SNOW LEOPARDS & WILDLIFE OF MONGOLIA TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 1
Our tour begins this morning at Ulaanbaatar (or Ulan Bator) Chinggis Khan airport.
From Ulaanbaatar, you will take a flight to Khovd in western Mongolia and then, after meeting up with those group members who opted to take the Wild Camel Extension, we will all travel southeastwards into the Jargalant Mountains, just a small part of the vast Altai Mountains range, for a seven-night stay in our ger camp.
(Note: If you are taking the main tour but not the extension, you will likely have to arrive in Ulaanbaatar the previous day and overnight. We can arrange a hotel stay and the necessary airport transfers for you on request, or you can opt to make your own arrangements. Ulaanbaatar traffic is unusually heavy for much of the day, so transfers into the city on arrival are generally very slow, taking two and a half hours or more, whereas early morning transfers back out to the airport are rapid, taking around 50 minutes.)
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Days 2-7
The wild mountain scenery of the Altai certainly makes for an awesome backdrop to our quest for the ‘Grey Ghost of the Mountains’! With six full days on the ground, we have plenty of time to search for Snow Leopards and other interesting mammals and birds. Indeed, it would be extremely surprising if we failed to see a Snow Leopard during our visit to the Jargalant, as the chances during a six-day visit in the last half of September are close to 100%. At this season, there is even a good chance of multiple sightings.
Around 35 Snow Leopards are estimated to inhabit the Jargalant Mountains, a comparatively healthy population. In recent times, persecution has diminished in the area, and the cats have become somewhat less shy. Nonetheless, close encounters of the kind one experiences in late winter and early spring in the Buddhist areas of Ladakh in the northwestern Himalayas are far less frequent, as is the overall number of sightings per week. Most sightings involve watching ‘the cat’ at middle to long range with binoculars or a telescope, and it is unusual to get images, even with a long telephoto, that are more than small.
On the other hand, the viewing and living conditions in the Jargalent are much less demanding. Here, at this time of year, temperatures later in the night are typically around freezing and in the daytime, temperatures are still quite mild for such a high mountain area. Altitudes where we watch for the leopards are much lower, too, being in the range of 2200-2600m (7200-8500ft). Best of all, in the Jargalant, one can typically drive all the way to the viewing areas! Living conditions in our ger camp (see Accommodation) are more comfortable than camping in the wilds in Ladakh and are made easier still by the mild temperatures at this time of year.
Snow Leopards typically have their cubs in June or early July, and by early autumn, the cubs have grown considerably and can leave the den areas, making it possible to spot females with one or more smallish cubs in tow. In addition, Snow Leopards, in general, are starting to descend from their high altitude and less accessible summer haunts towards the lower altitude areas where they will spend the winter. So early autumn tends to be better for sightings than the summer months in the Jargalant.
The main prey of the Snow Leopards of the Jargalant are the Siberian Ibex and the less numerous Argali, the world’s largest wild sheep. Tarbagan (or Siberian) Marmots and other mammals and birds are also regular prey items. Even the sweet little Pallas’s Pika makes for a snack if needs must.
On one of our days, we will drop down to lower altitudes where the arid landscape holds Goitred Gazelles and, in particular, the wonderful Saiga, an antelope with a bulbous nose that would not look out of place on an elephant seal! This area is also a prime habitat for the sought-after Mongolian (or Henderson’s) Ground Jay as well as Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Shrike, Red-cheeked Ground Squirrel and the diurnal Mongolian Gerbil.
Night driving in the area is possible, and we will surely want to see the endearing Northern Three-toed and Siberian Jerboas, which often allow a very close approach. We even have a chance for the bandit-masked Steppe Polecat as well as Tolai Hare. Other mammals that we could encounter include Grey Wolf and Red and Corsac Foxes, although the former is rare and shy in the Jargalant owing to persecution by herders.
