REMOTE ISLANDS OF THE BANDA SEA, INDONESIA – a true adventure in search of island endemics but in comfort

PRICE INFORMATION

Birdquest Inclusions: Our tour prices include surface transportation, accommodations, meals and entrance fees.

We also include all tipping for local guides, drivers, our boat crew and shore-based accommodation/restaurant staff.

Deposit: 20% of the total tour price. Our office will let you know what deposit amount is due, in order to confirm your booking, following receipt of your online booking form.

TO BOOK THIS TOUR: Click here (you will need the tour dates)

The single supplement applies to the nights at Saumlaki.

It may be possible for us to provide a single-occupancy cabin on board the boat, although this may have to be at a significant supplement. Please contact us if you are interested in a single-occupancy cabin.

The single supplement will not apply if you indicate on booking that you prefer to share a cabin/room, even if there is no room-mate of the same sex available.

This tour is priced in US Dollars. Amounts shown in other currencies are indicative.

Air Travel To & From The Tour: Our in-house IATA ticket agency will be pleased to arrange your air travel on request, or you may arrange this yourself if you prefer.

REMOTE ISLANDS OF THE BANDA SEA, INDONESIA BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY

Banda Sea, Indonesia: Day 1 Our Banda Sea birding tour begins this morning at Saumlaki Airport on the island of Yamdena.

(Flights into Saumlaki are generally only from the island of Ambon, which is served by frequent flights from Jakarta and Makassar (formerly Ujung Pandang). We will be pleased to assist with domestic flights in Indonesia on request.)

This afternoon we will begin our exploration of endemic-rich Yamdena.

Banda Sea, Indonesia: Days 2-4  The Tanimbar Islands form the easternmost group of the Lesser Sundas (Nusa Tenggara) and, from a zoogeographical standpoint, are not part of the Moluccas, although politically they are considered part of Maluku. Currently, 15 species of birds are strictly endemic to the archipelago, and there are a number of near-endemics shared with the Kai Islands or with Babar and/or Damar.

In the past, there were some violent clashes between logging companies and local villagers over the irresponsible destruction (i.e. absolute clearing) of the forests on Yamdena, but luckily the situation has long since calmed down, and the locals concentrate once again on farming, fishing, ikat weaving and the carving of ‘patongs’ or wooden figures.

We will explore patches of forest along the main road that runs along the east coast of the island. Logging trails provide access to some good stands of forest and the mosaic of scrub, grassland and secondary growth will also provide us with some exciting birding.

Tanimbar Corella (or Tanimbar Cockatoo) is one of the most wanted endemics in this part of Indonesia, and can still be found easily, although the two endemic thrushes are much more dramatic in appearance. Diligent searching of the tracks and watercourses should reveal the presence of the Fawn-breasted Thrush, whilst the strikingly-patterned and more obvious Slaty-backed Thrush prefers the subcanopy.

The endemic Tanimbar Stubtail (or Tanimbar Bush Warbler) is a skulker that will need the right amount of careful coaxing before good views will be obtained. This species was only described as recently as 1987.

Bird flocks often hold the endemic Cinnamon-tailed and Long-tailed (or Charming) Fantails, together with the endemic fulviventris form of the Broad-billed Flycatcher (or Broad-billed Monarch) and the endemic Tanimbar (or Loetoe) Monarch. In the understorey, we will encounter the endemic Tanimbar Flycatcher, while the brightly-coloured endemic Golden-bellied Flyrobin tends to sit in the open.

Flowering trees often attract flocks of unobtrusive endemic Tanimbar Starlings and gaudy endemic Blue-streaked Lories. Range-restricted species such as Elegant (or Yellow-eyed) and Pink-headed Imperial Pigeons, Rose-crowned Fruit Dove (of the modestly-hued xanthogaster race,), the superb Wallace’s Fruit-Dove and the endemic Tanimbar Cuckoo-Dove gather in fruiting trees, while the splendid, near-endemic Pied Bronze Cuckoo (often lumped in Little Bronze) leads a quiet life hiding in the canopy. The endemic White-browed (or Tanimbar) Triller often poses in the treetops and the dainty, regionally endemic Rufous-sided (or Banda Sea) Gerygone flits about in the mid-storey.

