The Ultimate In Birding Tours


WESTERN INDIA – Extraordinary Specialities in an Extraordinary Land

Monday 7th February – Thursday 24th February 2022

Leader: Julien Mazenauer and a local bird guide

18 Days Group Size Limit 7


Birdquest’s Western India birding tours are the ‘alternative Northern India’ birding tours we pioneered and which take in an extraordinary array of wonderful speciality birds as we journey from the Punjab south through the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat to Maharashtra. Our Western India birding tour features such great birds as Rock Bush Quail, Indian Vulture, Indian Bustard, Macqueen’s Bustard, Demoiselle Cranes by the thousands, Painted Sandgrouse, Yellow-eyed Dove, the famous Forest Owlet, the magnificent Mottled Wood Owl, Pallid Scops Owl, Sykes’s Nightjar, Laggar Falcon, Sykes’s Lark, White-bellied Minivet, Marshall’s Iora, Brooks’s Leaf Warbler, Mountain Chiffchaff, Rufous-vented and Rufous-fronted Prinias, Stoliczka’s (or White-browed) Bushchat, Variable and Red-tailed Wheatears, Jerdon’s Babbler, White-naped Tit, Indian Spotted Creeper, Vigors’s Sunbird, Green Avadavat, Black-breasted Weaver, Sind Sparrow and the sought-after Crab-plover and Grey Hypocolius, the sole members of their respective bird families.

If you should visit anywhere in India fast, Rajasthan and the west has to take priority as it is home to the last major concentration of India’s most emblematic yet critically endangered bird, the magnificent Indian Bustard. This species has declined by over 80% in the last 50 years and it is estimated it could be effectively extinct within 15 years if the present rate of attrition from habitat degradation and hunting continues! We must all hope the disaster of extinction can still be avoided, but in the meantime we are still seeing this bird on every Birdquest tour to the region, not least because we are now the only company that allows extra time in our itinerary to find it.

Of all the bird-rich regions of the vast Indian subcontinent, it is the arid northwest that holds the greatest diversity of endemic species. During this unique itinerary, which is designed to focus on the many speciality birds of the region, we will visit the Punjab, situated at the base of the Himalayas, the desert state of Rajasthan, Gujarat, and finally Maharashtra.

Our Western India tour starts at Amritsar, the holy city of the Sikhs, situated in the Punjab. The Punjab, the ‘Land of the Five Rivers’, is nowadays divided between India and Pakistan.

Here we shall see a rarely visited part of India as we explore the wetland reserve of Harike on the River Sutlej, a place that is still ‘undiscovered’ but which offers some great birding. As well as a superb array of waterbirds, Harike offers wintering Mountain Chiffchaffs from Central Asia and also specialities of the Indo-Gangetic plains such as Rufous-vented Prinia, Jerdon’s Babbler (of the geographically isolated Indus form which may well represent a distinct species), Striated Babbler, Sind Sparrow and Black-breasted Weaver. We will also pay a short visit to the famous Golden Temple of the Sikhs in Amritsar.

As our Western India tour heads south, we come to the huge, largely desert, state of Rajasthan. Rajasthan with its turbulent history, warring yet cultured rulers and extraordinary cities and fortresses is surely the region that epitomizes the romantic India of a bygone era. Here the Moghul emperors constantly battled for supremacy with the local rulers, who in turn fought each other whenever they were not having to face an outside threat. The riches they accumulated were used to build awesome strongholds in the hills and some of the most fabulous palaces ever constructed. Their lives and times seem like a fairy tale to we inhabitants of a much more crowded and less simple era, but they live on in the remarkable monuments they built that now emblazon India’s rich architectural heritage.

For most birders who have travelled in India, or who have dreamed of going there, Bharatpur and Ranthambhore sanctuaries are the places they associate with Rajasthan, but this huge state extends far to the west, where other remarkable places await the travelling naturalist.

We will start our Rajasthani adventure in the Tal Chappar and Bikaner region in the northwestern part of the state, where the localized Indian Spotted Creeper can regularly be found and where Yellow-eyed Doves from Central Asia winter.

After that we will travel far out into the Thar Desert to experience the extraordinary spectacle of thousands of fearless Demoiselle Cranes right next to us at the village of Khichan, something few birders have so far witnessed.