While we look for Snow Leopards, we are going to have some great bird encounters. High on the wants list will be the near-endemic Altai Snowcock, which is pretty straightforward to spot in this area., Other likely species include Chukar, Bearded Vulture (or Lammergeier), Cinereous and Himalayan Vultures, Golden and Steppe Eagles, the superb Saker Falcon, Eurasian Eagle-Owl, Red-billed Chough, Brown Accentor, the showy Güldenstädt’s (or White-winged) Redstart, Black Redstart, Pied Wheatear, Red-throated and Black-throated Thrushes, White-winged Snowfinch, the Asian form of the Twite, Mongolian Finch and Pine Bunting.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 8
This morning, we will head back towards Khovd airport, but we will make a detour along the way to the huge Khar Us Nuur (Khar Us Lake), a bird-rich wetland. Among the more interesting birds here are the Endangered Dalmatian Pelican and Swan Goose, White-headed Duck and Pallas’s Reed Bunting.
Other likely species at Khar Us include Whooper Swan, Red-crested Pochard, Eurasian Coot, Pallas’s and Mongolian Gulls, and Citrine Wagtail. The dry steppe surroundings hold Isabelline Wheatear and Asian Short-toed Lark.
From Khovd, we will take a flight back to Ulaanbaatar airport. From there, we will travel a comparatively short distance westwards to Khustai (or Hustai) National Park for a two-night stay at a ‘tourist ger camp’. Depending on the flight schedule or any delays, we may arrive in time for some initial exploration.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 9
Khustai National Park covers some 50,000 hectares of steppe landscape with rocky ridges and light woodland on some slopes and in some valleys. It is a pretty place and, with such open terrain, it is easy to explore.
Przewalski’s (or Przevalski’s) Horses were reintroduced to Khustai from 1992 onwards, and there are now around 400 living in the wild in the park. The species had been declared extinct in the wild in 1969, and it was only thanks to zoos and private collections in the West that the species could be saved from extinction. To this day, Khustai is the only place in the historic range of Przewalski’s Horse where animals have been reintroduced.
Initially, Przewalski’s Horse was considered a separate species of horse, Equus przewalskii, but more recently, genetic studies have shown that Domesticated Horses differ markedly from Wild Horses Equus ferus in having two fewer chromosomes, and they are now separated as Equus caballus, whereas Przewalski’s Horse is now treated as a subspecies of the Wild Horse (the other forms of which are all extinct).
Happily, the horses are straightforward to find, and we will surely come across some stallions with their harems and foals during our visit. Sometimes the horses tolerate a fairly close approach, but at other times they are quite shy.
Another prominent mammal species at Khustai is the very large Siberian form of the Red Deer (or Elk), and here they graze in the open steppe rather than sticking to the woodland. We will be there at the height of the rut, so we should witness bellowing bulls and maybe witness a fight!
Other likely mammals include Corsac Fox and Mongolian Gazelle. The Siberian form of the Roe Deer and Wild Boar are also possible. Grey Wolf occurs at Khustai but is difficult to observe.
Birdlife is interesting and features Daurian Partridge, Cinereous Vulture, Upland Buzzard and the striking Mongolian Lark. At this season, many buntings gather in weedy areas, including Little and Rustic Buntings.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 10
After some final exploration at Khustai, we will return to Ulaanbaatar for an overnight stay.
Ulaanbaatar is a relatively modern, if somewhat chaotic, city (with bad traffic jams!) situated in north-central Mongolia. Before the beginning of the 20th century, there were only a few permanent buildings here and in consequence, there are only a few older structures of historical interest.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 11
Today, we will transfer to the Pallas’s Cat area in the Khalzan area of eastern Mongolia for a four-night stay at a ger and chalet camp and Pallas’s Cat research base owned by our local agents.
We will stop along the way at a couple of wetlands that will hold lots of birds., In particular, at this season, we have a pretty good chance of encountering the Endangered Siberian Crane on migration, as well as the lovely White-naped Crane.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Days 12-14
The part of Mongolia we will be exploring is still almost pristine steppe grassland, interspersed with rocky outcrops and ridges, with areas of elm woodland along the occasional river.
The focus of our visit will, of course, be the wonderful Pallas’s Cat (known as ‘Manul’ in Mongolian). Of all the Asian cats, Pallas’s Cat is surely an outstanding one, what with its round pupils and staring yellow eyes combined with its long bushy coat and a strange, Chinese-sage-like face (although a decidedly scowling one!).