We will go out at night, armed with a spotlight to try for the more straightforward endemic Tanimbar Boobook and, with persistence and just a bit of luck, we will also encounter the endemic nominate form of the Moluccan Masked Owl. Eastern Barn Owl is also possible.

Other special birds we can expect to encounter on Yamdena include the endemic Tanimbar Oriole, the near-endemic Tanimbar Friarbird (shared with Kai), the near-endemic Tanimbar Myzomela (shared with Babar and lumped in Banda Myzomela by IOC), the near-endemic Black-bibbed (or Banda Sea) Monarch, the near-endemic Violet-hooded Starling (shared with Damar) and the endemic Pink-breasted (or Salvadori’s) Flowerpecker.

The shy endemic Tanimbar Megapode (or Tanimbar Scrubfowl) inhabits the dark forest interior and can be heard duetting in the vicinity of its huge nest mounds, It is definitely the hardest Tanimbar endemic to see on Yamdena itself and is much easier on the offshore islets where hunting is absent or reduced. We will travel by boat to one or two such small islands where we have a very good chance of success. Other birds on these islets include Pacific Reef Heron, Australian Pelican, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Pacific Golden Plover, Ruddy Turnstone, Common Sandpiper, Island Monarch and at this season, with luck, migrant Little Curlews.

A spectacular rock is home to breeding Greater Crested, Bridled and Black-naped Terns, Great and Lesser Frigatebirds, Brown Booobies and Little Black Cormorants.

Other species of note include Bonelli’s Eagle (of the form renschi, known as Rensch’s Eagle), the eye-catching Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Spotted (or Indonesian) Kestrel, Wallacean Cuckooshrike (of the endemic form unimoda, a potential split as Tanimbar Cuckooshrike), the restricted-range Yellow-throated and Wallacean Whistlers, Arafura (or Supertramp) Fantail, the endemic ‘Tanimbar Spangled’ Drongo (sometimes split from Wallacean), Scaly-breasted (or Banda) Honeyeater, Ashy-bellied White-eye, Five-coloured Munia and the gorgeous Tricoloured Parrotfinch. At this time of year, migrant Oriental Plovers are fairly regular on Yamdena, but we could encounter this special bird anywhere on the tour.

More widespread species include Australasian Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Nankeen (or Rufous) Night Heron, Pied and Striated Herons, Eastern Cattle, Little and Great Egrets, Glossy and Uniform Swiftlets, Australian Pratincole, Variable Goshawk, Brahminy Kite, Pacific Baza, Whiskered Tern, Pacific Emerald and Barred Doves, Lesser Coucal, Brush Cuckoo, Collared and Sacred Kingfishers, Oriental Dollarbird, Australian Hobby, Eclectus, Red-cheeked and Great-billed Parrots, Pacific and Barn Swallows, Shining Flycatcher (or Shining Monarch), White-breasted Woodswallow, Tawny Grassbird, Golden-headed Cisticola, Metallic Starling, Scaly-breasted Munia and Eurasian Tree Sparrow.

Uncommon possibilities include Radjah Shelduck, Great-billed Heron, Brown and King Quails, the impressive Channel-billed Cuckoo, the attractive Azure Kingfisher and the surprisingly scarce Torresian Crow.

Banda Sea, Indonesia: Day 5  Our Banda Sea cruise starts this morning as we embark on our very comfortable schooner (phinisi) the Lady Denok and set sail for the island of Babar, which is situated to the southwest of Tanimbar. We have the next 13 nights on board.

As we leave the Tanimbar Archipelago we will likely make a short stop at a small island where we may well find Beach Stone-curlew (or Beach Thicknee) and Pied Oystercatcher. We also have another chance here for Tanimbar Megapode, should we have had unusually bad luck earlier.