Moving still further into the Thar, we will look for the critically endangered Indian Bustard and for Stoliczka’s Bushchat close to the romantic desert citadel of Jaisalmer. Other specialities of the desert include the splendid Laggar Falcon, Rufous-fronted Prinia and Red-tailed Wheatear.

Continuing further south, we will pause to hunt for the critically endangered Indian Vulture, Rock Bush Quail, Painted Sandgrouse, Sirkeer Malkoha, Indian Eagle-Owl, the rare White-bellied Minivet and possibly even Leopard around the small village of Siana.

From here we will travel to Mount Abu in the rugged Aravalli Hills, where we will look for the little-known Green Avadavat as well as Red Spurfowl, Indian Scimitar Babbler and many other birds before ending our journey through Rajasthan.

To the south of Rajasthan lies the state of Gujarat, bordering India’s Arabian Sea coast. Here we first explore the vast saline flats of the Little Rann of Kutch, famous for its herds of Indian Wild Ass (or Onager), and also home to some great birds including Lesser Flamingo, Macqueen’s Bustard, Indian Courser, Yellow-wattled Lapwing and the little-known Sykes’s Nightjar.

After that we will head westwards to Kutch, the most westerly region of India. Our visit to Kutch will be one of the highlights of our journey through western India, for this once-remote region harbours some very special birds, including the striking Crab-Plover, Sykes’s Lark, Marshall’s Iora, the strange Grey Hypocolius (a must-see bird for all family collectors) and the rare and endangered White-naped Tit, all of which we can expect to see well during our explorations!

Finally, we shall go in search of the little-known Forest Owlet at Tansa Wildlife Sanctuary in Maharashtra state in west-central India. Only recently rediscovered after a gap of over 100 years, Melghat has been found to hold the largest known concentration of this enigmatic species. This rarely visited sanctuary is also a great place for seeing the sought-after Mottled Wood Owl and the localized endemic Vigors’s Sunbird.

By the time we return home we will have seen a superb series of Indian subcontinent specialities as well as a rich variety of more widespread birds, not to mention some of the greatest architectural monuments in all India.

Birdquest has operated Western India birding tours since 1985.

What makes the Birdquest Western India tour special? As well as having the most comprehensive itinerary, the Birdquest Western India tour is unique in having up to three mornings to look for the rapidly declining and now critically endangered Indian Bustard, which can nowadays be difficult to find. You don’t want to miss this very special bird!

Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels are of good standard, but a few guesthouses in remote areas are fairly simple. All rooms have private bathrooms. Road transport is mainly by small coach or car, but we use jeeps or open-sided trucks to explore a few areas. Roads are variable in quality.

Walking: The walking effort during our Western India tour is mostly easy, but there are a few longer walks in flat terrain in Punjab and Rajasthan.

Climate: Typically it will be cool to warm, dry and sunny (although early mornings are sometimes cold). Although overcast weather is not infrequent, rain is uncommon at this season.

Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities during our Western India tour are good.


  • Looking for Rufous-vented Prinia, Jerdon's Babbler and Sind Sparrow at Harike with Sikh priests chanting in the background
  • The Golden Temple of Amritsar at dusk
  • All those eagles and Yellow-eyed Doves at Bikaner
  • The extraordinary spectacle of thousands of Demoiselle Cranes at Kichan
  • Great Indian Bustards and Stolizck'a Bushchats at Desert National Park
  • The golden walls, citadel and temples of Jaisalmer before sunset
  • Searching for Painted Sandgrouse, Rock Bush Quail and White-bellied Minivet in the scenic hills of Siana
  • Perky little Green Avadavats at Mount Abu, a great rarity
  • Indian Wild Asses, Macqueen's Bustard and Sykes's Nightjar in the Little Rann of Kutch
  • The strange Grey Hypocolius at close range in Kutch
  • The rare and attractive White-naped Tit at one of its last strongholds
  • Strikingly-plumaged Crab-plovers on the shores of the Indian Ocean
  • The rediscovered Forest Owlet, in the daytime, at Tansa. A bird 'lost' for a century!


  • Days 1-2: Amritsar. Harike wetlands and Golden Temple.
  • Day 3: To Tal Chappar via Harike.
  • Day 4: Tal Chappar. Overnight Bikaner.
  • Day 5: Bikaner to Jaisalmer via Demoiselle Cranes of Khichan.
  • Days 6-7: Desert National Park and Jaisalmer.
  • Day 8: Jaisamer to Siana.
  • Day 9: Siana.
  • Day 10: Siana to Mount Abu.
  • Day 11: Mount Abu to Zainabad, Little Rann of Kutch.
  • Day 12: Little Rann of Kutch.
  • Day 13: Zainabad to Bhuj.
  • Days 14-15: Kutch. Overnights near Bhuj.
  • Day 16: Kutch, then flight to Mumbai and drive to Tansa.
  • Day 17: Tansa Wildlife Sanctuary.
  • Day 18: Tansa and return to Mumbai.

