The Ultimate In Birding Tours

Africa (and its islands)

GABON’S LOANGO NATIONAL PARK – African River Martins, Vermiculated Fish Owls & Western Gorillas

GABON’S LOANGO NATIONAL PARK: OVERVIEW

Birdquest’s Gabon’s Loango National Park tours explore one of the richest countries in Western Africa for birds. Our Gabon birding tour visits an African country that has laid aside about 10% of its entire territory as national parks and reserves, but also a land that is one of the most expensive countries for tourism in Africa, thanks to its oil, gas and mineral wealth. The upside here is fantastic forest and wetland birding in an under-populated country with a fairly good infrastructure and lots of superb habitat remaining. One of Africa’s ultimate birds, the much-wanted African River Martin, breeds here and we will be there to see it, while a host of other great African rainforest and savanna species, many of which are restricted to West-Central Africa, put the delicious icing on a great birding cake.

Gabon, a small, unknown and under-birded Western African country, sandwiched between Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea and the Congo, has a human population of only two million and a remarkable wealth of minerals, oil and gas that has given the country one of the highest per capita incomes in Africa (and probably the highest cost of living on the continent), although only a small percentage of the population has seen much benefit from these resources.

Even more remarkably these days, it is still 70% covered by pristine, primaeval rainforest. The Gabonese jungle belt, the biggest intact forest area in all of Africa and one of the biggest in the world, has the highest diversity of tree and bird species for a given area anywhere in the continent (with over 670 bird species recorded from the country).

This then is a special opportunity for those interested in seeing the little-known birds of a seldom-visited corner of West-Central Africa.

Our Gabon’;s Loango National Park tour starts at the modern, ocean-side city of Libreville, from where we shall head southwards to Loango National Park on Gabon’s Atlantic coast. This seldom-visited area is a real gem, and gives us the opportunity to see the strange-looking, restricted-range and highly-desired African River Martin, quite possibly in large numbers.

Whilst exploring the rivers, coastal lagoons and gallery forests we should also come across a number of other inviting species, including both the restricted-range Vermiculated Fish Owl and the impressive Pel’s Fish Owl, Hartlaub’s Duck, the scarce Forbes’s Plover, Damara Tern, Black Guineafowl, Bates’s Nightjar, the superb Rosy Bee-eater, Chattering Cisticola, Long-legged Pipit,  the beautiful Violet-tailed Sunbird and Loango Weaver. White-crested Tiger Heron and Bare-cheeked Trogon are rarer possibilities.

Loango is also good for mammals, with Forest Elephant, African Forest Buffalo, Hippopotamus, Western Sitatunga, Red River Hog, several species of monkeys and even a near-certain opportunity to watch Western Lowland Gorillas!

By the time we finally return to Libreville we will have seen a superb selection of Western African birds (and mammals) in one of the few countries in the region where pristine wilderness is not just a memory.

Birdquest has operated Gabon tours since 1995.

Gorilla Tracking at Loango: We consider an outing to see the Western Gorillas at Loango National Park to be a real highlight. It is, however, an optional excursion owing to both the high cost and the fact we recognize the fact that some birders have little interest in mammals. The optional gorilla tracking usually involves only part of a day, but it can be quite long distance (up to 5 hours return) and may involve wading through wet areas. Currently the gorilla project require all those over 65 to have a medical certificate from their doctor stating they are fit to go gorilla trekking in difficult terrain for up to 5 hours. If you go Western Gorilla tracking you are unlikely to miss any major Loango bird speciality as a result.

Accommodation & Road Transport: At Loango we will be staying in comfortable tented, safari-style camps. The large walk-in tents have en suite bathrooms. The hotel in Libreville is of a good standard. Road transport is limited and is by minibus/passenger van at Libreville and by 4×4 vehicles at Loango. Road conditions vary from good to poor.

Walking: The walking effort during our Gabon tour is mostly easy.