The area we are exploring has a high density of Pallas’s Cats. The cats like the rocky areas that punctuate the steppe, probably because they provide cover when hunting and denning sites for the females in the spring. With the help of our local guide, we should have no trouble getting sightings, and we have a very good chance of some close ones. We have even got within a few metres of one fearless individual!
Mongolian Gazelles inhabit the area, and spotlighting could turn up Corsac Fox, Pallas’s Cat, Tolai Hare and perhaps Steppe Polecat. Our ger and chalet camp is alive with sweet little Brandt’s Voles, while the Mongolian Gerbils tend to avoid the camp itself and prefer the sandy areas in the valley bottom.
At this season, migrant birds are passing through the area, and the low trees at the camp, fence lines and vegetated areas along the valleys attract many species. Siberian Accentor and Red-throated, Dusky and Naumann’s Thrushes, all sought-after specialities, are regular and other species are likely to include Pallas’s Warbler, Red-flanked Bluetail and Little, Rustic and Black-faced Buntings.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 15
Today, we will return to Ulaanbaatar for an overnight stay.
Snow Leopards & Wildlife of Mongolia: Day 16
Our tour ends this morning in Ulaanbaatar. A transfer to Chinggis Khan airport will be provided if you are departing today.
(The tour end is designed to coincide with the departure of the Turkish Airlines flight bound for Istanbul.)
WILD CAMEL EXTENSION
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Day 1
The extension begins this morning at Ulaanbaatar (or Ulan Bator).
(It will be possible to fly in this morning with Turkish Airlines from Istanbul if you prefer to avoid a stay in Ulaanbaatar.)
From Ulaanbaatar, we head southwest to the town of Bayankhongor, where we will spend the night in a comfortable hotel.
We will be travelling through typical Mongolian steppelands with occasional rivers and wetlands. The latter will likely hold the Endangered Swan Goose as well as Whooper Swan, Ruddy Shelduck, the handsome Eastern Spot-billed Duck, Mallard, Eurasian Teal, Northern Lapwing, Black Stork, Eurasian Spoonbill, and perhaps some lingering Demoiselle Cranes.
Raptors are quite prominent, and we will soon get used to the remarkable numbers of Cinereous (or Eurasian Black) Vultures that survive in Mongolia, often feeding on carcasses close to the roadsides. Upland Buzzards and Black Kites are also common, and we should also see our first Steppe Eagles and Saker Falcons.
The big Mongolian Lark with its dramatic white wing panel will be commonly seen, and other birds likely to be seen today include Eurasian Magpie, Red-billed Chough, Rook, Carrion Crow, Northern Raven, Horned and Asian Short-toed Larks, Barn Swallow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White Wagtail and Twite.
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Day 2
As we traverse the vast landscapes of Mongolia between Bayankhongor and Great Gobi A National Park, we will see the steppes give way to the Gobi Desert. The transition from moist steppe to desert is slow at first, but before long, the aridity increases markedly, and the grassy steppes and mountains give way to harsh vistas of black or brown, vegetationless hills, some rising sentinel-like from the wide plains, and endless stony expanses or sandier areas with low desert bushes.
We are not likely to see many new birds or mammals today, but we will be on the lookout for Hill Pigeon, Isabelline, Desert and Pied Wheatears, and Alashan Ground Squirrel.
Eventually, we will reach the edge of the park, where we will camp at an oasis for three nights.
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Days 3-4
Great Gobi A Strictly Protected Area comprises a huge area of desert terrain to the south of the Altai Mountains and north of Mongolia’s border with China. Here are stony and sandy plains, areas of sand dunes and saxaul woodlands. Great Gobi A (as opposed to the much smaller B section of the reserve further west) protects an area of 46,369 square kilometres (or 17,903 square miles), making it one of the largest reserves on Earth!
The park is most famous as one of the last haunts of the Wild Camel. Away from Great Gobi A, this Critically Endangered species, which is now reduced to only around 950 individuals or fewer, is restricted to a few reserves in northwestern China. Interestingly, the Wild Camel Camelus ferus is now known to be a completely different species from the domesticated Bactrian Camel Camelus bactrianus, the two having diverged from a common ancestor over 750,000 years ago! Wild Camels are smaller and thinner, with flatter heads (indeed, the Mongolian name Havtagai means ‘flat head’) and have smaller, more conical humps. Amazingly, Wild Camels can survive on very saline water (even more saline than seawater!) that no other mammal can tolerate, not even Bactrian Camels!
