SULAWESI, MOROTAI & HALMAHERA TOUR REPORT 2023
12 July - 1 / 7 August 2023
by Dave Farrow
The classic Sulawesi and Halmahera tour that I first knew back in 1999 has undergone several changes over the years and goes from strength to strength despite the constant human pressure on the habitat. It is now expanded to include Morotai, and this year operated with an extension to the Moluccan islands of Obi and Bacan. We enjoyed good weather for the most part, were mostly free of mishaps, we managed to find nearly all of our desired targets and even added some. In the montane forests of Lore Lindu, we saw Satanic Nightjar, Speckled and Cinnabar Boobook, Red-eared Fruit Dove, Ornate and Yellow-cheeked Lorikeets, Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk, Great Shortwing, Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Sulawesi Thrush and Malia, plus two Geomalia. In the north of Sulawesi, we saw Great-billed, Lilac, Sulawesi Dwarf, Green-backed and Scaly Kingfisher, Oberholser’s Fruit Dove, Maleo, Ochre-bellied Boobooks, Yellow-breasted Racket-tails, Great and Pygmy Hanging Parrots, Knobbed and Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Isabelline Bush-hen, Blue-faced Rail, Purple-winged Roller, Sulawesi Pitta, Matinan Flycatcher and Red-backed Thrushes. On Morotai we saw the eponymous White-eye and Friarbird, plus the island taxa of Halmahera Paradise Crow, Spangled Drongo and Ivory-breasted Pitta, while on Halmahera we did well with Moluccan Scrubfowl, Halmahera Boobook, Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar, Sombre Kingfisher, Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove, Great Cuckoo-Dove, Moluccan Goshawk, Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk, Moluccan King Parrot, Purple Dollarbird, Ivory-breasted Pitta, White-naped Monarch, and watched several Standardwing at a lek in the forest. On our extension we saw ‘Bacan’ Cream-throated White-eye and ‘Bacan’ Spangled Drongos, and on Obi we had a superb encounter with the Obi (or Moluccan) Woodcock, plus Carunculated Fruit Dove, Cinnamon-breasted Whistlers, Obi Paradise Crows, Obi White-eye, ‘Obi’ Northern Fantail, Obi Spangled Drongos, Obi Golden Bulbuls, North Moluccan Pitta and ‘Reddish-tinged’ Myzomela. Mammals seen on the tour included Sulawesi Bear Cuscus, Obi Cuscus, Spectral Tarsier, Celebes Crested Macaque, Risso’s Dolphin and Bryde’s Whale. A special thanks to Jonas is due, for making it all run so smoothly.
Our tour began in Makassar, and once all had assembled, we set off along busy roads to Malino where would we spend our first night. It rained heavily, and as we gathered over our breakfast of fried rice and eggs, we feared today would be a washout. We headed out to where we would start a steep climb along macheted paths, to reach the forest on the ridge top. Some smart Piping Crows provided a nice start, but once in the forest the rain returned and we just got wet (plus there were many tiny leeches – a Sulawesi write-in!) We managed some brief looks at Lompobattang Leaf Warbler, Little Pied Flycatcher, but had little else to show for a difficult hike. Retreating to the town, we tried another place nearby where we saw Yellow-sided and Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker, Streak-headed and Warbling White-eyes, and Citrine Canary Flycatcher. We then headed for Makassar, where we had a late afternoon session on the fishponds where we found Javan Plover with well-grown juveniles, Pied Stilts, Whiskered Terns and skeins of Glossy Ibis, and were surprised to see many Nankeen Night Heron flying over. We found an epic roost of Streaked Weaver, Pale -headed and Chestnut Munias in a reedbed, while Australian Reed Warblers were singing loudly.
We spent a morning near to Makassar at Karaenta Forest, where we found our target of Black-ringed White-eye fussing about in a tall bamboo. A Sulawesi Pitta was glimpsed, and we had brief looks at Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, plus Great Hanging Parrot, Spotted Kestrels and Grey-rumped Treeswifts. At the foot of the hills, we saw our first Black Sunbirds and some nesting Streaked Weavers, before heading back to Makassar airport from where we flew northwards to Palu. From Palu we drove to Wuasa, and after nightfall we paused in hill forest en route where we could hear Cinnabar Boobook calling distantly.
Here in what remains of Lore Lindu National Park, in the remaining roadside forest we enjoyed a busy morning full of birds such as Superb and Red-eared Fruit Doves, White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Ornate and Yellow-cheeked Lorikeets, Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Fiery-browed Starlings, Sulawesi Drongo, Cerulean and Pygmy Cuckooshrikes, Blue-fronted Flycatcher, Dark-eared Myza, Sulawesi Myzomela, Black-crowned White-eye, Ashy and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers. We walked part way up the Anaso track where we saw a roosting Satanic Nightjar in a clearing, plus Sulawesi Drongos, noisy but furtive Malia, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, and Sulawesi Leaf-warbler. In the afternoon we explored lower elevations where we found Rufous-bellied and Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, Lemon-bellied White-eye, Crimson Sunbird, Sulawesi Swiftlet and Short-tailed Starlings. After dark we stood in an orchard and saw a noisy little Speckled Boobook.
Pre-dawn we searched for Cinnabar Boobook, which showed for an instant (he didn’t like the light!) then as the light came up, we saw Sulawesi Thrush and a Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk, before we began our ascent of the Anaso track once more. The single roosting Satanic Nightjar was still in the same place, Golden-mantled Racket-tails passed overhead in noisy flocks, and a quartet of Indonesian Serin flew over. Further up the mountain we found White-eared Myza, heard two Great Shortwing, and then saw two Geomalia feeding on the track in the middle of the day! This is only the third time I have seen it in 14 visits. We also found a perched Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, and managed to find the much-wanted Hylocitrea, not calling, hardly moving, as is typical, yet he just appears as if by magic. We plodded down the track again, the days when you could drive to the top now but a distant memory. On our way back we saw Turquoise Flycatcher, and a male Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, however another try for Sulawesi Masked Owl around the village was without success. A last morning here, pre-dawn owling began the day with a calling Cinnabar Boobook, then we found a skulking Great Shortwing, and on forest trails we finally had good looks at the unusual Malia. An Accipiter that was reacting strongly to calls of Sulawesi Goshawk turned out to be a Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk. We also found Gould’s Bronze Cuckoos and Black-crowned White-eyes, before departing to Palu. On the way we found Black-faced, Pale-headed, Chestnut and Scaly-breasted Munias in ripe rice crops, and in riverine scrub we saw Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, White-shouldered Triller, and disturbed at least six Savanna Nightjars, one of which stayed put for some lengthy viewing.
After a splendid seafood dinner, we took an early flight to Makassar and then Manado, from where we drove the short way to Tomohon. We headed up to the nearby Gunung Mahawu, where we met our local guides, and before long we were called to where they had found a Scaly Kingfisher, up a steep and sticky slope where we watched it sat in the misty forest. Hurrah! Always a tricky bird to find, so we were happy to get the extra help! Further explorations found Sulawesi Myzomela, Black-crowned White-eyes, Yellow-sided Flowerpeckers and Turquoise Flycatcher. We returned to the same place at dawn the next day, and the guides once again found us a Scaly Kingfisher, this time in better light. Next, we were taken to a blind where after a short wait, a gorgeous Sulawesi Pitta came bounding in and entertained us at close range. What a bird!
After all this fun, it was time to start driving and head west to our next stop at Kotamobagu, from where we headed out to the Maleo research station at Tambun. Our progress was slowed by flocks of Java Sparrows, Australian Pratincoles and a smart Greater Painted Snipe in the roadside paddyfields. On arriving at the site, a small patch of foothill forest with volcanically heated ground at its base, our guide Max took us into the fenced nesting area. It wasn’t long before we could hear the Chewbacca-like sound of the Maleos, gathering in the big trees. Soon we were enjoying some excellent views of this pink-bellied wonder, pacing back and forwards on a high branch. We also saw two running around in the nesting clearing (the first time I’ve seen that!) and visited the enclosed pens where the newly hatched maleo chicks are kept for a short time after hatching. We were allowed to release two of the chicks, actually not easy to keep hold of as they are amazingly strong and were fighting to get free, ready to fly straight from the egg! They quickly bolted for cover once released. What an incredible creature!
