to Morotai. We managed to squeeze in an hour’s worth of birding before the end of the day, and saw our first Morotai Friarbirds.

With just one morning on Morotai, we headed for a logging track to where we could access the hill forest. The locals appeared with a small pick-up, we squeezed into the back and drove uphill. We walked up a trail where we found many Morotai Friarbirds, plus Chattering Lory, both male and female Moluccan Eclectus, Blue-capped Fruit Dove, Moluccan Hanging Parrot, Moluccan Flycatcher, and the Morotai White-eye showed briefly. We also found Blyth’s Hornbill, Halmahera Golden Bulbul, Red-cheeked Parrot, Shining Flycatcher, Long-billed Crow and Spectacled Imperial Pigeon. We returned to Tobelo by speedboat, and that evening we headed up the coast to Galela, where we shuttled across the creek in a flimsy boat to the Moluccan Megapode beach. A Moluccan Scops Owl showed well in the palms as we waited to cross, before we settled in for a lengthy wait for the Megapodes to come down and lay their eggs in the black sand. Eventually one of them did and was pinned to the spot by a torch beam until we had our fill of this fascinating bird.

We had a long drive the next morning to reach Subaim, the sometimes available car ferry not running this week! The journey passed painlessly, and we added Great Frigatebird and Grey-headed Fruit Dove as we went. We arrived at Subaim in time for some lunch before heading out to the nearby forests. A violent rainstorm made us grateful of the shelter we had, and once it had stopped we ventured forth finding Rufous-bellied Triller, Blyth’s Hornbill, Great Cuckoo Dove, Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon, and Goliath Coucals booming as they gathered to roost.

Our mission the next morning was to visit the lekking area for Wallace’s Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise at Foli. Driving in the dark to the start point, we switched to a 4×4 pickup truck to get up the muddy track. Clinging on in the back, we were delayed slightly by a fallen tree across the track, the result of yesterday’s storm, and walking down a slippery trail to the lek site, the loud lekking calls of the Standardwing starting just as we arrived. As it grew lighter, we could make out one male showing off his rackets and plumes, excited by another nearby male. Just two birds present, alas no females, but thrilling nonetheless as it bounced around in the morning light. A well-earned al-fresco breakfast followed, then we walked the old logging track until late morning, finding Moluccan Cuckooshrike, Great-billed Parrot, Violet-necked Lorys and Red-flanked Lorikeet, White-throated Needletail, Blue-and-White Kingfisher, White Cockatoo, Moluccan Goshawk, and a lovely  Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove. We found vocal but furtive Ivory-breasted Pittas, one of which was glimpsed as it bounced across a path. We spent the afternoon back along the Buli Road, seeing Halmahera Golden Bulbuls, many Red-cheeked Parrots, a confiding Cream-throated White-eye, White-streaked Friarbird, Chattering Lory and a Moluccan Myzomela.

Returning to the Buli Road on a drizzly morning, the birds eventually woke up and we saw Island Leaf Warbler and a quartet of Halmahera Paradise Crows gorging on red berries. Two Moluccan King Parrots were enjoyed as they fed in a large tree, and a vocal Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler gave a stunning and lengthy show at the roadside. We followed a forest trail where we had good views of Great Cuckoo Dove and Black-chinned Whistler, and another stop provided Moluccan Goshawk, Oriental Hobby, White-naped Monarch, and a Moluccan Brush Cuckoo that almost landed on my head! We finished the morning with a pair of Gurney’s Eagle, and in the afternoon we visited Gunung Roni. Despite more rain we found Pacific Baza, Moustached Treeswift, North Moluccan Cicadabird, Moluccan Starlings, and we heard both Sombre and Common Paradise Kingfishers.

Turning our attention to night birds, we started early and quickly found Moluccan Owlet-Nightjars by the roadside and had really good views of one, however the Boobooks were silent. After dawn we found Moluccan Cuckooshrikes, and a splendid Sombre Kingfisher sat calmly in a tree. Further scanning of the forested hillsides produced Halmahera Cuckooshrikes and another Great Cuckoo Dove. Later we saw a few Gurney’s Eagles, White Cockatoo, and enjoyed the noisy family of Oriental Hobby that whizzed around the pass, harassing the Long-billed Crows.

At dawn the next day we were at Akatejawe Lolobata National Park, where we were promised pittas. We spent the morning in different hides, in the second one a glorious Ivory-breasted Pitta emerged and did a merry dance on the open ground! Attempts to see Northern Moluccan Pitta were less successful, but we had a close view of a bijou Moluccan Dwarf Kingfisher, and a Drab Whistler sang above the trail. Also here were Pied Imperial Pigeons, Metallic Starlings, Goliath Coucals, Blyth’s Hornbill, Rufous-bellied Triller, Halmahera Spangled Drongo and Halmahera Paradise Crow. From here we headed for Sofifi, to catch the slow boat to Ternate. At a sedate 8 knots we spent a leisurely two hours watching scores of Lesser Frigatebirds plus a couple of Greats, Black-naped and Greater Crested Terns and a Pacific Reef Heron in mid-channel stood on a floating tree. A hot shower awaited in Ternate, and we finished our main tour with a fine meal and cold beer.

As the extension to the tour began, we headed for the crater lake at Danau Tolire. Tricoloured Grebes swam on the lake, we saw Shining Flycatcher, Blue-capped Fruit Dove, Blue Rock Thrush and a bright Arctic Warbler. Circumnavigating the island, we visited a beach where we found a splendid pair of Beach Kingfishers sat high in a tree growing from the shallows. Also here was a colony of Metallic Starlings nesting colonially in big weaver-like nests, a lone Red-necked Phalarope, and ‘Eastern’ Common Terns perched on flotsam. We then prepared ourselves for our overnight ferry to Obi, boarding the busy ship and settling into our simple cabins for the night.

