9 / 14 July - 30 July / 6 August 2022
by Craig Robson
Sumatra is one of the most endemic-rich islands in Asia and the World as a whole – a destination high on the priority list of many birders. This was the first Birdquest tour there since the pandemic, and also one of our most successful ever, a remarkable achievement when considering what we have all just been through over the last few years. Although Sumatra has a reputation for being a ‘difficult’ birding destination, we recorded almost all of the endemics and near-endemics, with just a handful of misses, thanks to our network of excellent local guides and remarkably smooth-running logistics.
Some of the mouth-watering highlights amongst the 316 species recorded in 2022 included: Red-billed and Sumatran Partridges, Bronze-tailed Peacock- and Salvadori’s Pheasants, Salvadori’s Nightjar, Large, Sumatran and Sunda Frogmouths, ‘Mentawai’ Malkoha, Silvery Pigeon, Barusan Cuckoo-Dove, ‘Barusan’ and Sumatran Green Pigeons, Milky Stork, ‘Mentawai’ and ‘Simeulue’ Serpent Eagles, Sunda Owlet, Simeulue, Mentawai, and Rajah Scops Owls, Barred Eagle-Owl, ‘Sunda’ Wood Owl, Sumatran Trogon, ‘Simeulue’ and Sumatran Woodpeckers, Simeulue Parrot, Schneider’s, Malayan Banded and Graceful Pittas, Sumatran, ‘Mentawai’, ‘Mentawai Ashy’ and ‘Simeulue Ashy’ Drongos, Sumatran Treepie, Spot-necked, Cream-striped, Sumatran, ‘Barusan’, Aceh and Orange-spotted Bulbuls, Sangkar White-eye, Marbled and Rusty-breasted Wren-Babblers, Sumatran Babbler, Sumatran Laughingthrush, Sumatran Cochoa, Rufous-vented Niltava, ’Sumatran’ Shortwing, Sumatran Blue Robin, Shiny and Brown-winged Whistling Thrushes, Sumatran and Blue-masked Leafbirds, and ‘Sumatran’ Flowerpecker.
There were three parts to the tour in 2022: The Sumatran Ground Cuckoo Pre-Tour Extension, the Main Tour, and the Northern Sumatra Post-Tour Extension. The pre-tour extension began at Lampung Airport in south Sumatra, where the group gathered together before we headed off to the Way Titias area of Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park, in the south-west Sumatran uplands.
Sumatran Ground Cuckoo was obviously our primary target at Way Titias, and we had three days to try and find one. Being the first birding group to visit the area post-Covid was always going to be a bit of an issue, and a new camp had been set-up at the base of the hills, after the demise of the old camp. This did not stop us exploring far-afield however, as we searched high and low, up and over a series of heavily forested ridges with experienced local guide Kamel. Despite generally fine conditions, and a lot of focused effort, there was not a ‘peep’ from the ground cuckoo. It was a blow for sure, but it didn’t stop us from enjoying the many other good birds at this remote site. We logged over 100 species, and saw Ferruginous and Sumatran Partridges, Salvadori’s Pheasant, Sumatran Trogon, Graceful Pitta, Green Broadbill, Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Malayan Black Magpie, Cream-striped and Ruby-throated Bulbuls, Sangkar White-eye, Sunda Scimitar Babbler, Marbled and Eyebrowed Wren-Babblers, Spot-necked and Sumatran Babblers, Blue Nuthatch, Rufous-browed, White-tailed and Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatchers, Sunda and Chestnut-naped Forktails, and Brown-winged Whistling Thrush to name but a few. We kicked-off the mammal list with the superb Siamang, Agile Gibbon, and Sumatran Surili (Mitred Leaf Monkey).
We returned to Lampung, and then flew to Padang in west Sumatra via Jakarta (the easiest route!), where the main tour began on arrival, with a transfer to a nearby hotel.
The following morning, we were heading across the ocean by fast ferry to the island of Sipora in the Mentawai Islands. Based at a comfortable guest house in Tua Pejat, we teamed-up with local guides and explored accessible remaining forest to the south, over two full days. Sipora proved to be very birdy, and we found all of the endemics and regional endemics without any difficulty: Barusan Cuckoo-Dove, ‘Barusan’ Green Pigeon, ‘Mentawai’ Malkoha, ‘Mentawai’ Serpent Eagle, Mentawai Scops Owl, ‘Mentawai’ and ‘Mentawai Ashy’ Drongos, and ‘Barusan’ Bulbul. We also had our best views of Sunda Frogmouth here, and a pair of Hill Mynas were noteworthy. Kloss Gibbon and Pig-tailed Langur were tantalizing heard-only endemics – we had to make do with a Golden-bellied Treeshrew and several Mentawai Squirrels!
Back on the mainland we met Dwi and his team, who escorted us down to Gunung Kerinci after another night at the hotel in Padang. One of the most famous birding destinations in Indonesia, Kerinci has some of the most sought-after endemics, and we were looking forward to getting straight into the forest after the fairly long drive there, as well as being fuelled with anticipation for the three full days we had at our disposal. Birding the trail up the mountain has received a fair amount of bad press in the past. Maybe we were fortunate with the weather this year, but the conditions really didn’t seem that difficult and the birds largely showed themselves readily. Top of the list were Schneider’s Pitta, Sumatran Cochoa, and Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant, and we had great views of all three. We also all enjoyed good looks at Red-billed Partridge, Sumatran Green Pigeon, Salvadori’s Nightjar, day-roosting Sumatran Frogmouth and vandewateri Mountain Scops Owl, Sunda Owlet, Barred Eagle- and ‘Sunda’ Wood Owls, Sumatran Trogon, Black-browed Barbet, Sunda Minivet, Sunda Warbler, Black-capped White-eye, Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler, Spot-necked Babbler, Blue Nuthatch, Indigo and Pygmy Flycatchers, Rufous-vented Niltava, Sumatran Blue Robin, ‘Sumatran’ Shortwing, Shiny and Brown-winged Whistling Thrushes, and ‘Sumatran’ Flowerpecker; while Salvadori’s Pheasant was seen again.
From Kerinci we moved south again and spent three days exploring the Tapan Road. Excellent forest is still to be found along the road for many, many kilometres, and the birding was very worthwhile, though unscrupulous bird-trappers have had an impact on certain species like laughingthrushes and leafbirds. The highlights this year included Rhinoceros and Bushy-crested Hornbills, Sumatran and Orange-breasted Trogons, Graceful Pitta, Sumatran Treepie, Black-and-crimson Oriole, Grey-bellied, Scaly-breasted, Cream-striped, Spot-necked, Orange-spotted, Cinereous and Sumatran Bulbuls, Sangkar White-eye, Sunda Forktail, and the smart Blue-masked Leafbird. Another Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant was seen.
From the Tapan Road we had a fairly long drive to Padang Airport and then took a flight to Jakarta, where we overnighted. Flying back to Lampung the following morning, we continued by road to Way Kambas National Park. The national park has unfortunately still not re-opened since the pandemic, so all of our birding had to be done around the accessible edge of the reserve and included a boat trip along the riverine north-western boundary of the park. Despite the upset of not being allowed inside this unique reserve, we still managed to find some very good birds, with Little Green Pigeon, Large Frogmouth, Diard’s Trogon, Black-bellied Malkoha, Red-legged Crake, Banded and Cerulean Kingfishers, Sunda Scops, Barred Eagle-, and Buffy Fish Owls, Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagles, two unexpected Milky Storks, Lesser Adjutant, Black-thighed Falconet, Banded Woodpecker, Red-crowned Barbet, Malayan Banded and Hooded Pittas, Sumatran Babbler, Malaysian Blue Flycatcher, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker, and Thick-billed Spiderhunter amongst the highlights.
From Way Kambas we backtracked to Lampung Airport, where the Main Tour ended, before flying to Medan via Jakarta, where we overnighted at a very comfortable hotel downtown. The next morning, we were back at Medan Airport for the Northern Sumatra Post-Tour Extension, which began with us catching a flight to Meulaboh on the north-west coast of Sumatra, in Aceh Province. We met our local guide Agus and checked-in to our comfortable hotel.
With Agus at the helm, we had an afternoon session and but two full days to try and secure all of the specialty birds of the area, as we explored a road which traverses the forested mountains of Gunung Leuser National Park. Our first day was a good one, with Aceh Bulbul, our first looks at the tricky Sumatran Laughingthrush, a superb Sumatran Woodpecker and the now rare and localized Sumatran Leafbird all in the bag. Roll’s Partridge and ‘Sumatran’ Mesia had narrowly avoided being seen and were heard-only’s, so we were looking forward to our second full day. The second day started very well, with superb close-up views of a Rajah Scops Owl predawn. Unfortunately, however, things then got much, much worse. It began to rain, the rain got heavier, and it did not stop for the entire day. Finding birds was impossible, and our birding in Aceh was quickly terminated. Other good birds before the rain got us were Sumatran and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, Red-bearded Bee-eater, Sumatran Trogon, Dusky Broadbill, Common Green Magpie, Sumatran Treepie, Long-tailed Sibia, Sunda, Chestnut-capped and Black Laughingthrushes, Rufous-vented Niltava, and Blue-masked Leafbird. Mammals included Thomas’s Langur and Lar Gibbon.
We flew back to Medan for another overnight stay, before embarking on the final leg of our tour by flying to Simeulue, at the northern end of the west Sumatran (Barusan) Islands chain. Our base this time was a small surf camp, and our host ferried us around a number of forested locations in the south and east of the island, where we soon succeeded in locating all of the endemics. Great views were had of Silvery Pigeon, the diminutive but rather angry Simeulue Scops Owl, ‘Simeulue’ Serpent Eagle, Simeulue Parrot, ‘Simeulue’ Woodpecker, and ‘Simeulue’ Ashy Drongo. Barusan Cuckoo-Dove, Great Eared Nightjar, Rufous-backed (or Oriental Dwarf) Kingfisher, Fiery Minivet, and Mangrove Whistler were also seen.
Our Sumatran birding adventure drew to a close, as we returned by air to Medan, and onwards to Jakarta for our international flight connections.
SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED
Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Small numbers at Way Kambas.
Ferruginous Partridge ◊ Caloperdix oculeus One briefly and several heard at Way Titias (ocellatus).
Red-billed Partridge ◊ Arborophila rubrirostris Endemic. Two seen quite well at Gunung Kerinci; others heard.
Roll’s Partridge ◊ Arborophila rubrirostris Endemic. Heard only. Lost our chance to heavy rain at Gunung Leuser.
Sumatran Partridge ◊ Arborophila sumatrana Endemic. Four seen at Way Titias, and others heard.
Salvadori’s Pheasant ◊ Lophura inornata Endemic. Males at Way Titias & G. Kerinci. Bernard flushed one at G. Leuser.
Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant ◊ Polyplectron chalcurum Endemic. Male at G. Kerinci & one briefly Tapan Rd.
Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus bankiva
Malaysian Eared Nightjar ◊ Lyncornis temminckii Heard only. Way Titias campsite and Way Kambas.
Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis Two heard and seen on Simeulue (jacobsoni).
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus bimaculatus
Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis affinis
Salvadori’s Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus pulchellus Great views perched at Gunung Kerinci.
Large Frogmouth ◊ Batrachostomus auritus Brilliant views of one at Way Kambas NP.
Sumatran Frogmouth ◊ Batrachostomus poliolophus Endemic. Fantastic day-roosting bird at Kerinci.
Sunda Frogmouth ◊ Batrachostomus cornutus 1 seen Sipora; 1 fleetingly Way Titias; heard Way Kambas (nominate).
Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis Two forms seen: widespread harterti, and perlonga on Simeulue.
Whiskered Treeswift Hemiprocne comata Several lower down along the Tapan Road.
Plume-toed Swiftlet Collocalia affinis Common. Mostly cyanoptila, but oberholseri on Sipora.
Edible Nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus vestitus
Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis bubutus
Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis javanensis
Raffles’s Malkoha Rhinortha chlorophaea A few at Way Kambas.; heard at Way Titias.
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris Two at Way Kambas (singularis).
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha ◊ (Mentawai M) Phaenicophaeus [curvirostris] oeneicaudus Endemic. Flocks of 5 & 6 Sipora.
Black-bellied Malkoha Phaenicophaeus diardi A few seen at Way Kambas (nominate).
Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis tristis
Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus Widespread. Seen Tapan Rd and Simeulue (nominate).
Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii fasciolatus
Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus threnodes
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis sepulcralis
Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris brachyurus
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) (introduced) Columba livia
Silvery Pigeon ◊ Columba argentina Endemic. Three seen at two sites. Nice views of this rare Columbid.
Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis tigrina
Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall unchall
Barusan Cuckoo-Dove ◊ Macropygia modiglianii Endemic. Easily seen Sipora (elassa) and Simeulue (hypopercna).
Little Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia ruficeps sumatrana
Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica indica
Zebra Dove Geopelia striata striata
Little Green Pigeon ◊ Treron olax A few seen nicely at Way Kambas.
Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans A few at Way Kambas and a pair seen well.
Thick-billed Green Pigeon ◊ (Barusan G P) T. [c.] hypothapsinus Endemic. 15-20 Sipora (smicrus), 2 Simeulue (haliplous).
Sumatran Green Pigeon ◊ Treron oxyurus Frequent good views Kerinci and Tapan Road; heard at G. Leuser.
Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenurus A pair at Gunung Leuser (etorques).
Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Common on Sipora and Simeulue (consobrina).
Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia badia
Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor Reasonable numbers on the islands but only occasional.
Red-legged Crake Rallina fasciata Heard at Way Kambas, with 1 spotlighted close-to; heard on Sipora & Simeulue.
White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinereus Ricefields and marshes at Way Kambas.
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus phoenicurus
Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator Several seen Way Titias and Way Kambas (nominate).
Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis A booming female at Way Kambas, with one or two others heard.
Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii One en route to Sipora
Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis Non-leader. Three en route to Sipora (nominate).
Little Tern Sternula albifrons One on Simeulue (sinensis).
Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus anaethetus One on the way back from Sipora
Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana Three en route to Sipora (nominate).
Common Tern Sterna hirundo Several en route to Sipora (longipennis).
Milky Stork ◊ Mycteria cinerea Two along the boundary of Way Kambas NP were a big surprise.
Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus 15 at Way Kambas.
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster Non-leader. One was seen during the return boat trip from Sipora (plotus).
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster One at Way Kambas NP.
Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Striated Heron Butorides striata javanica
Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa
Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea jouyi Non-leader.
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea manilensis
Great Egret Ardea alba modesta
Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia intermedia
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Pacific Reef Heron Egretta sacra Non-leader. Sharp-eyed Bernard reported a dark morph bird on Simeulue (nominate).
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus hypoleucus
Crested Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus torquatus
Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela One seen at Way Titias; heard at Kerinci (batu).
Crested Serpent Eagle ◊ (Mentawai S E) Spilornis [cheela] sipora Easily seen, with four noted.
Crested Serpent Eagle ◊ (Simeulue S E) Spilornis [cheela] abbotti One seen very well and another heard.
Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus limnaeetus
Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus alboniger
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis malaiensis
Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus intermedius
White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster
Lesser Fish Eagle Haliaeetus humilis Excellent views along the river at Way Kambas (nominate).
Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus Along the NW boundary river at Way Kambas NP.
Oriental Bay Owl ◊ Phodilus badius Heard only. One at Way Kambas (nominate).
Brown Boobook Ninox scutulata One spotlighted from the boat at Way Kambas (nominate).
Sunda Owlet ◊ Taenioptynx sylvaticus Two seen well at Gunung Kerinci; heard in the north.
Reddish Scops Owl ◊ Otus rufescens Heard-only. Out of reach at Way Kambas (nominate).
Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus A fantastic day-roosting bird at Kerinci (vandewateri).
Simeulue Scops Owl ◊ Otus umbra Endemic. One seen and another heard on Simeulue.
Mentawai Scops Owl ◊ Otus mentawi Endemic. Three seen and five heard on Sipora.
Rajah Scops Owl ◊ Otus brookii Endemic. Brilliant views of one at a nest hole at Gunung Kerinci. Superb! (solokensis).
Sunda Scops Owl Otus lempiji One at day roost and two seen at night at Way Kambas (nominate).
Barred Eagle-Owl ◊ Bubo sumatranus Seen in daylight at Gunung Kerinci and at night at Way Kambas (nominate).
Buffy Fish Owl ◊ Ketupa ketupu Great views of one at Way Kambas during our boat trip (nominate).
Brown Wood Owl ◊ (Sunda W O) Strix leptogrammica Dwi found us one at Kerinci (myrtha).
Sumatran Trogon ◊ Apalharpactes mackloti Endemic. Widespread in montane areas, with over 20 individuals logged.
Diard’s Trogon Harpactes diardii A pair showed well at Way Kambas (nominate).
Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios Seen at Way Titias and the Tapan Road (uniformis).
Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus Several along the Tapan Road (flagrans).
White-crowned Hornbill ◊ Berenicornis comatus Heard-only. A couple of time at Way Titias, but just too distant.
Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros Three seen along Tapan Rd; heard at Way Titias (nominate).
Helmeted Hornbill ◊ Rhinoplax vigil Heard-only. Once at Way Titias.
Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris convexus
Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus
Wreathed Hornbill Rhyticeros undulatus
Oriental Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis orientalis
Rufous-collared Kingfisher ◊ Actenoides concretus Heard-only. Sipora, Tapan Road, and Way Kambas NP (nominate).
Banded Kingfisher Lacedo pulchella Roosting male seen Way Kambas; others heard there and Way Titias (nominate).
Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis A few seen Way Kambas (cyanopteryx), and also Simeulue (simalurensis).
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Occasional (perpulchra).
Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris Two forms: laubmannianus on the mainland and chloropterus on the islands.
Cerulean Kingfisher ◊ (Small Blue K) Alcedo coerulescens This little gem was best seen at Way Kambas NP.
Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting meninting
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher (Rufous-backed K) Ceyx [erithaca] rufidorsa Two seen on Simeulue motleyi).
Red-bearded Bee-Eater Nyctyornis amictus A couple en route from Way Titias, and another at Gunung Leuser
Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis
Fire-tufted Barbet ◊ Psilopogon pyrolophus A few seen at Gunung Kerinci, and common along the Tapan Road.
Golden-whiskered Barbet Psilopogon chrysopogon Often heard. Excavating a nest-hole along the Tapan Rd (nominate).
Red-crowned Barbet ◊ Psilopogon rafflesii One seen and several heard Way Kambas. Extreme lowland forest specialist.
Red-throated Barbet Psilopogon mystacophanos mystacophanos
Black-browed Barbet ◊ Psilopogon oorti Common in the uplands.
Blue-eared Barbet Psilopogon duvaucelii
Sooty Barbet ◊ Caloramphus hayii
Grey-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus sordidus
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Yungipicus canicapillus volzi
Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker Yungipicus moluccensis moluccensis
White-bellied Woodpecker ◊ (Simeulue W) Dryocopus [javensis] parvus Endemic. Nine logged on Simeulue.
Banded Woodpecker ◊ Chrysophlegma miniaceum Great views of a pair at Way Kambas (malaccense).
Greater Yellownape Chrysophlegma flavinucha Widespread: korinchi from G. Kerinci southwards, mystacale in north.
Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus One at Gunung Leuser (vanheysti).
Crimson-winged Woodpecker Picus puniceus Two at Way Kambas (observandus).
Sumatran Woodpecker ◊ Picus dedemi Endemic. Superb male seen well at Gunung Leuser.
Maroon Woodpecker Blythipicus rubiginosus
Orange-backed Woodpecker Reinwardtipicus validus xanthopygius
Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus badius
Buff-rumped Woodpecker Meiglyptes tristis grammithorax
Buff-necked Woodpecker Meiglyptes tukki tukki
Black-thighed Falconet Microhierax fringillarius Nice pair at Way Kambas.
Blue-rumped Parrot Psittinus cyanurus Frequent on Sipora, two at Way Kambas (nominate).
Simeulue Parrot ◊ Psittinus abbotti Endemic. 16 logged on Simeulue, and seen very well.
Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri Just two on Simeulue (cala).
Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot Loriculus galgulus
Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae Seen well along the Tapan Road (psittacinus).
Dusky Broadbill Corydon sumatranus Two at Gunung Leuser (nominate).
Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos macrorhynchos
Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus harterti
Black-and-yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus
Green Broadbill Calyptomena viridis Several of these crackers seen at Way Titias (gloriosa).
Schneider’s Pitta ◊ Hydrornis schneideri Endemic. A tame pair and a juvenile seen very well at Gunung Kerinci.
Malayan Banded Pitta ◊ Hydrornis irena Two males seen and several birds heard at Way Kambas.
Graceful Pitta ◊ Erythropitta venusta Endemic. Excellent views at Way Titias and along the Tapan Rd.
Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida Two seen and several heard at Way Kambas NP (mulleri).
Golden-bellied Gerygone (Flyeater) Gerygone sulphurea sulphurea
Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus picatus intermedius
Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus
Maroon-breasted Philentoma Philentoma velata Common at Way Titias (coesia).
White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus amydrus
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia horizoptera
Green Iora Aegithina viridissima viridissima
Fiery Minivet Pericrocotus igneus At least one was identified on Simeulue (trophis).
Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris Widespread in the uplands (montanus).
Sunda Minivet ◊ Pericrocotus miniatus Frequent along the Tapan Road.
Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus xanthogaster
Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike (Roving C) Coracina [striata] sumatrensis 4 Sipora (sumatrensis), 3 Simeulue (simalurensis).
Sunda Cuckooshrike ◊ Coracina larvata Several seen Tapan Road and Gunung Leuser (melanocephala).
Pied Triller Lalage nigra Quite common at Way Kambas (striga).
Lesser Cuckooshrike Coracina fimbriata One seen Way Titias (schierbrandi); not uncommon Simeulue (compta).
Mangrove Whistler Pachycephala cinerea cinerea
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach bentet
Blyth’s Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus Widespread in the uplands (cameranoi).
Black-and-crimson Oriole ◊ Oriolus cruentus As the previous species (consanguineus).
Dark-throated Oriole Oriolus xanthonotus Heard at Way Titias (nominate), and four on Sipora (mentawi).
Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis Seen on Sipora (sipora), at Way Kambas (maculatus), and on Simeulue (mundus).
Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus malayensis
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer remifer
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus platurus
Sumatran Drongo ◊ Dicrurus sumatranus Endemic. Small numbers Tapan Road, then common Gunung Leuser.
Hair-crested Drongo ◊ (Mentawai D) Dicrurus [hottentottus] viridinitens Endemic. Common enough on Sipora.
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus Southern/central uplands (phaedrus), and northern uplands (batakensis).
Ashy Drongo ◊ (Mentawai A D) Dicrurus [leucophaeus] periophthalmicus Endemic. Not uncommon on Sipora.
Ashy Drongo ◊ (Simeulue A D) Dicrurus [leucophaeus] celaenus Endemic. Small numbers on Simeulue.
White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis atrata
Malaysian Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica longicauda
Spotted Fantail Rhipidura perlata Quite common at Way Titias.
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea We saw prophata on Sipora, and consobrina on Simeulue.
Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone affinis affinis
Crested Jayshrike Platylophus galericulatus coronatus Heard-only. Way Titias.
Malayan Black Magpie Platysmurus leucopterus A few at Way Titias.
Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis Singles at Tapan Road and Gunung Leuser (minor).
Sumatran Treepie ◊ Dendrocitta occipitalis Endemic. Common Tapan Road and G. Leuser, with many great views.
Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca compilator
Rail-babbler ◊ Eupetes macrocerus Heard-only. Once at Way Titias, too distantly.
Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis antioxantha
Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus ambiguus
Hairy-backed Bulbul Tricholestes criniger sericeus
Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus Frequent in upland areas (sumatranus).
Spot-necked Bulbul ◊ Alcurus tympanistrigus Endemic. Common along the Tapan Road, with over 30 logged.
Buff-vented Bulbul Iole crypta Frequent at Way Titias; heard at Tapan Road (nominate).
Cream-striped Bulbul ◊ Hemixos leucogrammicus Endemic. Common along Tapan Rd (30+). Also at Way Titias.
Cinereous Bulbul ◊ Hemixos cinereus A few seen well lower down on the Tapan Road (nominate).
Sumatran Bulbul ◊ Ixos sumatranus Endemic. Just a couple along the Tapan Rd, then frequent at Gunung Leuser.
Streaked Bulbul Ixos malaccensis
Black-headed Bulbul Brachypodius melanocephalos Widespread: melanocephalos on mainland, hyperemnus Simeulue.
Grey-bellied Bulbul Ixodia cyaniventris Small numbers along the Tapan Road (nominate).
Scaly-breasted Bulbul Ixodia squamata As the previous species (webberi).
Ruby-throated Bulbul ◊ Rubigula dispar Great views of several smart individuals at Way Titias.
Cream-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus simplex simplex
Olive-winged Bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus A few seen well at Way Kambas (nominate).
Olive-winged Bulbul ◊ (Barusan B) Pycnonotus [plumosus] porphyreus Endemic. Common on Sipora.
Asian Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus brunneus
Aceh Bulbul ◊ Pycnonotus snouckaerti Endemic. We worked hard to get good scope views of a pair at Gunung Leuser.
Orange-spotted Bulbul ◊ Pycnonotus bimaculatus Pair seen twice at Tapan Road (nominate).
Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier analis
Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster aurigaster
Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica javanica
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Pygmy Cupwing Pnoepyga pusilla Regular in the higher uplands (lepida).
Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris papilio
Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus cucullatus
Sunda Bush Warbler (Mountain B W) Horornis vulcanius Frequent at G. Kerinci (flaviventris), and G. Leuser (sepiarius).
Chestnut-crowned Warbler Phylloscopus castaniceps muelleri
Sunda Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus grammiceps sumatrensis
Mountain Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus flaviventris
Hill Prinia Prinia superciliaris Frequent along Tapan Road, and also at G. Leuser (dysancrita).
Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris rafflesi
Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis Heard-only. Way Titias (nominate).
Rufous-tailed Tailorbird Orthotomus sericeus hesperius
Ashy Tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps Common: widespread cineraceus, and concinnus on Sipora.
Black-capped White-Eye ◊ Zosterops atricapilla Higher uplands: nominate in centre/south, and viridicatus in north.
Warbling White-Eye Zosterops japonicus montanus
Sangkar White-Eye ◊ Zosterops melanurus Way Titias and Tapan Road at least (buxtoni).
Pin-striped Tit-Babbler Macronus gularis gularis
Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler Macronus ptilosus One at Way Titias (trichorrhos).
Golden Babbler Cyanoderma chrysaeum frigidum.
Chestnut-winged Babbler Cyanoderma erythropterum A pair at Way Kambas (pyrrhophaea).
Rufous-fronted Babbler Cyanoderma rufifrons Heard-only. Way Titias (poliogaster).
Black Laughingthrush ◊ Melanocichla lugubris Seen well at Gunung Leuser.
Sunda Scimitar Babbler ◊ Pomatorhinus bornensis Not uncommon at Way Titias (occidentalis).
Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps larvata
Spot-necked Babbler Stachyris strialata Frequent in central and southern uplands (nominate).
Marbled Wren-Babbler Turdinus marmoratus Seen very well at Way Titias, and others heard (nominate).
Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum cinereum
Malayan Black-capped Babbler Pellorneum nigrocapitatum Small numbers at Way Titias and Way Kambas.
Short-tailed Babbler Malacocincla malaccensis Two at Way Titias (nominate).
Sumatran Babbler ◊ (Buettikofer’s B) Pellorneum buettikoferi Endemic. Fairly common Way Titias and Way Kambas.
Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti A few singing at Way Kambas; a surprising write-in (olivacea).
Horsfield’s Babbler Malacocincla sepiaria barussana
Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler ◊ Gypsophila rufipectus Endemic. Common at Gunung Kerinci.
Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler Napothera epilepidota Great views at Way Titias, and others heard (diluta).
Sumatran Wren-Babbler ◊ Napothera albostriata Heard-only. Endemic. At least 3 at G. Kerinci but elusive.
Brown Fulvetta Alcippe brunneicauda brunneicauda
Long-tailed Sibia Heterophasia picaoides Small number at Gunung Leuser (simillima).
Silver-eared Mesia ◊ (Sumatran M) Leiothrix [argentauris] rookmakeri Heard-only. Endemic. Heard once but slipped away.
Sunda Laughingthrush ◊ (Grey-and-brown L) Garrulax palliatus Good sightings at Gunung Leuser (nominate).
Sumatran Laughingthrush ◊ Garrulax bicolor Endemic. Three at Gunung Leuser, and others heard. Very shy.
Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush ◊ Pterorhinus mitratus Common at Gunung Leuser (nominate).
Asian Fairy-Bluebird Irena puella crinigera
Blue Nuthatch ◊ Sitta azurea Widespread in the uplands (expectata).
Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis On the mainland and Sipora we saw strigata, on Simeulue altirostris.
Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa Heard Way Titias, 3 Way Kambas (nominate). Pair of non-leader batuensis Sipora.
Javan Myna (introduced) Acridotheres javanicus
Sumatran Cochoa ◊ Cochoa beccarii Endemic. Prolonged views of a male in the usual area at Gunung Kerinci.
Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis musicus
White-tailed Flycatcher Cyornis concretus Small numbers seen at Way Titias (nominate).
Rufous-browed Flycatcher Anthipes solitaris solitaris
Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor Heard-only. Way Titias (harterti).
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis turcosus Excellent views of a pairs at Way Kambas (rupatensis).
Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis olivaceus Seen well at Way Titias and Tapan Road (nominate).
Rufous-vented Niltava ◊ (Sumatran N) Niltava sumatrana A pair at Gunung Kerinci and a female at Gunung Leuser.
Large Niltava Niltava grandis A few in the mountains (decipiens).
Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus thalassoides
Indigo Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias indigo Frequently recorded in the uplands throughout (ruficrissa).
Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophris Common and often confiding at Gunung Kerinci (nominate).
White-browed Shortwing ◊ (Sumatran S) B. [montana] saturata Endemic. Many heard, 1 seen G. Kerinci; heard G. Leuser.
Sumatran Blue Robin ◊ Myiomela sumatrana Endemic. Elusive, but a nice male seen well at Gunung Kerinci.
Sunda Forktail ◊ (Lesser F) Enicurus velatus Small numbers Way Titias and Tapan Road (sumatranus).
Chestnut-naped Forktail ◊ Enicurus ruficapillus Brilliant views of a smart individual by the camp at Way Titias.
Shiny Whistling Thrush ◊ Myophonus melanurus Endemic. Fairly common with small numbers daily at Gunung Kerinci.
Brown-winged Whistling Thrush ◊ (Sumatran W T) Myophonus castaneus Endemic. Widespread in uplands in small nos.
Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus Several along the Tapan Rd (dichrorhynchus).
Pygmy Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsoni A male seen well at Gunung Kerinci, and another heard (sumatrana).
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni westermanni
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra Common and confiding G. Kerinci; heard G. Leuser (sumatrana).
Lesser Green Leafbird Chloropsis cyanopogon A pair along the Tapan Rd.
Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis moluccensis A small group along the Tapan Rd (moluccensis).
Sumatran Leafbird ◊ Chloropsis media Endemic. Greatly impacted by trapping. A nice male at Gunung Leuser.
Blue-masked Leafbird ◊ Chloropsis venusta Endemic. A pair at the Tapan Road, and four at Gunung Leuser.
Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker Prionochilus percussus Three at Way Titias (ignicapilla).
Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile At least one along the Tapan Road (atjehense).
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma On mainland and Sipora (trigonostigma); Simeulue (antioproctum).
Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum minullum Several en route to Way Titias (borneanum).
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker ◊ (Sumatran F) D. [ignipectus] beccarii Endemic. A few G. Kerinci, Tapan Rd, G. Leuser.
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum Small numbers on Sipora and Simeulue (sumatranum).
Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum trochileum Three seen well at Way Kambas.
Plain Sunbird Anthreptes simplex
Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis malacensis
Van Hasselt’s Sunbird Leptocoma brasiliana brasiliana
Olive-backed Sunbird (Ornate S) Cinnyris [jugularis] ornatus
Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja siparaja
Temminck’s Sunbird Aethopyga temminckii Common in the uplands.
Purple-naped Sunbird Kurochkinegramma hypogrammicum hypogrammicum
Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra cinereicollis
Thick-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera crassirostris One in the lodge garden at Way Kambas.
Spectacled Spiderhunter Arachnothera flavigaster A few in the lowlands.
Yellow-eared Spiderhunter Arachnothera chrysogenys One on Sipora (nominate).
Grey-breasted Spiderhunter Arachnothera modesta concolor
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus malaccensis
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata fretensis
White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata subsquamicollis
Javan Munia Lonchura leucogastroides Non-leader.
White-headed Munia Lonchura maja Widespread sightings of good numbers.
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea
Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus malayensis
Southern Red Muntjac (Red M, Common Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak Heard-only. At Way Kambas.
Common Minke Whale Balaenoptera acutorostrata Non-leader. One was seen on the way back from Sipora.
Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris Many seen on the way back from Sipora.
Large Flying-fox Pteropus vampyrus Seen at a number of locations while traveling.
Golden-bellied Treeshrew Tupaia chrysogaster Endemic. One on Sipora; a Mentawai endemic.
Javan Treeshrew (Horsfield’s T) Tupaia horsfieldi Small numbers at Way Titias, Kerinci, and Tapan Rd.
Greater Slow Loris (Sunda S L) Nycticebus coucang Great views of one in a small village at Way Kambas.
Crab-eating Macaque (Long-tailed M) Macaca fascicularis
Crab-eating Macaque (Simeulue M) Macaca [fascicularis] fuscus Endemic. Small numbers on Simeulue.
Southern Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina Frequent along the Tapan Road.
Sumatran Surili (Mitred Leaf Monkey) Presbytis melalophus Endemic. Way Titias and Gunung Kerinci.
Thomas’s Langur Presbytis thomasia Endemic. Reasonable numbers seen well at Gunung Leuser.
Pig-tailed Langur Simias concolor Heard-only. Endemic. Unfortunately only heard on Sipora, with our local guide Mateus.
Silvered Leaf-monkey Trachypithecus cristatus Several troupes during our boat trip at Way Kambas.
Agile Gibbon Hylobates agilis Frequently heard, with one seen, at Way Titias.
Kloss Gibbon Hylobates klossii Heard-only. Endemic. Unfortunately only heard on Sipora.
Lar Gibbon Hylobates lar A couple seen at Gunung Leuser, where easily heard.
Siamang Symphalangus syndactylus Great sounds and great mammals! Many good looks, especially at Kerinci.
Mentawai Squirrel Callosciurus melanogaster Endemic. Five noted on Sipora.
Black-banded Squirrel (B-striped S) Callosciurus nigrovittatus One of the most widespread mammals of the trip.
Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus Regular in non-forest, starting at Way Kambas.
Three-striped Ground Squirrel Lariscus insignis One at Way Titias.
Montane Three-striped Ground Squirrel Lariscus niobe Endemic. Common, and often inquisitive, at Gunung Kerinci.
Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor Singles noted at Way Titias and Gunung (palliata).
Slender Squirrel Sundasciurus tenuis A few at Way Titias.
Slender Squirrel (Sumatran Mountain S) Sundasciurus [tenuis] altitudinis Endemic. The common small squirrel at Kerinci.
Common Water Monitor Varanus salvator Simeulue at least.
Black-barbed Flying Dragon Draco melanopogon Way Titias etc.
Sumatran Flying Dragon Draco sumatranus Simeulue at least.
Grey Bronzeback Dendrelaphis caudolineatus Sipora. Eating a small gecko.
Painted Bronzeback Dendrelaphis pictus Way Kambas NP.
Common Birdwing Troides helena Widespread.
Lime Swallowtail Papilio demoleus Way Kambas etc.
Great Mormon Papilio memnon Way Kambas.
Black-and-white Helen Papilio nephelus Way Kambas.
Emerald Peacock Papilio palinurus Way Kambas.
Blue Glassy Tiger Ideopsis vulgaris Way Kambas etc.
Yellow Glassy Tiger Parantica aspasia Widespread.
Psyche Leptosia nina Widespread.
Striped Albatross Appias libythea Way Kambas NP.
Branded Imperial Eooxylides tharis Sipora.
Azure Royal Britomartis cleoboides Tapan Road.
Straight Pierrot Caleta roxus Simeulue.
Common Pierrot Castalius rosimon Way Kambas NP.
Common Cerulean Jamides celeno Way Kambas.
Tawny Coster Acraea terpsicore Way Kambas NP.
Himalayan Jester Symbrenthia hypselis Tapan Road.
Peacock Pansy Junonia almana Widespread.
Grey Pansy Junonia atlites Widespread.
Brown Pansy Junonia hedonia Way Kambas.
Blue Pansy Junonia orithya Way Kambas etc.
Common Evening Brown Melanitis leda Way Kambas.
Black Prince Rohana parisatis Tapan Road.
Common Maplet Chersonesia risa Tapan Road.
Commander Moduza procris Way Kambas.
Black-tipped Archduke Lexias dirtea Way Titias.
Tawny Palmfly Elymnias panthera Sipora.
Striped Ringlet Ragadia makuta Tapan Road.
‘Sumatran bordered’ Bushbrown Mydosama marginata Tapan Road.
Common Three-ring Ypthima pandocus Tapan Road.
Yellow-vein Lancer Pyroneura latoia Simeulue.
‘Sumatran’ Gem Libellago sumatrana Stream crossing, Sipora.
Blue Bush Dart Copera vittata Sipora.
Damselfly Coeliccia membranipes Tapan Road.
Common Flangetail Ictinogomphus decoratus Way Kambas NP.
Crimson Dropwing Trithemis aurora Sipora.
Common Parasol Neurothemis fluctuans Sipora.
Asian Sapphire Flutterer Rhyothemis triangularis Sipora.
Yellow-striped Flutterer Rhyothemis phyllis Sipora.
Dark-tipped Forest Skimmer Cratilla metallica Sipora.
Oriental Blue Dasher Brachydiplax chalybea Sipora.
Pond Adjutant Aethriamanta gracilis Sipora.
Grizzled Pintail Acisoma panorpoides Sipora.