CAPE VERDE ISLANDS BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY
Cape Verde Islands: Day 1 The tour begins late this evening on the island of Santiago, where we will stay overnight. After arrival at Praia Airport, we will be transferred to our hotel.
(Most international flights to Praia route via Lisbon in Portugal.)
Cape Verde Islands: Days 2-11 During these days we will be based on the islands of Santiago, Fogo, São Nicolau and Sal, the order in which the islands are explored and the time spent on each will depend on the inter-island flight timetable in operation at the time of the tour.
SANTIAGO
Santiago is the largest of the islands and is certainly the most developed and prosperous. Praia, the small capital city of the Cape Verde Islands, is situated at the southeastern end of Santiago. As with all the islands, the inhabitants are a ‘Creole’ mixture of Portuguese and West African, but here African influences are strongest. Living standards are very low in the islands, but Santiago is blessed with more rainfall than most and has numerous small farms and plantations. The better-watered valleys of the island, with their comparatively luxuriant vegetation, are the habitat beloved of Grey-headed Kingfisher and the endemic Cape Verde Warbler. We will also encounter our first Iago Sparrows, a pretty endemic that was once lumped with the Rufous Sparrows of mainland Africa. In addition, these areas hold Spectacled Warbler, Eurasian Blackcap, Brown-necked Raven, Common Waxbill and Spanish Sparrow.
Overhead we should see the endemic Cape Verde Swift, whilst the scenically spectacular and very rugged mountains of the interior, which are reminiscent of mountain ranges in the more arid areas of the African mainland, harbour the endemic Cape Verde Buzzard, the endemic Alexander’s Kestrel (occasionally split from Common), the distinctive Cape Verde race of the Rock Dove and Helmeted Guineafowl. We will stay out until dusk in order to try and see the endemic Cape Verde Owl (occasionally split from Western Barn Owl).
Although there are few wetlands on Santiago, Bourne’s (or Cape Verde) Heron (occasionally split from Purple, and very different in appearance) is restricted to the island and Western Cattle Egrets are local residents. The heron is nowadays much easier to find than it once was, thanks to the construction of new reservoirs.
The endemic Cape Verde Falcon (occasionally split from Peregrine) is now either very rare or already extinct. (An additional endemic landbird species, the Cape Verde Kite, is now thought to be extinct, and indeed the pure population may have been extinct for some time, the current theory being that the more recently surviving birds were a hybrid population produced by interbreeding with migrant Black Kites.)
Some parts of the island are very arid and hold such species as Cream-coloured Courser, Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark and Bar-tailed Lark. At a small lagoon, we should find Grey Heron, Little Egret and Common Moorhen, plus a selection of migrant waders including Black-winged Stilt, Common Ringed, Kentish and Grey (or Black-bellied) Plovers, Sanderling, Little Stint, Wood, Common and Curlew Sandpipers, Eurasian Whimbrel, Common Greenshank and Ruddy Turnstone.
Nearctic vagrant shorebirds turn up here on a regular basis and vagrant herons, such as Black Heron and Intermediate Egret, have also occurred. Consequently, we shall be on the lookout for rarities.
FOGO
Our main reason for coming to the spectacular island of Fogo, which is in effect a volcano rising from the sea (the highest point on the island is 2829m or 9281ft above sea level), is to try and observe Cape Verde Storm Petrel, which is more reliable here than off São Nicolau.
During our pelagic, we are also sure to have great views of Fea’s (or Cape Verde) Petrels and Cape Verde Shearwaters, and other species, such as Boyd’s Shearwater and Bulwer’s Petrel, are also likely. Recently, and very surprisingly, even Black-capped Petrel has been recorded off Fogo, so we shall hope to get lucky!
Brown Boobies and Red-billed Tropicbirds are common nesting species and recently they have been joined by small numbers of Red-footed Boobies. There has even been a recent record of White-tailed Tropicbird nesting on some small islets not far from Fogo.
If we have time, we will drive up the mountain road to the caldera of the extinct volcano to admire the other-worldly landscapes.
SÃO NICOLA AND RASO
From the airport, we will travel through the rugged interior of the island until we reach the picturesque little harbour at Tarrafal.
The beautiful island of São Nicolau is typical of the northern Cape Verdes, being a land of rugged, rocky ridges with steep, partly terraced hillsides and tiny villages. Here we will have opportunities to watch the aptly named Neglected Kestrel (occasionally split from Common Kestrel), which is fairly common. Virtually lacking sexual dimorphism in its plumage, neglectus has noticeably shorter wings than typical Common Kestrels, giving it an appearance more like that of Seychelles Kestrel or Mauritius Kestrel.
Along the coastline, we could see a Yellow-legged Gull of the form atlantis, while Fea’s (or Cape Verde) Petrels and Boyd’s Shearwaters regularly pass by the island’s headlands. The western part of the island is a good place for Helmeted Guineafowl.
During our stay at Tarrafal, we will make a boat trip in search of seabirds and the most isolated of all the Cape Verdean endemics, the rare Raso Lark. From São Nicolau we will sail eastwards towards the small and remote island of Raso. Most Cape Verde tubenose species are only very sparsely distributed at sea, ranging over huge areas, but we should see plenty of Cape Verde Shearwaters and small numbers of Boyd’s Shearwaters, Fea’s (or Cape Verde) Petrels and Bulwer’s Petrels.
We may also see Cape Verde Storm Petrel and White-faced Storm Petrel. Flying fish are frequently to be seen and there is a good chance that we will encounter some dolphins. There has even been a recent record of Trinidade Petrel from these waters!
After about two hours we will reach the ornithologically famous island of Raso (or Razo), which lies between São Nicolau and São Vicente. Here on this small uninhabited island, approximately 2.5 km in diameter, lives the entire world population of the little-known Raso Lark – probably around 1000 individuals according to the latest study. In addition to the famous lark, which is unusual in showing marked sexual dimorphism, Raso possesses several pairs of breeding Western Ospreys and an important seabird colony. Boyd’s and Cape Verde Shearwaters, Cape Verde Storm Petrel, Brown Booby and Red-billed Tropicbirds all nest here, protected by the sheer inaccessibility of this remote island.
Please note that we have enough time on São Nicolau deliberately so that we can have two windows for the Raso pelagic in case of very windy weather. Unlike Fogo, where the waters are more sheltered by the volcano, Raso is very exposed to the wind.
SAL
The rather barren island of Sal had a huge runway built during World War II and this was turned over to civilian use afterwards. In recent years tourism on the island (mostly of the beach variety) has hugely expanded. For this reason, many of the flights to and from the Cape Verde Islands go to Sal rather than Praia.
The island is an easy place to find Greater Hoopoe Lark, but of particular interest are its small wetlands that have turned up many vagrant waterbirds over the years. We are almost sure to find some stragglers here and these have come both from the African mainland and from the Americas!
Cape Verde Islands: Day 12 Our Cape Verde Islands birding tour ends this evening at Sal airport.