The next morning, we began on a stretch of forested road at Tapacolintang, where we encountered perhaps the busiest morning of birding on the whole tour! We began strongly with Channel-billed Cuckoo, Black-naped Fruit Dove, White-faced Cuckoo-Dove, Bay Coucal, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Ivory-backed Woodswallows, White-rumped Triller, Sulawesi Cicadabirds, Black-naped Oriole, White-necked Myna, Sulawesi Crested Myna, White-eyed Spangled Drongo, Grey-sided and Yellow-sided Flowerpeckers, Crimson Sunbird, Pale Blue Monarch, Great and Pygmy Hanging Parrots, Knobbed and Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, a swarm of Purple Needletail and some brief views of Oberholser’s Fruit Dove. In the afternoon we visited the remaining patch of forest at Toraut. As we waited for the raft to take us across the river, we found a Blue-faced Rail lurking in a riverside bamboo patch! Wow! A lifer for the leader! In the forest itself we saw Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher, and in surrounding areas we saw Wandering Whistling Duck, Barred Rail and Oriental Darters.
The next morning, we headed in the opposite direction, to Gunung Ambang. We found the trail to be much improved, however the forest edge was further away! We plodded up the hill, finding a few birds such as White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, Yellow-billed Malkoha and Black-crowned White-eyes, plus we had our best looks at Malias as they ferreted about on mossy trunks. Our quarry here, the demure Matinan Flycatcher, gave itself up eventually, before the rain came in and we trekked down the hill again. In the afternoon we headed west once more, finding White-browed Crake and Dusky Moorhens on a roadside pond, while in paddyfields we saw several Greater Painted Snipe, Australian Pratincoles, and Wood Sandpiper. We returned to Tambun for the end of the day and saw a Green-backed Kingfisher hiding in the forest.
We drove across the island the next morning, to reach Tangkoko at the far eastern end. We paused to scan some forested slopes on our way in, where we found our only Purple-winged Roller of the tour and a handsome group of Grosbeak Starlings. We spent the afternoon taking a boat trip along the coast, where Black-naped Terns were feeding in the bay. Unable to cruise up the mangrove creek as planned due to excessive silting combined with a low tide, we waded ashore to the entrance of the creek. We found White-rumped Cuckooshrike, plus Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Sacred Kingfisher and Pacific Reef Egrets. Our main target of Great-billed Kingfisher held out for a while, with a brief flyby at first, and then two posed well along the coast as we chugged back along the shoreline. At dusk we stood in a forest clearing where we saw Great Eared Nightjars, heard Sulawesi Nightjar, and saw an excellent Sulawesi Scops Owl that posed nicely.
A full day at Tangkoko is always fun, under the guidance of our guide Samuel and his helpers we walked into the main forest at dawn and soon began seeing great birds. In the gloom of the early morning, we saw several Philippine Megapode, followed by a male Green-backed Kingfisher, and then a Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher. We were shown a roosting pair of Ochre-bellied Boobooks, while Yellow-breasted Racket-tails bugled in the trees overhead. A trio of Spectral Tarsier roosting in a tree hole were enchanting, plus we saw two Sulawesi Bear Cuscus high in a tree. A trio of Red-backed Thrushes feeding on the forest floor were well received, and of course we saw troops of the famous selfie monkeys, the Celebes Crested Macaque. Later we explored a trail in a different location, and we guided to a cute little Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, plus we saw our third Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher of the day. In the late afternoon we saw Barred and Buff-banded Rails in a clearing, plus a splendid Isabelline Bush-hen. As dusk fell, we found two Sulawesi Nightjars, making feeding sorties from the ground but remaining totally silent.
A final morning at Tangkoko, and we headed up onto the viewpoint on the ridge. Swirls of Grosbeak Starlings were zipping in and out of the fruiting trees, as were Great Hanging Parrots, and eventually we had satisfaction with a couple of Pygmy Hanging Parrots. The wind was strong which kept things down but we saw a pair of Knobbed Hornbills, Azure-rumped Parrot, Golden-mantled Racket-tails, Green Imperial Pigeons and Grey-cheeked Green Pigeons. Further down the hill we tried to find Pied Cuckooshrike in tall windblown trees, but a vocal trio of birds stayed high and out of reach. A pair of Oberholser’s Fruit Doves were a welcome and unexpected surprise.
Moving to the Grand Luley resort for our last night on Sulawesi, along the mangrove boardwalk we had a stunning close view of a Great-billed Kingfisher, plus Sacred and Common (Hispid) Kingfishers, White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, Striated Heron and a Pink-necked Green Pigeon, plus squadrons of Pied Imperial Pigeons coming into roost in the late afternoon.
A day of multiple transport modes followed, with an early departure from our hotel by minibus to Manado airport, an early flight to Kao on Halmahera, a car journey to Tobelo, a bumpy speedboat ride to Morotai, another car ride to the foot of a logging track, and a dump truck to take us another 8km up into hill forest. Once there we found good bird activity, and we saw Spectacled Imperial Pigeon, Violet-necked Lory, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Great-billed Parrot, Dusky Megapode, Slaty (or Moluccan) Flycatcher, Northern Golden Bulbul, Gurney’s Eagle, Rufous-bellied Triller, and many Morotai Friarbirds whose drab appearance belies their melodic calls. A morning spent in the same forest was much quieter. We found a single Morotai White-eye, and three Gurney’s Eagle showed well, but our quest for the Morotai Ivory-breasted Pitta met with some difficulty. We encountered three birds, all very shy, and they never really showed despite the odd glimpse. Morotai of course was the home for 30 years of the last WW2 Japanese soldier, Teruo Nakamura, who emerged from his jungle hideout in 1974. I couldn’t help but wonder how many Pittas and Megapodes he ate during that time!
Returning across the water to Tobelo, after dinner we headed out to where we crossed in small canoes to a black sand beach. Here the Moluccan Megapode come to lay their eggs in the sand during the night, and it can be a long wait. Once all where ashore, we began our search, which lasted all of five minutes! A female Moluccan Megapode, disturbed from digging a hole for her egg, gave us some superb close views, an unexpectedly quick showing! We lingered a little longer and saw one other, before returning across the creek and driving back to our hotel.
The next day we enjoyed a welcome new method of reaching our next destination. Instead of the hot seven-hour drive to Subaim, we could take the new car ferry! Not only much faster, but it allowed for some leisurely seawatching from the deck in comfort. We saw a fantastic pod of 10 Risso’s Dolphin, plus numerous Spinner Dolphins, many Bridled and Common Terns and a Brown Booby. We arrived in time for lunch at our accommodation, and in the afternoon, we drove to the nearby Buli Road where the road passes through hill forest. Here we found Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, White Cockatoo, many Blyth’s Hornbill, Moluccan Eclectus, a remarkable roost gathering of Chattering Lory, and a Moluccan Goshawk sat in a roadside tree at dusk.
The next morning, we began early to reach the village of Foli further along the coast, along a bumpy road and then up a rough track, squeezed into the back of a pick-up truck, to visit the lek site of Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise (as it used to be known as…) We walked down a narrow trail in darkness, and as the first glimmer of dawn lit the sky, the loud cries began from the trees above us. The first males became visible, shaking their standards and fanning their epaulettes, as it became lighter, we could actually see three males and four females, all getting very excited, finishing up with a three-way of males having a dance-off. An excellent show.
Continuing our birding along the old logging track we saw Drab and Black-chinned Whistlers, Dusky-brown Oriole, Halmahera Spectacled (or Moluccan) Monarch, Dusky Myzomela, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Violet-necked Lory, though the Ivory-breasted Pitta calls taunted us mercilessly. After the midday lull, we headed up again, found a Common Paradise Kingfisher that posed in the open, plus Cream-throated White-eye, Moluccan and White-bellied Cuckooshrikes, Great-billed Parrot, clumsy Goliath Coucals, Grey-headed Fruit Dove and Sultans Cuckoo-Doves.
We returned to the Buli Road, with a pre-dawn session where we found a Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, then further up the hill we saw Moluccan King Parrot, ‘Halmahera’ Island Leaf Warbler, a Great Cuckoo-Dove that did a wonderful aerial display over our heads, Halmahera Paradise Crows and Chattering Lory. We found a small trail into the forest and following it for some way we eventually found an Ivory-breasted Pitta that showed reasonably well to all. Continuing along the road we found a vocal Sombre Kingfisher and an elegant Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove and had the curious sight of a Great-billed Heron flying over the forest at 500m a.s.l.! The rest of the day was much quieter, with owling after dark producing a Moluccan Scops Owl.