We paused on the island of Bacan soon after dawn, ate breakfast on the quayside and watched House Swifts nesting in the lamp standards. Once we were on our way again, the friendly Captain invited us onto the small deck in front of the bridge. Engine trouble meant we were reduced to one engine instead of two, and we crawled along at 12 kph! A few seabirds kept us amused, with Brown Booby, Greater Crested and Common Terns, Bulwer’s Petrels and a couple of Sperm Whales. The engine issue was resolved, and we made a brief stop on the island Bisa where a pair of Beach Kingfisher sat in mangroves trees, and a Great billed Heron stood in the shallows. Eventually we reached Obi, with its hills shrouded in dark forbidding clouds, with enough time to get to the Moluccan Woodcock site. It was a drizzly end to the day, and large numbers of South Moluccan Flying Foxes were taking to the air. Just as it started to get dark, we saw it, a Moluccan Woodcock flying overhead! Without calling it passed close by and came around another two times before it got dark. Hoorah!

On our first morning on Obi we walked a trail where we found our first Obi Paradise Crows making their strange bugling sounds, and the splendid songster that is Cinnamon-breasted (or Obi) Whistler, Obi Cicadabird with his foxy female, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, ‘Obi’ Moluccan Monarch, ‘Obi’ Spangled Drongo, and Obi Golden Bulbuls. We spent a while tracking down a vocal North Moluccan Pitta, until everybody had views of this stunner, and a Moluccan Dwarf Kingfisher was also present in the same thicket

In the afternoon we went in a different direction, and apart from seeing more of the delightful Obi Paradise Crows and some Red-flanked Lorikeets, we only achieved getting soaked in torrential rain! Another attempt to see the Woodcock failed to produce.

We switched to a rugged 4×4 pickup and drove up a very rough track into the hills, surely impassable were it not for our skilled driver and his Mitsubishi. At 500m in degraded forest we found Red-tinged Myzomelas, and a single of the scarlet-headed undescribed Obi Myzomela. Also here were Variable Goshawk, ‘Obi’ Northern Fantail, Chattering and Violet-necked Lorys, and Spectacled Imperial Pigeon. In the afternoon we explored closer to town, seeing ‘Obi’ Moluccan Monarch, Variable Goshawk, Obi Golden Bulbuls, Sahul Brush Cuckoo, and at dusk we waited once more for a roding Moluccan Woodcock. Nothing came, it grew dark, and as we went to pack up for the night, Adam made one last scan around with his lamp – and found a Moluccan Woodcock stood on a branch in a big tree! Wow! That was amazing! We watched it pacing up and down for a good 15 minutes, without it ever leaving its branch.

One last morning on Obi, we saw Large-tailed Nightjar going to roost, but searching for the Fruit Dove drew a blank. We saw a distant ‘Obi’ Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon, and enjoyed Red-flanked Lorikeets and Violet-necked Lorys. Then it was time to board the ferry for Bacan, and when it finally decided to depart we had a good crossing with hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes dotting the glassy sea, 120+ Streaked Shearwaters, Bulwer’s Petrel, Greater Crested and Bridled Terns. We landed on Bacan with enough time to do a little birding, and quickly found the Bacan White-eye, also Black-chinned Whistler, Halmahera Golden Bulbuls, and a Blue-and-white Kingfisher.

In the morning we explored the forest further, with our first ‘Bacan’ Hair-crested Drongo seen chasing a Variable Goshawk. Bacan is a reliable place to find Common Paradise Kingfishers and we saw at least four in total, with a pair that settled down and allowed long looks as they sat wagging their tails. We had good looks at Black-chinned Whistler and Bacan White-eye again, plus a Moluccan Flycatcher pair, several Moustached Treeswifts, White-streaked Friarbird, Moluccan Eclectus and Moluccan Hanging Parrots. Despite a lack of ready access to the hill forests, in the afternoon we explored more widely and saw more ‘Bacan’ Drongos, an Oriental Cuckoo and a trio of Halmahera Paradise Crows, before it was time to pack up and head for our overnight ferry back to Ternate.

Arriving back on the busy island at dawn, it was time to bring our epic tour to a close, bid farewell to our travelling companions and begin the long trek home. What a great birding trip this had been, with a wonderful selection of endemic birds across five islands.

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).
The species names and taxonomy used in the bird list follow Gill, F., Donsker, D., & Rasmussen, P. (Eds). 2025 IOC World Bird List (v15.1).