Numbers of seabirds should entertain us during the daylight crossings between the islands. The most likely seabird species during our voyage include Brown and Red-footed Boobies (both numerous at times), Great and Lesser Frigatebirds, Wilson’s Storm Petrel, Tahiti and Bulwer’s Petrels, the rare and poorly-known Heinroth’s Shearwater, Streaked Shearwater, Pomarine, Parasitic (or Arctic) and Long-tailed Jaegers, Brown Noddy and Sooty, Bridled, Sooty, Black-naped, Common and Greater Crested Terns. In addition, Red-necked Phalaropes migrate to the Banda Sea to overwinter. Less common species include White-tailed and Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Wedge-tailed Shearwater and Aleutian and Little Terns.

During this cruise the potential of finding something unexpected is high. In recent times, a series of rarities have been sighted in the Banda Sea, including Red-billed Tropicbird, Swinhoe’s and Matsudaira’s Storm Petrels, Tropical Shearwater, Christmas (Island) Frigatebird, Masked Booby, Spectacled (or Grey-backed) Terns and even Abbott’s Booby (recorded by Birdquest on our 2022 Banda Sea cruise), so we will be keeping a careful eye out for whatever turns up.

During the inter-island crossings, we will also encounter a number of cetaceans. The most regular are Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed and Spinner Dolphins. The huge Blue Whale and Great Sperm Whale are quite regularly recorded and less frequent sightings include Pantropical Spotted, Risso’s and Rough-toothed Dolphins, Short-finned Pilot Whale, Bryde’s, Fin, Sei and Melon-headed Whales and False and Pygmy Killer Whales. A remarkable diversity of species!

At this season we can also expect to encounter a good selection of Palearctic landbird and coastal wetland migrants from northern Eurasia during our Banda Sea voyage, although which islands we see individual species on varies widely from trip to trip. Many of these migrants are shorebirds, but there are also passerines and others. Among the most likely species are Oriental Cuckoo, Pacific Swift, Pacific Golden Plover, the sought-after Oriental Plover and Little Curlew (surprisingly regular in the Banda Sea area in late September and October), Grey-tailed Tattler, Terek, Common and Marsh Sandpipers, Common Greenshank, White-winged and Whiskered Terns, Osprey, Crested (or Oriental) Honey Buzzard, Barn Swallow and Eastern Yellow and Grey Wagtails.

More uncommon migrant possibilities include White-throated Needletail, Grey (or Black-bellied) and Greater Sand Plovers, Wood Sandpiper, Common Redshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Red-necked Stint, Far Eastern (or Eastern) Curlew, Chinese Goshawk, Japanese Sparrowhawk and Grey-streaked Flycatcher.

Banda Sea, Indonesia: Days 6-17  Exploring the islands of the Banda Sea.

BABAR

Babar island is roughly 30 kilometres (18 miles) across and shares most of its avifauna with the much larger island of Timor and the Tanimbar archipelago. During our visit we will be birding through a variety of woodlands, searching in particular for ‘Babar Whistler’, a distinctive form likely to be split from Yellow-throated Whistler.

The supporting cast should include Banded (or Black-backed), Wallace’s and Rose-crowned Fruit Doves, Pacific Emerald Dove, ‘Banda Bronze’ Cuckoo (moistly lumped in Little Bronze), Cinnamon-banded and Collared Kingfishers, Scaly-breasted (or Banda or White-tufted) Honeyeater, Tanimbar Myzomela, Rufous-sided (or Banda Sea) Gerygone, Wallacean Whistler, White-breasted Woodswallow, Arafura (or Supertramp) Fantail, Cinnamon-tailed Fantail (the form occurring on Babar has a distinctive song and could represent a different species from the Tanimbar population), Island and Black-bibbed  (or Banda Sea) Monarchs, Orange-sided Thrush, Blue-cheeked (or Red-chested) Flowerpecker and Tricoloured Parrotfinch.