A second morning here began with a vocal Halmahera Boobook that never showed himself. After an al fresco breakfast, scanning across the logged forest we found Goliath Coucals, White Cockatoo and our first Blue-and-white Kingfishers, however all were swiftly ignored when suddenly a Purple Dollarbird appeared on top of a dead snag! Hurrah! Much joy all around. Further up the hill we found our first White-streaked Friarbird, Common Cicadabird, Moluccan and Halmahera Cuckooshrikes. We found a bijou little Blue-capped Fruit Dove, a distant perched Pygmy Eagle, and a fine male Shining Flycatcher. Along the roadsides in the afternoon, we found families of White-bellied Cuckooshrike and Blue-and-white Kingfishers, a flock of Moustached Treeswift, a Black Eagle, Great Cuckoo-Dove, Moluccan King Parrots, then as dusk fell, we had another look at Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, and finished up with a good view of the Halmahera Boobook that had eluded us earlier.
With another morning to play with, we returned to the Buli Road where we began scanning from a viewpoint, and soon found a pair of Purple Dollarbird flying to their favourite perch. They stayed in place for much longer today, making feeding sorties from the treetop, at times sharing their perch with Pied Imperial Pigeons. Nearby we found a vocal Moluccan Goshawk, and a buzz of activity in a fruiting tree included Chattering Lory, Moluccan King Parrots, White-streaked Friarbird, Halmahera Paradise-crow, Halmahera Cuckooshrike, Halmahera Spangled Drongos, and finally a White-naped Monarch that showed at length. Further down the hill we saw a remarkably confiding Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk and finished with a pink flowering tree full of Red-flanked Lorikeets and a Halmahera Flowerpecker. In the afternoon we bumped our way to Sidangoli, along the way seeing Oriental Dollarbird, a distant Beach Kingfisher, many Lesser Frigatebirds, and more Blue-and-white Kingfishers on the wires.
After crossing to Ternate, we visited the crater lake at Danau Tolire. Brush Cuckoo gave confiding looks, we saw Blue-capped Fruit Dove, several Shining Flycatchers, Rainbow Bee-eaters and a pair of Tricolored Grebe. From here to the airport, we waved goodbye to those leaving the tour, and began our extension with a relaxing afternoon until it was time to catch the ferry to Obi. Comfortable in simple cabins, we steamed through the night and arrived at Bacan island at 5am. After a simple breakfast on the quayside, we went for a walk, heading inland through coconut and secondary forest. We eventually found the Bacan Spangled Drongo, plus Shining Flycatcher, Moluccan Starlings and Blue-and-white Kingfisher, before it was time to scurry back to the ship and continue our journey. Scanning the sea as we went, only two birds were seen as we crossed to Bisa, a Bridled Tern and a Wilson’s Storm Petrel that gave us a good close view. The cetaceans were good, with many pods of Spinner Dolphin, and a pod of four or five Bryde’s Whales ‘logging’ on the surface, their blows visible from far. We had a brief stop at the island of Bisa, then on we went to Obi, arriving in heavy rain at 3pm. Our cars whisked us away to our comfortable guesthouse (unfortunately next to a large mosque) and once the rain abated, we headed out with the local guide. He took us to a place where we saw Cinnamon-breasted Whistler, Obi Paradise Crows duetting (quite a different character to the Halmahera birds) and an ‘Obi’ Cream-throated White-eye. As dusk fell, we positioned ourselves on a likely section of road and waited for our main target – Obi (or Moluccan) Woodcock. Soon after sunset we heard the distinctive trilling call, and sure enough, there was a roding Woodcock coming straight towards us, passing directly over our heads and calling as he did so. Amazingly it made at least ten passes over our position over the next 15 minutes, at one time joined by a second bird. Wow! You lucky people.
We began the next day full of high hopes, with another Obi Woodcock seen at dawn, then we followed a trail up a valley through secondary forest. We found our first Carunculated Fruit Dove, Obi Spangled Drongos, Obi Golden Bulbuls, Common Cicadabirds, plenty of Blue and White Kingfisher, Slaty (or Moluccan) Flycatchers, a Moluccan Cuckoo, Blyth’s Hornbills, Rufous-bellied Triller, and Halmahera Flowerpecker. It was very hot and humid, then the heavens opened just as we found some Spotted Whistling Ducks on a forest pond. Later we explored another area, with some brief looks at Pale-vented Bush-hen and Buff-banded Rails along the potholed roads, and in fruiting trees we watched a gathering of 30 or more Carunculated Fruit Doves. Obi Paradise Crows proved to be quite common, a rather comical and entertaining endemic.
The next morning, we headed along similar trails. We could hear many calling North Moluccan Pittas, and we managed to see one quite well. We found the ‘Obi’ Northern Fantail, ‘Reddish-tinged’ Myzomela, (a potential split from Dusky Myzomela), a cute, rotund Obi Cuscus sat snoozing in a tree, a pair of Pygmy Eagles, Rainbow Bee-eaters, Variable Goshawk and Seram Swiftlets. In the afternoon we explored along the ‘main’ road where we saw White-bellied Cuckooshrike, another ‘Reddish-tinged’ Myzomela, Slaty Flycatcher, plenty of Cinnamon-breasted Whistlers, and another Obi Cuscus, this time with a full pouch. At dusk we enjoyed another Obi Woodcock session, more muted than our first evening, with just six flyovers! Awesome.
The next morning, we attempted to do some final Obi birding, however one of the drivers drove partly off a narrow bridge and was left hanging over a ditch! We were stuck so we began walking back to town, eventually finding a truck that gave us a ride. After some breakfast and packing up, we made it to the port with time to spare, for our ferry to Bacan. After the inevitable delays we sailed onwards, first stop was Bisa (where we went ashore to get some tasty lunch items) then onwards across the open sea. We saw a large number of Bridled Terns on the crossing, plus a few Black-naped and Greater Crested Terns, and a couple apiece of Brown Noddy, Brown Boobies and Streaked Shearwaters. Arriving on Bacan with daylight to spare, we made our way up a forested track where we found the local ‘Bacan’ Cream-throated White-eye, before heading to our comfortable hotel.
Our last days’ birding took us once more up the forested track where we found plenty to look at, with Halmahera Golden Bulbuls, Halmahera Spectacled Monarch, Shining Flycatchers, a few Moluccan Starlings among the numerous Metallic, more ‘Bacan’ Cream-throated White-eyes, ‘Bacan’ Spangled Drongos, Blue-capped Fruit Dove, some nice Moluccan Hanging Parrots, and some lovely Moustached Treeswifts building a tiny next. Also, we found Red-cheeked Parrots and Violet-necked Lorys, a Moluccan Goshawk and White-streaked Friarbirds. A fine morning, in the afternoon we went for an exploratory drive around, trying to reach the distant forests visible on the nearby mountain, without much success. It was hot and quiet, and after one last dinner in a simple waterfront fish restaurant, we headed to our final ferry which took us overnight to Ternate.
We arrived in Ternate, after breakfast and a shower we headed up to the airport where the tour ended. As is usual, flights were delayed, confusion reigned, but we made it out eventually and headed homeward, happy with a successful tour around the islands of this fascinating region and its exotic avifauna.
SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR
BIRDS
Spotted Whistling Duck ◊ Dendrocygna guttata Nice to see this on Obi. Well spotted!
Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata
Sunda Teal ◊ Anas gibberifrons non-leader.
Maleo ◊ Macrocephalon maleo Wonderful encounters at Tambun.
Moluccan Megapode ◊ Eulipoa wallacei A close view of one in the torch beam on Halmahera.
Philippine Megapode ◊ (Tabon Scrubfowl) Megapodius cumingii
Dusky Megapode ◊ (D Scrubfowl) Megapodius freycinet
King Quail (Blue-breasted Q) Synoicus chinensis heard-only.
Satanic Nightjar ◊ Eurostopodus diabolicus Great views of a roosting bird at Lore Lindu.
Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus
Sulawesi Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus celebensis Good views of two on the ground at Tangkoko
Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis
Moluccan Owlet-nightjar ◊ Aegotheles crinifrons Two encounters on Halmahera, possibly two birds.
Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis
Moustached Treeswift ◊ Hemiprocne mystacea An airborne flock on Halmahera and watched nest-building on Bacan.
Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta
Halmahera Swiftlet ◊ Aerodramus infuscatus
Sulawesi Swiftlet ◊ Aerodramus sororum
Seram Swiftlet ◊ Aerodramus ceramensis Seen on Obi.
Uniform Swiftlet Aerodramus vanikorensis
Purple Needletail ◊ Hirundapus celebensis Close low-level views of a large flock at Tapakolintang.
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
House Swift Apus nipalensis
Bay Coucal ◊ Centropus celebensis A few of these Sulawesi endemics in the north of the island.
Goliath Coucal ◊ Centropus goliath An ungainly fellow, we saw a few on Halmahera.
Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis
Yellow-billed Malkoha ◊ Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus
Black-billed Koel ◊ Eudynamys melanorhynchus
Channel-billed Cuckoo ◊ Scythrops novaehollandiae A single bird seen at Tapakolintang.
Little Bronze Cuckoo (Gould’s B C) Chrysococcyx [minutillus] jungei A trio at Lore Lindu entertained us.
Brush Cuckoo (Australian B C) Cacomantis variolosus Good views on Ternate, many heard on Halmahera and Obi.
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Sulawesi Brush C) Cacomantis sepulcralis Often heard, just a single seen at Lore Lindu.
Moluccan Cuckoo ◊ (M Brush C) Cacomantis aeruginosus One seen on Obi.
Moluccan Drongo-Cuckoo ◊ Surniculus musschenbroeki heard-only
Rock Dove Columba livia
Red Collared Dove (introduced) Streptopelia tranquebarica
Spotted Dove (introduced) Spilopelia chinensis
Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove ◊ Macropygia doreya
Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove (Sulawesi C-D) Macropygia [doreya] albicapilla
Great Cuckoo-Dove ◊ Reinwardtoena reinwardti One on the Buli road made a superb aerial display over us.
White-faced Cuckoo-Dove Turacoena manadensis Some good looks at Tapakolintang
Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
Zebra Dove Geopelia striata
Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans
Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon ◊ Treron griseicauda
Red-eared Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus fischeri At higher elevations at Lore Lindu.
Oberholser’s Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus gularis Brief looks at Tapakolintang, good views of a pair at Tangkoko.
Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus bernsteinii A personal favourite, we had superb looks at one on Halmahera.
Superb Fruit Dove ◊ (Western S F D) Ptilinopus [superbus] temminckii
Superb Fruit Dove (Eastern S F D) Ptilinopus [superbus] superbus heard-only.
Blue-capped Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus monacha So cute, and not uncommon, just too small to find quickly!
Grey-headed Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus hyogastrus
Carunculated Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus granulifrons An Obi endemic, we had good looks at a flock in a fruiting tree.
Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospilus
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula forsteni Several seen well on Sulawesi, with a great call.
Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea
Spectacled Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula perspicillata Also with great calls, on Morotai, Halmahera and Obi.
Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula basilica The ‘rumbling tum’, quite a few seen on Halmahera.
Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ (Obi I P) Ducula [basilica] obiensis heard-only.
Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor Coastal on Sulawesi, inland on Halmahera.
Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula luctuosa A Sulawesi endemic, we saw plenty at Tangkoko.
Sombre Pigeon ◊ Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa heard-only, at Lore Lindu.
Barred Rail ◊ Hypotaenidia torquata
Buff-banded Rail Hypotaenidia philippensis
Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa
Blue-faced Rail ◊ Gymnocrex rosenbergii A great find of a rarely-seen bird, we were able to watch one running around in a bamboo thicket at Toraut.
White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinereus
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Isabelline Bush-hen ◊ Amaurornis isabellina Nice views of one at Tangkoko.
Pale-vented Bush-hen ◊ Amaurornis moluccana A brief view of two on Obi.
Tricolored Grebe ◊ Tachybaptus tricolor
Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator
Pied Stilt (White-headed S) Himantopus leucocephalus
Javan Plover ◊ Charadrius javanicus Adults and juveniles seen at Makassar saltpans.
Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis Several seen on wet paddies near Tambun, unusual on the tour.
Moluccan Woodcock ◊ Scolopax rochussenii As many as ten passes overhead by roding birds on our first evening on Obi, with two roding together on a couple of occasions.
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Grey-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Australian Pratincole Stiltia isabella Nice to see several of these in paddyfields near Tambun.
Brown Noddy Anous stolidus One seen as we crossed to Morotai, a few more between Obi and Bacan.
Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii
Little Tern Sternula albifrons
Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus Plenty en-route to Subaim, an extraordinary 120+ between Obi and Bacan.
Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana Nice views from our small boats at Tangkoko.
Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
Wilson’s Storm Petrel Oceanites oceanicus A great look at one from the Bacan to Obi ferry.
Streaked Shearwater Calonectris leucomelas At least a couple seen between Obi and Bacan.
Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster Seen at Toraut.
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus non-leader.
Nankeen Night Heron (Rufous N H) Nycticorax caledonicus At least 30 seen flying over at dusk on Massar saltpans.
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa
Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus
Great-billed Heron ◊ Ardea sumatrana A big surprise to see one flying over the forest on the Buli road!
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Great Egret (Eastern G E) Ardea [alba] modesta
Little Egret Egretta [garzetta] garzetta
Little Egret (Black-footed E) Egretta [garzetta] nigripes
Pacific Reef Heron Egretta sacra
Osprey (Eastern O, Australian O) Pandion [haliaetus] cristatus
Sulawesi Serpent Eagle ◊ Spilornis rufipectus One soaring at Tapakolintang, the only one of the tour.
Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle ◊ Nisaetus lanceolatus
Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis
Pygmy Eagle ◊ Hieraaetus weiskei Seen well on Halmahera and on Obi.
Gurney’s Eagle ◊ Aquila gurneyi Great views of three on Morotai, even shadowing our vehicle!
Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter trinotatus A nice vocal example posed for us at Lore Lindu.
Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster One seen on Obi.
Moluccan Goshawk ◊ Accipiter henicogrammus Not uncommon along the Subaim to Buli road.
Dwarf Sparrowhawk ◊ (Small S) Accipiter nanus heard only.
Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter erythrauchen Excellent close and prolonged views on the Buli road.
Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter rhodogaster A lively bird was seen in the forest at Lore Lindu.
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus
White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster
Ochre-bellied Boobook ◊ Ninox ochracea Two at roost at Tangkoko were very nice to see.
Cinnabar Boobook ◊ Ninox ios One at Lore Lindu didn’t like the light, a brief view only.
Halmahera Boobook ◊ Ninox hypogramma Great views of one on the Buli road.
Speckled Boobook ◊ Ninox punctulata Nice views of one at Wuasa.
Moluccan Scops Owl ◊ Otus magicus
Sulawesi Scops Owl ◊ Otus manadensis Great views of one at Tangkoko.
Blyth’s Hornbill ◊ Rhyticeros plicatus
Knobbed Hornbill ◊ Rhyticeros cassidix
Sulawesi Hornbill ◊ (S Dwarf H) Rhabdotorrhinus exarhatus Brief ones at Karaenta, good looks at Tapakolintang.
Purple-winged Roller ◊ Coracias temminckii One at Tangkoko, the sole sighting on the tour.
Oriental Dollarbird (Common D) Eurystomus orientalis
Azure Dollarbird ◊ (Purple D) Eurystomus azureus A highlight of our birding on the Buli road, a pair showed very well.
Green-backed Kingfisher ◊ Actenoides monachus Singles at Tambun and Tangkoko.
Green-backed Kingfisher ◊ (Black-headed K) Actenoides [monachus] capucinus heard-only.
Scaly-breasted Kingfisher ◊ (Regal K) Actenoides [princeps] regalis Great views of two individuals on Gunung Mahawu.
Common Paradise Kingfisher ◊ Tanysiptera galatea An unusually prolonged view of one sat in the open at Foli.
Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher ◊ Cittura cyanotis Seen at Toraut, three more at Tangkoko.
Great-billed Kingfisher ◊ Pelargopsis melanorhyncha A total of our at Tangkoko and Grand Luley.
Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda One seen well at Tangkoko.
