SNOW LEOPARDS & WILDLIFE OF MONGOLIA TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY
Mongolia: Day 1 Our tour begins this morning at Ulaanbaatar airport. Mongolia’s capital is still often known outside Mongolia as Ulan Bator.
(Most group members will arrive on Turkish Airlines via Istanbul, but arrivals this morning are also possible with Korean Airlines via Seoul.)
Ulaanbaatar is a relatively modern if rather chaotic city (with bad traffic jams!) situated in north-central Mongolia. Before the beginning of the 20th century, there were only a few permanent buildings here and in consequence, there are only a few older structures of historical interest.
After transferring to our hotel, where we will spend one night, you can opt to rest after the long journey or spend time looking for birds in the willows and other vegetation along the Tuul (or Tola) River. The beautiful Azure Tit, White-crowned Penduline Tit and Azure-winged Magpie are among the likely finds.
Mongolia: Day 2 From Ulaanbaatar, we will take a flight to Khovd in western Mongolia and then travel southeastwards into the Jargalant Mountains, just a small part of the vast Altai Mountains range, for a seven-night stay in our ger camp.
Mongolia: Days 3-8 The wild mountain scenery of the Altai certainly makes for an awesome backdrop to our quest for the ‘Grey Ghost of the Mountains’! With six full days on the ground, we have plenty of time to search for Snow Leopards and other interesting mammals and birds. Indeed, it would be extremely surprising if we failed to see a Snow Leopard during our visit to the Jargalant as the chances during a six-day visit in the last half of September are close to 100%. At this season there is even a good chance of multiple sightings.
Around 35 Snow Leopards are estimated to inhabit the Jargalant Mountains, a comparatively healthy population. In recent times, persecution has diminished in the area, and the cats have become somewhat less shy. Nonetheless, close encounters of the kind one experiences in late winter and early spring in the Buddhist areas of Ladakh in the northwestern Himalayas are far less frequent, as are the overall number of sightings per week. Most sightings involve watching ‘the cat’ at middle to long range with binoculars or a telescope, and it is unusual to get images, even with a long telephoto, that are more than small.
On the other hand, the viewing and living conditions in the Jargalent are much less demanding. Here, at this time of year, temperatures later in the night are typically around freezing and in the daytime, temperatures are still quite mild for such a high mountain area. Altitudes where we watch for the leopards are much lower, too, being in the range of 2200-2600m (7200-8500ft). Best of all, in the Jargalant, one can typically drive all the way to the viewing areas! Living conditions in our ger camp (see Accommodation) are more comfortable than camping in the wilds in Ladakh and are made easier still by the mild temperatures at this time of year.
Snow Leopards typically have their cubs in June or early July, and by early autumn, the cubs have grown considerably and can leave the den areas, making it possible to spot females with one or more smallish cubs in tow. In addition, Snow Leopards, in general, are starting to descend from their high altitude and less accessible summer haunts towards the lower altitude areas where they will spend the winter. So early autumn tends to be better for sightings than the summer months in the Jargalant.
The main prey of the Snow Leopards of the Jargalant are the Siberian Ibex and the less numerous Argali, the world’s largest wild sheep. Tarbagan (or Siberian) Marmots and other mammals and birds are also regular prey items. Even the sweet little Pallas’s Pika makes for a snack if needs must.
On one of our days, we will drop down to lower altitudes where the arid landscape holds Goitred Gazelles and, in particular, the wonderful Saiga, an antelope with a bulbous nose that would not look out of place on an elephant seal! This area is also a prime habitat for the sought-after Mongolian (or Henderson’s) Ground Jay as well as Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Shrike, Red-cheeked Ground Squirrel and the diurnal Mongolian Gerbil.
Night driving in the area is possible and we will surely want to see the endearing Northern Three-toed and Siberian Jerboas, which often allow a very close approach. We even have a chance for the bandit-masked Steppe Polecat as well as Tolai Hare. Other mammals that we could encounter include Grey Wolf and Red and Corsac Foxes, although the former is rare and shy in the Jargalant owing to persecution by herders.