At dusk, we will look in particular for the endemic subspecies of the Australian Boobook, known as ‘Babar Boobook’, which is morphologically strikingly different from its southern counterpart (with its rich cinnamon body and grey face) and may represent a different species (despite its similar vocalisations). Large-tailed Nightjar and Eastern Barn Owl are also possible.

From Babar, we sail northwestwards to the island of Damar.

DAMAR

Damar is a small but spectacular island of roughly 20 kilometres (12 miles) diameter. Shaped rather like a dinosaur’s head complete with an open mouth, Damar is dominated by a huge volcano with smoking fumaroles and entering the large bay in the southeast of the island gives one the feeling of entering the dragon’s mouth!

Damar hosts one of the most exciting endemics of the whole cruise, Damar Flycatcher, whose range is entirely restricted to this tiny island. It was discovered in 1898 by a German collector and remained unseen for 103 years, before being rediscovered in 2001 by a Birdlife International expedition led by Colin Trainor. Since then, only a small number of birders have reached the island to see this species, considered one of the most inaccessible on Earth. We will be walking uphill in moist tropical forest in search of this distinctive endemic, which happily is fairly common.

Other species on Damar include Rose-crowned and Banded (or Black-backed) Fruit Doves, Elegant (or Yellow-eyed) and Pink-headed Imperial Pigeons, Little Bronze Cuckoo, Variable Goshawk, Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Scaly-breasted (or Banda or White-tufted) Honeyeater, ‘Damar Whistler’ (currently often treated as a subspecies of the Yellow-throated Whistler), the restricted-range Wallacean Whistler, ‘Banda Sea Fantail’, Spectacled Monarch, Black-bibbed Monarch (found only on Damar, Babar and Tanimbar), Orange-sided Thrush and Blue-cheeked (or Red-chested) Flowerpecker.

From Damar, we will cruise southwestwards towards our next destination, the island of Leti.

LETI

This remote, arid island (one of the driest in Indonesia) holds Grey (or Kisar) Friarbird, which is endemic to the three small islands of Kisar, Leti and Moa, making it one of Indonesia’s most range-restricted and inaccessible species.

Other new birds may well include Brown Goshawk, Metallic Pigeon, Rose-crowned Fruit Dove, the rufomenus subspecies of the Little Bronze Cuckoo (initially described as a distinct species and known as ‘Banda Bronze Cuckoo’), the restricted-range Drab Swiftlet, Paddyfield Pipit, Scaly-breasted (or Banda or White-tufted) Honeyeater, the restricted-range Fawn-breasted Whistler, ‘Banda Sea’ Fantail (a proposed split from Northern) and Sunda Zebra Finch. Brown Quail is also a possibility.

As dusk falls we will be looking for the near-endemic moae subspecies of the Australian (or Southern) Boobook, another potential split. We may also come across Savanna Nightjar.

After boarding our boat again we head westwards towards our next destination, the island of Wetar.

WETAR

Wetar, while politically part of the Maluku (or Moluccas) islands, is geographically part of the Lesser Sundas and shares most of its avifauna with the nearby island of Timor. However, a number of species are either endemic to Wetar or easier to see on Wetar. These will be our main targets during our visit.

Without a doubt, our number one target will be Wetar Ground Dove, an endangered species which was not recorded for over 100 years, before being rediscovered on Wetar by the Columbidae Conservation charity and found to be locally abundant. We will be walking in a deep, pristine wooded gorge in search of this very special bird which otherwise only still occurs in East Timor (Timor Leste) where it is apparently extremely rare.

Those having already travelled elsewhere in the Lesser Sundas will be stunned by the abundance of pigeons and doves, thanks to the absence of widespread hunting and trapping on Wetar. This will be obvious during the course of the day, as Timor and Black Cuckoo-Doves, Timor Imperial Pigeon (which is nowadays very difficult at accessible sites in West Timor), Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon and Banded (or Black-backed) Fruit Dove thrive on this island, giving the best possible observation opportunities.

