9 / 14 July - 30 July / 6 August 2022

by Craig Robson

Sumatra is one of the most endemic-rich islands in Asia and the World as a whole – a destination high on the priority list of many birders. This was the first Birdquest tour there since the pandemic, and also one of our most successful ever, a remarkable achievement when considering what we have all just been through over the last few years. Although Sumatra has a reputation for being a ‘difficult’ birding destination, we recorded almost all of the endemics and near-endemics, with just a handful of misses, thanks to our network of excellent local guides and remarkably smooth-running logistics.

Some of the mouth-watering highlights amongst the 316 species recorded in 2022 included: Red-billed and Sumatran Partridges, Bronze-tailed Peacock- and Salvadori’s Pheasants, Salvadori’s Nightjar, Large, Sumatran and Sunda Frogmouths, ‘Mentawai’ Malkoha, Silvery Pigeon, Barusan Cuckoo-Dove, ‘Barusan’ and Sumatran Green Pigeons, Milky Stork, ‘Mentawai’ and ‘Simeulue’ Serpent Eagles, Sunda Owlet, Simeulue, Mentawai, and Rajah Scops Owls, Barred Eagle-Owl, ‘Sunda’ Wood Owl, Sumatran Trogon, ‘Simeulue’ and Sumatran Woodpeckers, Simeulue Parrot, Schneider’s, Malayan Banded and Graceful Pittas, Sumatran, ‘Mentawai’, ‘Mentawai Ashy’ and ‘Simeulue Ashy’ Drongos, Sumatran Treepie, Spot-necked, Cream-striped, Sumatran, ‘Barusan’, Aceh and Orange-spotted Bulbuls, Sangkar White-eye, Marbled and Rusty-breasted Wren-Babblers, Sumatran Babbler, Sumatran Laughingthrush, Sumatran Cochoa, Rufous-vented Niltava, ’Sumatran’ Shortwing, Sumatran Blue Robin, Shiny and Brown-winged Whistling Thrushes, Sumatran and Blue-masked Leafbirds, and ‘Sumatran’ Flowerpecker.

There were three parts to the tour in 2022: The Sumatran Ground Cuckoo Pre-Tour Extension, the Main Tour, and the Northern Sumatra Post-Tour Extension. The pre-tour extension began at Lampung Airport in south Sumatra, where the group gathered together before we headed off to the Way Titias area of Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park, in the south-west Sumatran uplands.

Sumatran Ground Cuckoo was obviously our primary target at Way Titias, and we had three days to try and find one. Being the first birding group to visit the area post-Covid was always going to be a bit of an issue, and a new camp had been set-up at the base of the hills, after the demise of the old camp. This did not stop us exploring far-afield however, as we searched high and low, up and over a series of heavily forested ridges with experienced local guide Kamel. Despite generally fine conditions, and a lot of focused effort, there was not a ‘peep’ from the ground cuckoo. It was a blow for sure, but it didn’t stop us from enjoying the many other good birds at this remote site. We logged over 100 species, and saw Ferruginous and Sumatran Partridges, Salvadori’s Pheasant, Sumatran Trogon, Graceful Pitta, Green Broadbill, Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Malayan Black Magpie, Cream-striped and Ruby-throated Bulbuls, Sangkar White-eye, Sunda Scimitar Babbler, Marbled and Eyebrowed Wren-Babblers, Spot-necked and Sumatran Babblers, Blue Nuthatch, Rufous-browed, White-tailed and Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatchers, Sunda and Chestnut-naped Forktails, and Brown-winged Whistling Thrush to name but a few. We kicked-off the mammal list with the superb Siamang, Agile Gibbon, and Sumatran Surili (Mitred Leaf Monkey).

We returned to Lampung, and then flew to Padang in west Sumatra via Jakarta (the easiest route!), where the main tour began on arrival, with a transfer to a nearby hotel.

The following morning, we were heading across the ocean by fast ferry to the island of Sipora in the Mentawai Islands. Based at a comfortable guest house in Tua Pejat, we teamed-up with local guides and explored accessible remaining forest to the south, over two full days. Sipora proved to be very birdy, and we found all of the endemics and regional endemics without any difficulty: Barusan Cuckoo-Dove, ‘Barusan’ Green Pigeon, ‘Mentawai’ Malkoha, ‘Mentawai’ Serpent Eagle, Mentawai Scops Owl, ‘Mentawai’ and ‘Mentawai Ashy’ Drongos, and ‘Barusan’ Bulbul. We also had our best views of Sunda Frogmouth here, and a pair of Hill Mynas were noteworthy. Kloss Gibbon and Pig-tailed Langur were tantalizing heard-only endemics – we had to make do with a Golden-bellied Treeshrew and several Mentawai Squirrels!

Back on the mainland we met Dwi and his team, who escorted us down to Gunung Kerinci after another night at the hotel in Padang. One of the most famous birding destinations in Indonesia, Kerinci has some of the most sought-after endemics, and we were looking forward to getting straight into the forest after the fairly long drive there, as well as being fuelled with anticipation for the three full days we had at our disposal. Birding the trail up the mountain has received a fair amount of bad press in the past. Maybe we were fortunate with the weather this year, but the conditions really didn’t seem that difficult and the birds largely showed themselves readily. Top of the list were Schneider’s Pitta, Sumatran Cochoa, and Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant, and we had great views of all three. We also all enjoyed good looks at Red-billed Partridge, Sumatran Green Pigeon, Salvadori’s Nightjar, day-roosting Sumatran Frogmouth and vandewateri Mountain Scops Owl, Sunda Owlet, Barred Eagle- and ‘Sunda’ Wood Owls, Sumatran Trogon, Black-browed Barbet, Sunda Minivet, Sunda Warbler, Black-capped White-eye, Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler, Spot-necked Babbler, Blue Nuthatch, Indigo and Pygmy Flycatchers, Rufous-vented Niltava, Sumatran Blue Robin, ‘Sumatran’ Shortwing, Shiny and Brown-winged Whistling Thrushes, and ‘Sumatran’ Flowerpecker; while Salvadori’s Pheasant was seen again.