BIRDS
Sunda Teal ◊  Anas gibberifrons  70 seen on a volcanic lake near Tomohon.
Maleo ◊  Macrocephalon maleo    Endemic. Probably ‘bird-of-the-trip’, a fantastic experience all round, with the sight of a pair stalking around the breeding clearing, the eggs that take 60-80 days to hatch, and the flight-ready day-old chicks that we were allowed to release two from the hatchery. Absolutely wonderful.
Moluccan Megapode ◊  Eulipoa wallacei  Excellent close views of one, spotlit on the beach at Galela.
Philippine Megapode ◊ (Tabon Scrubfowl)  Megapodius cumingii  Skittish pairs racing about at Tangkoko.
Dusky Megapode ◊ (D Scrubfowl)  Megapodius freycinet  One seen well on Morotai.
King Quail (Blue-breasted Q)  Synoicus chinensis  Heard at Gunung Ambang, a couple seen in flight.
Great Eared Nightjar  Lyncornis macrotis  One seen at Tangkoko.
Large-tailed Nightjar  Caprimulgus macrurus  Seen well on Obi, heard on Halmahera and Morotai.
Sulawesi Nightjar ◊  Caprimulgus celebensis  Endemic. Seen ventrally in a treetop at Tangkoko.
Savanna Nightjar  Caprimulgus affinis  Just a single found in daytime near Palu.
Moluccan Owlet-nightjar ◊  Aegotheles crinifrons    Endemic. Great looks at one or more along the Buli road, others heard there.
Grey-rumped Treeswift  Hemiprocne longipennis
Moustached Treeswift ◊  Hemiprocne mystacea  Great birds, seen a few times on Halmahera, also on Bacan.
Glossy Swiftlet  Collocalia esculenta
Moluccan Swiftlet ◊ (Halmahera S)  Aerodramus [infuscatus] infuscatus
Moluccan Swiftlet ◊ (Sulawesi S)  Aerodramus [infuscatus] sororum
Uniform Swiftlet  Aerodramus vanikorensis
Edible-nest Swiftlet (introduced)  Aerodramus fuciphagus  Unfortunately, the mass introduction of these from Java to populate nest farms has clouded the picture of Swiftlet identification in many places.
White-throated Needletail  Hirundapus caudacutus  A single at Foli, another on the Buli Road.
Purple Needletail ◊  Hirundapus celebensis  A good number in the air over the ridges at Lore Lindu.
Asian Palm Swift  Cypsiurus balasiensis
Pacific Swift  Apus pacificus  A single over paddies near Tambun.
House Swift  Apus nipalensis
Bay Coucal ◊  Centropus celebensis  Endemic. Often seen on Sulawesi.
Goliath Coucal ◊  Centropus goliath    Endemic. Frequent sightings on Halmahera where the deep booming chorus forms part of the enchanting soundscape.
Lesser Coucal  Centropus bengalensis  Seen in long grass on Sulawesi and Bacan.
Yellow-billed Malkoha ◊  Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus  Endemic. Great views at Tangkoko.
Black-billed Koel ◊  Eudynamys melanorhynchus  Endemic.
Little Bronze Cuckoo (Gould’s B C)  Chalcites [minutillus] russatus  Not uncommon on Sulawesi.
Plaintive Cuckoo  Cacomantis merulinus  One near Toraut, also heard at Palu.
Sulawesi Brush Cuckoo ◊  Cacomantis virescens  Endemic. A commonly heard sound in the Sulawesi forests.
Sahul Brush Cuckoo  Cacomantis variolosus  Frequent on all the Moluccan islands.
Moluccan Brush Cuckoo ◊  Cacomantis aeruginosus  A vigorously responsive one on the Buli Road that nearly landed on my head!
Moluccan Drongo-Cuckoo ◊  Surniculus musschenbroeki  Heard-only.
Oriental Cuckoo  Cuculus optatus  One on Bacan on our last afternoon.
Rock Dove (introduced)  Columba [livia] var_domestica
Red Collared Dove (introduced) (R Turtle D)  Streptopelia tranquebarica
Spotted Dove  Spilopelia chinensis
Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove ◊  Macropygia doreya  Not uncommon on Halmahera, also on Obi and Bacan.
Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove (Sulawesi C-D)  Macropygia [doreya] albicapilla  Endemic.
Great Cuckoo-Dove ◊  Reinwardtoena reinwardti  Great looks at two or three birds on the top of the Buli Road.
White-faced Cuckoo-Dove ◊  Turacoena manadensis  Seen well at Tangkoko.
Common Emerald Dove  Chalcophaps indica  One seen on Bacan.
Zebra Dove  Geopelia striata
Pink-necked Green Pigeon  Treron vernans  A handful seen in mangrove at Tangkoko and Grand Luley Resort.

Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon ◊  Treron griseicauda  A small number found at Tangkoko.

Red-eared Fruit Dove ◊  Ptilinopus fischeri  Endemic. Seen at Lore Lindu.

Oberholser’s Fruit Dove ◊  Ptilinopus gularis  Endemic. One performed well at Tapacolintang, another at Toraut.

Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove ◊  Ptilinopus bernsteinii  Endemic. Great views of this peaceful-looking Pigeon at Foli.

Superb Fruit Dove ◊ (Western S F D)  Ptilinopus [superbus] temminckii  Endemic. Good looks at Lake Tambing.

Blue-capped Fruit Dove ◊  Ptilinopus monacha  North Moluccan endemic. Seen on Morotai, Halmahera, Ternate and best views on Bacan.

Grey-headed Fruit Dove ◊  Ptilinopus hyogastrus  Endemic. Frequent on Halmahera.

Carunculated Fruit Dove ◊  Ptilinopus granulifrons  Endemic to Obi. Non-leader. Two seen by Peter.

Black-naped Fruit Dove  Ptilinopus melanospilus

White-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊  Ducula forsteni  Endemic. Flight views at Lore Lindu, better looks at Tangkoko.

Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon ◊  Ducula radiata  Endemic. Good views at Tapacolintang.

Green Imperial Pigeon (Paulina’s I P)  Ducula [aenea] paulina  Endemic. Seen at Tangkoko.

Spectacled Imperial Pigeon ◊  Ducula perspicillata  Endemic. Seen on Morotai, Halmahera, and on Obi.

Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊  Ducula basilica  Endemic. Nice views of these on Halmahera.

Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ (Obi I P)  Ducula [basilica] obiensis  Endemic. A distant bird seen on our last morning on Obi.

Pied Imperial Pigeon  Ducula bicolor

Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon ◊  Ducula luctuosa  Endemic. Plenty at Tangkoko.

Sombre Pigeon ◊  Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa  Heard-only. Endemic. On Gunung Ambang, we got close.

Barred Rail ◊  Hypotaenidia torquata  Plenty seen in north Sulawesi.

Buff-banded Rail  Hypotaenidia philippensis  Four seen in northern Sulawesi.