We will keep our eyes peeled for other Wetar endemics including Black-necklaced Honeyeater, Wetar (or Crimson-hooded) Myzomela, Wetar Oriole and Wetar Figbird. At night, or even at a daytime roost, we will be looking for the endemic Wetar Scops Owl.

We will also look for several species shared only with the nearby island of Timor (and sometimes Rote) including the uncommon Iris Lorikeet, Jonquil (or Olive-shouldered) Parrot, the so far undescribed ‘Timor Nightjar’, ‘Timor Cuckooshrike’ (a potential split from Wallacean), ‘Timor Spangled’ Drongo (sometimes split from Wallacean), ‘Timor Fantail’ (a proposed split from Northern), Timor Stubtail, Timor Leaf Warbler (the form on Wetar probably represents a distinct species) and Timor Blue (or Timor Warbling) Flycatcher.

We will also be seeing our first Scaly-breasted (or Banda or White-tufted) Honeyeaters, endemic to the islands of the eastern part of the Banda Sea.

Species of a somewhat wider distribution include Bonelli’s Eagle of the isolated subspecies renschi (known as ‘Rensch’s’ Eagle and a potential split), Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Marigold Lorikeet, Red-cheeked Parrot, Plain (or Timor) Gerygone, Rusty-breasted Whistler, Arafura (or Supertramp) Fantail, Orange-sided (or Orange-banded Thrush), Ashy-bellied White-eye, Tawny Grassbird and Blue-cheeked (or Red-chested) Flowerpecker. Spotted Dove and Common Kingfisher are also likely.

From Wetar, we will sail westwards towards Alor.

ALOR

We will spend plenty of time on the island of Alor, where the recently described Alor Myzomela and also ‘Alor Cuckooshrike’ (the alfrediana taxon is currently grouped under Wallacean Cuckooshrike but lacks sexual dimorphism) will be two of our main endemic targets. Pristine eucalyptus forest patches still remain near the highest point of the island and are the prime habitat for these species. Another important target, but not an easy one by any means, is ‘Eucalypt Cuckoo-Dove’ (an undescribed form that is vocally distinct from Little Cuckoo-Dove).

Other likely birds in this habitat include the smart Banded (or Black-backed) Fruit Dove, the sylvestris form of the Variable Goshawk (split by Birdlife International as Lesser Sundas Goshawk), Olive-headed Lorikeet and Sunda Bush Warbler (the forms kolichisi on Alor and everetti on Timor and Wetar may well represent different species).

Another important target is ‘Timor Bush Warbler’. The form timorensis is currently lumped in Javan Bush Warbler (which is also known, far more aptly, as Sunda Grasshopper Warbler) but is not recorded these days on tours visiting West Timor. Flores Green Pigeon is also quite possible but is not an easy bird on either Flores or Alor.

We will also have opportunities to observe two critically endangered species, Flores Hawk-Eagle and Yellow-crested Cockatoo. Now that Komodo has been rendered very difficult of access by the Indonesian government, Alor is probably the best remaining site for this rapidly declining cockatoo. While the cockatoo is fairly straightforward to find the hawk-eagle is decidedly uncommon.

At lower altitudes, dry forest is inhabited by typical Lesser Sundas specialities like Ornate Pitta, Barred Dove, Black-fronted Flowerpecker and Flame-breasted Sunbird, as well as Broad-billed Flycatcher (or Broad-billed Monarch).

As dusk falls we will be looking for the near-endemic Alor Boobook (shared with Pantar) as well as the range-restricted Mees’s Nightjar.