Blue-and-white Kingfisher ◊ Todiramphus diops
Sombre Kingfisher ◊ Todiramphus funebris A vocal bird seen well on the Buli road.
Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris
Beach Kingfisher ◊ Todiramphus saurophagus
Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus
Common Kingfisher ◊ (Hispid K) Alcedo [atthis] hispidoides
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ Ceyx fallax Always a favourite, we were lucky to be guided to one at Tangkoko.
Moluccan Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ Ceyx [lepidus] uropygialis non-leader.
Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus
Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus
Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker ◊ Yungipicus temminckii
Ashy Woodpecker ◊ Mulleripicus fulvus
Spotted Kestrel (Indonesian K) Falco moluccensis
Oriental Hobby Falco severus Distant dots at dusk morphed into a pair of these, on the Buli road.
White Cockatoo ◊ Cacatua alba
Moluccan King Parrot ◊ Alisterus amboinensis A splendid pair seen several times, on Halmahera.
Golden-mantled Racket-tail ◊ (Sulawesi Racquet-t) Prioniturus platurus
Yellow-breasted Racket-tail ◊ (Minahasa Racquet-t) Prioniturus flavicans A good look at these buglers at Tangkoko.
Moluccan Eclectus Eclectus roratus
Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi
Great-billed Parrot ◊ Tanygnathus megalorynchos Not uncommon in the Moluccas.
Azure-rumped Parrot ◊ (Blue-backed P) Tanygnathus [sumatranus] sumatranus
Red-flanked Lorikeet ◊ Hypocharmosyna placentis An attractive bird seen often in the Moluccas.
Chattering Lory ◊ Lorius garrulus A pre-roost gathering of several dozen on Halmahera was a first for me.
Yellow-cheeked Lorikeet ◊ Saudareos meyeri
Ornate Lorikeet ◊ Saudareos ornata A couple at Lore Lindu were the only ones seen.
Violet-necked Lory ◊ Eos squamata
Great Hanging Parrot ◊ (Large S H P) Loriculus stigmatus
Moluccan Hanging Parrot ◊ Loriculus amabilis Seen well on Bacan.
Pygmy Hanging Parrot ◊ (Small Sulawesi H P) Loriculus exilis
Sulawesi Pitta ◊ Erythropitta celebensis A wonderful individual watched at close range at Gunung Mahawu.
North Moluccan Pitta ◊ Erythropitta rufiventris One seen on Obi, where common by voice.
Ivory-breasted Pitta ◊ Pitta maxima After many hours spent trying, we finally had some reasonable views on Halmahera.
Ivory-breasted Pitta ◊ (Morotai P) Pitta [maxima] morotaiensis Glimpses of furtive birds on Morotai.
Dark-eared Myza ◊ Myza celebensis
White-eared Myza ◊ Myza sarasinorum
White-streaked Friarbird ◊ (Halmahera F) Melitograis gilolensis
Dusky Myzomela ◊ (Moluccan M) Myzomela [obscura] simplex
Dusky Myzomela ◊ (Obi M) Myzomela [obscura] rubrotincta ‘Reddish-tinged’ if you like.
Sulawesi Myzomela ◊ Myzomela chloroptera
Morotai Friarbird ◊ (Dusky F) Philemon fuscicapillus Common, noisy and melodic on our first outing on Morotai
Golden-bellied Gerygone (Sulawesi G, Flyeater) Gerygone [sulphurea] flaveola
White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus
Ivory-backed Woodswallow ◊ Artamus monachus A pair at Lore Lindu, also seen at Tapakolintang.
Cerulean Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina temminckii
Pied Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina bicolor
White-rumped Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina leucopygia
White-bellied Cuckooshrike (Papuan C) Coracina papuensis
Moluccan Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina atriceps A distant pair on the Buli road, but close at Foli.
Sulawesi Cicadabird ◊ Edolisoma morio
Common Cicadabird ◊ (Obi C, Wallacean C) Edolisoma tenuirostre
Halmahera Cuckooshrike ◊ (H Cicadabird) Edolisoma parvulum Several seen high on the Buli road.
Pygmy Cuckooshrike ◊ (Mountain Cicadabird) Celebesica abbotti
White-shouldered Triller ◊ Lalage sueurii
Rufous-bellied Triller ◊ Lalage aurea
White-rumped Triller ◊ (Sulawesi T) Lalage leucopygialis Seen well at Tapakolintang, also at Tangkoko.
Sulphur-vented Whistler ◊ (S-bellied W, Yellow-vented W) Pachycephala sulfuriventer
Black-chinned Whistler ◊ (Halmahera W, Moluccan W) Pachycephala mentalis Nice views on Halmahera and Bacan.
Drab Whistler ◊ Pachycephala griseonota
Cinnamon-breasted Whistler ◊ Pachycephala johni Common on Obi, probably the main songbird there.
Dusky-brown Oriole ◊ (Halmahera O) Oriolus phaeochromus
Black-naped Oriole ◊ (Sulawesi Golden O) Oriolus [chinensis] frontalis
Sulawesi Drongo ◊ (S Spangled D) Dicrurus montanus
Spangled Drongo ◊ (Bacan S D) Dicrurus [bracteatus] sp./ssp. nov
Spangled Drongo ◊ (Morotai S D) Dicrurus [bracteatus] morotensis
Spangled Drongo ◊ (Halmahera S D) Dicrurus [bracteatus] atrocaeruleus
Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (White-eyed Spangled D) Dicrurus [hottentottus] leucops
Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (Obi Spangled D) Dicrurus [hottentottus] guillemardi
Willie Wagtail (W Fantail) Rhipidura leucophrys
Northern Fantail ◊ Rhipidura [rufiventris] obiensis One seen well on Obi.
Sulawesi Fantail ◊ (Rusty-bellied F) Rhipidura teysmanni
Pale-blue Monarch ◊ Hypothymis puella
Moluccan Monarch ◊ (Halmahera Spectacled M, Wallacean M) Symposiachrus bimaculatus
White-naped Monarch ◊ Carterornis [pileatus] pileatus Just a single seen on Halmahera.
Moluccan Flycatcher ◊ (M Monarch, Slaty F) Myiagra galeata
Shining Flycatcher ◊ (Moluccan S Monarch, Shining M) Myiagra alecto
Piping Crow ◊ Corvus typicus Seen well at Malino.
Slender-billed Crow ◊ (Sulawesi C) Corvus [enca] celebensis
Long-billed Crow ◊ Corvus validus
Torresian Crow (Australian C) Corvus orru Seen well on Obi.
Halmahera Paradise-crow ◊ (Morotai P-c) Lycocorax [pyrrhopterus] morotensis A flyby glimpse was the only sighting.
Halmahera Paradise-crow ◊ (Halmahera P-c) Lycocorax [pyrrhopterus] pyrrhopterus
Obi Paradise-crow ◊ Lycocorax obiensis A totally different character to the above, with exotic calls.
Standardwing ◊ (Wallace’s S) Semioptera wallacii A great show at the Foli lek.
Hylocitrea ◊ (Northern H) Hylocitrea [bonensis] bonensis One seen well at Lore Lindu, lurking in a berry bush.
Citrine Canary-flycatcher ◊ Culicicapa helianthea
Northern Golden Bulbul ◊ (Halmahera G B) Hypsipetes [longirostris] chloris
Northern Golden Bulbul ◊ (Obi G B) Hypsipetes [longirostris] lucasi
Yellow-vented Bulbul (introduced) Pycnonotus goiavier
Sooty-headed Bulbul (introduced) Pycnonotus aurigaster
Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
Mountain Tailorbird (M Leaftoiler) Phyllergates cucullatus
Sulawesi Leaf Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus nesophilus
Lompobattang Leaf Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus sarasinorum
Island Leaf Warbler ◊ (Halmahera/North Moluccan L W) Phylloscopus [poliocephalus] henrietta
Australian Reed Warbler (Australasian R W) Acrocephalus australis
Sulawesi Bush Warbler ◊ (S Grasshopper W, Chestnut-backed B W) Locustella castanea
Malia ◊ Malia grata Rather furtive at Lore Lindu, showing better at Gunung Ambang.
Tawny Grassbird Cincloramphus timoriensis heard-only.