From Kerinci we moved south again and spent three days exploring the Tapan Road. Excellent forest is still to be found along the road for many, many kilometres, and the birding was very worthwhile, though unscrupulous bird-trappers have had an impact on certain species like laughingthrushes and leafbirds. The highlights this year included Rhinoceros and Bushy-crested Hornbills, Sumatran and Orange-breasted Trogons, Graceful Pitta, Sumatran Treepie, Black-and-crimson Oriole, Grey-bellied, Scaly-breasted, Cream-striped, Spot-necked, Orange-spotted, Cinereous and Sumatran Bulbuls, Sangkar White-eye, Sunda Forktail, and the smart Blue-masked Leafbird. Another Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant was seen.

From the Tapan Road we had a fairly long drive to Padang Airport and then took a flight to Jakarta, where we overnighted. Flying back to Lampung the following morning, we continued by road to Way Kambas National Park. The national park has unfortunately still not re-opened since the pandemic, so all of our birding had to be done around the accessible edge of the reserve and included a boat trip along the riverine north-western boundary of the park. Despite the upset of not being allowed inside this unique reserve, we still managed to find some very good birds, with Little Green Pigeon, Large Frogmouth, Diard’s Trogon, Black-bellied Malkoha, Red-legged Crake, Banded and Cerulean Kingfishers, Sunda Scops, Barred Eagle-, and Buffy Fish Owls, Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagles, two unexpected Milky Storks, Lesser Adjutant, Black-thighed Falconet, Banded Woodpecker, Red-crowned Barbet, Malayan Banded and Hooded Pittas, Sumatran Babbler, Malaysian Blue Flycatcher, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker, and Thick-billed Spiderhunter amongst the highlights.

From Way Kambas we backtracked to Lampung Airport, where the Main Tour ended, before flying to Medan via Jakarta, where we overnighted at a very comfortable hotel downtown. The next morning, we were back at Medan Airport for the Northern Sumatra Post-Tour Extension, which began with us catching a flight to Meulaboh on the north-west coast of Sumatra, in Aceh Province. We met our local guide Agus and checked-in to our comfortable hotel.

With Agus at the helm, we had an afternoon session and but two full days to try and secure all of the specialty birds of the area, as we explored a road which traverses the forested mountains of Gunung Leuser National Park. Our first day was a good one, with Aceh Bulbul, our first looks at the tricky Sumatran Laughingthrush, a superb Sumatran Woodpecker and the now rare and localized Sumatran Leafbird all in the bag. Roll’s Partridge and ‘Sumatran’ Mesia had narrowly avoided being seen and were heard-only’s, so we were looking forward to our second full day. The second day started very well, with superb close-up views of a Rajah Scops Owl predawn. Unfortunately, however, things then got much, much worse. It began to rain, the rain got heavier, and it did not stop for the entire day. Finding birds was impossible, and our birding in Aceh was quickly terminated. Other good birds before the rain got us were Sumatran and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, Red-bearded Bee-eater, Sumatran Trogon, Dusky Broadbill, Common Green Magpie, Sumatran Treepie, Long-tailed Sibia, Sunda, Chestnut-capped and Black Laughingthrushes, Rufous-vented Niltava, and Blue-masked Leafbird. Mammals included Thomas’s Langur and Lar Gibbon.

We flew back to Medan for another overnight stay, before embarking on the final leg of our tour by flying to Simeulue, at the northern end of the west Sumatran (Barusan) Islands chain. Our base this time was a small surf camp, and our host ferried us around a number of forested locations in the south and east of the island, where we soon succeeded in locating all of the endemics. Great views were had of Silvery Pigeon, the diminutive but rather angry Simeulue Scops Owl, ‘Simeulue’ Serpent Eagle, Simeulue Parrot, ‘Simeulue’ Woodpecker, and ‘Simeulue’ Ashy Drongo. Barusan Cuckoo-Dove, Great Eared Nightjar, Rufous-backed (or Oriental Dwarf) Kingfisher, Fiery Minivet, and Mangrove Whistler were also seen.

Our Sumatran birding adventure drew to a close, as we returned by air to Medan, and onwards to Jakarta for our international flight connections.




Lesser Whistling Duck  Dendrocygna javanica   Small numbers at Way Kambas.

Ferruginous Partridge ◊  Caloperdix oculeus   One briefly and several heard at Way Titias (ocellatus).

Red-billed Partridge ◊  Arborophila rubrirostris   Endemic. Two seen quite well at Gunung Kerinci; others heard.

Roll’s Partridge ◊  Arborophila rubrirostris   Endemic. Heard only. Lost our chance to heavy rain at Gunung Leuser.

Sumatran Partridge ◊  Arborophila sumatrana   Endemic. Four seen at Way Titias, and others heard.

Salvadori’s Pheasant ◊  Lophura inornata   Endemic. Males at Way Titias & G. Kerinci. Bernard flushed one at G. Leuser.

Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant ◊  Polyplectron chalcurum   Endemic. Male at G. Kerinci & one briefly Tapan Rd.

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus bankiva

Malaysian Eared Nightjar ◊  Lyncornis temminckii   Heard only. Way Titias campsite and Way Kambas.

Great Eared Nightjar  Lyncornis macrotis   Two heard and seen on Simeulue (jacobsoni).

Large-tailed Nightjar  Caprimulgus macrurus bimaculatus

Savanna Nightjar  Caprimulgus affinis affinis

Salvadori’s Nightjar ◊  Caprimulgus pulchellus   Great views perched at Gunung Kerinci.