Other species likely on Alor include Common (or Asian) Emerald Dove, Black-naped Fruit Dove, Edible-nest Swiftlet, Pacific Koel, ‘Sunda Brush’ Cuckoo (often lumped in Rusty-breasted), Lesser Coucal, White-breasted Waterhen,  Rainbow Bee-eater, Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, Spotted (or Indonesian) Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon, Wallacean Drongo (the form here sometimes being split as Flores Spangled Drongo), Helmeted Friarbird, the limbata form of the Brown Honeyeater (sometimes split as Indonesian Honeyeatear), White-shouldered (or Leseur’s) Triller, Long-tailed Shrike, Large-billed Crow, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Cinereous Tit, Pacific and Striated Swallows, Tree Martin, Zitting Cisticola, Short-tailed Starling, Lesser Pied Flycatcher, Lesser Shortwing, Pied Bush Chat, Ornate Sunbird and Scaly-breasted, Black-faced, Pale-headed and Five-coloured Munias. In addition, Black-winged Kite, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Barred Buttonquail, Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher, Black-naped Monarch, Warbling White-eye, Lesser Shortwing and Pale-headed Munia are also possible.

From Alor, we will travel westward towards the island of Pantar and then onwards towards Kalaotoa. We will have a good opportunity to see both seabirds and cetaceans on this leg of the journey. In particular, this is the best area for the uncommon but very regular Heinroth’s Shearwater.

PANTAR

We are not very likely to need to call at Pantar, as we are coming from the east and will most likely have seen everything on Alor. However, Pantar is a backup site for a few species if needed.

KALAOTOA

A visit to the small island of Kalaotoa will give us an opportunity to find two distinctive endemic subspecies of Arafura (or Supertramp) Fantail and Rufous-sided (or Banda Sea) Gerygone, both shared with the neighbouring island of Madu, which we don’t want to miss in case they get split in the future. Kalaotoa is also a good place to find the aptly named Elegant Pitta and Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo (often lumped in Little Bronze).

We will then sail further westwards across the Banda Sea towards the islands of Tanahjampea and Kalao in the Flores Sea.

TANAHJAMPEA

The island of Tanahjampea is around 25 kilometres (27 miles) long and is situated between the huge islands of Sulawesi and Flores. Its remoteness means that only very few birders have ever visited the island, despite its specialities.

On Tanahjampea we will mainly be looking for three seldom-recorded species; Tanahjampea Blue Flycatcher (or Tanahjampea Jungle Flycatcher), Tanahjampea (or White-tipped) Monarch and Flores Sea Cuckoo-Dove.

The endangered Tanahjampea Monarch is endemic to the island. Tanahjampea Blue Flycatcher is also endemic to Tanahjampea (unless the Cyornis blue flycatcher form kalaoensis on nearby Kalao is lumped with it rather than lumped with Mangrove Blue Flycatcher as at present by the IOC or treated as a distinct species). Flores Sea Cuckoo-Dove and Flores Sea Sunbird are endemic to several small islands in the region.

Other likely species include Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Elegant (or Yellow-eyed), Pink-headed and Pied Imperial Pigeons, Great-billed Heron, Pacific Reef Heron, Javan Pond Heron, Pacific Baza, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Elegant Pitta (of the form virginalis), Sulawesi Myzomela, Black-naped Oriole, Arafura (or Supertramp) Fantail, Lemon-bellied White-eye and Blue-cheeked (or Red-chested) Flowerpecker. There are also chances for Sunda Teal and Pink-necked and Grey-cheeked Green Pigeons.

KALAO

The nearby island of Kalao hosts another endemic, the lovely Kalao Blue Flycatcher, now treated as a full species. (It was formerly subsumed in either Tanahjampea Blue Flycatcher or Mangrove Blue Flycatcher.) Malaysian Plover is another good bird found on Kalao.

During our visit to Kalao, we will most likely have time for a final snorkelling session on the wonderful reefs before the heat diminishes and we can enjoy looking for the endemic flycatcher.

Around sunset, we will set sail for Labuanbajo.

Banda Sea, Indonesia: Day 14  This morning we arrive at the port of Labuanbajo in western Flores. Our adventure will be coming to an end and we must bid farewell to Lady Denok and her fantastic crew. A transfer to the airport will be provided.

(There are regular flights from Labuanbajo to Denpasar in Bali and to Jakarta. We will be pleased to provide domestic flight tickets on request.)