Zitting Cisticola (Double Zitting C) Cisticola juncidis
Streak-headed White-eye ◊ (Sulawesi Heleia, S-h Dark-e) Heleia squamiceps
Warbling White-eye Zosterops japonicus
Lemon-bellied White-eye ◊ Zosterops chloris
Black-crowned White-eye ◊ (B-fronted W-e) Zosterops atrifrons
Black-ringed White-eye ◊ Zosterops anomalus Seen at Karaenta forest.
Morotai White-eye ◊ Zosterops dehaani
Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Obi W-e) Zosterops [atriceps] sp./ssp. nov
Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Halmahera W-e) Zosterops [atriceps] fuscifrons
Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Bacan W-e) Zosterops [atriceps] atriceps
Sulawesi Babbler ◊ Pellorneum celebense
Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica
Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis
Moluccan Starling ◊ Aplonis mysolensis
Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor
Sulawesi Myna ◊ (S Crested M, Short-crested M) Basilornis celebensis Two at Tapakolintang.
White-necked Myna ◊ (Northern W-n M) Streptocitta [albicollis] torquata
Fiery-browed Starling ◊ Enodes erythrophris
Grosbeak Starling ◊ (Finch-billed Myna) Scissirostrum dubium In good number at Tangkoko.
Javan Myna (introduced) Acridotheres javanicus
Geomalia ◊ Zoothera heinrichi A nice surprise to see this on the Anaso track.
Red-backed Thrush ◊ Geokichla erythronota A trio at Tangkoko were a welcome sight.
Sulawesi Thrush ◊ Turdus turdoides One seen well at Lore Lindu.
Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis omissus
Blue-fronted Blue Flycatcher Eumyias hoevelli
Matinan Blue Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias sanfordi An underwhelming fellow, seen at Gunung Ambang.
Turquoise Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias [panayensis] septentrionalis
Great Shortwing ◊ Heinrichia calligyna Skulking as ever, we managed to see one near Lake Tambing.
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata
Yellow-sided Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum aureolimbatum
Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum nehrkorni A single seen at Malino.
Halmahera Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum schistaceiceps
Grey-sided Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum celebicum
Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis
Black Sunbird ◊ Leptocoma aspasia
Olive-backed Sunbird (Sahul S) Cinnyris [jugularis] frenatus
Crimson Sunbird ◊ (Sulawesi Crimson S) Aethopyga [siparaja] flavostriata
Eurasian Tree Sparrow (introduced) Passer montanus
Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar Plenty coming to roost at Makassar saltpans, also seen nesting at Bantimurung.
Java Sparrow (introduced) Padda oryzivora A flock of 25 near Kotamobagu.
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
Black-faced Munia ◊ Lonchura molucca
Chestnut Munia (introduced) Lonchura atricapilla
Pale-headed Munia ◊ Lonchura pallida
Indonesian Serin ◊ (Mountain S) Chrysocorythus estherae A fly-over flock of four at Lore Lindu.
MAMMALS
Sulawesi Bear Cuscus Ailurops ursinus Three seen at Tangkoko, all high up in tall trees.
Obi Cuscus Phalanger rothschildi Two seen well on Obi, one carrying young in its pouch.
Bryde’s Whale Balaenoptera brydei A group of 4-5 seen quite well en route to Obi.
Risso’s Dolphin Grampus griseus Superb views of ten between Tobelo and Subaim.
Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris
Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops aduncus
Moluccan Flying Fox Pteropus chrysoproctus Presumed to be this species on Obi.
Spectral Tarsier Tarsius tarsier A cute family of three at Tangkoko.
Moor Macaque Macaca maura
Celebes Crested Macaque Macaca nigra
Sanghir Islands Tree Squirrel Prosciurillus leucomus Seen at Tangkoko, with the whitish neck patch.
North Sulawesi Tree Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus The widespread little one.
SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR
Spotted Whistling Duck ◊ Dendrocygna guttata Nice to see this on Obi. Well spotted!
Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata
Sunda Teal ◊ Anas gibberifrons non-leader.
Maleo ◊ Macrocephalon maleo Wonderful encounters at Tambun.
Moluccan Megapode ◊ Eulipoa wallacei A close view of one in the torch beam on Halmahera.
Philippine Megapode ◊ (Tabon Scrubfowl) Megapodius cumingii
Dusky Megapode ◊ (D Scrubfowl) Megapodius freycinet
King Quail (Blue-breasted Q) Synoicus chinensis heard-only.
Satanic Nightjar ◊ Eurostopodus diabolicus Great views of a roosting bird at Lore Lindu.
Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus
Sulawesi Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus celebensis Good views of two on the ground at Tangkoko
Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis
Moluccan Owlet-nightjar ◊ Aegotheles crinifrons Two encounters on Halmahera, possibly two birds.
Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis
Moustached Treeswift ◊ Hemiprocne mystacea An airborne flock on Halmahera and watched nest-building on Bacan.
Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta
Halmahera Swiftlet ◊ Aerodramus infuscatus
Sulawesi Swiftlet ◊ Aerodramus sororum
Seram Swiftlet ◊ Aerodramus ceramensis Seen on Obi.
Uniform Swiftlet Aerodramus vanikorensis
Purple Needletail ◊ Hirundapus celebensis Close low-level views of a large flock at Tapakolintang.
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
House Swift Apus nipalensis
Bay Coucal ◊ Centropus celebensis A few of these Sulawesi endemics in the north of the island.
Goliath Coucal ◊ Centropus goliath An ungainly fellow, we saw a few on Halmahera.
Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis
Yellow-billed Malkoha ◊ Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus
Black-billed Koel ◊ Eudynamys melanorhynchus
Channel-billed Cuckoo ◊ Scythrops novaehollandiae A single bird seen at Tapakolintang.
Little Bronze Cuckoo (Gould’s B C) Chrysococcyx [minutillus] jungei A trio at Lore Lindu entertained us.
Brush Cuckoo (Australian B C) Cacomantis variolosus Good views on Ternate, many heard on Halmahera and Obi.
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Sulawesi Brush C) Cacomantis sepulcralis Often heard, just a single seen at Lore Lindu.
Moluccan Cuckoo ◊ (M Brush C) Cacomantis aeruginosus One seen on Obi.
Moluccan Drongo-Cuckoo ◊ Surniculus musschenbroeki heard-only
Rock Dove Columba livia
Red Collared Dove (introduced) Streptopelia tranquebarica
Spotted Dove (introduced) Spilopelia chinensis
Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove ◊ Macropygia doreya
Sultan’s Cuckoo-Dove (Sulawesi C-D) Macropygia [doreya] albicapilla
Great Cuckoo-Dove ◊ Reinwardtoena reinwardti One on the Buli road made a superb aerial display over us.
White-faced Cuckoo-Dove Turacoena manadensis Some good looks at Tapakolintang
Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
Zebra Dove Geopelia striata
Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans
Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon ◊ Treron griseicauda
Red-eared Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus fischeri At higher elevations at Lore Lindu.
Oberholser’s Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus gularis Brief looks at Tapakolintang, good views of a pair at Tangkoko.
Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus bernsteinii A personal favourite, we had superb looks at one on Halmahera.
Superb Fruit Dove ◊ (Western S F D) Ptilinopus [superbus] temminckii
Superb Fruit Dove (Eastern S F D) Ptilinopus [superbus] superbus heard-only.
Blue-capped Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus monacha So cute, and not uncommon, just too small to find quickly!
Grey-headed Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus hyogastrus
Carunculated Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus granulifrons An Obi endemic, we had good looks at a flock in a fruiting tree.
Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospilus
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula forsteni Several seen well on Sulawesi, with a great call.
Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea
Spectacled Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula perspicillata Also with great calls, on Morotai, Halmahera and Obi.
Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula basilica The ‘rumbling tum’, quite a few seen on Halmahera.
Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ (Obi I P) Ducula [basilica] obiensis heard-only.
Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor Coastal on Sulawesi, inland on Halmahera.
Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula luctuosa A Sulawesi endemic, we saw plenty at Tangkoko.
Sombre Pigeon ◊ Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa heard-only, at Lore Lindu.
Barred Rail ◊ Hypotaenidia torquata
Buff-banded Rail Hypotaenidia philippensis
Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa
Blue-faced Rail ◊ Gymnocrex rosenbergii A great find of a rarely-seen bird, we were able to watch one running around in a bamboo thicket at Toraut.