While we look for Snow Leopards we are going to have some great bird encounters. High on the wants list will be the near-endemic Altai Snowcock, which is pretty straightforward to spot in this area., Other likely species include Chukar, Bearded Vulture (or Lammergeier), Cinereous and Himalayan Vultures, Golden and Steppe Eagles, the superb Saker Falcon, Eurasian Eagle-Owl, Red-billed Chough, Brown Accentor, the showy Güldenstädt’s (or White-winged) Redstart, Black Redstart, Pied Wheatear, Red-throated and Black-throated Thrushes, White-winged Snowfinch, the Asian form of the Twite, Mongolian Finch and Pine Bunting.
Mongolia: Day 9 This morning, we will head back towards Khovd airport, but we will make a detour along the way to the huge Khar Us Nuur (Khar Us Lake), a bird-rich wetland. Among the more interesting birds here are the endangered Dalmatian Pelican, Swan Goose, White-headed Duck and Pallas’s Reed Bunting.
Other likely species at Khar Us include Whooper Swan, Red-crested Pochard, Pallas’s and Mongolian Gulls, and Citrine Wagtail. The dry steppe surroundings hold Isabelline Wheatear and Asian Short-toed Lark.
From Khovd, we will take a flight back to Ulaanbaatar. From the airport, we will travel a comparatively short distance westwards to Khustai (or Hustai) National Park for a two-night stay at a tourist ger camp. Depending on the flight schedule, or any delays, we may arrive in time for some initial exploratrion.
Mongolia: Day 10 Khustai National Park covers some 50,000 hectares of steppe landscape with rocky ridges and light woodland on some slopes and in some valleys. It is a pretty place and, with such open terrain, it is easy to explore.
Przewalski’s (or Przevalski’s) Horses were reintroduced to Hustai from 1992 onwards, and there are now around 400 living in the wild in the park. The species had been declared extinct in the wild in 1969, and it was only thanks to zoos and private collections in the West that the species could be saved from extinction. To this day, Hustai is the only place in the historic range of Przewalski’s Horse where animals have been reintroduced.
Initially, Przewalski’s Horse was considered a separate species of horse, Equus przewalskii, but more recently, genetic studies have shown that Domesticated Horses differ markedly from Wild Horses Equus ferus in having two fewer chromosomes, and they are now separated as Equus caballus, whereas Przewalski’s Horse is now treated as a subspecies of the Wild Horse (the other forms of which are all extinct).
Happily, the horses are straightforward to find, and we will surely come across some stallions with their harems and foals during our visit.
Another prominent mammal species at Hustai is the Red Deer (or Elk), and here they graze in the open steppe rather than sticking to the woodland. We will be there at the height of the rut so we should witness bellowing bulls and maybe witness a fight!
Other likely mammals include Corsac Fox, Mongolian Gazelle, Long-tailed and Daurian Ground Squirrels and the sweet little Brandt’s Vole. The Siberian form of the Roe Deer and Wild Boar are also possible. Grey Wolf occurs at Khustai but is difficult to observe.
Birdlife is interesting and features the attractive Demoiselle Crane, Daurian Partridge, Upland Buzzard, Amur Falcon and the striking Mongolian Lark. Along the river are White-tailed Eagle, Siberian Long-tailed Rosefinch, as well as White-backed Woodpecker.
Mongolia: Day 11 Today, we will transfer to the Pallas’s Cat area in the Khalzan area of eastern Mongolia for a four-night stay.
We will stop along the way at a couple of wetlands that will hold lots of birds., In particular, at this season, we have a pretty good chance of encountering the Endangered Siberian Crane on migration, as well as the lovely White-naped Crane.
Mongolia: Days 12-14 The part of Mongolia we will be exploring is still almost pristine steppe grassland interspersed with rocky outcrops and ridges with areas of elm woodland along the occasional river.
The focus of our visit will, of course, be the wonderful Pallas’s Cat (known as ‘Manul’ in Mongolian). The area we are exploring has a high density of Pallas’s Cats. The cats like the rocky areas that punctuate the steppe, probably because they provide cover when hunting and denning sites for the females in the spring. With the help of our local guide we should have no trouble getting sightings and hopefully some reasonably close ones. Of all the Asian cats, Pallas’s Cat is surely an outstanding one, what with its round pupils and staring yellow eyes combined with its long bushy coat and a strange, Chinese-sage-like face.
Mongolian Gazelles inhabit the area, and spotlighting could turn up Steppe Polecat, Corsac Fox, Tolai Hare and a number of other rodents.
Mongolia: Day 15 Today, we will return to Ulaanbaatar for an overnight stay.
Mongolia: Day 16: Morning tour end at Ulaanbaatar airport.