Dusky Moorhen  Gallinula tenebrosa  Seen near Kotamobagu and Tomohon.

Common Moorhen  Gallinula chloropus

Black-backed Swamphen  Porphyrio indicus 

Blue-faced Rail ◊  Gymnocrex rosenbergii  One was herded into our view at Tambun by our guides.

White-browed Crake  Poliolimnas cinereus  Nine seen on a small marsh near Kotamobagu.

White-breasted Waterhen  Amaurornis phoenicurus

Isabelline Bush-hen ◊  Amaurornis isabellina  Endemic. A great view of two along the roadside at Tambun.

Pale-vented Bush-hen ◊ (Rufous-tailed B)  Amaurornis moluccana  Glimpses of one on Obi.

Tricolored Grebe ◊  Tachybaptus tricolor  Seen on Ternate.

Red-backed Buttonquail  Turnix maculosus  One seen briefly near Palu.

Pied Stilt (White-headed S)  Himantopus leucocephalus

Pacific Golden Plover  Pluvialis fulva

Little Ringed Plover  Charadrius dubius  Three at Makassar fishponds.

Siberian Sand Plover  Anarhynchus mongolus  Seen at Makassar and at Grand Luley.

Greater Sand Plover  Anarhynchus leschenaultii  Singles seen at Makassar and Tangkoko.

Javan Plover ◊  Anarhynchus javanicus  Five seen at Makassar fishponds.

Kentish Plover  Anarhynchus alexandrinus  Nine seen on a beach at Tangkoko.

Greater Painted-snipe  Rostratula benghalensis  Four seen in paddyfields near Tambun

Eurasian Whimbrel  Numenius phaeopus

Moluccan Woodcock ◊  Scolopax rochussenii  Endemic. Bird of the trip as far as I am concerned! On our first night on Obi we were lucky enough to see this fly past three times. On our final evening Adam found one by chance, standing on a branch in a large durian tree, where it remained for 15 minutes until we left it alone.

Red-necked Phalarope  Phalaropus lobatus  Odd birds seen on most ferry crossings, large numbers between Obi and Bacan.

Terek Sandpiper  Xenus cinereus  Two at Makassar fishponds.

Common Sandpiper  Actitis hypoleucos

Grey-tailed Tattler  Tringa brevipes  Three at Makassar fishponds, 14 at high tide roost in bushes at the Grand Luley resort.

Marsh Sandpiper  Tringa stagnatilis

Wood Sandpiper  Tringa glareola

Common Redshank  Tringa totanus

Common Greenshank  Tringa nebularia

Ruddy Turnstone  Arenaria interpres  A single greeted us on the jetty on Morotai.

Broad-billed Sandpiper  Calidris falcinellus  One trying to roost on the jetty at the Grand Luley Resort, a write-in for this tour.

Long-toed Stint  Calidris subminuta  A single at Makassar fishponds.

Red-necked Stint  Calidris ruficollis  A single at Makassar fishponds.

Bridled Tern  Onychoprion anaethetus  Five between Obi and Bacan, a single en route to Morotai.

Little Tern  Sternula albifrons  A few at Makassar fishponds.

Gull-billed Tern  Gelochelidon nilotica  One seen at Bacan.

Whiskered Tern  Chlidonias hybrida

White-winged Tern  Chlidonias leucopterus  Two or more seen between Morotai and Tobelo.

Common Tern (Eastern C T)  Sterna [hirundo] longipennis

Black-naped Tern  Sterna sumatrana  Two seen between Sofifi and Ternate.

Greater Crested Tern  Thalasseus bergii

Streaked Shearwater  Calonectris leucomelas  Some 120+ seen between Bacan and Obi.

Wedge-tailed Shearwater  Ardenna pacifica  Non-leader. One en-route to Morotai.

Bulwer’s Petrel  Bulweria bulwerii  One on the crossing to Obi, four on the return.

Asian Woolly-necked Stork  Ciconia episcopus  Two circling overhead at the foot of the Karaenta hills.

Lesser Frigatebird  Fregata ariel  Many seen between Sofifi and Ternate.

Great Frigatebird  Fregata minor  Two seen over land on Halmahera, another between Sofifi and Ternate.

Brown Booby  Sula leucogaster

Oriental Darter  Anhinga melanogaster  Two seen flying off the Sedoa river at Lore Lindu.

Little Pied Cormorant  Microcarbo melanoleucos  A single seen en route to Obi.

Little Black Cormorant  Phalacrocorax sulcirostris  Small flocks seen flying at Makassar fishponds.

Black-crowned Night Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax

Nankeen Night Heron (Rufous N H)  Nycticorax caledonicus  Small flocks seen flying at Makassar fishponds.

Pacific Reef Heron  Egretta sacra

Little Egret (Black-footed E)  Egretta [garzetta] nigripes

Striated Heron  Butorides striata  Two at Makassar, one at Tangkoko.

Javan Pond Heron  Ardeola speciosa

Great Egret (Eastern G E)  Ardea [alba] modesta

Medium Egret  Ardea intermedia

Eastern Cattle Egret  Ardea coromanda

Purple Heron  Ardea purpurea

Great-billed Heron ◊  Ardea sumatrana  One seen from the ferry to Obi, standing in the shallows on the island of Bisa.

Osprey (Eastern O, Australian O)  Pandion [haliaetus] cristatus  One seen on Bacan.

Black-winged Kite  Elanus caeruleus  One at Malino.

Jerdon’s Baza ◊ (Sulawesi B)  Aviceda [jerdoni] celebensis  One flew through the trees at Lake Tambing.