White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinereus
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Isabelline Bush-hen ◊ Amaurornis isabellina Nice views of one at Tangkoko.
Pale-vented Bush-hen ◊ Amaurornis moluccana A brief view of two on Obi.
Tricolored Grebe ◊ Tachybaptus tricolor
Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator
Pied Stilt (White-headed S) Himantopus leucocephalus
Javan Plover ◊ Charadrius javanicus Adults and juveniles seen at Makassar saltpans.
Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis Several seen on wet paddies near Tambun, unusual on the tour.
Moluccan Woodcock ◊ Scolopax rochussenii As many as ten passes overhead by roding birds on our first evening on Obi, with two roding together on a couple of occasions.
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Grey-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Australian Pratincole Stiltia isabella Nice to see several of these in paddyfields near Tambun.
Brown Noddy Anous stolidus One seen as we crossed to Morotai, a few more between Obi and Bacan.
Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii
Little Tern Sternula albifrons
Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus Plenty en-route to Subaim, an extraordinary 120+ between Obi and Bacan.
Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana Nice views from our small boats at Tangkoko.
Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
Wilson’s Storm Petrel Oceanites oceanicus A great look at one from the Bacan to Obi ferry.
Streaked Shearwater Calonectris leucomelas At least a couple seen between Obi and Bacan.
Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster Seen at Toraut.
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus non-leader.
Nankeen Night Heron (Rufous N H) Nycticorax caledonicus At least 30 seen flying over at dusk on Massar saltpans.
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa
Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus
Great-billed Heron ◊ Ardea sumatrana A big surprise to see one flying over the forest on the Buli road!
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Great Egret (Eastern G E) Ardea [alba] modesta
Little Egret Egretta [garzetta] garzetta
Little Egret (Black-footed E) Egretta [garzetta] nigripes
Pacific Reef Heron Egretta sacra
Osprey (Eastern O, Australian O) Pandion [haliaetus] cristatus
Sulawesi Serpent Eagle ◊ Spilornis rufipectus One soaring at Tapakolintang, the only one of the tour.
Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle ◊ Nisaetus lanceolatus
Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis
Pygmy Eagle ◊ Hieraaetus weiskei Seen well on Halmahera and on Obi.
Gurney’s Eagle ◊ Aquila gurneyi Great views of three on Morotai, even shadowing our vehicle!
Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter trinotatus A nice vocal example posed for us at Lore Lindu.
Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster One seen on Obi.
Moluccan Goshawk ◊ Accipiter henicogrammus Not uncommon along the Subaim to Buli road.
Dwarf Sparrowhawk ◊ (Small S) Accipiter nanus heard only.
Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter erythrauchen Excellent close and prolonged views on the Buli road.
Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter rhodogaster A lively bird was seen in the forest at Lore Lindu.
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus
White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster
Ochre-bellied Boobook ◊ Ninox ochracea Two at roost at Tangkoko were very nice to see.
Cinnabar Boobook ◊ Ninox ios One at Lore Lindu didn’t like the light, a brief view only.
Halmahera Boobook ◊ Ninox hypogramma Great views of one on the Buli road.
Speckled Boobook ◊ Ninox punctulata Nice views of one at Wuasa.
Moluccan Scops Owl ◊ Otus magicus
Sulawesi Scops Owl ◊ Otus manadensis Great views of one at Tangkoko.
Blyth’s Hornbill ◊ Rhyticeros plicatus
Knobbed Hornbill ◊ Rhyticeros cassidix
Sulawesi Hornbill ◊ (S Dwarf H) Rhabdotorrhinus exarhatus Brief ones at Karaenta, good looks at Tapakolintang.
Purple-winged Roller ◊ Coracias temminckii One at Tangkoko, the sole sighting on the tour.
Oriental Dollarbird (Common D) Eurystomus orientalis
Azure Dollarbird ◊ (Purple D) Eurystomus azureus A highlight of our birding on the Buli road, a pair showed very well.
Green-backed Kingfisher ◊ Actenoides monachus Singles at Tambun and Tangkoko.
Green-backed Kingfisher ◊ (Black-headed K) Actenoides [monachus] capucinus heard-only.
Scaly-breasted Kingfisher ◊ (Regal K) Actenoides [princeps] regalis Great views of two individuals on Gunung Mahawu.
Common Paradise Kingfisher ◊ Tanysiptera galatea An unusually prolonged view of one sat in the open at Foli.
Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher ◊ Cittura cyanotis Seen at Toraut, three more at Tangkoko.
Great-billed Kingfisher ◊ Pelargopsis melanorhyncha A total of our at Tangkoko and Grand Luley.
Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda One seen well at Tangkoko.
Blue-and-white Kingfisher ◊ Todiramphus diops
Sombre Kingfisher ◊ Todiramphus funebris A vocal bird seen well on the Buli road.
Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris
Beach Kingfisher ◊ Todiramphus saurophagus
Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus
Common Kingfisher ◊ (Hispid K) Alcedo [atthis] hispidoides
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ Ceyx fallax Always a favourite, we were lucky to be guided to one at Tangkoko.
Moluccan Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ Ceyx [lepidus] uropygialis non-leader.
Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus
Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus
Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker ◊ Yungipicus temminckii
Ashy Woodpecker ◊ Mulleripicus fulvus
Spotted Kestrel (Indonesian K) Falco moluccensis
Oriental Hobby Falco severus Distant dots at dusk morphed into a pair of these, on the Buli road.
White Cockatoo ◊ Cacatua alba
Moluccan King Parrot ◊ Alisterus amboinensis A splendid pair seen several times, on Halmahera.
Golden-mantled Racket-tail ◊ (Sulawesi Racquet-t) Prioniturus platurus
Yellow-breasted Racket-tail ◊ (Minahasa Racquet-t) Prioniturus flavicans A good look at these buglers at Tangkoko.
Moluccan Eclectus Eclectus roratus
Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi
Great-billed Parrot ◊ Tanygnathus megalorynchos Not uncommon in the Moluccas.
Azure-rumped Parrot ◊ (Blue-backed P) Tanygnathus [sumatranus] sumatranus
Red-flanked Lorikeet ◊ Hypocharmosyna placentis An attractive bird seen often in the Moluccas.
Chattering Lory ◊ Lorius garrulus A pre-roost gathering of several dozen on Halmahera was a first for me.
Yellow-cheeked Lorikeet ◊ Saudareos meyeri
Ornate Lorikeet ◊ Saudareos ornata A couple at Lore Lindu were the only ones seen.
Violet-necked Lory ◊ Eos squamata
Great Hanging Parrot ◊ (Large S H P) Loriculus stigmatus
Moluccan Hanging Parrot ◊ Loriculus amabilis Seen well on Bacan.
Pygmy Hanging Parrot ◊ (Small Sulawesi H P) Loriculus exilis
Sulawesi Pitta ◊ Erythropitta celebensis A wonderful individual watched at close range at Gunung Mahawu.
North Moluccan Pitta ◊ Erythropitta rufiventris One seen on Obi, where common by voice.
Ivory-breasted Pitta ◊ Pitta maxima After many hours spent trying, we finally had some reasonable views on Halmahera.
Ivory-breasted Pitta ◊ (Morotai P) Pitta [maxima] morotaiensis Glimpses of furtive birds on Morotai.
Dark-eared Myza ◊ Myza celebensis
White-eared Myza ◊ Myza sarasinorum
White-streaked Friarbird ◊ (Halmahera F) Melitograis gilolensis
Dusky Myzomela ◊ (Moluccan M) Myzomela [obscura] simplex
Dusky Myzomela ◊ (Obi M) Myzomela [obscura] rubrotincta ‘Reddish-tinged’ if you like.
Sulawesi Myzomela ◊ Myzomela chloroptera
Morotai Friarbird ◊ (Dusky F) Philemon fuscicapillus Common, noisy and melodic on our first outing on Morotai
Golden-bellied Gerygone (Sulawesi G, Flyeater) Gerygone [sulphurea] flaveola
White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus
Ivory-backed Woodswallow ◊ Artamus monachus A pair at Lore Lindu, also seen at Tapakolintang.
Cerulean Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina temminckii
Pied Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina bicolor
White-rumped Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina leucopygia
White-bellied Cuckooshrike (Papuan C) Coracina papuensis
Moluccan Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina atriceps A distant pair on the Buli road, but close at Foli.