Large Frogmouth ◊  Batrachostomus auritus   Brilliant views of one at Way Kambas NP.

Sumatran Frogmouth ◊  Batrachostomus poliolophus   Endemic. Fantastic day-roosting bird at Kerinci.

Sunda Frogmouth ◊  Batrachostomus cornutus   1 seen Sipora; 1 fleetingly Way Titias; heard Way Kambas (nominate).

Grey-rumped Treeswift  Hemiprocne longipennis   Two forms seen: widespread harterti, and perlonga on Simeulue.

Whiskered Treeswift  Hemiprocne comata   Several lower down along the Tapan Road.

Plume-toed Swiftlet  Collocalia affinis   Common. Mostly cyanoptila, but oberholseri on Sipora.

Edible Nest Swiftlet  Aerodramus fuciphagus vestitus

Greater Coucal  Centropus sinensis bubutus

Lesser Coucal  Centropus bengalensis javanensis

Raffles’s Malkoha  Rhinortha chlorophaea   A few at Way Kambas.; heard at Way Titias.

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha  Phaenicophaeus curvirostris   Two at Way Kambas (singularis).

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha ◊ (Mentawai M)  Phaenicophaeus [curvirostris] oeneicaudus   Endemic. Flocks of 5 & 6 Sipora.

Black-bellied Malkoha  Phaenicophaeus diardi   A few seen at Way Kambas (nominate).

Green-billed Malkoha  Phaenicophaeus tristis tristis

Violet Cuckoo  Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus   Widespread. Seen Tapan Rd and Simeulue (nominate).

Banded Bay Cuckoo  Cacomantis sonneratii fasciolatus

Plaintive Cuckoo  Cacomantis merulinus threnodes

Rusty-breasted Cuckoo  Cacomantis sepulcralis sepulcralis

Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo  Surniculus lugubris brachyurus

Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) (introduced)  Columba livia

Silvery Pigeon ◊  Columba argentina   Endemic. Three seen at two sites. Nice views of this rare Columbid.

Spotted Dove  Spilopelia chinensis tigrina

Barred Cuckoo-Dove  Macropygia unchall unchall

Barusan Cuckoo-Dove ◊  Macropygia modiglianii   Endemic. Easily seen Sipora (elassa) and Simeulue (hypopercna).

Little Cuckoo-Dove  Macropygia ruficeps sumatrana

Common Emerald Dove  Chalcophaps indica indica

Zebra Dove  Geopelia striata striata

Little Green Pigeon ◊  Treron olax   A few seen nicely at Way Kambas.

Pink-necked Green Pigeon  Treron vernans   A few at Way Kambas and a pair seen well.

Thick-billed Green Pigeon ◊ (Barusan G P)  T. [c.] hypothapsinus   Endemic. 15-20 Sipora (smicrus), 2 Simeulue (haliplous).

Sumatran Green Pigeon ◊  Treron oxyurus   Frequent good views Kerinci and Tapan Road; heard at G. Leuser.

Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon  Treron sphenurus   A pair at Gunung Leuser (etorques).

Green Imperial Pigeon  Ducula aenea   Common on Sipora and Simeulue (consobrina).

Mountain Imperial Pigeon  Ducula badia badia

Pied Imperial Pigeon  Ducula bicolor   Reasonable numbers on the islands but only occasional.

Red-legged Crake  Rallina fasciata   Heard at Way Kambas, with 1 spotlighted close-to; heard on Sipora & Simeulue.

White-browed Crake  Poliolimnas cinereus   Ricefields and marshes at Way Kambas.

White-breasted Waterhen  Amaurornis phoenicurus phoenicurus

Barred Buttonquail  Turnix suscitator   Several seen Way Titias and Way Kambas (nominate).

Greater Painted-snipe  Rostratula benghalensis   A booming female at Way Kambas, with one or two others heard.

Greater Crested Tern  Thalasseus bergii   One en route to Sipora

Lesser Crested Tern  Thalasseus bengalensis   Non-leader. Three en route to Sipora (nominate).

Little Tern  Sternula albifrons   One on Simeulue (sinensis).

Bridled Tern  Onychoprion anaethetus anaethetus   One on the way back from Sipora

Black-naped Tern  Sterna sumatrana   Three en route to Sipora (nominate).

Common Tern  Sterna hirundo   Several en route to Sipora (longipennis).

Milky Stork ◊  Mycteria cinerea   Two along the boundary of Way Kambas NP were a big surprise.

Lesser Adjutant  Leptoptilos javanicus   15 at Way Kambas.

Brown Booby  Sula leucogaster   Non-leader. One was seen during the return boat trip from Sipora (plotus).

Oriental Darter  Anhinga melanogaster   One at Way Kambas NP.

Cinnamon Bittern  Ixobrychus cinnamomeus

Black-crowned Night Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax

Striated Heron  Butorides striata javanica

Javan Pond Heron  Ardeola speciosa

Eastern Cattle Egret  Bubulcus coromandus

Grey Heron  Ardea cinerea jouyi  Non-leader.

Purple Heron  Ardea purpurea manilensis

Great Egret  Ardea alba modesta

Intermediate Egret  Ardea intermedia intermedia

Little Egret  Egretta garzetta

Pacific Reef Heron  Egretta sacra   Non-leader. Sharp-eyed Bernard reported a dark morph bird on Simeulue (nominate).

Black-winged Kite  Elanus caeruleus hypoleucus

Crested Honey Buzzard  Pernis ptilorhynchus torquatus

Crested Serpent Eagle  Spilornis cheela    One seen at Way Titias; heard at Kerinci (batu).

Crested Serpent Eagle ◊ (Mentawai S E)  Spilornis [cheela] sipora   Easily seen, with four noted.

Crested Serpent Eagle ◊ (Simeulue S E)  Spilornis [cheela] abbotti   One seen very well and another heard.