Pacific Baza ◊  Aviceda subcristata  Great views of a family party at Gunung Roni

Barred Honey Buzzard ◊ (Sulawesi H B)  Pernis celebensis  Endemic. A single flying over the forest along the Sedoa river at Lore Lindu.

Sulawesi Serpent Eagle ◊  Spilornis rufipectus  Endemic. A good show this year, with four at Malino, one at Tambun (probably catching a recently hatched Maleo chick!) and one at Tangkoko

Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle ◊  Nisaetus lanceolatus  Endemic. A perched bird on our first morning at Malino, one at Lore lIndu and a juvenile at Tangkoko.

Rufous-bellied Eagle  Lophotriorchis kienerii  Seen at Lore Lindu, a juvenile at Tangkoko.

Black Eagle  Ictinaetus malaiensis  Just two, at Lore Lindu.

Gurney’s Eagle ◊  Aquila gurneyi  Several seen over the forests along the Buli Road.

Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk ◊  Tachyspiza trinotata  Endemic. One at Malino, better views of one at Tangkoko.

Variable Goshawk  Tachyspiza hiogaster  Good looks at a couple on Obi.

Variable Goshawk ◊ (Grey-throated G)  Tachyspiza [hiogaster] griseogularis  One on Halmahera, one on Bacan.

Moluccan Goshawk ◊  Tachyspiza henicogramma  At least five seen on Halmahera.

Spotted Harrier  Circus assimilis  Two seen at Toraut.

Black Kite  Milvus migrans  Quite a few seen in northern Sulawesi.

Brahminy Kite  Haliastur indus

White-bellied Sea Eagle  Icthyophaga leucogaster

Sulawesi Masked Owl ◊  Tyto rosenbergii  Endemic. One seen in urban Kotamobagu.

Eastern Grass Owl  Tyto longimembris  One watched hunting the rice paddies at Wuasa.

Barking Owl ◊  Ninox connivens  Heard-only, on the Buli Road.

Ochre-bellied Boobook ◊  Ninox ochracea  Endemic. No sign of any roosting birds at Tangkokoj, so we lured one in at our guesthouse where it showed very well.

Cinnabar Boobook ◊  Ninox ios  Endemic. One showed very well to us at Lore Lindu.

Halmahera Boobook ◊  Ninox hypogramma  Heard-only. Endemic. One calling at Foli was our only contact.

Speckled Boobook ◊  Ninox punctulata  Endemic. After a couple of failed attempts we saw one at Tomohon.

Moluccan Scops Owl ◊  Otus magicus  Excellent views of two birds at Galela.

Sulawesi Scops Owl ◊  Otus manadensis  Endemic. One seen behind our guesthouse at Tangkoko.

Blyth’s Hornbill ◊  Rhyticeros plicatus

Knobbed Hornbill ◊  Rhyticeros cassidix  Endemic. Seen in various locations on Sulawesi.

Sulawesi Hornbill ◊ (S Dwarf H)  Rhabdotorrhinus exarhatus  Heard-only. Endemic.

Purple-winged Roller ◊  Coracias temminckii  Endemic. Nice looks at three at Tangkoko.

Green-backed Kingfisher ◊  Actenoides monachus  Endemic. Stunning close views at Tangkoko, shy birds also at Tambun and Toraut.

Green-backed Kingfisher ◊ (Black-headed K)  Actenoides [monachus] capucinus  Endemic. Two seen at Karaenta, one of which posed at length in the gloomy forest.

Scaly-breasted Kingfisher ◊ (Lore Lindu K)  Actenoides [princeps] erythrorhamphus  Endemic. A brief look at one at the top of the Anaso track.

Scaly-breasted Kingfisher ◊ (Regal K)  Actenoides [princeps] regalis  Endemic. Stunning views of a female at Gunung Mahawu, skilfully located by Adam.

Common Paradise Kingfisher ◊  Tanysiptera galatea  Heard only on Halmahera, seen very well on Bacan with four birds found.

Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher ◊  Cittura cyanotis  Endemic. One found at Toraut, another at Tangkoko.

Great-billed Kingfisher ◊  Pelargopsis melanorhyncha  Three birds found along the coast on our Tangkoko boat trip.

Ruddy Kingfisher  Halcyon coromanda  One emerged from the dawn gloom along the stream at our Tangkoko lodge.

Blue-and-white Kingfisher ◊  Todiramphus diops  North Moluccan endemic. A few seen on Halmahera, Obi and Bacan.

Sombre Kingfisher ◊  Todiramphus funebris  Endemic. Great views of one sat in tall trees on the Buli Road. Also heard at Gunung Roni.

Collared Kingfisher  Todiramphus chloris

Beach Kingfisher ◊  Todiramphus saurophagus  A smart pair found on Ternate, also seen by the jetty at Bisa where two  were seen on both our brief visits.

Common Kingfisher ◊ (Hispid K)  Alcedo [atthis] hispidoides  Seen at Karaenta.

Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher ◊  Ceyx fallax  Endemic. Great views at Tangkoko, expertly found for us by our guides.

Moluccan Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ (Halmahera D K)  Ceyx [lepidus] uropygialis  North Moluccan endemic. A close view of one at Aketajawe, another seen on Obi.

Purple-bearded Bee-eater ◊  Meropogon forsteni  Endemic. Great to find a pair by Lake Tambing, absent on my previous visit.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater  Merops philippinus

Rainbow Bee-eater  Merops ornatus  Three distant birds on the Buli Road was the only sighting.

Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker ◊  Yungipicus temminckii  Endemic. Frequent sightings in Sulawesi forests.

Ashy Woodpecker ◊  Mulleripicus fulvus  Endemic. Great looks at a pair at Tapacolintang, also showed well at Tangkoko.