Although our prime target at Great Gobi is, of course, the Wild Camel, we can also expect to encounter the Mongolian Kulan or Mongolian Wild Ass, which is still quite common in the area. Grey Wolves sometimes prey on both species, but more usually on Goitred Gazelles. They are scarce and elusive, and we would be lucky to see one during our visit. Other likely mammals include the appropriately named Great Gerbil, a diurnal, colonial species. Spotlighting may turn up Red Fox, Long-eared Hedgehog and Hairy-footed (or Northern Three-toed) Jerboa.
Among the more notable birds of the area may well be Blyth’s Pipit, ‘Steppe’ Grey Shrike, Isabelline Shrike, Mongolian (or Henderson’s) Ground Jay, Asian Desert Warbler, and Black-throated and Red-throated Thrushes.
More widespread species are likely to include Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Green and Common Sandpipers, Oriental Turtle Dove, Eurasian Collared Dove, Common Kestrel, Eurasian Hobby, Citrine and Grey Wagtails, Tree Pipit, Crested Lark and Common Rosefinch.
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Day 5
After some final exploration of the Gobi, we will head north, passing through some wild hills along the way, until we reach Boon Tsagaan Nuur, where we will camp overnight.
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Day 6
Boon Tsagaan Nuur, a huge lake, lies in the intermontane basin between the Gobi Altai range in the south and the Khangay range in the north.
There are usually lots of waterbirds and other species present, including Great Crested Grebe, Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, Common Shelduck, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Eurasian Wigeon, Mallared, Northern OPintail, Ferruginous Duck, Coimmon Goldeneye, Common Crane, Black-winged Stilt, Pied Avocet, Grey (or Black-bellied) Ploiver, Pacific Golden Plover, Kentish Plover, Eurasian Curlew, ‘Eastern’ Black-tailed Godwit, Common Snipe, Common and Spotted Redshanks, Ruff, Wood and Curlew Sandpipers, Temminck’s and Little Stints, Dunlin, Caspian and Common Terns, Pallas’s, Black-headed, Common and Mongoplian Gulls (and perhaps our firtst Relict Gull), huge numbers of Great Cormorants, Great Egret, the uncommon and declining Dalmatian Pelican, Little Owl, Sand Martin,
Afterwards, we will cross a river (quite a fun experience in our sturdy 4x4s!) and then make our way north on dirt roads across the steppe (looking out for Pallid Ground Squirrel along the way) until we join the main Ulaanbaatar to Khovd highway. It will be a surprise (a nice one!) to be on a tar road again after our travels in the Gobi, and soon we will reach the town of Govi Altai, where a comfortable hotel and a hot shower beckon.
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Day 7
We will set off early and be out in the steppe in time to see hundreds of Pallas’s Sandgrouse come to drink at a small river. It is quite a spectacle as flock after flock fly in, waddle down to the water, take a short but deep drink and then rapidly fly off deep into the arid wastes, where they will forage for the rest of the day.
Not far away, we could well come across our first Saiga Antelopes, although they are shy in this part of Mongolia, so getting close is tricky.
Further to the north lies Ikhes Nuur, a large lake that is one of the few known nesting places for the rare Relict Gull. There should still be some present in the area.
Afterwards, we will continue northwards to the town of Khov, the ‘capital’ of Western Mongolia, for a two-night stay, stopping off at some small, bird-rich wetlands along the way.
Mongolia (Wild Camel): Day 8
This morning, we will visit an area of hills and scrub in the Khovd region that, at this time of year, usually holds some Kozlov’s (or Mongolian) Accentors. This near-endemic breeds in the arid mountains of southern and central Mongolia and some disperse as far as northernmost China in winter (whether they breed in China is not yet established).
During the afternoon, we will pay a first visit to the huge Khar Us wetlands (see the main tour for more information).
Mongolia (Wild Camel: Day 9
We will have time to explore the vicinity of Khovd this morning before it is time to head for the tiny airport and await the flight from Ulaanbaatar that will bring those arriving for the main tour.