To see a larger map, click on the square-like ‘enlarge’ icon in the upper right of the map box.

To see (or hide) the ‘map legend’, click on the icon with an arrow in the upper left of the map box.

To change to a satellite view, which is great for seeing the physical terrain (and for seeing really fine details by repetitive use of the + button), click on the square ‘map view’ icon in the lower left corner of the ‘map legend’.


Birdquest Inclusions: Our tour prices include surface transportation, accommodations, meals and entrance fees.

We also include all tipping for local guides, drivers and accommodation/restaurant staff.

We also include this flight: Bhuj-Mumbai.

Deposit: 20% of the total tour price. Our office will let you know what deposit amount is due, in order to confirm your booking, following receipt of your online booking form.

TO BOOK THIS TOUR: Click here (you will need the tour dates)

2022: provisional £3750, $5250, €4300, AUD6770. Amritsar/Mumbai.

Single Supplement: 2022: £450, $640, €520, AUD820.

The single supplement will not apply if you indicate on booking that you prefer to share a room and there is a room-mate of the same sex available.

This tour is priced in US Dollars. Amounts shown in other currencies are indicative.

Air Travel To & From The Tour: Our in-house IATA ticket agency will be pleased to arrange your air travel on request, or you may arrange this yourself if you prefer.


Western India: Day 1  Our tour begins this afternoon at Amritsar in India’s Punjab, where we will stay for two nights in the holy city of the Sikhs.

(There are some direct international connections into Amritsar, but we can easily book you an internal flight from Delhi or Mumbai on request, even if we are not arranging your international flights.)

Around sunset, those who wish can visit the famous Golden Temple in Amritsar, the holiest place of the Sikh religion. It is a moving place to visit, being both very beautiful and so obviously of deep spiritual significance to the many Sikh pilgrims that come here every day. As one enters, bare-footed, the temple compound, the Golden Temple (or Harmandir) itself, which lies in the middle of a lake, glows like a golden boat rising from the waters, contrasting with the white marble of the rest of the temple precinct. The beautiful singing of the priests attending the Granth Sahib, the holy book of the Sikh religion, carries throughout the complex, adding to the intensity of the moment. We can join the pilgrims as they make their way to the Harmandir to see the great book itself.

Western India: Day 2  The entire day will be spent birding at the Harike wetlands to the south of the city.

The extensive but as yet infrequently visited Harike wetlands were formed by the creation of an irrigation barrage on the River Sutlej, one of the five great rivers of the Punjab (which derives from the local words for ‘five rivers’). Above the barrage is a large lake and the slow-flowing channels of the Sutlej and its tributary the Beas, fringed by large marshes. At dawn a light mist often hangs over the Harike wetlands, and as the new day begins we will hear the beautiful singing and accompanying music of the sunrise prayers at an attractive Sikh temple that is situated right on the edge of the lake. As the sun rises a huge and noisy roosting flight of House Crows, Common and Bank Mynas, and Asian Pied Starlings passes overhead.

As we explore the Harike area we will be looking out in particular for nine specialities of Harike; Sand Lark, White-tailed Stonechat, the restricted-range and threatened Rufous-vented Prinia (which favours the denser reed and cane growth), the patchily-distributed Moustached Warbler, Mountain Chiffchaff (a winter visitor from the Pamirs and surrounding region), the restricted-range Jerdon’s Babbler (here of the Indus form, geographically isolated from the range in NE India and quite possibly a distinct species), Striated Babbler, the restricted-range Sind Sparrow and Black-breasted Weaver.