Climate: The weather will be warm or hot (and often humid), with dry and sunny weather interspersed with overcast and possibly some rainy spells.

Bird Photography: Opportunities during our Gabon tour are quite good.

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS

  • Experiencing a gathering of strange African River Martins and glorious Rosy Bee-eaters.
  • An excellent chance to view both Pel’s and Vermiculated Fishing Owls along the rivers, as well as the seldom-seen White-crested Tiger Heron.
  • Seeing the restricted-range Loango Weaver and beautiful Violet-tailed Sunbird.
  • The opportunity to watch an extended family of extraordinary and impressive Western Lowland Gorillas.
  • Watching the heavyweight, handsome Black-headed Bee-eater hiding on the edge of the forest-savanna mosaic.
  • Getting close to Forest Elephants and Forest Buffaloes.
  • Close up encounters with crocodiles at night, from a boat.

OUTLINE ITINERARY

  • Day 1: Evening tour start at Libreville airport. Transfer to hotel.
  • Day 2: Morning flight to Port Gentil, then drive to Loango National Park.
  • Days 3-8: Exploring Loango National Park.
  • Day 9: Loango, then return to Port Gentil. Early evening flight to Libreville for tour end.

To see a larger map, click on the square-like ‘enlarge’ icon in the upper right of the map box.

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PRICE INFORMATION

Gabon Birding Tour Prices: Prices in Gabon are very high, but there are reasons for this. Some accommodations in Gabon are surprisingly expensive (this is especially true at Loango), as is transport for tourism purposes. Prices are driven upwards by there being only a very limited infrastructure of hotels and lodges, and imported vehicles are very costly.

Birdquest Inclusions: Our tour prices include surface transportation, accommodations, meals and entrance fees.

We also include all tipping for local guides, drivers, boatmen and accommodation/restaurant staff.

We also include these flights: Libreville-Port Gentil-Libreville.

Deposit: 20% of the total tour price. Our office will let you know what deposit amount is due, in order to confirm your booking, following receipt of your online booking form.

TO BOOK THIS TOUR: Click here (you will need the tour dates)


Gorilla Tracking Permit at Loango: As of the time of writing, permits cost a remarkable $500 per person. The Gorilla Tracking Permit price is subject to change and is not included in the tour price. Please be sure to inform us on booking if you want a permit. The actual cost of the permit at the time (the cost is subject to change) will be included on your tour invoice. The additional deposit (due at the time of booking) if you would like a Gorilla tracking permit is $500 or equivalent. Permit fees are not refundable.

The single supplement will not apply if you indicate on booking that you prefer to share a room and there is a room-mate of the same sex available.

This tour is priced in US Dollars. Amounts shown in other currencies are indicative.

Air Travel To & From The Tour: Our in-house IATA ticket agency will be pleased to arrange your air travel on request, or you may arrange this yourself if you prefer.

GABON’S LOANGO NATIONAL PARK BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY

Gabon’s Loango: Day 1  Our tour begins this evening at Libreville, Gabon’s capital city on the Atlantic coast, where we will stay overnight.

Gabon’s Loango: Day 2  From Libreville we take a short morning flight south to Port Gentil, the gateway to the huge Loango National Park. Following the opening of a new, Chinese-built highway, getting to the park has become much easier and now takes little more than three hours. We will spend seven nights at Loango National Park and we will enjoy our first outing by boat or open safari vehicle this afternoon.

Gabon’s Loango: Days 3-8  Loango National Park has been rightly called ‘Africa’s Last Eden’, for here, in a vast 1550 square kilometres (almost 600 square miles) sanctuary, is a mosaic of lush rainforest, gallery woodlands, open, sandy savannas, huge lagoons, coastal scrub and pristine beaches. At certain times of year Forest Elephants, African Forest Buffalos and, rarely, even Hippopotamuses, Western Gorillas and Leopards have been seen venturing onto the white beaches or, even more rarely, enjoying the surf! Such moments have become a hallmark of the park, but these are sights that are most frequent at the height of the rainy seasons and not at the time of our visit.

The park was created in 1956, long before President Omar Bongo signed the 2002 decree creating 12 new national parks in the country and thus catapulted Gabon to the forefront of African conservation efforts. Just a few tiny villages exist in the park, leaving this wilderness virtually devoid of people. During our stay, we shall enjoy some unique bird and wildlife opportunities.

The ultimate highlight of the bird highlights at Loango, and indeed Gabon’s ‘Grailbird’, is the strange and little-known African River Martin. The last surviving member of its tribe (the White-eyed River Martin of Southeast Asia is now thought extinct), these strange creatures, which are almost prehistoric-looking, are currently placed in the swallow family and live mostly along hard-to-access stretches of the great River Congo. However, for part of each year, a section of the population migrate to coastal Gabon to nest in burrows in the sandy savannas. This decidedly odd-looking hirundine baffled Gustav Hartlaub, who first described the bird as a type of roller! Other taxonomists have placed it with the woodswallows or indeed even in its own family! There is definitely nothing else like it in this world of ours.

The river martins usually first arrive at Loango during August and by late November or early December their colonies are deserted and they return to the Congo. At times between late August and mid-September, numbers (in some years, thousands) roost at certain islands in the vast Iguela lagoon. This is the most reliable period at Loango at which to see the martins, although numbers vary from year to year. At first appearing as dots high in the sky, the numbers build up until the birds start elaborate displays when numbers are large, forming into smoke-like balls when numbers are large or plunging, twisting and turning streamers, in the manner of pre-roosting (‘murmuring’) European Starlings. Eventually, the birds descend to one of the islands. It is a sight one can never forget. After the roosting period (but not every year) the birds stay on and nest in some accessible areas in the Loango savannas (more rarely they nest far from the few roads), forming similar display patterns over the colonies or gathering on the ground to noisily court each other and dig their nesting burrows. Quite definitely seeing the African River Martins of Loango is one of Africa’s greatest of all birding experiences!

Another mega-speciality of Loango is the splendid Vermiculated Fish Owl, which is very reliably found here in the forested fringes of the many rivers. The marmalade-coloured Pel’s Fish Owl is also quite common here and we should also find one of these impressive owls during our stay.

Loango also has many other bird specialities. The restricted-range Rosy Bee-eater is positively numerous and we will surely enjoy fantastic views of this marvellous species. Forbes’s Plovers run across the short-grassed sandy wastes, whilst the restricted-range Loango Weaver can be found breeding along the waterways, often in areas with palms. The beautiful, restricted-range Violet-tailed Sunbird is another speciality of the rivers and lagoon margins.

The waterways are prime habitat for Hartlaub’s Duck, African Finfoot and there is even the possibility of encountering White-crested Tiger Heron. We also have a fair chance of encountering White-backed Night Heron, while at the mouth of the Iguela lagoon there should be a number of wintering Damara Terns from southwest Africa as well as the range-restricted West African Crested Tern

Additional major regional specialities at Loango include the superb Black-headed Bee-eater, Chattering Cisticola and Long-legged Pipit. There is also a fair chance for Black Guineafowl and, after dark, the large and little-known Bates’s Nightjar. The lovely Bare-cheeked Trogon is occasionally seen.

Other interesting, mostly Western African specialities we may well find here include the impressive Long-tailed Hawk, Red-necked Buzzard, Blue-headed Wood Dove (a bird with a bouncing ping-pong-ball-like call), Grey Parrot (Loango must have one of the largest remaining populations of the species; they are positively numerous!), Blue Malkoha, Great Blue and Yellow-billed Turacos, Sabine’s and Cassin’s Spinetails, the dazzling White-bellied and Shining-blue Kingfishers, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, the secretive Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, the huge and ‘prehistoric-looking’ Black-casqued Hornbill (common here), Red-billed Dwarf, African Pied, Piping and White-thighed Hornbills, the superb White-crested Hornbill with its long, flowing tail (which is regularly seen following troops of monkeys), Yellow-throated, Speckled and Red-rumped Tinkerbirds, White-bibbed (or White-throated Blue) and Red-breasted Swallows, Square-tailed Saw-wing, Spotted, Eastern Bearded, Red-tailed and Icterine Greenbuls, Swamp Palm Bulbul, Red-tailed Leaflove, Red-tailed and Yellow-lored Bristlebills, Swamp Boubou, Banded Prinia, Fraser’s Rufous Thrush, White-browed Forest Flycatcher, Cassin’s Flycatcher, Purple-headed Starling, Carmelite, Reichenbach’s, Mangrove, Blue-throated Brown, Olive-bellied, Tiny and Johanna’s Sunbirds, and Slender-billed Weaver. Latham’s Francolin, Congo Serpent Eagle and Thick-billed Cuckoo also occur at Loango, but tend to be hard to find.

More widespread species that are likely to be new here include Pink-backed Pelican, Striated, Squacco, Goliath, Purple and Grey Herons, Little, Intermediate and Great Egrets, African Spoonbill, Hadada Ibis, Woolly-necked and Yellow-billed Storks, Hamerkop, White-faced Whistling Duck, African Harrier-Hawk, Palm-nut Vulture, African Fish Eagle, Lizard Buzzard, Water Thick-knee, Senegal and White-crowned Lapwings, Kittlitz’s Plover, Common and Wood Sandpipers, Common Greenshank, Common and Little Terns, African Skimmer, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Red-chested, Diederik and Klaas’s Cuckoos, Blue-headed Coucal, Square-tailed Nightjar, African Palm and Little Swifts, Black Spinetail, Black and Blue-breasted Bee-eaters, Woodland, Malachite, Giant and Pied Kingfishers, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, Common Bulbul, Grey-rumped Swallow, Banded Martin, Winding, Zitting and Pectoral-patch Cisticolas, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, African Pied Wagtail, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Green-headed Sunbird, Yellow-mantled Widowbird and Quailfinch. The localized Black-rumped Buttonquail also occurs, but is uncommon.

The small Forest Elephant and the forest form of the African (or Cape) Buffalo, known as African Forest Buffalo, are both fairly easy to see here. Another feature of the area are the gatherings of Red River Hogs, so we will be keeping watch for a herd of these brightly coloured pigs with their tasselled ears.

We shall also be on the lookout for Red-capped (or White-collared) and Grey-cheeked Mangabeys, Putty-nosed and Moustached Monkeys, Hippopotamus and Western Sitatunga. Central African Slender-snouted Crocodiles are quite common in the more forested rivers, much more so than the larger Nile Crocodile. At night, large Franquet’s Epauletted Fruit Bats can be seen, often hanging from branches in the trees.

Those who wish to will be able to enjoy an extraordinary encounter with Western (or Western Lowland) Gorillas. We will travel by boat to the camp of the gorilla researchers and hike with them into the rainforest to where the gorillas have already been spotted that morning (anything from 10 minutes to an hour or more). The Western Gorillas, which are isolated from the eastern populations by a huge gap in the distribution, regularly climb high into rainforest trees in search of ripe fruits, and they are surprisingly nimble climbers. The habituated group of around 10 individuals that the researchers will take us to is dominated by Kayama, a huge ‘silverback’ male. In fact Western Gorilla mature males, from about 16-18 years of age, have pale brown fur on their nape and rump, with ‘silver’ restricted to the mid-back. There are also mature females and their offspring, plus immature males and females. As always with gorillas, an encounter with these extraordinary cousins of ours is both a privilege and an experience one can never forget.

Gabon’s Loango: Day 9  After a last morning at Loango, we will return to Port Gentil and take an early evening flight to Libreville, where the tour ends.

GABON'S LOANGO NATIONAL PARK TOUR REPORT 2022

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