Sulawesi Cicadabird ◊ Edolisoma morio
Common Cicadabird ◊ (Obi C, Wallacean C) Edolisoma tenuirostre
Halmahera Cuckooshrike ◊ (H Cicadabird) Edolisoma parvulum Several seen high on the Buli road.
Pygmy Cuckooshrike ◊ (Mountain Cicadabird) Celebesica abbotti
White-shouldered Triller ◊ Lalage sueurii
Rufous-bellied Triller ◊ Lalage aurea
White-rumped Triller ◊ (Sulawesi T) Lalage leucopygialis Seen well at Tapakolintang, also at Tangkoko.
Sulphur-vented Whistler ◊ (S-bellied W, Yellow-vented W) Pachycephala sulfuriventer
Black-chinned Whistler ◊ (Halmahera W, Moluccan W) Pachycephala mentalis Nice views on Halmahera and Bacan.
Drab Whistler ◊ Pachycephala griseonota
Cinnamon-breasted Whistler ◊ Pachycephala johni Common on Obi, probably the main songbird there.
Dusky-brown Oriole ◊ (Halmahera O) Oriolus phaeochromus
Black-naped Oriole ◊ (Sulawesi Golden O) Oriolus [chinensis] frontalis
Sulawesi Drongo ◊ (S Spangled D) Dicrurus montanus
Spangled Drongo ◊ (Bacan S D) Dicrurus [bracteatus] sp./ssp. nov
Spangled Drongo ◊ (Morotai S D) Dicrurus [bracteatus] morotensis
Spangled Drongo ◊ (Halmahera S D) Dicrurus [bracteatus] atrocaeruleus
Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (White-eyed Spangled D) Dicrurus [hottentottus] leucops
Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (Obi Spangled D) Dicrurus [hottentottus] guillemardi
Willie Wagtail (W Fantail) Rhipidura leucophrys
Northern Fantail ◊ Rhipidura [rufiventris] obiensis One seen well on Obi.
Sulawesi Fantail ◊ (Rusty-bellied F) Rhipidura teysmanni
Pale-blue Monarch ◊ Hypothymis puella
Moluccan Monarch ◊ (Halmahera Spectacled M, Wallacean M) Symposiachrus bimaculatus
White-naped Monarch ◊ Carterornis [pileatus] pileatus Just a single seen on Halmahera.
Moluccan Flycatcher ◊ (M Monarch, Slaty F) Myiagra galeata
Shining Flycatcher ◊ (Moluccan S Monarch, Shining M) Myiagra alecto
Piping Crow ◊ Corvus typicus Seen well at Malino.
Slender-billed Crow ◊ (Sulawesi C) Corvus [enca] celebensis
Long-billed Crow ◊ Corvus validus
Torresian Crow (Australian C) Corvus orru Seen well on Obi.
Halmahera Paradise-crow ◊ (Morotai P-c) Lycocorax [pyrrhopterus] morotensis A flyby glimpse was the only sighting.
Halmahera Paradise-crow ◊ (Halmahera P-c) Lycocorax [pyrrhopterus] pyrrhopterus
Obi Paradise-crow ◊ Lycocorax obiensis A totally different character to the above, with exotic calls.
Standardwing ◊ (Wallace’s S) Semioptera wallacii A great show at the Foli lek.
Hylocitrea ◊ (Northern H) Hylocitrea [bonensis] bonensis One seen well at Lore Lindu, lurking in a berry bush.
Citrine Canary-flycatcher ◊ Culicicapa helianthea
Northern Golden Bulbul ◊ (Halmahera G B) Hypsipetes [longirostris] chloris
Northern Golden Bulbul ◊ (Obi G B) Hypsipetes [longirostris] lucasi
Yellow-vented Bulbul (introduced) Pycnonotus goiavier
Sooty-headed Bulbul (introduced) Pycnonotus aurigaster
Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
Mountain Tailorbird (M Leaftoiler) Phyllergates cucullatus
Sulawesi Leaf Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus nesophilus
Lompobattang Leaf Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus sarasinorum
Island Leaf Warbler ◊ (Halmahera/North Moluccan L W) Phylloscopus [poliocephalus] henrietta
Australian Reed Warbler (Australasian R W) Acrocephalus australis
Sulawesi Bush Warbler ◊ (S Grasshopper W, Chestnut-backed B W) Locustella castanea
Malia ◊ Malia grata Rather furtive at Lore Lindu, showing better at Gunung Ambang.
Tawny Grassbird Cincloramphus timoriensis heard-only.
Zitting Cisticola (Double Zitting C) Cisticola juncidis
Streak-headed White-eye ◊ (Sulawesi Heleia, S-h Dark-e) Heleia squamiceps
Warbling White-eye Zosterops japonicus
Lemon-bellied White-eye ◊ Zosterops chloris
Black-crowned White-eye ◊ (B-fronted W-e) Zosterops atrifrons
Black-ringed White-eye ◊ Zosterops anomalus Seen at Karaenta forest.
Morotai White-eye ◊ Zosterops dehaani
Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Obi W-e) Zosterops [atriceps] sp./ssp. nov
Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Halmahera W-e) Zosterops [atriceps] fuscifrons
Cream-throated White-eye ◊ (Bacan W-e) Zosterops [atriceps] atriceps
Sulawesi Babbler ◊ Pellorneum celebense
Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica
Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis
Moluccan Starling ◊ Aplonis mysolensis
Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor
Sulawesi Myna ◊ (S Crested M, Short-crested M) Basilornis celebensis Two at Tapakolintang.
White-necked Myna ◊ (Northern W-n M) Streptocitta [albicollis] torquata
Fiery-browed Starling ◊ Enodes erythrophris
Grosbeak Starling ◊ (Finch-billed Myna) Scissirostrum dubium In good number at Tangkoko.
Javan Myna (introduced) Acridotheres javanicus
Geomalia ◊ Zoothera heinrichi A nice surprise to see this on the Anaso track.
Red-backed Thrush ◊ Geokichla erythronota A trio at Tangkoko were a welcome sight.
Sulawesi Thrush ◊ Turdus turdoides One seen well at Lore Lindu.
Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis omissus
Blue-fronted Blue Flycatcher Eumyias hoevelli
Matinan Blue Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias sanfordi An underwhelming fellow, seen at Gunung Ambang.
Turquoise Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias [panayensis] septentrionalis
Great Shortwing ◊ Heinrichia calligyna Skulking as ever, we managed to see one near Lake Tambing.
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata
Yellow-sided Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum aureolimbatum
Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum nehrkorni A single seen at Malino.
Halmahera Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum schistaceiceps
Grey-sided Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum celebicum
Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis
Black Sunbird ◊ Leptocoma aspasia
Olive-backed Sunbird (Sahul S) Cinnyris [jugularis] frenatus
Crimson Sunbird ◊ (Sulawesi Crimson S) Aethopyga [siparaja] flavostriata
Eurasian Tree Sparrow (introduced) Passer montanus
Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar Plenty coming to roost at Makassar saltpans, also seen nesting at Bantimurung.
Java Sparrow (introduced) Padda oryzivora A flock of 25 near Kotamobagu.
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
Black-faced Munia ◊ Lonchura molucca
Chestnut Munia (introduced) Lonchura atricapilla
Pale-headed Munia ◊ Lonchura pallida
Indonesian Serin ◊ (Mountain S) Chrysocorythus estherae A fly-over flock of four at Lore Lindu.
MAMMALS
Sulawesi Bear Cuscus Ailurops ursinus Three seen at Tangkoko, all high up in tall trees.
Obi Cuscus Phalanger rothschildi Two seen well on Obi, one carrying young in its pouch.
Bryde’s Whale Balaenoptera brydei A group of 4-5 seen quite well en route to Obi.
Risso’s Dolphin Grampus griseus Superb views of ten between Tobelo and Subaim.
Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris
Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops aduncus
Moluccan Flying Fox Pteropus chrysoproctus Presumed to be this species on Obi.
Spectral Tarsier Tarsius tarsier A cute family of three at Tangkoko.
Moor Macaque Macaca maura
Celebes Crested Macaque Macaca nigra
Sanghir Islands Tree Squirrel Prosciurillus leucomus Seen at Tangkoko, with the whitish neck patch.
North Sulawesi Tree Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus The widespread little one.