As we examine the rich wetlands we shall see a superb variety of waterbirds, including Little Grebe, Great, Indian and Little Cormorants, Oriental Darter, Little, Great, Intermediate and Eastern Cattle Egrets, Grey and Purple Herons, Indian Pond Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Glossy Ibis, Greylag Goose (and perhaps the handsome Bar-headed Goose), Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Eurasian Teal, Mallard, Indian Spot-billed, Ferruginous and Tufted Ducks, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Red-crested and Common Pochards (and perhaps Red-crested Pochard), White-breasted Waterhen, Grey-headed Swamphen, Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coot, Black-winged Stilt, Red-wattled Lapwing, the elegant White-tailed Lapwing, Ruff, Common Snipe, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Green and Common Sandpipers, Pallas’s (or Great Black-headed), Lesser Black-backed Gull, Brown-headed and Black-headed Gulls, and River and Whiskered Terns.

Raptors are frequently observed, and may well include Black-shouldered Kite, Black Kite, Western Marsh Harrier, Shikra, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Greater Spotted Eagle and Common Kestrel. There is even a chance of the uncommon, restricted-range Indian Spotted Eagle.

In the small patches of shisham and acacia woodland, along the wooded bunds, or in open areas, we may well come across at least two or three of the more uncommon wintering passerines, which include Olive-backed and Rosy Pipits, Long-tailed Minivet, the little-known Brook’s Leaf Warbler (a northwestern Himalayan breeding species), Black-throated Thrush, White-crowned Penduline Tit and Bar-tailed Treecreeper.

Widespread species we should encounter at Harike include Grey Francolin, Eurasian Collared and Laughing Doves, Greater Coucal, Rose-ringed (or Ring-necked) Parakeet, Spotted Owlet, White-throated and Pied Kingfishers, Indian Grey Hornbill, Black-rumped Flameback, Oriental Skylark, Grey-throated Sand Martin, White-browed, White, Citrine and Western Yellow Wagtails, Red-vented Bulbul, Common Woodshrike, Bluethroat, Siberian Stonechat, Indian Robin, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Yellow-bellied and Plain Prinias, Common Tailorbird, Clamorous Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Hume’s Leaf Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Striated Grassbird, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Jungle Babbler, Long-tailed Shrike, Rufous Treepie, Black Drongo, Purple Sunbird and Oriental White-eye. With luck, we will also come across Streaked Weaver.

Western India: Day 3  Today we will head southwest towards Rajasthan, eventually reaching Tal Chappar, situated to the east of Bikaner, where we will stay overnight. There will be some more birding at Harike en route and we are sure to see the declining Red-naped Ibis and our first Indian Peafowls and Indian Rollers along the way.

Western India: Day 4  At Tal Chappar Wildlife Sanctuary our major target will be the localized endemic Indian Spotted Creeper (which we have a very good chance of seeing). We also have our first opportunity to find the restricted-range Stoliczka’s (or White-browed) Bushchat. There is also a good chance for Black Francolin. Tal Chappar’s principal purpose is to protect a large population of the magnificent Blackbuck, India’s most impressive antelope, which we will be able to admire during our visit.

Raptors are still common in this part of India and we can expect to find Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, the hulking Eurasian Black Vulture, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Laggar Falcon and perhaps Red-necked Falcon. We will also encounter a number of passerines typical of the Thar Desert such as White-eared Bulbul, Southern Grey Shrike, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Brown Rock Chat, Common Babbler and Brahminy Starling.

After an enjoyable day’s birding, we will transfer to the city of Bikaner for an overnight stay.

Western India: Day 5  This morning we will visit an area outside Bikaner that attracts large numbers of wintering Yellow-eyed Doves from Central Asia (we should enjoy good views of this declining and endangered bird, right down to the broad yellow orbital ring) and where numerous Steppe Eagles, Black Kites and other raptors roost, providing extraordinary views and photographic opportunities.

From Bikaner we will head southwestwards to the town of Phalodi. The small village of Khichan lies not far from Phalodi. Here, between autumn and early spring, thousands of Demoiselle Cranes from the steppes of Central Asia and Mongolia gather to live alongside mankind in extraordinary harmony. This amazing event, one of the great avian spectacles of Asia, owes its existence to the custom of the people of Khichan to put out grain for the cranes on the edge of the village. So long has this tradition lasted, and so strongly is the reverence for the birds amongst the local community, that even nowadays, long after the merchant wealth from the trans-Thar camel trade that once made Khichan prosperous has ebbed away, the local people still continue. Today they rely on donations from distant clansmen in Bombay, Delhi, London or New York, as well as visitors such as ourselves, to cover the huge sum involved in putting out vast quantities of grain from October to March.

