Welcome to Birdquest

PANAMA including Darien

The richest avifauna in Central America

Saturday 14th January - Saturday 4th February 2012
(22 days)

Part I: Central & Western Panama Saturday 14th January – Tuesday 24th January (11 days)

Part II: Darien Tuesday 24th January – Saturday 4th February (12 days)

Leader: Matt Denton

Group Size Limit: 8

Tour Category: Easy to Moderate for the most part (one fairly demanding hike up Cerro Pirre in Darien)

(Note: This is a summary of the tour. For more information please download the detailed itinerary. The button is at the top right of the page.)

The S-shaped isthmus of Panama, barely more than 50 miles across at its narrowest and no more than 130 miles at its widest, is one of the great crossroads of the world. In Spanish times it was the base for conquering expeditions northwards and southwards along the Pacific Coasts, and since the early days of the 20th century the impressive Panama canal has saved countless ships from having to make the long and hazardous voyage around Cape Horn.

What fewer people realize is that this narrow strip of land has played a key role as a faunal exchange route between the North and South American continents. The land that was to become southern Central America first emerged as a chain of volcanic islands some 50 million years ago, serving as faunal stepping stones for more mobile groups of creatures. Only within the last 3-4 million years a continuous land bridge was formed, allowing for even more life forms to pass between continents. Typical Neotropic bird families such as tinamous, jacamars, toucans, woodcreepers, antbirds, manakins and cotingas, began to move into Central America where today they diminish in numbers of species from south to north. Other groups including owls, swallows, wrens and thrushes, spread in the other direction and conquered South America. Meanwhile speciation in both areas continued unabated, and today Panama holds a diverse and fascinating mixture of Central and South American elements, in addition to a number of birds that are endemic or are only shared with adjacent Columbia, giving it the richest avifauna (an amazing 900 or so species occur in this small but bird-rich country) in Central America.

This remarkable itinerary makes for the most comprehensive tour of Panama available, producing more of the country’s many specialities than any other. Easy birding with good accommodation and roads in central and western Panama contrast with a wilderness experience in Darien.

The tour can either be taken as a whole or as either of two parts (Central & Western Panama or Darien).

We shall begin our journey through Panama by sampling the rich forests of the Canal Area. Here the overwhelming diversity of Pipeline Road will keep us busy for a long time. We are likely to amass a very large birdlist here, but amongst these the highlights are likely to include such colourful denizens of the forest as the stunning Blue Cotinga and the lethargic Green Shrike-Vireo, as well as antswarm professionals like Spotted, Bicoloured and Ocellated Antbirds, and restricted-range specialities such as Garden Emerald, Cinnamon Woodpecker, the awkward Southern Bentbill and Spectacled Antpitta.

Next we travel to western Panama where a visit to the David area will allow us to see a number of species endemic to western Panama and Costa Rica, including such mega-specialities as Veraguas Mango and Yellow-green Finch (two of Panama’s few true endemics), Chiriqui Yellowthroat and White-throated Mountain-gem.

After returning to Panama City we will explore a variety of habitats within easy reach of the city, where new birds should include the endemic Yellow-green Tyrannulet and the lovely Rosy Thrush-Tanager, and then head into the hills to the east of the Canal Zone, bound for Nusagandi. This area holds some great birds, including Black Antshrike, the very localized Speckled Antshrike, the near-endemic Sulphur-rumped Tanager and the enigmatic Broad-billed Sapayoa, a suboscine of uncertain affinities that may represent a distinct family.

The cool heights of Cerro Jefe and Cerro Azul support a totally different set of submontane birds, including such special birds as Violet-capped Hummingbird, Stripe-cheeked Woodpecker and Tacarcuna Bush-Tanager. By the time we return to Panama City we will have seen an extraordinary variety of birds, including many specialities.

The second part of this fantastic tour concentrates on remote Darien. One of the classic Neotropical wilderness birding destinations, for those who have experienced a visit to the Darien, it is surely one of their most cherished birding memories.

In 1513, Vasco Nunez de Balboa led an expedition on a 25-day trek through the jungle to the western coast of what later became know as Darien, proving that the land in this area was a narrow isthmus between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The Spaniards called the trail that developed after Balboa’s pioneering efforts El Camino Real (The Royal Road).

The remote mountain from which Balboa first sighted the Pacific Ocean lies deep within the vast wilderness of the superb Darien National Park, where the isolated mountain tops have witnessed the evolution of a number of endemic and little known birds in the cool cloud and elfin forests that cloak their slopes. Furthermore, an interesting range of primarily South American species ‘spill over’ into the park’s verdant lowland jungles, including Harpy Eagle, three species of colourful macaws and a host of smaller but equally captivating birds.

Forming a natural boundary between Central and South America, the vast wilderness of the Darien harbours some 60 species of Panamanian birds found nowhere else in the country, quite a few of which are endemic or are only shared with a tiny fraction of neighbouring Colombia.

Our journey begins in the coastal lowlands where a narrow tributary takes us to a remote yet hospitable native village. On the rocky slopes above the village stand large emergent Cuipo trees, ideal for nesting Harpy Eagles, whilst the surrounding forest holds good numbers of arboreal sloths that provide plentiful food for a growing Harpy. The handsome Black Oropendola, occurring only in Panama and neighbouring Colombia, is also to be found here. A recently developed ecotourism project with the Emberá nation allows us to visit a very traditional community and experience a remote and little-visited corner of the Darien.

This short but fascinating experience in the lowlands will be followed by a much more comprehensive exploration of the forests surrounding Cana and Cerro Pirre, which are renowned for their rich bird life. The park boasts a galaxy of species, several of which have been extirpated from most areas in the rest of the country but which are still common here, such as the awesome Crested Guan, the emerald Great Green Macaw and the gorgeous Red-throated Caracara, whose raucous and far-carrying calls seem unbelievable until heard for oneself. Of particular note are such sought-after Darien endemics and near-endemics as Russet-crowned Quail-Dove, Rufous-cheeked Hummingbird, Pirre Warbler, Green-naped Tanager, Pirre Bush-Tanager and Beautiful Treerunner. We will also be on the lookout for the extremely wary Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo, though we shall think ourselves lucky if we manage to see this reclusive forest floor dweller.

Birdquest has operated tours to Panama, including Darien, since 1998.

Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels in Gamboa, Panama City and David are of normal Birdquest standard. At Nusagandi we shall be staying at Burbayar Lodge, a simple but comfortable lodge where excellent food is served in a lovely, open-air dining room and where the chalets have private bathrooms. During the second part of the tour, at the Emberá village of Mogue we will stay for two nights in a simple but reasonably comfortable tented camp (with tents available for twin or single occupancy) set up by our local agents under the thatched-roof of a well-ventilated house on stilts (showers will be available). At Cana we shall be staying for five nights at a simple lodge with shared bathroom facilities and for two nights in a simple but reasonably comfortable tented camp (with tents available for twin or single occupancy) set up by our local agents on Cerro Pirre. Road transport is by small coach or minibus and 4x4 vehicles. Roads are mostly good but there are a few rough unsurfaced roads to traverse (and the road up Cerro Colorado is very rough).

Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy to moderate, but during the second part of the tour there is a long ascent to reach the camp on Cerro Pirre and some sections are steep (and slippery after rain).

Climate: At this season it should be mostly dry and often sunny. It can be quite hot and humid in the lowlands, whilst at higher elevations it can be quite cool, especially at night. There may be some rain.

Bird Photography: Opportunities are worthwhile.

Pricing

Pricing is available in £ | $

Tour Price: (provisional): Both parts: $6960 Panama City/Panama City. Part I only: $3320 Panama City/Panama City. Part II only: $3650 Panama City/Panama City. Price includes all transportation (including all flights inside Panama), all accommodations, all meals, bottled water, some drinks, all excursions, all entrance fees, all tips for local drivers/guides and for accommodations/restaurants, leader services.

Single Room/Tent Supplement: (provisional): Both parts: $1040. Part I only: $495. Part II only: $545.

Deposit: Both parts: $700. Part I only: $440. Part II only: $440. If booking more than 12 months before departure, the initial deposit is only $220.

Air Travel To & From The Tour: Our in-house IATA ticket agency can arrange your air travel in connection with the tour from a departure point anywhere in the world, or you may arrange your own air travel if you prefer. We can tailor-make your itinerary to your personal requirements, so if you would like to travel in advance of the tour (and spend a night in an hotel so you will feel fresh when the tour starts), or return later than the end of the tour, or make a side trip to some other destination, or travel business class rather than economy, we will be happy to assist. Please contact us about your air travel requirements.

Pricing is available in £ | $