Changeable Hawk-Eagle  Nisaetus cirrhatus limnaeetus

Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle  Nisaetus alboniger

Black Eagle  Ictinaetus malaiensis malaiensis

Brahminy Kite  Haliastur indus intermedius

White-bellied Sea Eagle  Haliaeetus leucogaster

Lesser Fish Eagle  Haliaeetus humilis   Excellent views along the river at Way Kambas (nominate).

Grey-headed Fish Eagle  Haliaeetus ichthyaetus   Along the NW boundary river at Way Kambas NP.

Oriental Bay Owl ◊  Phodilus badius   Heard only. One at Way Kambas (nominate).

Brown Boobook  Ninox scutulata   One spotlighted from the boat at Way Kambas (nominate).

Sunda Owlet ◊  Taenioptynx sylvaticus   Two seen well at Gunung Kerinci; heard in the north.

Reddish Scops Owl ◊  Otus rufescens   Heard-only. Out of reach at Way Kambas (nominate).

Mountain Scops Owl  Otus spilocephalus   A fantastic day-roosting bird at Kerinci (vandewateri).

Simeulue Scops Owl ◊  Otus umbra   Endemic. One seen and another heard on Simeulue.

Mentawai Scops Owl ◊  Otus mentawi   Endemic. Three seen and five heard on Sipora.

Rajah Scops Owl  ◊  Otus brookii   Endemic. Brilliant views of one at a nest hole at Gunung Kerinci. Superb! (solokensis).

Sunda Scops Owl  Otus lempiji   One at day roost and two seen at night at Way Kambas (nominate).

Barred Eagle-Owl ◊  Bubo sumatranus   Seen in daylight at Gunung Kerinci and at night at Way Kambas (nominate).

Buffy Fish Owl ◊  Ketupa ketupu   Great views of one at Way Kambas during our boat trip (nominate).

Brown Wood Owl ◊ (Sunda W O)  Strix leptogrammica   Dwi found us one at Kerinci (myrtha).

Sumatran Trogon ◊  Apalharpactes mackloti   Endemic. Widespread in montane areas, with over 20 individuals logged.

Diard’s Trogon  Harpactes diardii   A pair showed well at Way Kambas (nominate).

Orange-breasted Trogon  Harpactes oreskios   Seen at Way Titias and the Tapan Road (uniformis).

Red-headed Trogon  Harpactes erythrocephalus   Several along the Tapan Road (flagrans).

White-crowned Hornbill ◊  Berenicornis comatus   Heard-only. A couple of time at Way Titias, but just too distant.

Rhinoceros Hornbill  Buceros rhinoceros   Three seen along Tapan Rd; heard at Way Titias (nominate).

Helmeted Hornbill ◊  Rhinoplax vigil   Heard-only. Once at Way Titias.

Oriental Pied Hornbill  Anthracoceros albirostris convexus

Bushy-crested Hornbill  Anorrhinus galeritus

Wreathed Hornbill  Rhyticeros undulatus  

Oriental Dollarbird   Eurystomus orientalis orientalis

Rufous-collared Kingfisher ◊  Actenoides concretus   Heard-only. Sipora, Tapan Road, and Way Kambas NP (nominate).

Banded Kingfisher  Lacedo pulchella   Roosting male seen Way Kambas; others heard there and Way Titias (nominate).

Stork-billed Kingfisher  Pelargopsis capensis   A few seen Way Kambas (cyanopteryx), and also Simeulue (simalurensis).

White-throated Kingfisher  Halcyon smyrnensis   Occasional (perpulchra).

Collared Kingfisher  Todiramphus chloris   Two forms: laubmannianus on the mainland and chloropterus on the islands.

Cerulean Kingfisher ◊ (Small Blue K)  Alcedo coerulescens   This little gem was best seen at Way Kambas NP.

Blue-eared Kingfisher  Alcedo meninting meninting

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher (Rufous-backed K) Ceyx [erithaca] rufidorsa  Two seen on Simeulue motleyi).

Red-bearded Bee-Eater  Nyctyornis amictus   A couple en route from Way Titias, and another at Gunung Leuser

Blue-throated Bee-eater  Merops viridis

Fire-tufted Barbet ◊  Psilopogon pyrolophus   A few seen at Gunung Kerinci, and common along the Tapan Road.

Golden-whiskered Barbet  Psilopogon chrysopogon   Often heard. Excavating a nest-hole along the Tapan Rd (nominate).

Red-crowned Barbet ◊  Psilopogon rafflesii   One seen and several heard Way Kambas. Extreme lowland forest specialist.

Red-throated Barbet  Psilopogon mystacophanos mystacophanos

Black-browed Barbet ◊  Psilopogon oorti   Common in the uplands.

Blue-eared Barbet  Psilopogon duvaucelii

Sooty Barbet ◊  Caloramphus hayii

Grey-and-buff Woodpecker  Hemicircus concretus sordidus

Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker  Yungipicus canicapillus volzi

Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker  Yungipicus moluccensis moluccensis

White-bellied Woodpecker ◊ (Simeulue W)  Dryocopus [javensis] parvus   Endemic. Nine logged on Simeulue.

Banded Woodpecker ◊  Chrysophlegma miniaceum   Great views of a pair at Way Kambas (malaccense).

Greater Yellownape  Chrysophlegma flavinucha   Widespread: korinchi from G. Kerinci southwards, mystacale in north.

Lesser Yellownape  Picus chlorolophus   One at Gunung Leuser (vanheysti).

Crimson-winged Woodpecker  Picus puniceus   Two at Way Kambas (observandus).

Sumatran Woodpecker ◊  Picus dedemi   Endemic. Superb male seen well at Gunung Leuser.