At any one time between 3000-8000 cranes congregate at the village, making for an extraordinary spectacle. Twice each day (morning and afternoon) the birds gather on the nearby dunes before flighting in to feed on the scattered grain. At first parties fly over without landing, but then they move in, en masse, to feed. The cacophony of noise as the flocks of bugling cranes wheel close overhead before landing, or the roar of wings when a ‘dread’ affects the feeding mass and they take off like one gigantic organism has to be experienced to be appreciated. After feeding the cranes retreat to rest on the dunes once more, their soft silver-grey plumage contrasting beautifully with the dull orange of the sands. To have been so close to thousands of wild cranes is an extraordinary privilege, and we shall all feel glad that we made the pilgrimage to Khichan. Afterwards, we will head for the desert city of Jaisalmer for a three nights stay in the area, arriving quite late as we need to be at Khichan until late afternoon.

Western India: Days 6-7  The main focus of our explorations will be Desert National Park to the southwest of the town. Here a large fenced area protects the natural grassland with scattered bushes and trees from excessive grazing by cattle (something which is the norm elsewhere).

The primary role of the park is to protect the huge and highly endangered Indian Bustard, a number of which occur in the area (both inside and outside the enclosure). Watching such huge birds wandering across the desert landscape will be one of the highlights of our journey through India’s arid northwest.

The species is declining fast and is not as easy to find in the area as it once was, so two days at Jaisalmer (and a backup third morning if need be!) is now crucial to making sure one has a very high chance of success with this ‘mega-bird’. This is not a bird one wants to miss!

The other star attraction of the ‘DNP’ is the localized Stoliczka’s (or White-browed) Bushchat, a species restricted to the Thar Desert and its vicinity. We should be able to watch one of these fascinating little birds doing its strange breast-pouting movements as it stalks along on the ground.

Raptors are still fairly common in the area and we may well encounter White-rumped and Red-headed Vultures, Short-toed and Tawny Eagles, Long-legged Buzzard and Laggar Falcon. Other species that we are likely to find include Cream-coloured Courser, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (and sometimes Black-bellied Sandgrouse), Green Bee-eater, Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark, Bimaculated and Greater Short-toed Larks, Isabelline Wheatear, Graceful Prinia, Asian Desert Warbler, Desert Whitethroat, Isabelline Shrike, Common Raven and Indian Silverbill. Indian Gazelles (or Chinkara) are common in the park.

We will also visit an area where a few low, sparsely-scrubbed, rocky ridges break up the monotony of these flat desert lands and here we should find Desert Lark, Rufous-fronted Prinia and Red-tailed Wheatear.

There will be an opportunity late one afternoon to explore the beautiful and romantic citadel, which dominates the town and can be seen from long distances across the flat surrounding countryside. The whole place still has a medieval feeling about it, what with its crenulated golden sandstone walls, beautiful Jain temples and narrow, winding streets lined by exquisitely carved ‘havelis’ (the houses of the merchants and officials).

Western India: Day 8  Today we will make our way to the little village of Siana, situated in the Jalor region, for a two nights stay. We should arrive in time for lunch and will commence our exploration of the area during the afternoon. (If we need to, we can look for the bustard again in the Jaisalmer region before we depart.)

Western India: Day 9  The area around Siana, which consists of dry desert plains and rocky desert hills rising dramatically out of the plains, partly clothed in scrub jungle, also provides great birding.

Specialities of the Indian Subcontinent’s arid zone include the critically endangered Indian (or Long-billed) Vulture, Indian Stone-curlew, Rock Bush Quail, Painted Sandgrouse, the skulking Sirkeer Malkoha, the impressive Indian (or Rock) Eagle Owl, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark, Indian Bushlark, the uncommon and nomadic White-bellied Minivet, Large Grey Babbler and Bay-backed Shrike.

More widespread species include Red Collared Dove, Indian Scops Owl, Little Swift, Eurasian Hoopoe, Dusky Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Small Minivet, Black Redstart, White-browed Fantail, Chestnut-shouldered (or Yellow-throated) Sparrow and Striolated Bunting.

The village of Siana featured in David Attenborough’s epic Life of Mammals as the place where a Leopard wandered at night past the silent houses, and indeed this used to be one of the best places in India to look for this splendid creature. Sadly sightings are nowadays nothing like as frequent as they once were, but we will still go out in jeeps to look. We should see Jungle Cat and there is even a realistic if slim chance for Striped Hyaena and Wolf as well.