Spotted Kestrel  Falco moluccensis

Oriental Hobby  Falco severus  A pair with well-grown juvenile kept us entertained on the Buli Road.

White Cockatoo ◊  Cacatua alba  North Moluccan endemic. Fairly frequent sightings on Halmahera, though never close.

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo (introduced)  Cacatua galerita  Three in flight seen from our boat at Tangkoko.

Moluccan King Parrot ◊  Alisterus amboinensis  Nice views of two in a big roadside tree on the Buli Road.

Golden-mantled Racket-tail ◊ (Sulawesi Racquet-t)  Prioniturus platurus

Yellow-breasted Racket-tail ◊ (Minahasa Racquet-t)  Prioniturus flavicans  Heard-only, at Toraut.

Moluccan Eclectus  Eclectus roratus  Plenty of males seen, females only on Morotai.

Red-cheeked Parrot  Geoffroyus geoffroyi

Great-billed Parrot ◊  Tanygnathus megalorynchos  Four on Morotai and one at Foli.

Azure-rumped Parrot ◊ (Blue-backed P)  Tanygnathus [sumatranus] sumatranus  Seen well at Toraut and Tangkoko.

Red-flanked Lorikeet ◊  Hypocharmosyna placentis

Chattering Lory ◊  Lorius garrulus  North Moluccan endemic. Seen on Halmahera regularly, also a couple on Obi.

Yellow-cheeked Lorikeet ◊  Saudareos meyeri  Endemic. Quite a few at Lake Tambing.

Violet-necked Lory ◊  Eos squamata  On Morotai, at Foli and on Obi.

Great Hanging Parrot ◊ (Sulawesi H P, Large S H P)  Loriculus stigmatus  Seen well at Tambun, also Tangkoko.

Moluccan Hanging Parrot ◊  Loriculus amabilis  North Moluccan endemic.

Pygmy Hanging Parrot ◊ (Small Sulawesi H P)  Loriculus exilis  Endemic. Three of these tiny Parrots found  by Adam at Tangkoko.

Sulawesi Pitta ◊  Erythropitta celebensis  Endemic. Stunning views at Tomohon.

North Moluccan Pitta ◊  Erythropitta rufiventris  North Moluccan endemic. Annoyingly shy on Halmahera, we managed to get good looks at one on Obi.

Ivory-breasted Pitta ◊  Pitta maxima  Endemic. Some fleeting looks at one or two at Foli, then one at a hide at Aketajawe.

Dark-eared Myza ◊ (Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater)  Myza celebensis  Endemic.

White-eared Myza ◊ (Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater)  Myza sarasinorum  Endemic. Glimpsed in the mist on the Anaso track.

White-streaked Friarbird ◊ (Halmahera F)  Melitograis gilolensis  Endemic. A few sightings on Halmahera and Bacan.

Moluccan Myzomela ◊  Myzomela simplex  Endemic. A few seen on Halmahera.

Red-tinged Myzomela ◊  Myzomela rubrotincta  Endemic.  A few seen at higher elevation on Obi.

Sulawesi Myzomela ◊  Myzomela chloroptera  Endemic.  Remarkably numerous in the trees around Lake Tambing. Also seen at Gunung Mahawu.

Obi Myzomela ◊  Myzomela sp. nov.  Endemic. A brief look at one in the hills of Obi.

Morotai Friarbird ◊ (Dusky F)  Philemon fuscicapillus  Endemic. Not uncommon and quite vocal in the Morotai forests.

Golden-bellied Gerygone (Sulawesi G)  Gerygone [sulphurea] flaveola

White-breasted Woodswallow  Artamus leucorynchus

Ivory-backed Woodswallow ◊  Artamus monachus  Endemic.  A few seen at Lore Lindu, Tapacolintang, and one at Tangkoko.

Cerulean Cuckooshrike ◊  Coracina temminckii  Endemic.

Pied Cuckooshrike ◊  Coracina bicolor  Endemic. Unusually, we had views of birds in the canopy from above, at an overlook at Tangkoko.

White-rumped Cuckooshrike ◊  Coracina leucopygia  Endemic. Seen from a boat at Tangkoko, better views at Grand Luley resort.

White-bellied Cuckooshrike  Coracina papuensis

Moluccan Cuckooshrike ◊  Coracina atriceps  Seen well on the Buli Road.

Halmahera Cuckooshrike ◊ (H Cicadabird)  Coracina parvula  Endemic. Two seen on the Buli road.

Sulawesi Cicadabird ◊  Edolisoma morio  Endemic. Single males seen at Lake Tambing and Tapacolintang.

Obi Cicadabird ◊  Edolisoma obiense  Endemic. Nice views of both sexes on Obi, the female being a distinctive orange.

North Moluccan Cicadabird ◊  Edolisoma grayi  Endemic. Two seen at Gunung Roni.

Pygmy Cuckooshrike ◊ (Mountain Cicadabird)  Celebesica abbotti  Endemic.

White-shouldered Triller ◊  Lalage sueurii  Seen at Makassar.

Rufous-bellied Triller ◊  Lalage aurea  North Moluccan endemic. Frequenly encountered on all Moluccan islands.

White-rumped Triller ◊ (Sulawesi T)  Lalage leucopygialis  Endemic.

Maroon-backed Whistler ◊  Coracornis raveni  Endemic. Great looks at this skulker at Lore Lindu.

Sulphur-vented Whistler ◊ (S-bellied W, Yellow-vented W)  Pachycephala sulfuriventer  Endemic.

Black-chinned Whistler ◊ (Halmahera W, Moluccan W)  Pachycephala mentalis  Nice views on Halmahera and Bacan.

Drab Whistler ◊  Pachycephala griseonota  Seen well at Akatajawe, heard on Bacan.

Cinnamon-breasted Whistler ◊  Pachycephala johni  A tuneful endemic of Obi, heard often but just a couple seen.

Dusky-brown Oriole ◊ (Halmahera O)  Oriolus phaeochromus  Endemic. Just a couple seen on Halmahera.

Black-naped Oriole ◊ (Sulawesi Golden O)  Oriolus [chinensis] frontalis  Endemic.

Sulawesi Drongo ◊ (S Spangled D)  Dicrurus montanus  Endemic. The one at Lore Lindu.

Spangled Drongo ◊ (Morotai S D)  Dicrurus [bracteatus] morotensis  Endemic. Very vocal and musical.

Spangled Drongo ◊ (Halmahera S D)  Dicrurus [bracteatus] atrocaeruleus  Endemic.

Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (White-eyed Spangled D)  Dicrurus [hottentottus] leucops  Endemic. Often seen in lowland forest on Sulawesi.

Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (Obi Spangled D)  Dicrurus [hottentottus] guillemardi  Endemic. Not uncommon during our stay.

Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (Bacan S D)  Dicrurus [hottentottus] sp. nov.  Endemic. Another musical one, with a handful seen.

Willie Wagtail  Rhipidura leucophrys  Common, especially on Halmahera where their little cup nests clung on to the roadside wires.

Northern Fantail ◊ (Obi F)  Rhipidura [rufiventris] obiensis  Endemic. A small number seen in the Obi forests.

Sulawesi Fantail ◊ (Rusty-bellied F)  Rhipidura teysmanni   Endemic.

Pale-blue Monarch ◊  Hypothymis puella  Endemic. A few seen, one on a nest at Tambun.

Moluccan Monarch ◊ (Halmahera Spectacled M, Wallacean M)  Symposiachrus [bimaculatus] bimaculatus  Endemic.

Moluccan Monarch ◊ (O) (Obi M)  Symposiachrus [bimaculatus] diadematus  Endemic.

White-naped Monarch ◊ (Halmahera Pied M)  Carterornis [pileatus] pileatus  Endemic. Great looks at this striking fellow on the Buli Road.

Moluccan Flycatcher ◊ (M Monarch, Slaty F)  Myiagra galeata  Endemic. Seen on Morotai, excellent views on Bacan.

Shining Flycatcher ◊ (Moluccan S Monarch, Shining M)  Myiagra alecto 

Long-tailed Shrike  Lanius schach  Seen near Palu, a write-in.

Piping Crow ◊  Corvus typicus  Endemic. Two or more vocal birds seen at Karaenta.

Sulawesi Crow ◊  Corvus celebensis   Endemic. A garden bird at our Tangkoko lodgings.

Long-billed Crow ◊  Corvus validus  Endemic. A characterful and frequently seen resident of Halmahera.

Halmahera Paradise-crow ◊  Lycocorax [pyrrhopterus] pyrrhopterus  Endemic. A few seen on Halmahera, but often quite furtive. Also three seen on Bacan.

Obi Paradise-crow ◊  Lycocorax obiensis  Endemic. Second best bird on Obi, pleasingly visible with enchanting vocalisations.

Standardwing ◊ (Wallace’s S)  Semioptera wallacii  Endemic. Always a great show by these, even if only one male was visible at the lek!

Hylocitrea ◊ (Northern H)  Hylocitrea [bonensis] bonensis  Endemic. A good show by six or more of these along the Anaso track. An essential climb for the family collectors!

Citrine Canary-flycatcher ◊  Culicicapa helianthea

Halmahera Golden Bulbul ◊  Hypsipetes chloris  Endemic. In good number onHalmahera, also seen on Morotai and Bacan.

Obi Golden Bulbul ◊  Hypsipetes lucasi  Endemic. Vocally very different to the above, fairly numerous on Obi.

Yellow-vented Bulbul  Pycnonotus goiavier  Heard-only.

Sooty-headed Bulbul  Pycnonotus aurigaster

Pacific Swallow  Hirundo javanica

Barn Swallow  Hirundo rustica

Mountain Tailorbird (M Leaftoiler)  Phyllergates cucullatus

Arctic Warbler  Phylloscopus borealis  One on Ternate showed well, others heard in song on Obi and Bacan.

Sulawesi Leaf Warbler ◊  Phylloscopus nesophilus  Endemic. Seen at Lore Lindu and Gunung Ambang.

Lompobattang Leaf Warbler ◊  Phylloscopus sarasinorum  Endemic. Seen well at Malino.

Island Leaf Warbler ◊ (Halmahera/North Moluccan L W)  Phylloscopus [poliocephalus] henrietta  Endemic. A showy example near the pass on the Buli Road.

Australian Reed Warbler  Acrocephalus australis  Present at Makassar fishponds.

Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler ◊  Helopsaltes fasciolatus  Best views ever of a lively one on the Buli Road on Halmahera.

Sulawesi Bush Warbler ◊ (S Grasshopper W, Chestnut-backed B W)  Locustella castanea  Endemic. A furtive mouse at Lore Lindu, close looks at one on Gunung Ambang.

Malia ◊  Malia grata  Endemic. Several views at Lore Lindu, but hard work to get proper looks at these.

Tawny Grassbird  Cincloramphus timoriensis  Heard-only, Lore Lindu.

Zitting Cisticola (Double Zitting C)  Cisticola juncidis

Golden-headed Cisticola  Cisticola exilis  Seen in fields near Malino.

Plain Prinia (introduced)  Prinia inornata

Sulawesi Heleia ◊ (Streak-headed Dark-eye)  Heleia squamiceps  Endemic.

Warbling White-eye  Zosterops japonicus

Lemon-bellied White-eye ◊  Zosterops chloris

Black-crowned White-eye ◊  Zosterops atrifrons  Endemic. Seen well at Lore Lindu, also at Gunung Mahawu.

Black-ringed White-eye ◊  Zosterops anomalus  Endemic. A speciality of the south, we had good looks at Malino.

Morotai White-eye ◊  Zosterops dehaani  Endemic. A couple of birds seen, but never for long.

Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Halmahera W-e)  Zosterops [atriceps] fuscifrons  Endemic. Quite common by voice, with some great close views on the Buli Road.

Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Bacan W-e)  Zosterops [atriceps] atriceps  Endemic. Quite easy to find on Bacan, with several seen during our short visit.

Sulawesi Babbler ◊  Pellorneum celebense  Endemic.

Metallic Starling  Aplonis metallica  Impressive Weaver-like nests seen on Ternate.

Asian Glossy Starling  Aplonis panayensis  One seen at Tangkoko.

Moluccan Starling ◊  Aplonis mysolensis  Fewer on Halmahera than the Metallic, also found on Bisa, Obi and Bacan.

Short-tailed Starling  Aplonis minor  Some fly-bys at Wuasa.

Sulawesi Myna ◊ (S Crested M, Short-crested M)  Basilornis celebensis  Endemic. Smart examples of these at Tapacolintang and Tangkoko.

White-necked Myna ◊ (Northern W-n M)  Streptocitta [albicollis] torquata  Endemic. Good looks at a pair at  Tapacolintang, another seen at Tangkoko.

Fiery-browed Starling ◊  Enodes erythrophris  Endemic. Numerous at Lake Tambing.

Grosbeak Starling ◊ (Finch-billed Myna)  Scissirostrum dubium  Endemic. Good numbers seen at Tapacolintang and Tangkoko.

Javan Myna (introduced)  Acridotheres javanicus

Red-backed Thrush ◊  Geokichla erythronota  Endemic. Great views for all at Tangkoko, following glimpses at Karaenta and Toraut.

Sulawesi Thrush ◊  Turdus turdoides  Endemic. Eventually seen very well at Lore Lindu.

Grey-streaked Flycatcher  Muscicapa griseisticta  Nice to see these migrants at Tangkoko and on Halmahera.

Turquoise Flycatcher ◊ (Wallacean Warbling-f, Turquoise W-f)  Eumyias [panayensis] septentrionalis

Blue-fronted Blue Flycatcher  Eumyias hoevelli  Endemic. Seen well at Lore Lindu.

Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher ◊  Cyornis omissus  Endemic. A pair at Lore Lindu, also at Gunung Ambang.

Great Shortwing ◊  Heinrichia calligyna  Endemic. A good encounter in the Lore Lindu forest, a vocal male popped into the open.

Snowy-browed Flycatcher  Ficedula hyperythra Some at Lore Lindu, also at the Pitta hide at Gunung Mahawu.

Little Pied Flycatcher  Ficedula westermanni

Lompobattang Flycatcher ◊  Ficedula bonthaina  Endemic. Nice to have good views of this very restricted endemic at Malino.

Blue Rock Thrush  Monticola [solitarius] philippensis  Winter visitors arrived at Tangkoko and Ternate.

Pied Bush Chat  Saxicola caprata

Yellow-sided Flowerpecker ◊  Dicaeum aureolimbatum  Endemic. Just four seen on Sulawesi.

Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker ◊  Dicaeum nehrkorni  Endemic. Glimpses of this at Lore Lindu and Gunung Mahawu.

Halmahera Flowerpecker ◊  Dicaeum schistaceiceps  North Moluccan endemic. Seen well on Morotai, Halmahera and Obi.

Grey-sided Flowerpecker ◊  Dicaeum celebicum  Endemic. A few seen on our Sulawesi section.

Brown-throated Sunbird  Anthreptes malacensis

Black Sunbird ◊  Leptocoma aspasia

Sahul Sunbird ◊  Cinnyris frenatus

Crimson Sunbird ◊ (Sulawesi Crimson S)  Aethopyga [siparaja] flavostriata  Endemic.

Eurasian Tree Sparrow  Passer montanus
Scaly-breasted Munia  Lonchura punctulata
Black-faced Munia ◊  Lonchura molucca  First seen near Palu, some on Halmahera and plenty on Bacan.
Chestnut Munia  Lonchura atricapilla
Pale-headed Munia ◊  Lonchura pallida  Seen near Malino and Palu.
Eastern Yellow Wagtail (Alaskan W)  Motacilla [tschutschensis] tschutschensis
Grey Wagtail  Motacilla cinerea
Indonesian Serin ◊ (Mountain S)  Chrysocorythus estherae  Some flyover birds on the Anaso track, briefly seen perched also.

MAMMALS
Common Bear Cuscus  Ailurops ursinus  Four seen high in the big trees at Tangkoko.
Sperm Whale  Physeter macrocephalus  Two seen between Bacan and Obi.
South Moluccan Flying Fox (O)  Pteropus chrysoproctus  Many on Obi
Gursky’s Spectral Tarsier  Tarsius spectrumgurskyae  Several seen at Tangkoko, peeking out of cavities in big trees.
Moor Macaque  Macaca maura  Seen at Karaenta forest.
Crested Macaque  Macaca nigra  The famous ‘selfie-monkey’ of Tangkoko.
Gorontalo Macaque  Macaca nigrescens  Heard-only, at Gunung Ambang.
Tonkean Macaque  Macaca tonkeana  One seen hiding in a dense tree at Lake Tambing.
Celebes Dwarf Squirrel (Northern D S)  Prosciurillus murinus Regularly seen on Sulawesi.
Sulawesi Giant Squirrel (Red-bellied S)  Rubrisciurus rubriventer  Seen a couple of times at Lore Lindu.