Maroon Woodpecker  Blythipicus rubiginosus   

Orange-backed Woodpecker  Reinwardtipicus validus xanthopygius

Rufous Woodpecker  Micropternus brachyurus badius

Buff-rumped Woodpecker  Meiglyptes tristis grammithorax

Buff-necked Woodpecker  Meiglyptes tukki tukki

Black-thighed Falconet  Microhierax fringillarius   Nice pair at Way Kambas.

Blue-rumped Parrot  Psittinus cyanurus   Frequent on Sipora, two at Way Kambas (nominate).

Simeulue Parrot ◊  Psittinus abbotti   Endemic. 16 logged on Simeulue, and seen very well.

Red-breasted Parakeet  Psittacula alexandri   Just two on Simeulue (cala).

Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot  Loriculus galgulus

Long-tailed Broadbill  Psarisomus dalhousiae   Seen well along the Tapan Road (psittacinus).

Dusky Broadbill  Corydon sumatranus   Two at Gunung Leuser (nominate).

Black-and-red Broadbill  Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos macrorhynchos

Banded Broadbill  Eurylaimus javanicus harterti

Black-and-yellow Broadbill  Eurylaimus ochromalus

Green Broadbill  Calyptomena viridis   Several of these crackers seen at Way Titias (gloriosa).

Schneider’s Pitta ◊  Hydrornis schneideri   Endemic. A tame pair and a juvenile seen very well at Gunung Kerinci.

Malayan Banded Pitta ◊  Hydrornis irena   Two males seen and several birds heard at Way Kambas.

Graceful Pitta ◊  Erythropitta venusta   Endemic. Excellent views at Way Titias and along the Tapan Rd.

Hooded Pitta  Pitta sordida   Two seen and several heard at Way Kambas NP (mulleri).

Golden-bellied Gerygone (Flyeater)  Gerygone sulphurea sulphurea

Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike  Hemipus picatus intermedius

Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike  Hemipus hirundinaceus

Maroon-breasted Philentoma  Philentoma velata   Common at Way Titias (coesia).

White-breasted Woodswallow  Artamus leucorynchus amydrus

Common Iora  Aegithina tiphia horizoptera

Green Iora  Aegithina viridissima viridissima

Fiery Minivet  Pericrocotus igneus   At least one was identified on Simeulue (trophis).

Grey-chinned Minivet  Pericrocotus solaris   Widespread in the uplands (montanus).

Sunda Minivet ◊  Pericrocotus miniatus   Frequent along the Tapan Road.

Scarlet Minivet  Pericrocotus speciosus xanthogaster

Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike (Roving C)  Coracina [striata] sumatrensis   4 Sipora (sumatrensis), 3 Simeulue (simalurensis).

Sunda Cuckooshrike ◊  Coracina larvata   Several seen Tapan Road and Gunung Leuser (melanocephala).

Pied Triller  Lalage nigra   Quite common at Way Kambas (striga).

Lesser Cuckooshrike  Coracina fimbriata   One seen Way Titias (schierbrandi); not uncommon Simeulue (compta).

Mangrove Whistler  Pachycephala cinerea cinerea

Long-tailed Shrike  Lanius schach bentet

Blyth’s Shrike-babbler  Pteruthius aeralatus   Widespread in the uplands (cameranoi).

Black-and-crimson Oriole ◊  Oriolus cruentus   As the previous species (consanguineus).

Dark-throated Oriole   Oriolus xanthonotus   Heard at Way Titias (nominate), and four on Sipora (mentawi).

Black-naped Oriole  Oriolus chinensis   Seen on Sipora (sipora), at Way Kambas (maculatus), and on Simeulue (mundus).

Bronzed Drongo  Dicrurus aeneus malayensis

Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo  Dicrurus remifer remifer

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo  Dicrurus paradiseus platurus

Sumatran Drongo ◊  Dicrurus sumatranus   Endemic. Small numbers Tapan Road, then common Gunung Leuser.

Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (Mentawai D)  Dicrurus [hottentottus] viridinitens   Endemic. Common enough on Sipora.

Ashy Drongo  Dicrurus leucophaeus   Southern/central uplands (phaedrus), and northern uplands (batakensis).

Ashy Drongo ◊ (Mentawai A D)  Dicrurus [leucophaeus] periophthalmicus   Endemic. Not uncommon on Sipora.

Ashy Drongo ◊ (Simeulue A D)  Dicrurus [leucophaeus] celaenus   Endemic. Small numbers on Simeulue.

White-throated Fantail  Rhipidura albicollis atrata

Malaysian Pied Fantail  Rhipidura javanica longicauda

Spotted Fantail  Rhipidura perlata   Quite common at Way Titias.

Black-naped Monarch  Hypothymis azurea   We saw prophata on Sipora, and consobrina on Simeulue.

Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher  Terpsiphone affinis affinis

Crested Jayshrike  Platylophus galericulatus coronatus  Heard-only. Way Titias.

Malayan Black Magpie  Platysmurus leucopterus   A few at Way Titias.

Common Green Magpie  Cissa chinensis   Singles at Tapan Road and Gunung Leuser (minor).

Sumatran Treepie ◊  Dendrocitta occipitalis   Endemic. Common Tapan Road and G. Leuser, with many great views.

Slender-billed Crow  Corvus enca compilator

Rail-babbler ◊  Eupetes macrocerus   Heard-only. Once at Way Titias, too distantly.

Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher  Culicicapa ceylonensis antioxantha

Cinereous Tit  Parus cinereus ambiguus

Hairy-backed Bulbul  Tricholestes criniger sericeus

Ochraceous Bulbul  Alophoixus ochraceus   Frequent in upland areas (sumatranus).

Spot-necked Bulbul ◊  Alcurus tympanistrigus   Endemic. Common along the Tapan Road, with over 30 logged.

Buff-vented Bulbul  Iole crypta   Frequent at Way Titias; heard at Tapan Road (nominate).

Cream-striped Bulbul ◊  Hemixos leucogrammicus   Endemic. Common along Tapan Rd (30+). Also at Way Titias.

Cinereous Bulbul ◊  Hemixos cinereus   A few seen well lower down on the Tapan Road (nominate).

Sumatran Bulbul ◊  Ixos sumatranus   Endemic. Just a couple along the Tapan Rd, then frequent at Gunung Leuser.

Streaked Bulbul  Ixos malaccensis

Black-headed Bulbul  Brachypodius melanocephalos   Widespread: melanocephalos on mainland, hyperemnus Simeulue.

Grey-bellied Bulbul  Ixodia cyaniventris   Small numbers along the Tapan Road (nominate).

Scaly-breasted Bulbul  Ixodia squamata   As the previous species (webberi).

Ruby-throated Bulbul ◊  Rubigula dispar   Great views of several smart individuals at Way Titias.

Cream-vented Bulbul  Pycnonotus simplex simplex

Olive-winged Bulbul  Pycnonotus plumosus   A few seen well at Way Kambas (nominate).

Olive-winged Bulbul ◊ (Barusan B)  Pycnonotus [plumosus] porphyreus   Endemic. Common on Sipora.

Asian Red-eyed Bulbul  Pycnonotus brunneus brunneus

Aceh Bulbul ◊  Pycnonotus snouckaerti   Endemic. We worked hard to get good scope views of a pair at Gunung Leuser.

Orange-spotted Bulbul ◊  Pycnonotus bimaculatus   Pair seen twice at Tapan Road (nominate).

Yellow-vented Bulbul  Pycnonotus goiavier analis

Sooty-headed Bulbul  Pycnonotus aurigaster aurigaster

Pacific Swallow  Hirundo tahitica javanica

Barn Swallow  Hirundo rustica

Pygmy Cupwing  Pnoepyga pusilla   Regular in the higher uplands (lepida).

Yellow-bellied Warbler  Abroscopus superciliaris papilio

Mountain Tailorbird  Phyllergates cucullatus cucullatus

Sunda Bush Warbler (Mountain B W)  Horornis vulcanius   Frequent at G. Kerinci (flaviventris), and G. Leuser (sepiarius).

Chestnut-crowned Warbler  Phylloscopus castaniceps muelleri

Sunda Warbler ◊  Phylloscopus grammiceps sumatrensis

Mountain Leaf Warbler  Phylloscopus trivirgatus flaviventris

Hill Prinia  Prinia superciliaris   Frequent along Tapan Road, and also at G. Leuser (dysancrita).

Yellow-bellied Prinia  Prinia flaviventris rafflesi

Dark-necked Tailorbird  Orthotomus atrogularis   Heard-only.  Way Titias (nominate).

Rufous-tailed Tailorbird  Orthotomus sericeus hesperius

Ashy Tailorbird  Orthotomus ruficeps   Common: widespread cineraceus, and concinnus on Sipora.

Black-capped White-Eye ◊  Zosterops atricapilla   Higher uplands: nominate in centre/south, and viridicatus in north.

Warbling White-Eye  Zosterops japonicus montanus

Sangkar White-Eye ◊  Zosterops melanurus   Way Titias and Tapan Road at least (buxtoni).

Pin-striped Tit-Babbler  Macronus gularis gularis

Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler  Macronus ptilosus   One at Way Titias (trichorrhos).

Golden Babbler  Cyanoderma chrysaeum frigidum.

Chestnut-winged Babbler  Cyanoderma erythropterum   A pair at Way Kambas (pyrrhophaea).

Rufous-fronted Babbler  Cyanoderma rufifrons   Heard-only. Way Titias (poliogaster).

Black Laughingthrush ◊  Melanocichla lugubris   Seen well at Gunung Leuser.

Sunda Scimitar Babbler ◊  Pomatorhinus bornensis   Not uncommon at Way Titias (occidentalis).

Grey-throated Babbler  Stachyris nigriceps larvata

Spot-necked Babbler  Stachyris strialata   Frequent in central and southern uplands (nominate).

Marbled Wren-Babbler  Turdinus marmoratus   Seen very well at Way Titias, and others heard (nominate).

Scaly-crowned Babbler  Malacopteron cinereum cinereum

Malayan Black-capped Babbler  Pellorneum nigrocapitatum  Small numbers at Way Titias and Way Kambas.

Short-tailed Babbler  Malacocincla malaccensis   Two at Way Titias (nominate).

Sumatran Babbler ◊ (Buettikofer’s B)  Pellorneum buettikoferi   Endemic. Fairly common Way Titias and Way Kambas.

Abbott’s Babbler  Malacocincla abbotti   A few singing at Way Kambas; a surprising write-in (olivacea).

Horsfield’s Babbler  Malacocincla sepiaria barussana

Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler ◊  Gypsophila rufipectus   Endemic. Common at Gunung Kerinci.

Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler  Napothera epilepidota   Great views at Way Titias, and others heard (diluta).

Sumatran Wren-Babbler ◊  Napothera albostriata   Heard-only. Endemic. At least 3 at G. Kerinci but elusive.

Brown Fulvetta  Alcippe brunneicauda brunneicauda

Long-tailed Sibia  Heterophasia picaoides   Small number at Gunung Leuser (simillima).

Silver-eared Mesia ◊ (Sumatran M)  Leiothrix [argentauris] rookmakeri  Heard-only. Endemic. Heard once but slipped away.

Sunda Laughingthrush ◊ (Grey-and-brown L)  Garrulax palliatus   Good sightings at Gunung Leuser (nominate).

Sumatran Laughingthrush ◊  Garrulax bicolor   Endemic. Three at Gunung Leuser, and others heard. Very shy.

Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush ◊  Pterorhinus mitratus   Common at Gunung Leuser (nominate).

Asian Fairy-Bluebird  Irena puella crinigera

Blue Nuthatch ◊  Sitta azurea   Widespread in the uplands (expectata).

Asian Glossy Starling  Aplonis panayensis   On the mainland and Sipora we saw strigata, on Simeulue altirostris.

Common Hill Myna  Gracula religiosa   Heard Way Titias, 3 Way Kambas (nominate). Pair of non-leader batuensis Sipora.

Javan Myna (introduced)  Acridotheres javanicus

Sumatran Cochoa ◊  Cochoa beccarii   Endemic. Prolonged views of a male in the usual area at Gunung Kerinci.

Oriental Magpie-Robin  Copsychus saularis musicus

White-tailed Flycatcher  Cyornis concretus   Small numbers seen at Way Titias (nominate).

Rufous-browed Flycatcher  Anthipes solitaris solitaris

Pale Blue Flycatcher  Cyornis unicolor   Heard-only. Way Titias (harterti).

Malaysian Blue Flycatcher ◊  Cyornis turcosus   Excellent views of a pairs at Way Kambas (rupatensis).

Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher ◊  Cyornis olivaceus   Seen well at Way Titias and Tapan Road (nominate).

Rufous-vented Niltava ◊ (Sumatran N)  Niltava sumatrana   A pair at Gunung Kerinci and a female at Gunung Leuser.

Large Niltava  Niltava grandis   A few in the mountains (decipiens).

Verditer Flycatcher  Eumyias thalassinus thalassoides

Indigo Flycatcher ◊  Eumyias indigo   Frequently recorded in the uplands throughout (ruficrissa).

Lesser Shortwing  Brachypteryx leucophris   Common and often confiding at Gunung Kerinci (nominate).

White-browed Shortwing ◊ (Sumatran S)  B. [montana] saturata  Endemic. Many heard, 1 seen G. Kerinci; heard G. Leuser.

Sumatran Blue Robin ◊  Myiomela sumatrana   Endemic. Elusive, but a nice male seen well at Gunung Kerinci.

Sunda Forktail ◊  (Lesser F)  Enicurus velatus   Small numbers Way Titias and Tapan Road (sumatranus).

Chestnut-naped Forktail ◊  Enicurus ruficapillus   Brilliant views of a smart individual by the camp at Way Titias.

Shiny Whistling Thrush ◊  Myophonus melanurus   Endemic. Fairly common with small numbers daily at Gunung Kerinci.

Brown-winged Whistling Thrush ◊ (Sumatran W T)  Myophonus castaneus   Endemic. Widespread in uplands in small nos.

Blue Whistling Thrush  Myophonus caeruleus   Several along the Tapan Rd (dichrorhynchus).

Pygmy Flycatcher  Ficedula hodgsoni   A male seen well at Gunung Kerinci, and another heard (sumatrana).

Little Pied Flycatcher  Ficedula westermanni westermanni

Snowy-browed Flycatcher  Ficedula hyperythra   Common and confiding G. Kerinci; heard G. Leuser (sumatrana).

Lesser Green Leafbird  Chloropsis cyanopogon   A pair along the Tapan Rd.

Blue-winged Leafbird  Chloropsis moluccensis   A small group along the Tapan Rd (moluccensis).

Sumatran Leafbird ◊  Chloropsis media   Endemic. Greatly impacted by trapping. A nice male at Gunung Leuser.

Blue-masked Leafbird ◊  Chloropsis venusta   Endemic. A pair at the Tapan Road, and four at Gunung Leuser.

Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker  Prionochilus percussus   Three at Way Titias (ignicapilla).

Thick-billed Flowerpecker  Dicaeum agile   At least one along the Tapan Road (atjehense).

Orange-bellied Flowerpecker  Dicaeum trigonostigma  On mainland  and Sipora (trigonostigma); Simeulue (antioproctum).

Plain Flowerpecker  Dicaeum minullum   Several en route to Way Titias (borneanum).

Fire-breasted Flowerpecker ◊ (Sumatran F)  D. [ignipectus] beccarii   Endemic. A few G. Kerinci, Tapan Rd, G. Leuser.

Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker  Dicaeum cruentatum   Small numbers on Sipora and Simeulue (sumatranum).

Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker ◊  Dicaeum trochileum   Three seen well at Way Kambas.

Plain Sunbird  Anthreptes simplex

Brown-throated Sunbird  Anthreptes malacensis malacensis

Van Hasselt’s Sunbird  Leptocoma brasiliana brasiliana

Olive-backed Sunbird (Ornate S)  Cinnyris [jugularis] ornatus

Crimson Sunbird  Aethopyga siparaja siparaja  

Temminck’s Sunbird  Aethopyga temminckii   Common in the uplands.

Purple-naped Sunbird  Kurochkinegramma hypogrammicum hypogrammicum

Little Spiderhunter  Arachnothera longirostra cinereicollis

Thick-billed Spiderhunter  Arachnothera crassirostris   One in the lodge garden at Way Kambas.

Spectacled Spiderhunter  Arachnothera flavigaster   A few in the lowlands.

Yellow-eared Spiderhunter  Arachnothera chrysogenys   One on Sipora (nominate).

Grey-breasted Spiderhunter  Arachnothera modesta concolor

Eurasian Tree Sparrow  Passer montanus malaccensis

Scaly-breasted Munia  Lonchura punctulata fretensis

White-rumped Munia  Lonchura striata subsquamicollis

Javan Munia  Lonchura leucogastroides   Non-leader.

White-headed Munia  Lonchura maja   Widespread sightings of good numbers.

Grey Wagtail  Motacilla cinerea cinerea

Paddyfield Pipit  Anthus rufulus malayensis



Southern Red Muntjac (Red M, Common Barking Deer)  Muntiacus muntjak   Heard-only. At Way Kambas.

Common Minke Whale  Balaenoptera acutorostrata   Non-leader. One was seen on the way back from Sipora.

Spinner Dolphin  Stenella longirostris   Many seen on the way back from Sipora.

Large Flying-fox  Pteropus vampyrus   Seen at a number of locations while traveling.

Golden-bellied Treeshrew  Tupaia chrysogaster   Endemic. One on Sipora; a Mentawai endemic.

Javan Treeshrew (Horsfield’s T)  Tupaia horsfieldi    Small numbers at Way Titias, Kerinci, and Tapan Rd.

Greater Slow Loris (Sunda S L)  Nycticebus coucang   Great views of one in a small village at Way Kambas.

Crab-eating Macaque (Long-tailed M)  Macaca fascicularis

Crab-eating Macaque (Simeulue M)  Macaca [fascicularis] fuscus   Endemic. Small numbers on Simeulue.

Southern Pig-tailed Macaque  Macaca nemestrina   Frequent along the Tapan Road.

Sumatran Surili (Mitred Leaf Monkey)  Presbytis melalophus   Endemic. Way Titias and Gunung Kerinci.

Thomas’s Langur  Presbytis thomasia   Endemic. Reasonable numbers seen well at Gunung Leuser.

Pig-tailed Langur  Simias concolor   Heard-only. Endemic. Unfortunately only heard on Sipora, with our local guide Mateus.

Silvered Leaf-monkey  Trachypithecus cristatus  Several troupes during our boat trip at Way Kambas.

Agile Gibbon  Hylobates agilis   Frequently heard, with one seen, at Way Titias.

Kloss Gibbon  Hylobates klossii   Heard-only. Endemic. Unfortunately only heard on Sipora.

Lar Gibbon  Hylobates lar   A couple seen at Gunung Leuser, where easily heard.

Siamang  Symphalangus syndactylus   Great sounds and great mammals! Many good looks, especially at Kerinci.

Mentawai Squirrel  Callosciurus melanogaster   Endemic. Five noted on Sipora.

Black-banded Squirrel (B-striped S)  Callosciurus nigrovittatus   One of the most widespread mammals of the trip.

Plantain Squirrel  Callosciurus notatus   Regular in non-forest, starting at Way Kambas.

Three-striped Ground Squirrel  Lariscus insignis   One at Way Titias.

Montane Three-striped Ground Squirrel  Lariscus niobe   Endemic. Common, and often inquisitive, at Gunung Kerinci.

Black Giant Squirrel  Ratufa bicolor   Singles noted at Way Titias and Gunung (palliata).

Slender Squirrel  Sundasciurus tenuis   A few at Way Titias.

Slender Squirrel (Sumatran Mountain S)  Sundasciurus [tenuis] altitudinis   Endemic. The common small squirrel at Kerinci.



Common Water Monitor  Varanus salvator   Simeulue at least.

Black-barbed Flying Dragon  Draco melanopogon   Way Titias etc.

Sumatran Flying Dragon  Draco sumatranus   Simeulue at least.

Grey Bronzeback  Dendrelaphis caudolineatus   Sipora. Eating a small gecko.

Painted Bronzeback  Dendrelaphis pictus   Way Kambas NP.



Common Birdwing  Troides helena   Widespread.

Lime Swallowtail  Papilio demoleus   Way Kambas etc.

Great Mormon  Papilio memnon   Way Kambas.

Black-and-white Helen  Papilio nephelus   Way Kambas.

Emerald Peacock  Papilio palinurus   Way Kambas.

Blue Glassy Tiger  Ideopsis vulgaris   Way Kambas etc.

Yellow Glassy Tiger  Parantica aspasia   Widespread.

Psyche  Leptosia nina   Widespread.

Striped Albatross  Appias libythea   Way Kambas NP.

Branded Imperial  Eooxylides tharis   Sipora.

Azure Royal  Britomartis cleoboides   Tapan Road.

Straight Pierrot  Caleta roxus   Simeulue.

Common Pierrot  Castalius rosimon   Way Kambas NP.

Common Cerulean  Jamides celeno   Way Kambas.

Tawny Coster  Acraea terpsicore   Way Kambas NP.

Himalayan Jester  Symbrenthia hypselis   Tapan Road.

Peacock Pansy  Junonia almana   Widespread.

Grey Pansy  Junonia atlites   Widespread.

Brown Pansy  Junonia hedonia   Way Kambas.

Blue Pansy  Junonia orithya   Way Kambas etc.

Common Evening Brown  Melanitis leda   Way Kambas.

Black Prince  Rohana parisatis   Tapan Road.

Common Maplet  Chersonesia risa   Tapan Road.

Commander  Moduza procris   Way Kambas.

Black-tipped Archduke  Lexias dirtea   Way Titias.

Tawny Palmfly  Elymnias panthera   Sipora.

Striped Ringlet  Ragadia makuta   Tapan Road.

‘Sumatran bordered’ Bushbrown  Mydosama marginata   Tapan Road.

Common Three-ring  Ypthima pandocus   Tapan Road.

Yellow-vein Lancer  Pyroneura latoia   Simeulue.



‘Sumatran’ Gem  Libellago sumatrana   Stream crossing, Sipora.

Blue Bush Dart  Copera vittata   Sipora.

Damselfly  Coeliccia membranipes   Tapan Road.

Common Flangetail  Ictinogomphus decoratus   Way Kambas NP.

Crimson Dropwing  Trithemis aurora   Sipora.

Common Parasol  Neurothemis fluctuans  Sipora.

Asian Sapphire Flutterer  Rhyothemis triangularis   Sipora.

Yellow-striped Flutterer  Rhyothemis phyllis   Sipora.

Dark-tipped Forest Skimmer  Cratilla metallica   Sipora.

Oriental Blue Dasher  Brachydiplax chalybea   Sipora.

Pond Adjutant  Aethriamanta gracilis   Sipora.

Grizzled Pintail  Acisoma panorpoides   Sipora.