Western India: Day 10  After some early morning birding around Siana we will drive to Mount Abu at the southern end of the Aravalli Mountains for an overnight stay. Mount Abu is a small hill station situated below the summit of the mountain of the same name, which at 1722m is the highest peak in the Aravalli range. This afternoon we will commence our exploration of the area.

Mount Abu is one of the few places in all India where the rare and endangered Green Avadavat has been recorded in recent times. We have a good chance of finding a flock of these little-known birds.

Other species we may well encounter include Red Spurfowl and Indian Scimitar Babbler (both restricted to Peninsular India), as well as Crested Hawk-Eagle, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets, Brown-capped Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, Common Iora, Ashy and Grey-breasted Prinias, Sulphur-bellied Warbler, White-spotted Fantail, Yellow-eyed Babbler, Grey and Indian Yellow Tits, Indian Jungle Crow, Ashy and White-bellied Drongo, Common Rosefinch and Crested and White-capped Buntings.

Less easy to find is Grey Junglefowl, a species characteristic of Peninsular India that is at the edge of its distribution in this area.

We will also encounter Hanuman Langurs (the local form now sometimes split as Northern Plains Grey Langur).

Western India: Day 11  After some final birding at Mount Abu, we head south to the state of Gujarat. Our destination the small village of Zainabad at the eastern edge of the Little Rann of Kutch, where we will stay for two nights. We should arrive in  time for some initial exploration.

Western India: Day 12  At its southern edge the Thar Desert gradually gives way to the vast saline flats that form the Great Rann of Kutch and the Little Rann of Kutch. These flats, which were once part of the Gulf of Kutch (it is said Alexander the Great embarked from a port in the gulf at the end of his abortive campaign to conquer northwestern India), are still inundated by the sea during the monsoon months.

The Little Rann of Kutch is the last stronghold of the Indian Wild Ass (or Onager), which is now protected by the 4954 square kilometres of the Wild Ass Wildlife Sanctuary. The open flats of the Rann are a wild place, but offer little in the way of sustenance, even to a wild ass, but the bushy and grassy areas towards its periphery are a different matter and here we shall surely encounter a good number of attractive Indian Wild Asses and very likely a few wintering Macqueen’s Bustards from Central Asia, although an extraordinary level of persecution by falconers from Arabia has brought their population to a perilously low ebb.

At the very edge of the Little Rann are some bird-rich wetlands and here we are likely to encounter large numbers of Lesser Flamingoes (this region of India is the only area outside Africa where this species breeds), as well as smaller numbers of Greater Flamingoes plus Great White Pelican, the endangered Dalmatian Pelican, Western Reef Egret, Black-headed Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Woolly-necked Stork, the attractive Painted Stork, Asian Openbill (an extraordinary stork with a bill adapted to cracking the shells of pond snails), Knob-billed Duck, Garganey, flocks of Common Cranes (and sometimes Demoiselle Cranes), the stately Sarus Crane (nowadays uncommon), Pied Avocet, Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers, Little and Temminck’s Stints, Eurasian Curlew, Black-tailed Godwit, Spotted Redshank, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, Slender-billed Gull and Gull-billed Tern. With luck, we will also come across some Small Pratincoles.

Areas of dry cultivation and wasteland hold two more specialities, the attractive Yellow-wattled Lapwing and the beautiful Indian Courser. (Sociable Lapwings sometimes winter in fields in the area, although they typically disperse away by this time of year.) Other new birds are likely to include Montagu’s and Pallid Harriers, Common Quail, Rufous-tailed and Crested Larks, Barn Swallow, Paddyfield Pipit, Pied Bushchat, Rosy Starling (often in large, very approachable flocks at the edge of villages) and Baya Weaver.

In recent years one or two Pallid (or Striated) Scops Owls have wintered in the lodge grounds. After dark, we can drive around the dusty roads until we find the little-known Sykes’s Nightjar, which is mostly a winter visitor to this part of India from breeding areas further north (and largely in Pakistan). We should also see Indian Nightjar and, with luck, Common (or Small) Buttonquail.

Western India: Day 13  This morning we will head westwards to the once-remote but now steadily modernising region of Kutch for a three nights stay at Nakhatrana in the Bhuj region. We will stop along the way to examine some coastal wetlands where we should find Great Thick-knee as well as Greater Sand Plover. This afternoon we will begin our exploration of Kutch.

Western India: Days 14-15  Kutch offers great birding, both inland amidst its largely arid landscapes and along its Arabian Sea coastline. Some very special birds occur here and this is the only part of India where the strange Grey Hypocolius, the sole member of its family, overwinters. (The species breeds largely in Iraq and Iran.) We will be visiting a reliable site where the birds gather to feed on small berries, especially early in the morning.

Kutch is also famous as the most reliable place to find the handsome, endemic but now rare, declining and endangered White-naped Tit. We know several good areas of dry acacia woodland where this species occurs, so we should be able to admire these rarely-seen birds as they forage amongst the trees, regularly uttering their characteristic calls.

The uncommon and localized Indian-endemic Marshall’s Iora is surprisingly easy to find in this same habitat. A fourth speciality passerine of Kutch is the uncommon Sykes’s Lark, another Indian endemic which favours grassy and rocky areas. Just to add to the excitement, wintering Sykes’s Warbler is regularly to be found in the woodland and Grey-necked Buntings winter here in good numbers. We also have a second chance for Painted Sandgrouse, Indian Eagle-Owl and White-bellied Minivet, should we have missed any of these at Siana. The uncommon Jungle Prinia is another target in this area.

A visit to the coast will come as a pleasant contrast to the dry woodlands and other habitats of interior Kutch. Here, amongst the sandy beaches and mudflats, we should find the spectacular Crab-plover, the sole member of its family, while other new birds are likely to include Grey (or Black-bellied) and Lesser Sand Plovers, Sanderling, Terek and Broad-billed Sandpipers, Bar-tailed Godwit and Little Tern. The Sand Larks here are of a different race to those in the Punjab.

Western India: Day 16  After some final birding in Kutch, we take a flight from Bhuj to Mumbai (formerly Bombay)  and then drive northeastwards, into the Western Ghats range, to the Tansa area for a two nights stay. This afternoon we will commence our exploration of the area.

Western India: Day 17  Tansa Wildlife Sanctuary protects a large tract of natural habitat in the Western Ghats mountain range that runs from north to south along the western coastal region of India. There are extensive forests of Teak and Sal, with evergreen broadleaf woodland in the more well-watered valleys.

Tansa is one of the best places for seeing the rare endemic Forest Owlet. This enigmatic species was, until it was rediscovered in northwest Maharashtra in the 1990s, known only from a few specimens taken in the late 19th century in the Satpura Range, from what is now Maharashtra to Orissa in east-central India. It is this species in particular that draws us to this area, and with persistence, we have an excellent chance of finding at least one during our visit. Forest Owlet is most unusual in being a diurnal species, perching prominently out in the open until quite late in the morning and again in the late afternoon, as it waits for small reptiles or other potential prey to appear.

Other mega-specialities at Tansa are the superb, restricted-range Mottled Wood Owl (which is positively common at Tansa!) and the lovely endemic Vigors’s Sunbird, species recorded on very few Indian birding itineraries. The latter is restricted to the northern and central Western Ghats.

Additional species that we may well come across include the handsome, restricted-range White-naped Woodpecker and Jerdon’s Leafbird, as well as Crested Serpent Eagle, White-eyed Buzzard, Alpine Swift, the fierce little Jungle Owlet, Savanna Nightjar, Crested Treeswift, Black-hooded Oriole, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Indian Paradise Flycatcher, Blyth’s Reed and Greenish Warblers, Taiga (or Red-throated), Ultramarine and Tickell’s Blue Flycatchers, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Golden-fronted Leafbird, and Thick-billed and Pale-billed Flowerpeckers . Rhesus Macaques are quite common here.

Less common species, of which we should see a number during our visit, include such Peninsular Indian specialities as the lovely Malabar Trogon and Malabar Parakeet, as well as Jungle Bush Quail, the impressive Black Eagle, Common Hawk-Cuckoo, Jungle Nightjar, Large Cuckooshrike, Western Crowned and Green (or Bright-green) Warblers, Tawny-bellied Babbler and Indian Golden Oriole.

Western India: Day 18  After spending much of the day at Tansa we will head for Mumbai airport, where our tour ends in the evening after a farewell dinner and a chance to freshen up.

Most international flight connections to Europe or North America leave Mumbai during the late evening or after midnight, but a few airlines offer day flights. We can make an hotel reservation for you near Mumbai airport on request.


by Hannu Jännes

View Report


by Hannu Jännes

View Report


View Report


by Hannu Jännes

View Report

Other India and region birding tours by Birdquest include: